Mahindra 5155 Anyone?

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I pick it up this afternoon, but talking to the tech, he said he did the engine oil change, oil filter, and just changed the hydro oil filter, not the hydraulic oil itself. He said he checked torque on bolts, greased the fittings, etc. Still, I think that price is way low. Unfortunately, I did not mark my filters... after this though, I will be doing all fluid changes myself.

As always, I appreciate your input very much. Thank you Sir... have a great weekend!

10 bucks for each quart maybe $11.
Hydro filter is expensive at around $120
They may have charged you for a full grease cartridge.
Shop supplies.
Oil dsposal
Oil filter is excessive at $40. (Check Nappa for Wix cross overs)
An hrs worth of service at what $120-$140?

Get yourself a good mesh filter funnel to help catch impurities when fueling up.
Good deal I think if they did what they said.

 

[Darth_DMack]

10 bucks for each quart maybe $11.
Hydro filter is expensive at around $120
They may have charged you for a full grease cartridge.
Shop supplies.
Oil dsposal
Oil filter is excessive at $40. (Check Nappa for Wix cross overs)
An hrs worth of service at what $120-$140?

Get yourself a good mesh filter funnel to help catch impurities when fueling up.
Good deal I think if they did what they said.

All great input!

Once I get the tractor, I will have a detailed invoice and I will share with you all. Fingers crossed that they actually DID the work...

 

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All great input!

Once I get the tractor, I will have a detailed invoice and I will share with you all. Fingers crossed that they actually DID the work...

They sell these filters in kits at Mahindra that are over $400. It does include the air and fuel filters.
Id still check with Nappa for as many cross over numbers as possible.
This thing takes 12 quarts of hydraulic fluid which can cost you close to $300 at Mahindra.
If you use their kit with their fluids, you're at around $800 just in supplies and parts.
There are cheaper alternatives but don't get cheap hydro fluid.
The cheap ones may contain all of the ingredients that are listed for manufacturers' requirements but what they do not have to state are the AMOUNTS of those ingredients.
You're only having to do this hydro thing every 500 hrs or so and if you average 30-40 hrs per year and the tractor is under cover, you're good for a long time so don't go Wimpy on the life blood.

 

[Darth_DMack]

They sell these filters in kits at Mahindra that are over $400. It does include the air and fuel filters.
Id still check with Nappa for as many cross over numbers as possible.
This thing takes 12 quarts of hydraulic fluid which can cost you close to $300 at Mahindra.
If you use their kit with their fluids, you're at around $800 just in supplies and parts.
There are cheaper alternatives but don't get cheap hydro fluid.
The cheap ones may contain all of the ingredients that are listed for manufacturers' requirements but what they do not have to state are the AMOUNTS of those ingredients.
You're only having to do this hydro thing every 500 hrs or so and if you average 30-40 hrs per year and the tractor is under cover, you're good for a long time so don't go Wimpy on the life blood.

Again, great advice.

I plan to keep this tractor as long as I can. I'm not skimpy on maintenance, that's for sure. Quality Oil and Fluids are the lifeblood of the machine, and staying up on the preventative maintenance is ingrained in me (36 years in the Army). Once my shop is finished, I will have a 15k pound vehicle lift and will be able to do it all myself.

I put 60 hours on this tractor in about 6 months, working it hard. I use the grapple more than anything, clearing trees. Starting to use the rotary cutter more and more now that I have the land cleared.

So far, I'm impressed with it.

 

[Irish487]

Again, great advice.

I plan to keep this tractor as long as I can. I'm not skimpy on maintenance, that's for sure. Quality Oil and Fluids are the lifeblood of the machine, and staying up on the preventative maintenance is ingrained in me (36 years in the Army). Once my shop is finished, I will have a 15k pound vehicle lift and will be able to do it all myself.

I put 60 hours on this tractor in about 6 months, working it hard. I use the grapple more than anything, clearing trees. Starting to use the rotary cutter more and more now that I have the land cleared.

So far, I'm impressed with it.

