1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons

/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons
  • Thread Starter
#101  
If you have that kind of money to spend and have a good dealer nearby, Yanmar is the real gold standard. Kubota has more dealers, but if all else was equal in this size range, I'd buy the Yanmar with the proprietary transmission.
The proprietary transmissions are only available on the YM359 models and the YT347 and YT359 so unfortunately none of the models I would need would have that.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #102  
I've had both hydro and shuttle tractors. Prefer Hydro for loader work, prefer shuttle for mowing, ground engaged, 3pt work.
I've had 2 shuttle shift tractors and the newest HST I find easier to use for nearly every task. Probably the easiest for first time owner too as it operates like a ride on mower
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #103  
HST is superior for loader work and rear blade type work when you do a lot of back and forth.. Though you can get by just fine with a shuttle transmission. The trick with the shuttle is to use your gas pedal to compensate when going back and forth.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #104  
That’s what I like to hear!
That being said, majority of my work would just be around the house and in the woods. I don’t think I may ever really be using it for field work or at least not in the next 5 years. Still would pick the shuttle?
For me, it's close to being a coin toss.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #105  
As of now, I’m leaning VERY heavily towards the YM342 over the YT235. The 342 is about $1k cheaper and already has the suspension seat, 1 rear remote, and extendable lower link arms, not to mention the 342 is about 1,000 lbs heavier and the loader can lift nearly double that of the YT235. For an “economy” tractor, seems like it has a good bit of bells and whistles.

My main concern is that the 342 has a shuttle shift. I’ve only driven a HST tractor in the past (only twice so still not much experience). If I’m doing 50/50 loader and 3 pt work, will the synchronized shuttle shift be a disadvantage?? I plan to go drive both but can’t get out there during tax season.
I will say that I do know how to drive manual vehicles and I actually like to do so. Just don’t know how precise I can get with the shuttle shift trying to unload something out the back of a truck or trailer.
I had a old style YM Yanmar with their old YM "power shift" .... It required a full stop to shift ranges, but it had a three forward speeds and one reverse within any single range. It sounds like the new YMs are 8 speeds...with forward and reverse in each speed. That is a lot better configuration because for loader use you often want the same forward and reverse gear ratio. Shifting on the old YM was done with one finger and without lifting your hand from the steering wheel. Make sure the new one is as well. One finger shuttle shift on the steering wheel is the way to go. Much better than having the shuttle on the dash or by your side. Clutching the shuttle was done on the same control by simply "feathering" the lever - that is another feature that we hope they retained. With a shuttleshift, the foot throttle is used to control speed in gears as well as the power. That works well. Shuttle is a huge advantage over their traditional manual shift tractors. A lot of our work was 3pt attachments with blades and mower and tillers. The shuttle is the perfect transmission for that. For loader work it is nice and works a lot faster than a manual shift.

Now we have a newer Kubota with HST. For strictly loader work - for any type of delicate back and forth work I had thought our older YM power/shuttle was perfection ... until I tried the HST. The HST is simply better for loader work. Keep in mind I've never used an I-MHT tranny. It could be better yet.

There is certainly nothing wrong with a shuttle for loader work and it is a thousand percent better than doing loader work with the old gear shift and foot clutch ... it is just that the HST is better at the same game. But HST has downsides... I'll point out a few.
Downside are that the HST does soak up noticibly more power, and there is also this oddity with HST that there are times when lugging hard when a HST has to reduce throttle because doing reducing throttle also lowers the HST gearing.. Study up if you want to know why.

So it is possible sometimes that you can stall a HST until you stop and shift to a lower range, where in the same situation even a dufus like me can get a downshift a shuttle or gear type to just power on through while adding throttle. And HST has a distinct hydraulic whine that gears and shuttles do not. Plus HST required a more active operator when doing constant load at a constant speed work like plowing or tilling.
HST is best when you are constantly making small changes and are in the midrange of power use...which is where you are and should be for most of the time.

