Power to the cab

   / Power to the cab #1  

Saucymynx

Silver Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2018
Messages
109
Tractor
LS MT7 101 Farmall 656 Ford 2610 Farmall 140. JD 670
As I get deeper into this farming thing, I’m adding more powered equipment in the cab. I have a nav system, camera system, bail thrower controller, and now a hay preservative system. Everything takes power, and I don’t want a rats nest of power leads coming from the battery into the cab. How have you all solved this problem? What I am thinking of is the main lead of sufficient size up to a bus bar in the cab with some sort of plug system so I can just plug in. It would also be easier for taking things off in the winter time. Any ideas? If you have solved this problem, I’d love to know what parts you used. Not that I think it makes a difference, the tractor that I am working on is an LSMT7101. Thanks.
 
   / Power to the cab #2  
I have an almost full 55 gallon poly drum of Greensaver preservative I'll sell you as well as the full Ag tronics application system. I have no use for either anymore. All I do is run mostly alfalfa round bales now. Looked at your bio and it don't state where you reside. I'm in SE Michigan btw and you'd need a pickup truck to haul the drum and it's pretty heavy but I can load it no issue if interested. There is around 45 gallons in it and always kept inside and never frozen either. It come with a pump as well.

If interested, PM me.
 
   / Power to the cab
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I have an almost full 55 gallon poly drum of Greensaver preservative I'll sell you as well as the full Ag tronics application system. I have no use for either anymore. All I do is run mostly alfalfa round bales now. Looked at your bio and it don't state where you reside. I'm in SE Michigan btw and you'd need a pickup truck to haul the drum and it's pretty heavy but I can load it no issue if interested. There is around 45 gallons in it and always kept inside and never frozen either. It come with a pump as well.

If interested, PM me.
Thanks for the offer, but I actually just installed my system today and have two drums of preservative. I am in the upper peninsula by the way.
 
   / Power to the cab #4  
I have no idea about power to your cab as my Kubota M9's have 3 dedicated and fused circuits that I can tie into. They all terminate in the cab and have Molex blanking plugs on them. Even my open station has them.
 
   / Power to the cab #5  
Thanks for the offer, but I actually just installed my system today and have two drums of preservative. I am in the upper peninsula by the way.
Not that far away actually. I'll make you a deal you cannot refuse on it. Sold my NH 575 high capacity square bailer as well as the hay wagons last year and the guy that bought my bailer lives up there by you as well. I used it on small squares but I have no need for it now. Taking up room in the shop. Stuff stinks...lol

How big is your LS, I'm not familiar with them at all. Probably works for small squares but for what I run now, I need serious PTO horsepower. MY M9's are both turned up a tad. They are delivering almost 90 PTO horsepower, which is about 9 more than they are rated for stock. Had my Kubota dealer turn them up for me. Pretty easy with mechanical pumps I was told but I don't fiddle with that stuff as a rule. Even turned up, they still just sip fuel and don't smoke either, well they do if I lug them, something I prefer not doing. Besides, with the hours I have on them, 6500 and 5000, I don't want any engine related issues. Both been really bullet proof tractors. Bought them in 2001 and 2002.
 
   / Power to the cab #6  
You could always come down and stop at Cabelas on the way home. I'm exactly 12 miles from there.
 
   / Power to the cab #7  
What I've done with all my vehicles is to install an extra fuse block in the cab. Then run one positive and one negative wire to the fuse block from the battery. That will give you multiple hookups and they will be fused, always a good thing. Here's an example: Amazon.com
 
   / Power to the cab #8  
I use this Anderson Powerpole fused buss block:

1722166739857.png
1722166772545.png


I mounted it below the dash where it's easily accessible and ran #10 wire forward to the battery.

It provides 8 individually fused circuits, up tp 40 amps, for all my plug in equipment.

 
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   / Power to the cab #9  
On a much smaller scale, this is what I did to have constant power to two users that I didn't want to have working only with ignition or accessory, like the cigarette lighter does.

Used the factory 30A connector behind the seat for power and ground, and two entirely different switches, facing forward, for the two outlets for (nearly) idiot proof tactile feel.

The universal box was sourced at Amazon, then holes drilled as needed.
DSCN5565[2].JPG
 
   / Power to the cab
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Not that far away actually. I'll make you a deal you cannot refuse on it. Sold my NH 575 high capacity square bailer as well as the hay wagons last year and the guy that bought my bailer lives up there by you as well. I used it on small squares but I have no need for it now. Taking up room in the shop. Stuff stinks...lol

How big is your LS, I'm not familiar with them at all. Probably works for small squares but for what I run now, I need serious PTO horsepower. MY M9's are both turned up a tad. They are delivering almost 90 PTO horsepower, which is about 9 more than they are rated for stock. Had my Kubota dealer turn them up for me. Pretty easy with mechanical pumps I was told but I don't fiddle with that stuff as a rule. Even turned up, they still just sip fuel and don't smoke either, well they do if I lug them, something I prefer not doing. Besides, with the hours I have on them, 6500 and 5000, I don't want any engine related issues. Both been really bullet proof tractors. Bought them in 2001 and 2002.
My tractor is 101 hp engine and 85 hp PTO. About 11,000 pounds ballasted. I also run a 575 baler. That thing eats hay like nobody’s business. Where we are it’s hard to get first cutting at the right time because it’s still cool in June. I’m hoping that the preservative system will help me with that. As it is, the best I can usually get it dried to is about 20%. I have a two-year supply on the preservative.
 
