Joining a "trim board" to a “stud”?

[miscjames]

For my shop(metal building) garage door the installer wants a wood frame around the opening. Which i will screw to the metal building. For studs I am going to use 2x12s on each side. The installer prefers I do not cut these and set the trim board on top of these studs as he doesn’t want a screw to land in the crack. Granted its not going to be weight bearing it just there to fill the gap at the top of the door way. But i really would like it secured. It is a 10foot span so i am thinking that it needs to be more than a 2x4. So my question is what do you all suggest on how to connect this trim board to the 2x12s?

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

2x4x10 is only rated to support 40# at that length. If you stand it up so its 4 inches tall and 2 inched wide it can support 300#. In your corners I would put in support blocks under each side.

So you have to ask, what weight would you think it will be supporting? There is design and then there is what you will actually be doing with it... they can differ substantially.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

If you are just wanting them connected without anything on the face or the back you could use strong tie angles. You could put them on top and bottom of your header and on the side of the upright.

 

[Hay Dude]

A properly rated Joist hanger.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The strength should come from the header and uprights also being fastened to the building along the length of the boards.

 

[ponytug]

For my shop(metal building) garage door the installer wants a wood frame around the opening. Which i will screw to the metal building. For beams I am going to use 2x12s on each side. The installer prefers I do not cut these and set the header on top of these beams as he doesn’t want a screw to land in the crack. Granted its not going to be weight bearing it just there to fill the gap at the top of the door way. But i really would like it secured. It is a 10foot span so i am thinking that it needs to be more than a 2x4. So my question is what do you all suggest on how to connect this header to the 2x12s?

If I understand your post correctly, these boards are for "trim" around the door, not load bearing. Is that right? Any reason to think that there might be loads in the future? Where are you located?

Your image shows a beam continuing up vertically. If so, I would use a Tee nailing plate, similar to this;

https://ssttoolbox.widen.net/conten...T12_ProdPho_RI_Prod_RigidTieConnector_C0.jpeg

Around hereabouts, OSB or plywood beams are preferred for garage door framing for multidirectional strength.

All the best,

Peter

 

[CH4Ohio]

I'd suggest you ask the garage door guy to frame the opening so he's happy with it. Or suggest someone that you can hire to frame it. No offense, but it doesn't sound like you're familiar with what's needed.

Beams are horizontal load-carrying structures. Yet you seem to be referring to vertical columns or studs, etc. as "beams". Maybe I'm reading this wrong. ???

A "header" is a load-carrying structure that is supported on both ends by jack-studs or cripples or . . . various names . . . The HEADER carries the load and spans the opening that can't have studs directly below supporting the weight of the roof or wall.

Sounds like your metal building is already self-supporting so you don't need a "header" -- you only need wood framing around the opening so the door weather-seal can be attached and allow the door to close against it. It will need to support the track and the moving weight of the door. The door frame has to be attached to columns or solid structural components.

You need to frame up an opening that will be solid. It will need to be attached to something rigid. (Assume you're not just attaching to the exterior metal.) Over the opening, frame it up using at least a 2x10 overhead and place spacers and bracing above so it's rigid. The door will require a torsion spring bracket that is lag-bolted into the "header" -- this needs to be rock solid and a 2x4 isn't nearly adequate.

 

[miscjames]

I'd suggest you ask the garage door guy to frame the opening so he's happy with it. Or suggest someone that you can hire to frame it. No offense, but it doesn't sound like you're familiar with what's needed.

Beams are horizontal load-carrying structures. Yet you seem to be referring to vertical columns or studs, etc. as "beams". Maybe I'm reading this wrong. ???

A "header" is a load-carrying structure that is supported on both ends by jack-studs or cripples or . . . various names . . . The HEADER carries the load and spans the opening that can't have studs directly below supporting the weight of the roof or wall.

Sounds like your metal building is already self-supporting so you don't need a "header" -- you only need wood framing around the opening so the door weather-seal can be attached and allow the door to close against it. It will need to support the track and the moving weight of the door. The door frame has to be attached to columns or solid structural components.