You might also check to see about your front axle gear oil. That is supposed to be changed at 50 hrs as well. My bill for that 2 plus gallons was $125.

 

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Again, great advice.

I plan to keep this tractor as long as I can. I'm not skimpy on maintenance, that's for sure. Quality Oil and Fluids are the lifeblood of the machine, and staying up on the preventative maintenance is ingrained in me (36 years in the Army). Once my shop is finished, I will have a 15k pound vehicle lift and will be able to do it all myself.

I put 60 hours on this tractor in about 6 months, working it hard. I use the grapple more than anything, clearing trees. Starting to use the rotary cutter more and more now that I have the land cleared.

So far, I'm impressed with it.

Nice !

 

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You might also check to see about your front axle gear oil. That is supposed to be changed at 50 hrs as well. My bill for that 2 plus gallons was $125.

Gear oil and hydro oil are the same viscosity of around 30 weight.
They are not measured the same as motor oil so don’t get confused with the 80/90 thing of gear oil.
Gear oil may have a couple more additives but that’s it.
Don’t forget, hydro oil is gear oil as well lubricating the entire center and rear gear parts of the tractor.

 

[Darth_DMack]

Update on my 5155 (50 hour service).

So, apparently, the only thing that was done was change the engine oil, oil filter, changed the hydraulic oil filter (did not change the hydraulic oil), check torque on bolts, and grease fittings.

They did not use Mahindra oil, they used Rotella.

I picked up my tractor on Friday, and ran it on Sunday for 4 hours.

Everything seems fine, but the grapple seems to be a wee bit "slower" than before. I'm noticing that curling the grapple "up" (pulling the joystick towards the center of the tractor, the joystick gets stuck, and does not release to the center like it used to. Could be an adjustment I need to look at.

I checked the oil before running, it's filled perfectly, and is crystal clear. I also checked the hydraulic oil, it's full as well, and clear.

I've used Rotella for years, never any issues... but I have not used it in a tractor, since this is my first one.

Another thing I noticed, that I have not noticed before, standing in the rear of the tractor, with it in neutral, I hear a clattering, or "rattle" down low. If you pull the rpms back to idle, the rattle goes away. I could not find anything loose, and the PTO is in neutral. I've just not noticed this rattle sound before.

 

[arrow]

Update on my 5155 (50 hour service).

So, apparently, the only thing that was done was change the engine oil, oil filter, changed the hydraulic oil filter (did not change the hydraulic oil), check torque on bolts, and grease fittings.

They did not use Mahindra oil, they used Rotella.

I picked up my tractor on Friday, and ran it on Sunday for 4 hours.

Everything seems fine, but the grapple seems to be a wee bit "slower" than before. I'm noticing that curling the grapple "up" (pulling the joystick towards the center of the tractor, the joystick gets stuck, and does not release to the center like it used to. Could be an adjustment I need to look at.

I checked the oil before running, it's filled perfectly, and is crystal clear. I also checked the hydraulic oil, it's full as well, and clear.

I've used Rotella for years, never any issues... but I have not used it in a tractor, since this is my first one.

Another thing I noticed, that I have not noticed before, standing in the rear of the tractor, with it in neutral, I hear a clattering, or "rattle" down low. If you pull the rpms back to idle, the rattle goes away. I could not find anything loose, and the PTO is in neutral. I've just not noticed this rattle sound before.

Sound is peculiar on a tractor. Noises can refer all over the place. Fill the bucket up with dirt and go see what you hear or not in the same fashion you’re hearing now.
Check fender bolts especially where it meets the plastic.
Usually low hydraulic fluid causes a stutter in operation rather than a slowness. It is usually always clear.
Rotella is good stuff. So is the Shell hydraulic fluid if you can find it.
Check your fluids after running as well.

 

[Russellwcook]

Have any of you guys had issues with the shuttle shifter popping out of gear?

Our 5155 has been popping out of reverse when the clutch is released. The shuttle shift lever springs forward to neutral and gears audibly grind when it pops out. Holding the lever in reverse doesn't solve it.

