Trailer JD 3039R

   / Trailer JD 3039R #11  
If you decide to go with this size trailer, PM me.
I have a trailer that I bought new years ago and has had very little use, you may like it.
Aluma 8220WB
The wb stands for wide body.
I am 33 miles away from your Deere dealer in story city.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I am very interested.
This looks like it's eighty three inches wide by twenty feet long. That would work well. What are the axles rated and how much do you want for it?
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #13  
You might want to look up and study what your towing capacity really is. Ford and the other manufacturers are terrible at false advertising. They advertise these inflated towing and payload capacities that aren’t real world numbers. For example the inflated numbers are for a regular cab 2 wheel drive XL with no options and the 3.5 eco boost and the heavy duty payload package. If you are towing only 7000 pounds you should be ok.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I tow my 3033R with 320R loader and filled tires around on a 16 foot 7000 lb. Big Tex 70TV closed-side trailer with my 1/2 ton Ram. If I were buying a new trailer for this purpose today, I'd go a few feet longer, because:

1. The 3-series is supposed to be towed backwards, due to front-opening hood without safety latch (see your manual).

2. It's a challenge getting the weight distribution just right, and then also having sufficient room at each end for whatever implement you're carrying that day.

I've played all the games, such as dropping my really heavy "heavy-duty" bucket up front, then backing off, turning around, and backing the tractor onto the trailer for towing. This puts the ballast box and bucket up front, but the weight of the tractor itself more centered on the rear axle, and gives a pretty level loading.

A 1/2 ton truck with a 7000 lb. trailer is perfectly adequate for towing this load, but you do need to be more careful in your weight distribution, to keep tongue weight within limits. You'll likely spend the best part of an hour getting it figured out and dialed in, the first time you tow this combination, but thereafter do it in 15 minutes, if repeating the same haul with the same implements. A weight-distributing hitch would be highly recommended.

A slightly longer trailer would give me more room for implements, giving more options in the loading order, while still getting the weight distribution approximately correct.

As to payload, my 7k trailer weighed something like 1700 lb. from the factory, leaving 5300 lb. payload capacity. I've since fitted it with winch and batteries, that probably leave about 5000 lb. for payload.
I tow my 3033R with 320R loader and filled tires around on a 16 foot 7000 lb. Big Tex 70TV closed-side trailer with my 1/2 ton Ram. If I were buying a new trailer for this purpose today, I'd go a few feet longer, because:

1. The 3-series is supposed to be towed backwards, due to front-opening hood without safety latch (see your manual).

2. It's a challenge getting the weight distribution just right, and then also having sufficient room at each end for whatever implement you're carrying that day.

I've played all the games, such as dropping my really heavy "heavy-duty" bucket up front, then backing off, turning around, and backing the tractor onto the trailer for towing. This puts the ballast box and bucket up front, but the weight of the tractor itself more centered on the rear axle, and gives a pretty level loading.

A 1/2 ton truck with a 7000 lb. trailer is perfectly adequate for towing this load, but you do need to be more careful in your weight distribution, to keep tongue weight within limits. You'll likely spend the best part of an hour getting it figured out and dialed in, the first time you tow this combination, but thereafter do it in 15 minutes, if repeating the same haul with the same implements. A weight-distributing hitch would be highly recommended.

A slightly longer trailer would give me more room for implements, giving more options in the loading order, while still getting the weight distribution approximately correct.

As to payload, my 7k trailer weighed something like 1700 lb. from the factory, leaving 5300 lb. payload capacity. I've since fitted it with winch and batteries, that probably leave about 5000 lb. for payload.
This is very helpful. Thaks a bunch.

I was just looking at both and eighteen foot trailer and a twenty footer.

Some advantages to both. Leaning towards the 20 ft.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #15  
Agreed with @dodge man. If you're buying a 7k trailer, no issues with any modern 1/2 ton pickup. But if you're buying a 10k trailer, double check the tow capacity for your specific vehicle configuration.

Also, a weight-distributing hitch is highly recommended for 7k lb. on a 150, and downright mandatory at 10k lb.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #16  
Some advantages to both. Leaning towards the 20 ft.
Agreed. 20 ft offers more flexibility for positioning and weight distribution, as well as overall space for hauling an implement, given the size of your tractor. Just remember a 20 ft. is heavier, so if only 2x3500# axles, you're eating into payload capacity with the larger trailer.

What's the curb weight on the 7k lb 20 ft'er?
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #17  
Here's the trailer I'm using, bought with solid sides because I use it most for hauling logs, but also mulch, compost, crushed stone, etc.


Note the 18 ft configuration is right around 5000# payload, but an open side variant might have slightly lower curb weight. Also, they use pressure treated lumber for the flooring, which must lose more than 100# in just drying the first few weeks... makes you wonder when they measure "curb weight". :D
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I did not get curb weight. Coulda-shoulda. Dealer said it would be fine with 5k tractor.

The 18 ft is a 10k trailer.

Both have 1 ft high stake sides. Better ramp on the 18.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #19  
Yeah, a 10k lb trailer is going to have a payload capacity over 7k lb. No worries, there.

Definitely consider a weight-distributing hitch, if towing this with a 1/2 ton. It adds a few dollars to your rig, but relieves endless headaches with sensitivity to tongue weight and loading, when putting such a heavy trailer on a light truck.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#20  
My trailer vocabulary, being woefully inadequate as it is, suggests to me that what you are calling a weight distribution hitch is something that I call anti-sway bars. I have them on my horse trailer. Is that what you're referring to?
 

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