Sounds like you have time to make a choice. Get down there and drive them some. That will also let the dealer get to realize you are serious and you might be surprised at what he can come up with.

Try a similare size Kubota with the HST PLUS tranny if you get a chance. It has a comination of HST and Shuttle advantage. Basically like a 6 speed HST.

The difference in PTO power you mentioned on the Yanmars seems real, and my thought is it reflects the difference in the motors. If in doubt, I would believe the PTO specs over engine HP specs.

rScotty
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #106  
That’s what I like to hear!
That being said, majority of my work would just be around the house and in the woods. I don’t think I may ever really be using it for field work or at least not in the next 5 years. Still would pick the shuttle?
Another 2 cents worth, if the shuttle is clutch less for fwd/reverse, it’ll be fine. Ones I’ve used you have to throttle up/down when shifting. Running a clutch all day gets tiring.
HST is more user friendly, select range then fwd or reverse. Hst does need a “cruise control” option to make mowing, plowing, etc more user friendly. Without the “cruise control” you have to keep your foot on the fwd/reverse to keep moving.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #107  
I’m in the market for a 35 HP tractor and I’ve done a lot of research as a first time buyer.

The tractor will mostly being used for dirt work around the house (2 flat acres) and lifting items with the FEL. I also have 100 acres of hunting property to brush hog roads/shooting lanes, and plant about 5 acres of food plots.

Dealers seem to be a hot topic when it comes to tractors so I’ve narrowed it down to these, their time selling the tractors and distance from me.

YT235 - 2 dealers (1 has been selling Yanmar for 8 years and is 25 miles away, they only sale yanmar products). Other one is 40 miles away, didn’t get details on selling time

Kioti ck3520SE - 27 miles away, only been selling Kioti for 8 months.

Kubota L3302 (or L3902) - 2 dealerships within 20 miles. Been selling as long as I can remember.

Anyone have any experiences with these tractors, part availability, etc? I’d be doing as much repair work myself as possible.
I think you answered your own question... Kubota. I buy my tractors and hay tools entirely based on dealer reputation and distance from me to them. For me that is Kubota. I'd say for you as well.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #108  
Most times, buying on price alone, in the end will leave you with the 'morning after' taste in your mouth simply because the low ball dealer will also be a low ball service entity.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons
  • Thread Starter
#109  
Another 2 cents worth, if the shuttle is clutch less for fwd/reverse, it’ll be fine. Ones I’ve used you have to throttle up/down when shifting. Running a clutch all day gets tiring.
HST is more user friendly, select range then fwd or reverse. Hst does need a “cruise control” option to make mowing, plowing, etc more user friendly. Without the “cruise control” you have to keep your foot on the fwd/reverse to keep moving.
The only thing I see on the YM342 brochure is that the main clutch is “Dry single” and the main shifter and reverser are synchronized.

I’m assuming this means you need to clutch between changing any gears/directions and to shift between High and Low requires the tractor to be stopped while everything else can be done on the move
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #110  
The only thing I see on the YM342 brochure is that the main clutch is “Dry single” and the main shifter and reverser are synchronized.

I’m assuming this means you need to clutch between changing any gears/directions and to shift between High and Low requires the tractor to be stopped while everything else can be done on the move
In a shuttle or powershift the foot clutch is optional for driving. It is used when starting the tractor, to gradually engage the PTO, and also if you get hung up somehow and need to take the load off the drive train.

The whole point of a shuttle shift is that you don't have to clutch to go from forward to reverse - moving the fingertip lever actuates a hydraulic clutch pack next to the gear selected. It happens so fast it seems instantaneous, so normally you do it when moving slowly or you let off on the throttle for an instant when you shuttle to avoid being thrown forward or back in the seat. With a few minutes practice it becomes very smooth.

A power shift does the same thing in the same way using internal hydraulic clutches, but it is going from one ratio to the another instead of forward and back.

Traditionally, Yanmar and others have combined both functions. So you can go F/R in the same gear or do that while also changing to a different ratio. Smoothly.... and without stopping or using the foot clutch.