It did it to us a couple times the first night we used it. I assumed it was operator error at first, because it seems like the shuttle shifter is not completely engaging into reverse. So I slowed my shifting down and tried being more deliberate. Still popped out.

The clutch pedal had excessive free play, so I adjusted it to spec and hoped this would solve the problem, thinking that possibly the free play was preventing the clutch from disengaging completely, preventing the shuttle shifter from shifting completely into gear.

After using it for a few more hours tonight, it still occasionally pops out of reverse. Much less frequently than before the clutch was properly adjusted, though. I wish it had revealed this problem at the dealership before we towed it home. The tractor had 5 hours on the meter when we took ownership of it. Could the transmission possibly be damaged from those first 5 hrs. of use at the dealership? I'll be calling the dealer on Monday with some questions.

But, have you guys experienced anything like this? Am I overreacting? We live and operate this tractor or a fairly steep mountainside property, so the thing popping out of gear is definitely an issue. I'm going to look at the shift linkage between the shuttle shift lever and the transmission tomorrow to see if there are any adjustments to be made there. Hoping it's something simple for sure.

Mine did the same. Cable came loose under the shifter not allowing it to fully engage. Warranty covered it. They replaced the bracket and changed the cable as it was damaged.

 

[arrow]

Update on my 5155 (50 hour service).

So, apparently, the only thing that was done was change the engine oil, oil filter, changed the hydraulic oil filter (did not change the hydraulic oil), check torque on bolts, and grease fittings.

They did not use Mahindra oil, they used Rotella.

I picked up my tractor on Friday, and ran it on Sunday for 4 hours.

Everything seems fine, but the grapple seems to be a wee bit "slower" than before. I'm noticing that curling the grapple "up" (pulling the joystick towards the center of the tractor, the joystick gets stuck, and does not release to the center like it used to. Could be an adjustment I need to look at.

I checked the oil before running, it's filled perfectly, and is crystal clear. I also checked the hydraulic oil, it's full as well, and clear.

I've used Rotella for years, never any issues... but I have not used it in a tractor, since this is my first one.

Another thing I noticed, that I have not noticed before, standing in the rear of the tractor, with it in neutral, I hear a clattering, or "rattle" down low. If you pull the rpms back to idle, the rattle goes away. I could not find anything loose, and the PTO is in neutral. I've just not noticed this rattle sound before.

Darth
I reread your post. When you checked hydro fluid, did you screw the dipstick in or rest it on the collar? That sound you hear lm now wondering if it’s your pump gurgling which is a sign of low fluid. How’s the tractor power?

 

[Darth_DMack]

Darth
I reread your post. When you checked hydro fluid, did you screw the dipstick in or rest it on the collar? That sound you hear lm now wondering if it’s your pump gurgling which is a sign of low fluid. How’s the tractor power

With the tractor off, I unscrew the hydro dipstick, wipe it off, and then just set it down into the reservoir, not screwing it in. It shows full...

Tractor power is good to go, just seems a little more slow on the controls for the grapple.

 

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With the tractor off, I unscrew the hydro dipstick, wipe it off, and then just set it down into the reservoir, not screwing it in. It shows full...

Tractor power is good to go, just seems a little more slow on the controls for the grapple.

 

[Seachaser]

Going to the dealer next week. Still undecided between the 4550 and 5155. Will mainly use it for grapple/FEL work after Helene’s devastation. I have other tractors for regular tractor stuff. With the rebate dealer quoted $28,000 for the 4550 with FEL. Any ideas if this is a decent deal and how much more the 5155 would be?

 

[Darth_DMack]

Going to the dealer next week. Still undecided between the 4550 and 5155. Will mainly use it for grapple/FEL work after Helene’s devastation. I have other tractors for regular tractor stuff. With the rebate dealer quoted $28,000 for the 4550 with FEL. Any ideas if this is a decent deal and how much more the 5155 would be?

I can't speak to prices, but I bought the 5155 about a year ago. I have the W.R. Long third function kit on it, using my regular joystick with the third function buttons added. My 5155 has been 100% trouble free, and I use it pretty hard with my grapple, stump bucket, box blade and rotary cutter.

