Need 12Volt Terminals For Front Of Tractor

[jimainiac]

On my Kubota L3830, the battery is behind the headlights. To get to it you have to raise the hood. I'd like to put heavy duty 12 volt terminals on the outside, in front of the grill. It would make it much easier to jump-start the tractor, or to power a 12v transfer pump to fuel up. Maybe some kind of "bus-bar"?

 

[Fallon]

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

Genderless plugs, so there is no male or female end to get backwards. At least the power poles got popular in the HAM radio world for a good self cleaning quality connector for frequent disconnection.

Anderson Power Poles for anything under 45@ that doesn't need to be weatherproof.

Anderson SB plugs for any higher amperages. I had one mounted to the front of my old F350 for integrated jumper cables. I think I used a SB350. Used it for jumper cables & occasionally a portable winch.l

Mounted it to the truck in a Trailer Vision Surface Mount Enclosure and Cover for Anderson SB350 Series Connectors which also keeps some of the road shmoo off the plug.

Lots of bigger generators use stacked SB plugs to service over 50@.

 

[BlueKnife]

The Anderson connectors that @Fallon suggested are a great option. I have one wired into my pickup. Only downside to them is it requires jumper cables that are compatible with them. If you're in a situation where you're using someone else's cables, or just a "regular" set of cables, it won't work. If you want the option of using regular cables, you can use these. JUMPER TERMINAL, BATTERY

 

[Richard001]

This is what you want:

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb120-120amp?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8q--BhDiARIsAP9tKI2FW_zmyWFiBo7c8CPa_WOd9zkIjdQsPlHlSjkrwVSBahjsdmqWLpsaAuMBEALw_wcB

Used by a lot of racers to jump start there cars or charge the battery.

Richard

 

[Racer4]

Years ago I used the smaller Anderson connectors for my battery connections on rc cars. They worked great.

 

[jimainiac]

Thank you for your suggestions, all. The Battery Jumper Terminals that BlueKnife gave that link for are the type of connection I had in mind. The cover is especially important for the positive terminal. I can see mounting them in a convenient spot to hook cable clamps on.
Thanks again.

 

[LouNY]

I'd prefer the Anderson connectors, however for either I would install a continuous duty solenoid with a "remote" switch to make it hot when desired.

 

[chim]

Anderson type connectors work great for me. I don't have a pic of the tractor, but the Trailblazer has the same setup and also has a front-mounted receiver. Snapped the picture when I was preparing to pull another tree down last week. There's a pair of cables to the connector that store under the hood. The winch is on a portable carrier that slips into a 2" receiver.

I've had other winches permanently mounted on other trucks and SUV's in the past. I like this approach because it is not something frequently used. No point in having it out in the weather, and I'm not a "poser" who needs to have the unused winch, traction boards, hi-lift jack and Rotolok gas cans hanging all over my truck.

There's a separate 25' extension with connectors on each end and there's a shorter extension with a connector on one end and locking pliers on the other end. With this the winch can be used om the front or rear of the Trailblazer, and I can easily reach the battery of another vehicle while parked behind it.

It's all 2/0 welding cable and the locking pliers make a connection to another battery that's hard to beat. It would be easy to use the winch on any vehicle with a 2" receiver by using the locking pliers for the other battery's connection.

EDIT: Found tractor pic. See below.

 

[chim]

For lighter loads I have a "flat two" trailer connector that gets tucked into the tube of the loader frame alongside the light when not needed. It is the place the transfer pump gets power from.

 

[Rustyiron]

Thank you for your suggestions, all. The Battery Jumper Terminals that BlueKnife gave that link for are the type of connection I had in mind. The cover is especially important for the positive terminal. I can see mounting them in a convenient spot to hook cable clamps on.
Thanks again.

This (blue Knife link) is what came on my skid steer, it functions just like your battery posts. The Anderson type connector is fantastic for hi draw accessories like a winch, but as you stated just getting to the battery is inconvenient to get to for "jumping" or something like a 12v sprayer with simple clamps.
I use mine to power a fuel pump on a 100g tank that I carry on the forks to the excavator for refueling.
You could probably get away only a 12v + post and ground to the frame if you can buy singles.

 

[Fallon]

The Anderson connectors that @Fallon suggested are a great option. I have one wired into my pickup. Only downside to them is it requires jumper cables that are compatible with them. If you're in a situation where you're using someone else's cables, or just a "regular" set of cables, it won't work. If you want the option of using regular cables, you can use these. JUMPER TERMINAL, BATTERY

My solution was to get good all copper jumper cables. Cut them near one end. Slap Anderson's on both ends. Long set plugged into the Anderson on the truck. If I needed jumper cables for something else I just plugged the short bit of cable & clamps in.

 

[John_Mc]

I'd prefer the Anderson connectors, however for either I would install a continuous duty solenoid with a "remote" switch to make it hot when desired.

Except that a solenoid won't work when your battery is dead, which is when you would need the jump. I'd wire it up with a manual disconnect switch.

 

[scootr]

I found these on Amazon for my Kubota MX.

 

[jimainiac]

scootr - That's a good set-up for jumping or providing power. Did you make the bracket for the posts?

 

[gsganzer]

I'm planning to do something similar on my engine driven welder.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I recently put a winch on front of my Deere 3038e and use it a lot since. It has a remote control. Since Deere battery is in front leads winch to battery are only about 3ft long (guessing). It came with heavy wire, about 2 gauge and I put a 50 amp fuse right at battery + positive. I connect a charger or maintainer at winch terminals.
If I ever had to jump start it I'd connect directly to battery.

 

[S854]

Another low-cost option if you’re just looking to power your transfer pump (I’m with Fuddy, connect directly to your tractor battery to jump start)…

I wired one of these to my transfer pump, mine runs off my Ridgid 18v power tool battery (they’re available for many different battery brands)… I have it enclosed in a waterproof box mounted to my pump to protect it when not in use…

Downside: You have to have access to the 18v battery (not something I typically carry on my tractor)…. My transfer pump is close to my garage/workshop where my batteries are kept so no big deal for me…

 

[Bentrim]

https://www.northerntool.com/products/buyers-products-28ft-long-booster-cables-600-amp-cable-gauge-4-length-28-ft-amps-600-model-5601026-5368664

Amazon.com

 

[scootr]

scootr - That's a good set-up for jumping or providing power. Did you make the bracket for the posts?

The bracket was there, part of the engine guard. The idea was to have a 12v supply for a fueling operation but in the picture there is a battery charger attached... a benefit I didn't consider.

 

[chim]

Some advertised information on jumper cables seems to be a bit optimistic. As an electrichicken, I''m aware that the rated ampacity of a conductor may be exceeded (in some cases quite a bit) for short durations without damage. But there's also at least some concern about voltage drop due to higher current. Then the connection needs to be considered. Many of the clothespin type of ends found on jumpers make very limited and not necessarily tight contact with the battery terminals. In any case, I can't help doing a bit of an eyeroll when a #1 cable is touted as handling 800A.

Here's a chart from a company called PriorityWire and Cable listing various sizes and ampacities of copper welding cable. These ratings differ from the "building wire" used for normal wiring. For example, #2 welding cable rating on the chart is 237A. For #2 that would be installed as part of regular electrical work, it would be rated between 90A and 130A (depending upon the insulation type).