DIY septic tank and drain field?

[paulsharvey]

I Think the debate isn't about self permitting, but just skipping permitting at all. I wouldn't be too worried about doing that, as long as you don't plan on selling. Odds of them find it are low (the addition might show up on aerials for property taxes, but normally the property tax people aren't the permits people). What will they do if they do find it? Maybe something, upto condemning the home? Maybe nothing. The septic alone, go for it, it's underground, and noone will ever know.

How about just self permitting the addition as a office, and closet. Then once finaled out, then install toilet/sink in the 'closet', and hard to tell a bedroom from an office. Office shouldn't trigger additional septic capacity, that's based on bedrooms.

 

[JJT]

Permit fee here is $50. I've done several by myself, using an engineered plan. The fine if done without a permit - $5 plus the permit fee of $50. And you'll need to have an engineer sign off that it was done properly.

No short cuts, they will bite you in the a$$.

 

[gstrom99]

Can you, of coarse, the theory is very simple, it flows down hill. Should you, that's not a decision for us. I would just ask, any plans on selling? If not, I doubt anyone will ever know.

I put in a DIY, at my hunting land for a camper/trailer. It was two 55 gal plastic drums, plumbed correctly with a regular "field" too. It worked perfect, for the small amount it was used.
I took it all out (camper too) when it came time to sell the place since one of the items on the "checklist" was - "any underground tanks?". I didn't want to worry about any legal issues at sale time...

If the building is still there when selling, and there is an "unapproved" septic, that's a problem IMHO.

 

[paulsharvey]

Yeah, I'm not saying OP 'should' just do it, but im also not saying he 'shouldn't'; only that he can. If anyone really Reads all the local permitting requirements, I guarantee you've done work that requires permits, but not got them. Anything structural, like exterior door or window, 100% require a permit, water heater, possibly a plumbed dishwasher or ice maker; roof repairs over 400 sq ft, etc Heck, a fence, excluding an agricultural wire fence, with a top board. Sheds over 144 sq ft, above ground pools, etc. I'm not gonna condem someone I'd they don't permit (as I'm off the clock; on the clock, I am required to condemn them...)

If you Choose to go without a permit, I would still try to do it right. Also, many permit agencies don't hold records beyond 7 years (more in some cases); so, if it is done right, and you go to sell in 15 years, it's entirely possible noone would ever know that it wasn't permitted; and additionally, if they can't date the improvement, it's hard for then to prove it wasn't either part of the original, or an old existing grandfathered in system.

All that said, if you can get the permit cheaply, yourself, and self perform, u would go that route.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would be Far more leary of the addition than the septic, as far as unpermitted work; and unfortunately, the building permit for the addition would trigger a review by health department, if it shows a bed room.

 

[Jstpssng]

Also, many permit agencies don't hold records beyond 7 years (more in some cases); so, if it is done right, and you go to sell in 15 years, it's entirely possible noone would ever know that it wasn't permitted

Maine has a registry going back 50 years or so of all permitted systems. When I was trying to find one for the flush my father put in at the greenhouse, I came across the site plan and permit for the system he put in when they took over my grandfather's house in 1979.
Nothing for the greenhouse though, which reduces the value when we go to sell it.

 

[paulsharvey]

BTW, as far as i know, everywhere, the number of bathrooms has no affect on sizing spetic, as bathrooms don't cause increase in waste water, it's based on bedrooms, or basically occupants.

 

[paulsharvey]

If we assume the question boils down to 'if I have no inspections, but want to build a function septic system'; it can be as simple as digging a good level pit, about 24" min below the invert of the inlet; pouring a concrete floor, bricking up the walls, casting a simple lid, and wrapped perf pipe drain; heck, it could be an IBC tote, and simple perf pipe; many many ways to make it work.

Most septic systems ages ago were bricked; then it went to precast, then polymer; drain fields went from butt to butt clay tile pipes, to unwrapped perf pipe, to pipe and peanut, to pipe arch. Most of the changes were for ease of install; not 100% performance. All of the simple gravity systems work; but some leach fields are better at resisting root infiltration. You will want a baffle of some kinda to keep solids from entering the field.

There are also spray systems, lagoon systems, ect; as well as of coarse pump and mound ststems; I would Avoud any of those;

 

[EddieWalker]

Before I spent the time and money on a second septic system, I would try really hard to figure out a way to tap into the existing system. I've done a lot of remodel jobs that the home owners told me that the toilets couldn't be moved because of where the septic tank was, or it was too far, or I had to go through concrete. So far, I've never had a job where I couldn't make it work with what was already there.

 

[paulsharvey]

Before I spent the time and money on a second septic system, I would try really hard to figure out a way to tap into the existing system. I've done a lot of remodel jobs that the home owners told me that the toilets couldn't be moved because of where the septic tank was, or it was too far, or I had to go through concrete. So far, I've never had a job where I couldn't make it work with what was already there.