   / Power to the cab
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks for all the ideas everyone. Keep them coming! I feel really stupid. I actually have a three pin AMP connector in the cab. I didn’t know what it was. It looks like I can get a pigtail to put on my equipment and a connector to convert one outlet to two. I think I’ll start there.
 
   / Power to the cab #12  
575's really hold their value. I sold mine for what I paid for it actually and no quibbling either. Sold it on Tractor House in 3 days. Mine had all the options, hydraulic tongue swing, extra sweep pickup and knotter blowers as well. Always kept inside too. I keep all my tractors and hay tools inside all year.

I will warn you about one thing and that is, if you are selling small squares to horsey people, be very careful about how much preservative you apply because it will impart a chemical smell to the hay if over applied and horsey people have good smellers. Myself, I'd never bale at 20% relative and my 575 as well as my round bailer has/have the Delmhorst slipper shoes in the bale chamber and feed table that gives me an ongoing and continuous moisture reading to the digital readout in the cab plus I can set the maximum relative moisture to whatever value I want and it will alarm if I go over that preset number. Delmhorst moisture meters are not cheap but Delmhorst is the recognized leader in moisture monitoring, plus I can unplug mine and use it to check the moisture of windrows or take a sample of forage and put in a plastic bucket and probe it for RM as well.

One thing I believe in and that is, you have to invest in the necessary tools to make sure your crop isn't going to spoil. Good rule of thumb for me as far as RM is concerned besides the Delmhorst is, I watch the bailer as I'm bailing and if it's producing at least some chaff, it should be ok far as moisture content. That don't apply to bailing wheat straw however and I only bale wheat straw after it's been rained on because the rain washes off the wax coating and makes the wheat straw much more absorbent for animal bedding. I used to square bale entire wheat fields for the local road board. Talk about a boring job, but it paid really well and it was no touch as well. Their employees picked them up and hauled them away. All I ever did was keep the twine box full and drive. I believe the most I ever ran in one day was 4200 squares and that was from dawn until dark, just stopping the replenish the twine balls and take a leak and eat a sandwich which I did on the fly. I charged them 35 cents a bale so you do the math. My big issue with the 575 was how it tossed me around when making headland turns. That packer box had a ton of inertia even with my heavy tractors. I don't miss any of it in reality. Computer driven round baling for me is light years easier and all I have to do is change net rolls infrequently. Everything from bale density to number of wraps of net is computer controlled, I just watch the screen in the cab to make sure I'm evenly filling the bale chamber and the machine tells me when it's time to eject a bale and rounds are so much less labor for me plus I don't have to find help to load the barn loft anymore either.

Small squares to me are a ton of work for not a lot of financial reward for the work done and I have only one customer and he buys all of it and has for over 5 years now. he drops his semi trailers, I load them, he secures them and off they go.

Right now he's lusting for my alfalfa second cut. I had rain issues this year and was unable to get an early first so it will only be 2 cuts this year unless I do a winter cut, which I may depending on how it grows. I've harvested my best hay in December and even January here. So long as there is no snow on it, it dries down fine.

Alfalfa is touchy anyway. I cut it using the wide thin swath attachment on my discbine and then let sit for a couple days and then windrow it with my Kuhn Masterdrive twin head rotary rake, let it sit another day and bale it up. I do it entirely by myself and I'm 74. The issue with alfalfa is, the more you disturb it by raking or tedding, the more it suffers from leaf loss. I have a 4 star tedder as well that never leaves the barn. I should sell it as I never use it and I bought it new.
 
   / Power to the cab
  • Thread Starter
#13  
575's really hold their value. I sold mine for what I paid for it actually and no quibbling either. Sold it on Tractor House in 3 days. Mine had all the options, hydraulic tongue swing, extra sweep pickup and knotter blowers as well. Always kept inside too. I keep all my tractors and hay tools inside all year.

I will warn you about one thing and that is, if you are selling small squares to horsey people, be very careful about how much preservative you apply because it will impart a chemical smell to the hay if over applied and horsey people have good smellers. Myself, I'd never bale at 20% relative and my 575 as well as my round bailer has/have the Delmhorst slipper shoes in the bale chamber and feed table that gives me an ongoing and continuous moisture reading to the digital readout in the cab plus I can set the maximum relative moisture to whatever value I want and it will alarm if I go over that preset number. Delmhorst moisture meters are not cheap but Delmhorst is the recognized leader in moisture monitoring, plus I can unplug mine and use it to check the moisture of windrows or take a sample of forage and put in a plastic bucket and probe it for RM as well.

