DIY septic tank and drain field?

[paulsharvey]

I Think the debate isn't about self permitting, but just skipping permitting at all. I wouldn't be too worried about doing that, as long as you don't plan on selling. Odds of them find it are low (the addition might show up on aerials for property taxes, but normally the property tax people aren't the permits people). What will they do if they do find it? Maybe something, upto condemning the home? Maybe nothing. The septic alone, go for it, it's underground, and noone will ever know.

How about just self permitting the addition as a office, and closet. Then once finaled out, then install toilet/sink in the 'closet', and hard to tell a bedroom from an office. Office shouldn't trigger additional septic capacity, that's based on bedrooms.

 

[JJT]

Permit fee here is $50. I've done several by myself, using an engineered plan. The fine if done without a permit - $5 plus the permit fee of $50. And you'll need to have an engineer sign off that it was done properly.

No short cuts, they will bite you in the a$$.

 

[gstrom99]

Can you, of coarse, the theory is very simple, it flows down hill. Should you, that's not a decision for us. I would just ask, any plans on selling? If not, I doubt anyone will ever know.

I put in a DIY, at my hunting land for a camper/trailer. It was two 55 gal plastic drums, plumbed correctly with a regular "field" too. It worked perfect, for the small amount it was used.
I took it all out (camper too) when it came time to sell the place since one of the items on the "checklist" was - "any underground tanks?". I didn't want to worry about any legal issues at sale time...

If the building is still there when selling, and there is an "unapproved" septic, that's a problem IMHO.

 

[paulsharvey]

Yeah, I'm not saying OP 'should' just do it, but im also not saying he 'shouldn't'; only that he can. If anyone really Reads all the local permitting requirements, I guarantee you've done work that requires permits, but not got them. Anything structural, like exterior door or window, 100% require a permit, water heater, possibly a plumbed dishwasher or ice maker; roof repairs over 400 sq ft, etc Heck, a fence, excluding an agricultural wire fence, with a top board. Sheds over 144 sq ft, above ground pools, etc. I'm not gonna condem someone I'd they don't permit (as I'm off the clock; on the clock, I am required to condemn them...)

If you Choose to go without a permit, I would still try to do it right. Also, many permit agencies don't hold records beyond 7 years (more in some cases); so, if it is done right, and you go to sell in 15 years, it's entirely possible noone would ever know that it wasn't permitted; and additionally, if they can't date the improvement, it's hard for then to prove it wasn't either part of the original, or an old existing grandfathered in system.

All that said, if you can get the permit cheaply, yourself, and self perform, u would go that route.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would be Far more leary of the addition than the septic, as far as unpermitted work; and unfortunately, the building permit for the addition would trigger a review by health department, if it shows a bed room.

 

[Jstpssng]

Also, many permit agencies don't hold records beyond 7 years (more in some cases); so, if it is done right, and you go to sell in 15 years, it's entirely possible noone would ever know that it wasn't permitted

Maine has a registry going back 50 years or so of all permitted systems. When I was trying to find one for the flush my father put in at the greenhouse, I came across the site plan and permit for the system he put in when they took over my grandfather's house in 1979.
Nothing for the greenhouse though, which reduces the value when we go to sell it.

 

[paulsharvey]

BTW, as far as i know, everywhere, the number of bathrooms has no affect on sizing spetic, as bathrooms don't cause increase in waste water, it's based on bedrooms, or basically occupants.

 

[paulsharvey]

If we assume the question boils down to 'if I have no inspections, but want to build a function septic system'; it can be as simple as digging a good level pit, about 24" min below the invert of the inlet; pouring a concrete floor, bricking up the walls, casting a simple lid, and wrapped perf pipe drain; heck, it could be an IBC tote, and simple perf pipe; many many ways to make it work.

Most septic systems ages ago were bricked; then it went to precast, then polymer; drain fields went from butt to butt clay tile pipes, to unwrapped perf pipe, to pipe and peanut, to pipe arch. Most of the changes were for ease of install; not 100% performance. All of the simple gravity systems work; but some leach fields are better at resisting root infiltration. You will want a baffle of some kinda to keep solids from entering the field.

There are also spray systems, lagoon systems, ect; as well as of coarse pump and mound ststems; I would Avoud any of those;

 

[EddieWalker]

Before I spent the time and money on a second septic system, I would try really hard to figure out a way to tap into the existing system. I've done a lot of remodel jobs that the home owners told me that the toilets couldn't be moved because of where the septic tank was, or it was too far, or I had to go through concrete. So far, I've never had a job where I couldn't make it work with what was already there.

 

[paulsharvey]

Before I spent the time and money on a second septic system, I would try really hard to figure out a way to tap into the existing system. I've done a lot of remodel jobs that the home owners told me that the toilets couldn't be moved because of where the septic tank was, or it was too far, or I had to go through concrete. So far, I've never had a job where I couldn't make it work with what was already there.

Eddie is 100% correct; based on the info our OP says; he wants to add a large bedroom and bathroom, but it doesn't sound like he is adding occupants. From strictly a permitting side, they would probably require upsizing; but in reality, if the existing system functions, and your not Actually adding, it will continue to function fine.

If you permit the addition, can you label the existing bedroom as 'storage, or dinning, or office, lounge, whatever', and keep bedroom total unchanged, allowing no change to septic?

Also; can anyone confirm, is it totally SQ FT of bedrooms, sq ft of living space, or number of bedrooms, that dictates sizing?