You need to frame up an opening that will be solid. It will need to be attached to something rigid. (Assume you're not just attaching to the exterior metal.) Over the opening, frame it up using at least a 2x10 overhead and place spacers and bracing above so it's rigid. The door will require a torsion spring bracket that is lag-bolted into the "header" -- this needs to be rock solid and a 2x4 isn't nearly adequate.
View attachment 1998854

Terms corrected thanks for the input. Do you have any suggestions for the question asked?

 

[miscjames]

A properly rated Joist hanger.

i thought of this too but i could not find any that would marry the edge of a 1.5inch board to the edge of a 1.5 inch board. Do you have any examples of a design that would work?

 

[miscjames]

The strength should come from the header and uprights also being fastened to the building along the length of the boards.

You are correct maybe i am overthinkingit

 

[miscjames]

If you are just wanting them connected without anything on the face or the back you could use strong tie angles. You could put them on top and bottom of your header and on the side of the upright.

View attachment 1988295

I like this idea

 

[CH4Ohio]

Terms corrected thanks for the input. Do you have any suggestions for the question asked?

I was mainly trying to understand your question . . . still not sure. I'm not interested in correcting your terminology -- just trying to understand your question.

You're saying 2x12 "STUDS". A 2x12 STUD would indicate that your wall is 12" THICK. I think you mean that you're going to use 2x12 boards on the inside frame of your door and they'll be FLAT against the wall. Is that right?

I thought I did offer some suggestions, along with a pic that might help you understand what you needed.

If you'd post a picture of your opening, both outside and inside, it would be pretty easy to offer options. Hard to say how to frame it without seeing what you have to attach to.

You need to wrap the door opening with 2x6 material. The weatherstripping will ultimately attach to this. What is available to attach this to? -- that's the main question about what you need to do. Your inside door frame will butt up to this or overlap it -- depending on how deep your wall is.

Your overall door frame isn't going to be just 1-1/2" thick. You'll have at least one more framing member behind those 2x12 boards. Overlap them in such a way that you can just screw through the face of the boards. If you're running 2x12 boards vertically on both sides of the doors, you could run them from floor to ceiling. (They still need another board behind them to fasten to and will join or overlap your door jamb lumber.) You could notch into the 2x12 to let your 2x10 header sit on the 2x12 and then it would get screwed right through the face of it into the board behind it.

You won't need to attach the "edges" of the header and supports if they both have another board behind them.

I think the garage door guy's advice about "not cutting the 2x12s" and concern about "not hitting a crack" is causing confusion. This really doesn't need to be that complicated. Take a look at the picture I sent and figure out how you're going to get similar framing on the inside of your metal building.

Let's see a few pictures. . .

 

[miscjames]

Here is some pictures i have of the inside and outside. I can get better ones if needed.

 

[jk96]

Are doors going to be roll up doors? Just did a similar building. Doors included and all were trimed out in metal. 3 roll up doors and one larger metal chain roll up.

 

[1 Old Man]

JK96 is correct. The exterior trim should be metal whether the door is a roll up or a track
overhead door.

 

[miscjames]

Are doors going to be roll up doors? Just did a similar building. Doors included and all were trimed out in metal. 3 roll up doors and one larger metal chain roll up.View attachment 2009756View attachment 2009757View attachment 2009758

Tracked as i wanted some r value on the doors. As i am insulting the whole thing. And i didnt like the roll ups that were offered with the building.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Thanks for the pics -- that helps! Most of my previous suggestions don't apply now that I see it. You're already trimmed out on the outside and door jamb side.

Seems to me that you'll want to put horizontal stringers/"nailers" (wood or metal) in your "studspace" every couple feet if you're still wanting to attach wood 2x12s. That would let you screw or bolt right through the face of them and attach it to the metal framing.

Same with over the door. Need to put something in the wall space that's fastened solid and attach your wood directly to that. The ends can still sit on the uprights.

Your interior is so neat and clean looking, I'd check with the metal building guys to see if they have a suggested approach. Do you have any metal "stud" or framing material left over that you can use as blocking? Might be easiest to attach metal to metal. I bet the metal building guys have a way to install an OH door without using a lot of wood framing.