Again traditionally, in all tractor transmissions - including HST - you do have to completely stop when you change ranges. It wouldn't surprise me if the new YM series Yanmars have two ranges - high & low - with four forward and four reverse speeds in each range. That is close to how the old YM series power shift shuttle worked, but better.

rScotty
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #111  
In a shuttle or powershift the foot clutch is optional for driving. It is used when starting the tractor, to gradually engage the PTO, and also if you get hung up somehow and need to take the load off the drive train.

The whole point of a shuttle shift is that you don't have to clutch to go from forward to reverse - moving the fingertip lever actuates a hydraulic clutch pack next to the gear selected. It happens so fast it seems instantaneous, so normally you do it when moving slowly or you let off on the throttle for an instant when you shuttle to avoid being thrown forward or back in the seat. With a few minutes practice it becomes very smooth.
Power reverser type transmissions don't require the clutch to forward/reverse
Shuttle shifts do require the clutch to forward/reverse or to shift gears.
I have an 8 forward 8 reverse synchronized shuttle, the clutch is required to forward/reverse
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #112  
Power reverser type transmissions don't require the clutch to forward/reverse
Shuttle shifts do require the clutch to forward/reverse or to shift gears.
I have an 8 forward 8 reverse synchronized shuttle, the clutch is required to forward/reverse

Well, it isn't the same for all.

I've never heard of a shuttle that needs clutching. It would seem to kind of defeat the purpose. But there you are, and you own one called by Kioti? as a "syncronized shuttle"...and it needs clutching. That doesn't make Kioti's requirement for clutching universal.
My wife's YM336 Yanmar worked differently, and our old 3020 JD worked differently too (picture below), and our newer JD works differently from both. It doesn't even have a foot clutch. Yet all of those were shuttle and power shift combos.

The confusion is one we've seen before. There just doesn't seem to be a standard terminology for that type of geared transmission using a hydraulically powered shifter and clutch. That problem with how to describe something happens a lot in mechanics. Kubota calls their version the "Glide Shift". It seems to depend a lot on how a manufacturer - or their advertising translators - decide to describe the features of their own version of power/shuttle shifters.

What's more important to me is how how a particuar system works in a particular brand or model. Simply calling it a name doesn't mean much when different brands use the same wording to mean different things. In the posts in this thread I was comparing YM model Yanmars from generations 40 years apart to help the OP understand what to expect from that sort of transmission. It wouldn't surprise me if there were different models in between that worked differently.
rScotty


Screenshot 2024-01-25 at 7.54.10 PM.png
 
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/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #113  
My Kubota L3010 GST (34hp) is a Glide Shift Transmission. I can change gears and direction without clutching
My New Holland T2310 (40hp) is a shuttle transmission. I have to push in the clutch to change gears or direction.

It would be good if the OP could play in a dirt pile at the dealership with the hydro and shuttle.

I still think it's a coin toss

Smaller hydro - easier to use, better for loader work

Larger shuttle - Heavier, more powerful, more capable for tasks other than loader work
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #114  
My Kubota L3010 GST (34hp) is a Glide Shift Transmission. I can change gears and direction without clutching
My New Holland T2310 (40hp) is a shuttle transmission. I have to push in the clutch to change gears or direction.

It would be good if the OP could play in a dirt pile at the dealership with the hydro and shuttle.

I still think it's a coin toss

Smaller hydro - easier to use, better for loader work

Larger shuttle - Heavier, more powerful, more capable for tasks other than loader work
If you had to choose one, which would it be?
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #115  
1706240804883.jpeg
34hp hydro

1706240871994.jpeg
40hp shuttle

80% of my use is rough cut mowing, road maintenance, snow blowing, etc.

20% is loader work

Love my 40hp shuttle

Like i said probably a coin toss for the OP,

That YM342 is a lot of bang for the buck, and I'd be tempted, but the OP would be thrilled with either.

