Crank no start - 2002 Branson 3520

[danpalka243]

Hi, I have a crank no start issue with my tractor. I’ve had issues with air in the system before when I’ve let it get too low on fuel. This time, full tank, went to start tractor and it only cranks. I replaced the fuel pump for good measure as it was older.

Before I replaced it, I had my dad crank while I bled at the injectors (nothing at either of the three). We have fuel from the tank, pump, filter, and to the injector pump. Not sure why it’s not making its way all the way up. Going to try and crank with the new pump today and see if there’s fuel at the injectors after bleeding. Any help is appreciated!

 

[Zork]

Hi, I have a crank no start issue with my tractor. I’ve had issues with air in the system before when I’ve let it get too low on fuel. This time, full tank, went to start tractor and it only cranks. I replaced the fuel pump for good measure as it was older.

Before I replaced it, I had my dad crank while I bled at the injectors (nothing at either of the three). We have fuel from the tank, pump, filter, and to the injector pump. Not sure why it’s not making its way all the way up. Going to try and crank with the new pump today and see if there’s fuel at the injectors after bleeding. Any help is appreciated!

There is a banjo bolt on the fuel line at the IP and I have used this to bleed air. Listen to the sound of your fuel pump, is it slow/fast and does it sound light and raspy or heavy and solid? My pump runs real fast and sounds light and raspy when I initially turn the key on, then in a second or two it slows a bit and sounds heavy and solid-as it fills with fuel and satisfies. The stock pump on my 2004 has very tight tolerances and the slightest debris slows or stops it, causing a stall/no start- When I changed my pump, I put a clear auto filter before mine to prevent that from happening again. You may not have enough volume of fuel. If I remember correctly, there is also a return line at the last injector. Once you bleed the banjo bolt you should get fuel up to the injectors, but you might have to loosen a bit and move the injector pipe just enough so the air comes out.

 

[danpalka243]

Thank you for the reply. The new pump sounds good and solid after a few seconds. I did have my wife crank the tractor while I bled at the injector pump. And it started right away thankfully. The info you shared is helpful for me in the future should I have repeat issues. Thanks!

 

[Zork]

I forgot, my '04 has a fuel cut off solenoid that sounds like a sharp clunk noise when I turn the key on. If that is not moving the IP lever to open/run/on position, you won't get any fuel to the injectors. Yours probably has one also. I hope this helps, keep us posted.

 

[bernardcuziillo]

Glad you got it running. My suggestion would have been to bleed at full throttle with the injector lines disconnected. They don't say that in the manuals.

 

[Rtintwo]

Is this a repeat problem?

 

[danpalka243]

It’s a repeat problem for me. I just started it no problem this morning, then went to start it 15 minutes later and nothing. I’ll try opening up the injectors and bleed at full throttle. The solenoid you guys talked about is that right by the Injector pump? Pretty big looking?

 

[danpalka243]

Glad you got it running. My suggestion would have been to bleed at full throttle with the injector lines disconnected. They don't say that in the manuals.

Do you disconnect at the injectors or at the pump?

 

[LouNY]

I don't believe that you have a bleeding problem. To start good one time then not start just a little bit later sounds more like the fuel shutoff not working or a different fuel issue.

 

[bernardcuziillo]

I wouldn't rule out air entrainment. Mine got worse; everyday I have to bleed it to start. And from the manual linked below, "The most usual place for air to enter the fuel system is between the inlet of the lift pump and the suction tube in
the tank." Fuel shut off can be an external lever, solenoid actuated. Or it can be an internal solenoid with no external moving parts. Still others can be just a reverse throw of the throttle. Check the service manual for your tractor.

10-20 Series service manual.pdf

drive.google.com

 

[Zork]

... The solenoid you guys talked about is that right by the Injector pump? Pretty big looking?

Yes. Yours should be an exterior solenoid with some sort of linkage going to the IP. There are plenty of photos here in our Branny group

 

[bernardcuziillo]

Do you disconnect at the injectors or at the pump?

You don't actually need to disconnect the high pressure lines. Just bleed up to the fuel filter or wherever your engine's designated bleed point is. From that point on, the fuel system will clear itself of air, and it will go fastest at full throttle.

On the fuel cut setup, it's different with various injection pumps. For example, the Branson 7845 uses an external solenoid connected to a crank and shaft that goes inside its Motorpal inline injection pump. The 4520 has a distributor pump with an internal solenoid for fuel cut. Many decades ago, I was a mechanic on a fleet of Diamler D309 buses whose inline Bosch injection pump's rack had a fuel shutoff position.

 

[danpalka243]

Tomorrow I’m going to do a bench test of the solenoid. Should be able to use a battery to test it from what I’ve seen. Any other ideas on how to test it? Just figure I should see the plunger go in and out with this test. Here’s the solenoid:

 

[thepumpguysc]

if that solenoid has 3 wires:
Black is ground-
Red is hold, low amps.
White is pull in, hi amps.

Do not make the mistake of running the solenoid w a “hot wire” to the WHITE wire.
It’ll burn up the solenoid in short order.!!
Good luck

 

[Zork]

Tomorrow I’m going to do a bench test of the solenoid. Should be able to use a battery to test it from what I’ve seen. Any other ideas on how to test it? Just figure I should see the plunger go in and out with this test. Here’s the solenoid:

You don't need to remove it to test it. Just watch the solenoid when you turn on the key. The tip of your solenoid appears modified/welded. Maybe the solenoid is an aftermarket mod without the proper throw or pull. Your IP lever appears dry and possibly the welded "nut" and the linkage bend is binding on the IP lever.

 

[danpalka243]

You don't need to remove it to test it. Just watch the solenoid when you turn on the key. The tip of your solenoid appears modified/welded. Maybe the solenoid is an aftermarket mod without the proper throw or pull. Your IP lever appears dry and possibly the welded "nut" and the linkage bend is binding on the IP lever.
View attachment 878684View attachment 878685

When I turn the key it moves out and then back in right away.

 

[LouNY]

I would expect it to retract with power applied.
You can also operate your tractor by disconnecting the solenoid and manually operating the lever.
One way to start and work, then the other to shutdown.

 

[Zork]

When I turn the key it moves out and then back in right away.

If the solenoid moves out with power on I suspect that opens the fuel valve. Now, there is also a "hold" circuit to prevent the extended linkage from retracting until the key is turned off. If the solenoid opens the fuel valve with extended stroke on power on, then retracts quickly and closes the fuel valve, I would suspect the hold circuit/fuse or hold mechanism in the solenoid has failed.

 

[danpalka243]

Great point, I actually just watched the shutoff and noticed it wasn’t opening all the way. Problem solved. Must be the linkage I’m thinking. Thank you for everyone’s help

 

[thepumpguysc]

I was just getting ready to leave those instructions..
The solenoid HAS TO BOTTOM OUT INSIDE THE CASE.. and is adjustable with the nut..
If u need further instructions..on how to.. just ask.
Good luck