Eddie is 100% correct; based on the info our OP says; he wants to add a large bedroom and bathroom, but it doesn't sound like he is adding occupants. From strictly a permitting side, they would probably require upsizing; but in reality, if the existing system functions, and your not Actually adding, it will continue to function fine.

If you permit the addition, can you label the existing bedroom as 'storage, or dinning, or office, lounge, whatever', and keep bedroom total unchanged, allowing no change to septic?

Also; can anyone confirm, is it totally SQ FT of bedrooms, sq ft of living space, or number of bedrooms, that dictates sizing?

 

[paulsharvey]

BTW, I've never heard of semi annual maintenance inspections of a septic system or anything else, other than storm retention, fire protection, and backflow preventers.

 

[paulsharvey]

Not to beat a dead horse; but to clarify, if permitting is just an annoying matter of jumping through hoops, reading several regs/spec books and spending $100; and then calling inspections; 100%, do that. If permitting is a matter of 'you use my brother in laws company, or you don't get a permit' that's a different story.

 

[Jstpssng]

Any time that Eddie tunes in on a topic about construction, I reaccess any of my viewpoints which don't align with his.

 

[EddieWalker]

There isn't any building code or inspections outside of the City Limits here in Texas. If you have ten acres or more, there isn't anything that's required for a septic system. Build what you want and live with how it performs.

Does the OP have similar laws where he's at?

 

[4570Man]

There isn't any building code or inspections outside of the City Limits here in Texas. If you have ten acres or more, there isn't anything that's required for a septic system. Build what you want and live with how it performs.

Does the OP have similar laws where he's at?

Nobody drives around and checks here. If you do a decent job that doesn’t spill sewer on the ground you’d be extremely unlikely to get caught. The downside is they usually look for a septic permit when you sell the place. If you went to sell it you would very likely have to have a licensed installer redo it with a permit.

 

[grsthegreat]

Here in Texas, it's very common to do your own septic system. When I spoke to the Country Health Inspector, he told me that I had to have ten acres of land, or more, and that I was responsible for all repairs to it.

Home Depot sells septic tanks here. They have them sitting out in their parking lot, and if you want one, you need to buy it right away, because they sell them pretty quickly. When I bought mine, Norwesco 1000 Gal. 2 MH 2 CPT Septic Tank 44474 - The Home Depot, they had just received a new deliver of three big 1,000 gallon tanks, and three 500 gallon tanks. I went there the next week and they where all sold out!!!! But they always get more.

Installing the tank is pretty easy. I did it by myself. Just dig the hole big enough to be able to get in there and level it off really good at the depth you want it. I think the shovel work at getting it super flat was the hardest part. The tank isn't very heavy, I hooked it to my backhoe with a chain and lowered it into the hole.

To get to my leach field, I used Schedule 40 PVC. Same thing I used going from my house to the tank. Thin wall PVC is also used by some people, but Schedule 40 is so much stronger that I feel it's worth the extra money.

MY leach field is shaped kind of like the letter E. The line from the tank goes to the middle of the E, then it splits and heads out to three separate lines that are about ten feet apart. Home Depot and Lowes both sell all the stuff you need to make your own leach field. NDS 4 in. x 10 ft. EZ-Drain Prefabricated French Drain with Pipe EZ-0802F - The Home Depot

On my house, I have all my drain lines going into my tank, but I've worked on a bunch of houses here that have a Grey line going out into their landscaping. Showers and bathtub water probably shouldn't go into a septic tank, it dilutes the solids too much and slows down the process of breaking them down, but I didn't understand that when I built my house. If I could go back in time, I would have a separate Grey line

yeiks....here, homeowners can do their own, but there really picky about the install. hard not to get dinged by inspectors. we use 2 piece plastic 1000 gallon units here, cost about $1,400 each. but everyone

HAS to get prior approval and perc tests submitted to county health district first

 

[WM75Guy]

I would look at options to connect to the existing septic system. We just added a sink to our shop. The plumber dug a hole and installed a sump tank with grinder pump. It pumps about 100' through a 2" line to the septic system for our stables. We could add a toilet in the future if needed, but there are 3 bathrooms in the house and one in the stables, all within quick walking distance.

 

[grsthegreat]

here, they view tank and field size against the number of bedrooms and bathrooms. and peculation test results.

i do the electrical for a guy that installs very intricate systems to use on lake front property. some consist of 3 x 1000 gallon tanks and sand filters. plus positive pressure drip systems. the control side sucks

 

[lilranch2001]

Nice looking panel, do you build them or do you purchase them completed?

 

[grsthegreat]

half and half. lots of field wiring and i have to program