Buying Advice Questions about potential purchase, not sure where to start

[WinterDeere]

Tough to say based on what's been shown, but if the rocks are localized to a few areas such as the one shown, then 1 operator + 1 skid steer + 1-2 days with a rock bucket and a regular bucket might be all that's needed for the major rock removal and sculpting. Then you'd take it from there with seeding, mowing, and the lesser priorities.

The property looks great, but I agree with your original assessment that you need a tractor. Because our strongest dealer network here is Deere (about 90% of my neighbors and local farms are all Deere), I'd be looking at a 2-series or its predecessors. If Kubota has better support in your area, then their equivalent (B series?) is where I'd be starting.

I know some here are always defending the other brands, which can be had cheaper. But I'm not usually one to fight the current, and I'm not interested in "cheaper" or "other", when shopping for my own tractor. Adjust your own priorities accordingly, but keep in mind you're probably going to want parts and support for this thing for the next 20 years or more.

 

[dodge man]

People will usually recommend their favorite brand, I’ll let you make that choice as there are a lot of choices. What I will recommend is skipping the subcompact tractor and get a compact. I owned a Kubota BX for 10 years, a great little tractor, no complaints but bought a John Deere 2025r 5 years ago. I finish mow with a mid mount mower and have an end loader and various rear implements. The slightly bigger size and bigger tires make it much better for my use.

I own 3 acres and have often wished for a backhoe but don’t have one. The only reason I don’t have one is the cost, it’s an expensive option. If you need one get one but if you can get by without one skip it.

Don’t get to caught up in the analysis, it’s easy to get pulled in different directions. At some point just trust your instincts and dive in. Enjoy the process and start slow and careful. You’ll catch on quickly if.

 

[fattylumpkins]

Tough to say based on what's been shown, but if the rocks are localized to a few areas such as the one shown, then 1 operator + 1 skid steer + 1-2 days with a rock bucket and a regular bucket might be all that's needed for the major rock removal and sculpting. Then you'd take it from there with seeding, mowing, and the lesser priorities.

The property looks great, but I agree with your original assessment that you need a tractor. Because our strongest dealer network here is Deere (about 90% of my neighbors and local farms are all Deere), I'd be looking at a 2-series or its predecessors. If Kubota has better support in your area, then their equivalent (B series?) is where I'd be starting.

I know some here are always defending the other brands, which can be had cheaper. But I'm not usually one to fight the current, and I'm not interested in "cheaper" or "other", when shopping for my own tractor. Adjust your own priorities accordingly, but keep in mind you're probably going to want parts and support for this thing for the next 20 years or more.

Thanks There is certainly a consolidation of rocks in certain areas - which I tried to show an example, but they're scattered about, as well. I don't really mind them aside from the potential damage they can do to my equipment.

People will usually recommend their favorite brand, I’ll let you make that choice as there are a lot of choices. What I will recommend is skipping the subcompact tractor and get a compact. I owned a Kubota BX for 10 years, a great little tractor, no complaints but bought a John Deere 2025r 5 years ago. I finish mow with a mid mount mower and have an end loader and various rear implements. The slightly bigger size and bigger tires make it much better for my use.

I own 3 acres and have often wished for a backhoe but don’t have one. The only reason I don’t have one is the cost, it’s an expensive option. If you need one get one but if you can get by without one skip it.

Don’t get to caught up in the analysis, it’s easy to get pulled in different directions. At some point just trust your instincts and dive in. Enjoy the process and start slow and careful. You’ll catch on quickly if.

I agree, next steps are a visit to a few dealers and going to look at the used one I posted a few pages ago. There are a lot of choices, but analysis paralysis is definitely a factor. It's all great information I'm receiving though, so I'll take it.

I've read / heard a couple sentiments about subcompact versus compact, going one step larger than what you think you need, and so much more - after reviewing everyone's comments again, it's really laid out a clear plan. Everyone has been so helpful and patient sharing their insight, suggestions, and experiences as it relates to my own.

 

[2manyrocks]

Fence wire wraps around forestry mulching heads. Seems like clearing a fence row either ends up being done by hand with a chainsaw, etc or by a dozer.

Would be nice if you could find a use for the rocks instead of just moving them from point A to point B. Our area is scattered with stone fences where farmers piled them up by hand to get them out of their fields. A thumb on a mini X would make that job faster and easier than having to loop a lifting strap around each rock and pick them up with a FEL on a tractor. But if you want to use them to fill in some area that is trying to wash out, you don't need the mini X for that.