(edit update) If you would have asked me before I got my CUT, I would have told you I would do 50% loader work. In actuality, it is much less than that.
 
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/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #116  
When I read the original post I thought this post could have wriiten by me, my 110 acre hunting land is 150 miles from my home. I have a 1.2 acre food plot to mow the clover and to replant it about every third year. I also have 3 acres of trails through the woods to mow. Also have a 1/4 mile rock road to maintain. I have a 5 ft brush cutter, a 9 shank cultivator, a rear 6 ft blade, a 6 foot rock rake and a carryall. I actually did all my work with a 1960's gas Ford 2000 until a few years ago. The Ford handled everything easily except the cultivator. A few years ago i got a used Kubota L3400 Xtra power (35.5 HP) HST with a FEL and I do not think I could have made a better choice. The HST is a nice setup with a FEL. Good Luck!
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #117  
I’m in the market for a 35 HP tractor and I’ve done a lot of research as a first time buyer.

The tractor will mostly being used for dirt work around the house (2 flat acres) and lifting items with the FEL. I also have 100 acres of hunting property to brush hog roads/shooting lanes, and plant about 5 acres of food plots.

Dealers seem to be a hot topic when it comes to tractors so I’ve narrowed it down to these, their time selling the tractors and distance from me.

YT235 - 2 dealers (1 has been selling Yanmar for 8 years and is 25 miles away, they only sale yanmar products). Other one is 40 miles away, didn’t get details on selling time

Kioti ck3520SE - 27 miles away, only been selling Kioti for 8 months.

Kubota L3302 (or L3902) - 2 dealerships within 20 miles. Been selling as long as I can remember.

Anyone have any experiences with these tractors, part availability, etc? I’d be doing as much repair work myself as possible.
go kubota or a massey...they have more dealers around and have great service...35 hp is ok around the house but 40 to 45 and plus will take more punishment on the hunting brush hogging...(my experience)..
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #118  
View attachment 848677 34hp hydro

View attachment 848679 40hp shuttle

80% of my use is rough cut mowing, road maintenance, snow blowing, etc.

20% is loader work

Love my 40hp shuttle

Like i said probably a coin toss for the OP,

That YM342 is a lot of bang for the buck, and I'd be tempted, but the OP would be thrilled with either.

(edit update) If you would have asked me before I got my CUT, I would have told you I would do 50% loader work. In actuality, it is much less than that.
I just mix the two and have a larger hydro. I don't have a lot of open space, so shuttle is less useful. I got the turbo version to adjust for power drop at the PTO.
 
/ 1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons #119  
I’m in the market for a 35 HP tractor and I’ve done a lot of research as a first time buyer.

The tractor will mostly being used for dirt work around the house (2 flat acres) and lifting items with the FEL. I also have 100 acres of hunting property to brush hog roads/shooting lanes, and plant about 5 acres of food plots.

Dealers seem to be a hot topic when it comes to tractors so I’ve narrowed it down to these, their time selling the tractors and distance from me.

YT235 - 2 dealers (1 has been selling Yanmar for 8 years and is 25 miles away, they only sale yanmar products). Other one is 40 miles away, didn’t get details on selling time

Kioti ck3520SE - 27 miles away, only been selling Kioti for 8 months.

Kubota L3302 (or L3902) - 2 dealerships within 20 miles. Been selling as long as I can remember.

Anyone have any experiences with these tractors, part availability, etc? I’d be doing as much repair work myself as possible.
I've owned Ford, Kubota, David Brown (Case) in the past, but I have been well-pleased with my JD 2038R, with 72" mid-mount auto-connect drive-over mower deck and FEL. Fortunate to have a decent dealer nearby. May not be heavy enough for your needs; the 3 series or higher may be a better fit. I've found the old saying, "nothing runs like a Deere", to be true, at least in my experience. Cost-wise, that's another story. As others have said, more HP is better than not enough. As for cab, they are great, but not sure how practical working in trees. My two cents.
 

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