One thing I believe in and that is, you have to invest in the necessary tools to make sure your crop isn't going to spoil. Good rule of thumb for me as far as RM is concerned besides the Delmhorst is, I watch the bailer as I'm bailing and if it's producing at least some chaff, it should be ok far as moisture content. That don't apply to bailing wheat straw however and I only bale wheat straw after it's been rained on because the rain washes off the wax coating and makes the wheat straw much more absorbent for animal bedding. I used to square bale entire wheat fields for the local road board. Talk about a boring job, but it paid really well and it was no touch as well. Their employees picked them up and hauled them away. All I ever did was keep the twine box full and drive. I believe the most I ever ran in one day was 4200 squares and that was from dawn until dark, just stopping the replenish the twine balls and take a leak and eat a sandwich which I did on the fly. I charged them 35 cents a bale so you do the math. My big issue with the 575 was how it tossed me around when making headland turns. That packer box had a ton of inertia even with my heavy tractors. I don't miss any of it in reality. Computer driven round baling for me is light years easier and all I have to do is change net rolls infrequently. Everything from bale density to number of wraps of net is computer controlled, I just watch the screen in the cab to make sure I'm evenly filling the bale chamber and the machine tells me when it's time to eject a bale and rounds are so much less labor for me plus I don't have to find help to load the barn loft anymore either.

Small squares to me are a ton of work for not a lot of financial reward for the work done and I have only one customer and he buys all of it and has for over 5 years now. he drops his semi trailers, I load them, he secures them and off they go.

Right now he's lusting for my alfalfa second cut. I had rain issues this year and was unable to get an early first so it will only be 2 cuts this year unless I do a winter cut, which I may depending on how it grows. I've harvested my best hay in December and even January here. So long as there is no snow on it, it dries down fine.

Alfalfa is touchy anyway. I cut it using the wide thin swath attachment on my discbine and then let sit for a couple days and then windrow it with my Kuhn Masterdrive twin head rotary rake, let it sit another day and bale it up. I do it entirely by myself and I'm 74. The issue with alfalfa is, the more you disturb it by raking or tedding, the more it suffers from leaf loss. I have a 4 star tedder as well that never leaves the barn. I should sell it as I never use it and I bought it new.
It sounds like you have tons of experience. I am nowhere near that level in volume or knowledge. I bale 10 to 20 acres a year for my own sheep. Mostly grass, some alfalfa, and I’m seeding in some trefoil.

If I didn’t bail at 20% moisture, sometimes, it would be all stems by the time we had reliable drying weather. My hair was ready to go at the end of May this year with the mild winter and by the time we got close to decent weather, it was middle of June. 4 feet high and lots of stems. I use that when the sheep don’t have high nutritional needs
 
   / Power to the cab #14  
Had the same issue as you on 1st cut. Too much rain at the wrong times and it got what I term 'rank' or lots of stems and few leaves but I still sold it as everyone here was in the same boat. I had to reduce the per bale price a little but I did that just because and I didn't really have to but I like being fair to my customer. I just cut it high and then ran the shredder over it to bring what was still standing down. Coming in just peach now with the alfalfa really coming on. Just need some precip and according to NWS, that will be today or tomorrow. It's looking like rain right now actually.

I'd like a nice gentle soaker to incorporate the liquid urea I sprayed on after I shredded it. That along with 24DB to kill off the broadleaf that always seems to come up no matter how careful I am but 24DB handles that quite nicely and Alfalfa is not impacted by it at all so long as you apply it at the proper dilution ratio. I mix mine in with the liquid Urea I apply. Sure does kill off any broadleaf however. Probably let this crop go until September or until the alfalfa just starts to loose it's blossoms and then cut it with the crimp rolls set pretty tight (depending on the weather of course) and I may be able to get a winter cut as well, if there is no snowpack that is. That is always a crapshoot however. One thing about it is, my customer will take whatever I give him, no matter when I cut it, so long as it don't get rained on and left laying before bailing. He don't want pismuckle brown forage and I cannot blame him actually. If I was a steer, I'd not want to eat hay that was brown and smelled like stale tobacco either.

If you are feeding sheep, be extra careful with preservative as they have even more sensitive noses. Thought you were selling it, not using it, my mistake. Sounds to me like you need to go to round bales and either buy or build a Klene style feeder. They are entirely off the ground so the forage never gets wet (they have a roof on them) and I copied their design and built my own actually, when we had horses and cattle and I sold them when we quit raising the cattle and horses. Nice thing about the Klene design is the side bars that fold in as they consume a bale plus they can only get a mouthfull at a time so it basically eliminates any wasted hay. Easy to build as well and the roof's keep the forage dry and it never gets peed on or moldy. if you can stick weld and have a power bandsaw, you can build them. No rocket science involved.

I actually cut my hay usage by 50% versus just feeding them on the ground.
 

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