I love the NO DEF / REGEN, and how it just works. I've loaded my tires, so the extra ballast has helped immensely.

The shuttle shift is also good to go too, but I always make sure to use my clutch fully, and make sure I'm not moving to reverse directions. I'm constantly amazed at how much power this 5155 actually can produce.

 

[Seachaser]

Thanks a bunch. Dealer’s receptionist said this morning about $7000 difference. Ball park figure. Small business compared to some and he was out helping a customer. I’ll talk to him Monday.

 

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Thanks a bunch. Dealer’s receptionist said this morning about $7000 difference. Ball park figure. Small business compared to some and he was out helping a customer. I’ll talk to him Monday.

I’m going to state something that is sacrilegious to some: don’t make your decision based on price.
The most important thing is what you plan to do with the tractor. What good is saving money if the tractor is not doing what you need it to do? The 51 has about a 400 lb lift advantage over the 45 at the fel. The rear lift 3 pt comparison is not nearly as much.
If you are planning to push slash, you need as much weight as possible. You’d be surprised how much a bunch of branches can weigh. A compromise might be the 5145.

 

[Darth_DMack]

@arrow

Tech Question for you Sir... I picked up a 2gal container of the Tractor Supply (Traveler brand) Universal Tractor Fluid. I got this because the Service Tech said that it was ok to use it to top off my hydraulic fluid, because I have a leak at a few of my FEL fittings. I will have to loosen them, clean them out, then re-tighten to stop the leak.

What say you, on this TSC fluid?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-2-gal-t806383

States it meets J20C requirements. Is it safe to use in my 5155?

Thanks as always, much appreciated.

 

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@arrow

Tech Question for you Sir... I picked up a 2gal container of the Tractor Supply (Traveler brand) Universal Tractor Fluid. I got this because the Service Tech said that it was ok to use it to top off my hydraulic fluid, because I have a leak at a few of my FEL fittings. I will have to loosen them, clean them out, then re-tighten to stop the leak.

What say you, on this TSC fluid?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-2-gal-t806383

States it meets J20C requirements. Is it safe to use in my 5155?

Thanks as always, much appreciated.

As you know, the stuff used nowadays is called a "universal" type fluid that is utilized all over the tractor: gearing, front end, wet brkes, hydraulics, etc.
So one asks themselves, "why is the hydro fluid at Tractor Supply so cheap"? They are alleged to have all the ingredients of certain manufacturers requirements and they most likely do. The caveat is that there is not the amount of these ingredients in comparison to the better oils. Its not much better than the cheap stuff akin to what they put in at the manufacturer just to get the tractor moving off the assembly line and test hydraulic function. Thats why the manufacturers suggest you get it out of there within 50-100 hrs.
Seeing you have yet to drain your hydraulic oil, I see no problem with topping off with this stuff in the meantime. Probably prudent to check and match viscosity of current oil which I believe Mahindra uses a 32 weight. Even if lighter, the amount to "top off" is not going to hurt your tractor.

Most of these oils are coming from one manufacturer and usually its from Warren oil. My Mahindra dealership has gotten hydro fluid from Valvoline at times and they are stated to be the supplier for Mahindra. This info received from the dealership owners gathered at seminars so I cannot verify the veracity of such. I do know Valvoline has always made good stuff.

 

[SoldierP]

Going to the dealer next week. Still undecided between the 4550 and 5155. Will mainly use it for grapple/FEL work after Helene’s devastation. I have other tractors for regular tractor stuff. With the rebate dealer quoted $28,000 for the 4550 with FEL. Any ideas if this is a decent deal and how much more the 5155 would be?

I had a 4550 for a couple years with no problems. But, for my use, I make mostly short moves - loader, firewood, etc., and the manual, non-sync gearbox was a total pain. Two years ago I sold the 4550 and brought a 5155 with the shuttle shift plus other improvements and it has been great. The capabilities are similar to the 4550 but the ease of use is so much better! It is a well thought out tractor. Highly recommend. For prices, look at Red Dirt Tractors.