I think looking at prices may help you focus on what you can actually afford in your area.

 

[WinterDeere]

There is certainly a consolidation of rocks in certain areas - which I tried to show an example, but they're scattered about, as well. I don't really mind them aside from the potential damage they can do to my equipment.

Call me biased, I've lived almost exclusively in very old farm houses (current one is coming up on 300th birthday), but around here the farmers just piled or stacked the stones at the edges of the fields, or to define the yard. So my current house, like all others before, has a rubble wall across the back yard, which separates the part of the yard in which my kids play from my firewood processing area.

I mention this, because you already have one steep area with a lot of rocks. You mention turning this into a garden area, but rather than fight nature, I'd consider just piling the rest of the randomly-scattered rocks in this area that's already rocky, and then working the garden around that, or even use the rubble wall as a separator between crops. Heck, after moving the randomly-scattered rocks to the place that's already pretty rocky, maybe you'll decide you want the garden in one of those other spots.

 

[Hayloft]

Looking to purchase my first tractor. Have decent lawn tractor (JD x350) but it's proven inadequate for any projects beyond cutting grass.

There is a John Deere dealership nearby, and a Kubota dealer even closer, so I would like to limit my search to these brands.

I currently live on a 3.8 acre property in Washington. It's slightly hilly, very rocky soil (sometimes boulders), there's several trees but it's mostly a meadow, and it's constantly on the verge of being swallowed by blackberry. The property was neglected prior to purchase, so I'm in the process of restoring it and transforming it into my sanctuary. Use cases are moving wood, I would love to get a brush hog (as I've paid for this several times now and it's baffling how quickly blackberry grows), moving sod, filling holes, evening out land / tilling, and as a helper for ambitious gardening plans.

I think it's time for me to start considering a tractor. My budget is probably around $20K with some wiggle room.

Additional considerations: I've never used a tractor before, I'm not very mechanically inclined, and as such, I would love to have something user friendly and reliable. I don't know if this matters, I'm in my 30s and a woman, so I want to come prepared to any dealer so I don't get taken advantage of.

To be honest, I'm not 100% sure a tractor is the right thing for me. The anonymity of the internet will allow me to admit I'm sorta an idiot and in over my head, and maybe I should just stick to hand tools and manual labor.

Either way, thank you for any insight you can provide, I sincerely appreciate your help and advice.

Hello
Just my opinion on a couple things that could help you with choices about tractors.
Tractors are great work tools and there are many attachments on the market to help you do specific jobs. For your blackberry clearing job you prob need a tractor. Use your good sense to match up the tools for the jobs you want or need to get done. Tractor size matters and while you can oversize your tractor on smaller land parcels I would always try to get the bigger and heavier tractor within reason. Heavier is usually better. Don't be afraid to buy a used tractor if you're starting out. Read and learn what things to look for picking a tractor. Don't fall for the most popular brand hype. There's several capable brands out there. Buy your attachments as you decide what you need and can afford.
You got lots of blackberries taking over your future planting area ? Need a lower cost solution ? Your front loader bucket is a common part of your tractor and you can put a low-cost ratchet rake on your loader to help clear blackberries without breaking the bank. Yes there are many other capable tools (like grapples)to clear brush and blackberries - but the RRake will be an economical start for you.
Good luck/Regards

 

[Milo]

Cursory reviewing the a popular marketplace, I sent a message about this one.

That would make an excellent tractor for you and it's priced very fairly IMO.

I had its predecessor (B7500) outfitted like that one with loader, 54" mower deck, and a rear blade. I bought it new shortly after getting the 49 acre property and used it for everything including mowing the lawn as well as the meadow's 3' tall grass and weeds. The loader was used to clear snow, move dirt, spread stone on the driveway, and anything else that needed moved. The dealer included a ballast box which was more convenient than the blade when using the loader in the woods or tight places. I didn't have forks but made do with strapping to hooks on the bucket. After having an area of pine cut I moved and stacked 100's of 12' logs with that little tractor.

 

[ning]

That would make an excellent tractor for you and it's priced very fairly IMO.

I'm reading that the B7501 is similar to today's B line, and the 7501 had 21hp.
MSRP on a B2301 (+1hp, lifts 400# more on 3ph, 178# more capacity on the loader) is $23k; this gets

• quick attach loader/bucket
• loader has slightly higher capacity (178#)
• 3ph 400# more lift
• engine +1hp
• new tires vs 18-year-old
• still have to buy a cutter (~1k) & blade (if you need a blade - I have one and almost always back-drag with the bucket instead - spread some gravel literally once with the blade and regret its purchase)

So yeah, decent deal. Assuming you can get it for 14k (asking "15k obo") vs 24k for a new one.
Not sure if it's an amazing deal, but it seems fair.

 

[Carl_NH]

As posted before the local 230 hr Kubota B7510 with books/manuals was well cared for and at $15K with FEL, 48" Brush hog, a rear blade is a great start. If one wants to upgrade to a bigger unit in the future there's minimal cost/loss.

Its bigger than the Kubota BX and smaller than the L, so a great size for your acreage and purpose.. Con's as noted - no QA bucket but get a set of debris forks for $300 and you will be happy!

 

[2manyrocks]

OP may not want to fool with changing attachments on the FEL. I'm not sure what attachments she'd want for the FEL anyway or if she could find them in a size that's appropriate to the B7510 since so many are designed for skid steers designed to lift much more weight.

 

[ning]

OP may not want to fool with changing attachments on the FEL. I'm not sure what attachments she'd want for the FEL anyway or if she could find them in a size that's appropriate to the B7510 since so many are designed for skid steers designed to lift much more weight.

Clamp-on bucket forks would probably do fine for a batch of small logs or brush.

 

[Williy]

The best way to find a tractor to suit you is to try every tractor you can get your hands on this way you can check
out the build quality, are all the controls easy to get to and
what tractors have options as standard that other tractors
have as options just so you won't be kicking yourself in the
a** later

willy

 

[airbiscuit]

There's a little bit of zen involved in the decision process.

 

[2manyrocks]

Clamp-on bucket forks would probably do fine for a batch of small logs or brush.

Looking at her pictures, I didn't notice a lot of material to even need forks. Others may see it differently.

 

[airbiscuit]

Correct. A tractor with a loader, a rough cut mower and a rear blade will do a whole lot of work for her.

 

[WinterDeere]

Correct. A tractor with a loader, a rough cut mower and a rear blade will do a whole lot of work for her.

Agreed. And I would absolutely never buy a machine with a pinned bucket for dual use as a mower, despite @2manyrocks question about the actual need to switch FEL implements, because she's likely going to find that dropping the bucket before mowing and retrieving it when done is the quickest way to make the machine lighter and more maneuverable.

Dropping the whole loader is much better yet, but even as relatively easy as that is, dicking around with hydraulic hoses for every weekly mowing gets old real fast. Dropping a bucket off a JDQA or SSQA loader is a very fast and easy compromise, and removes a lot of the extended weight that turns your machine into a bucking bronco at mowing speeds.

 

[Milo]

Quick attach loader ends are ideal obviously. But the whole loader came off my B7500 in 3 minutes so I often removed it to mow. However removing the mowing deck took 10 minutes and another 10-15 to put it back on so when using the loader during mowing season I often left it on. It did raise up out of the way pretty well and in that position was good for rough cutting the field.

 

[Runner]

Quick attach loader ends are ideal obviously. But the whole loader came off my B7500 in 3 minutes so I often removed it to mow. However removing the mowing deck took 10 minutes and another 10-15 to put it back on so when using the loader during mowing season I often left it on. It did raise up out of the way pretty well and in that position was good for rough cutting the field.

This is why I went to a rear finish mower and the belly mower sits in the barn. Most times I need to use the loader for bucket or forks for minor jobs, the mower just stays on (making a great counter weight), but if I want more clearance/maneuverability, it goes off and on in a minute.

 

[2manyrocks]

It's okay to call me lazy, but I wouldn't remove the bucket even if it was a quick attach just to mow that area.

 

[rScotty]

It's okay to call me lazy, but I wouldn't remove the bucket even if it was a quick attach just to mow that area.

I was thinking back, and over the years about seven of our tractors have had Front End Loaders (FEL). Early ones did not; they were just for ag and 3pt implements. But for the chore & landscaping work that we do now instead of farming, a FEL is our single most useful implement. I really LIKE looking forward while working instead of always looking back over my shoulder.

The Kubota is our first tractor with SSQA on the FEL, but from now they will all have it. Not just for the ability to use other types of front end implements. Often it is handy not to have anything hanging off of the front of the tractor. With SSQA it takes only a moment to drop or attach a bucket.
rScotty