Yanmar YM1510D Camber & Toe Adjustment

[Jtullis13]

Hello everyone, its been a long time since I have been on here, but I am needing some help with how to adjust the toe and camber on my YM1510d. Do any of you have instructions on how to do this, pictures are always nice too. The tractors toe is "in" on both front wheels, and I believe it has a little "negative" camber. I will have to look at the camber again to make sure of that. I will try to take a picture if anyone is interested. I bought the tractor a little over 3 years ago, and that is how it was when I got it, I haven't used it much do to our fire and move, but need and would like to use it soon.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[ponytug]

Hello everyone, its been a long time since I have been on here, but I am needing some help with how to adjust the toe and camber on my YM1510d. Do any of you have instructions on how to do this, pictures are always nice too. The tractors toe is "in" on both front wheels, and I believe it has a little "negative" camber. I will have to look at the camber again to make sure of that. I will try to take a picture if anyone is interested. I bought the tractor a little over 3 years ago, and that is how it was when I got it, I haven't used it much do to our fire and move, but need and would like to use it soon.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Have you measured how much it is now, and do you know if any of the negative camber is due to wear, or slop, in the steering joints?

Photos help, too.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Jtullis13]

Peter I have not measured anything, to be honest I am not sure how to measure for that. I am unsure of the nature of the negative camber as well. There doesn't seem to be any slop in the steering joints from what I remember, but I will check today when I run out to the acreage and try to get some photos as well.

 

[MTGreen]

You sure it's negative camber? I think fronts are usually designed with some positive camber:

Tractor Positive Camber - Why?

Does anyone know why tractors are designed with such extreme positive camber (front wheels sloping out at the top, in at the bottom)? It seems that is the last thing one would want, considering the weight that the wheels have to support, especially with FEL work, not to mention that positive...

www.tractorbynet.com

Why so much positive camber ?

I have a Kubota L4200; from the first day I got it, I've wondered why it has so much positive camber on the front wheels. (I tend to notice these things since I was a front end mechanic in what seems like was a previous life). As measured from the middle of the tire's sidewall top to bottom, it...

www.tractorbynet.com

I think there's supposed to be a little toe in as well is my understanding from the FSM specs on tractors I've owned

 

[winston1]

4-8mm for toe in. I don't think camber is adjustable.

 

[Jtullis13]

I wasn’t able to get it started yesterday to move it and take pictures, it was -15 degrees and today is -4. I’m hoping to get pictures tomorrow

 

[ponytug]

Peter I have not measured anything, to be honest I am not sure how to measure for that. I am unsure of the nature of the negative camber as well. There doesn't seem to be any slop in the steering joints from what I remember, but I will check today when I run out to the acreage and try to get some photos as well.

Lots of examples on YouTube and elsewhere, but basically without moving the tractor, get rim to rim measurements, at the top and bottom (camber), and forward edge, rearward edge, or use a level with an adjustable angle finder to do the camber. Auto shops do toe-in off of the rims, by angle, but that's generally not practical on the farm; the string trick below makes toe-in pretty easy.

How To Do A Wheel Alignment At Home

While you could take your vehicle to a mechanic to have the alignment done, it's also possible to do it yourself at home with the right tools and some

tiregrades.com

All the best,

Peter

 

[Jtullis13]

Thanks Peter, I will have to watch that video again.

I didn’t see this until I got back home otherwise I would have taken some measurements. However I was able to get it started so I could move it and take pictures.

Let me know what you all think.

 

[Jtullis13]

The pictures don’t seem to show to much of the toe in, but when I’m on the tractor it appears to be worse.

 

[Jtullis13]

Here they are

 

[clemsonfor]

4-8mm for toe in. I don't think camber is adjustable.

I was going to say the same thing. I don't know how you can adjust camber? It's a king pin type setup but there is nothing to adjust on this.

 

[5030]

4-8mm for toe in. I don't think camber is adjustable.

It's not if it's front wheel assist. Camber is built into the outboard castings. Neither is castor.

 

[ponytug]

Here they are

From a couple thousand miles away, that camber doesn't look that out of whack to me, (but what do I know), though the toe-in isn't really visible... I would be more concerned if when you had a front wheel jacked up off the ground and could rattle it (bad bearing or kingpin wear).

Is there some tractor operation that leads you to think something is amiss? Normally, if the toe-in is badly off, you have tire scrubbing, hard turning, or if you have toe-out (the wheels are pointed out), no straight line control to speak of.

Basically, in a tractor both (slight) toe-in, and negative camber, gives a zone of stable operation, but too much of either when generates tire wear. Cars...well life is more complex due to performance and suspension factors, but generally the same until you get to race cars. Race cars and performance vehicles can have things like positive camber due to anticipated down force and other factors. Speed changes the tire shape/height, and potentially the load, affecting camber. Generally, as toe-out is unstable so it is used only in race cars for performance (hyper responsive steering).

All the best,

Peter

 

[Jtullis13]

From a couple thousand miles away, that camber doesn't look that out of whack to me, (but what do I know), though the toe-in isn't really visible... I would be more concerned if when you had a front wheel jacked up off the ground and could rattle it (bad bearing or kingpin wear).

Is there some tractor operation that leads you to think something is amiss? Normally, if the toe-in is badly off, you have tire scrubbing, hard turning, or if you have toe-out (the wheels are pointed out), no straight line control to speak of.

Basically, in a tractor both (slight) toe-in, and negative camber, gives a zone of stable operation, but too much of either when generates tire wear. Cars...well life is more complex due to performance and suspension factors, but generally the same until you get to race cars. Race cars and performance vehicles can have things like positive camber due to anticipated down force and other factors. Speed changes the tire shape/height, and potentially the load, affecting camber. Generally, as toe-out is unstable so it is used only in race cars for performance (hyper responsive steering).

All the best,

Peter

Thanks for the post Peter. It appears to be positive camber with slight toe-in from the pictures. When I am on the tractor the toe-in appears to be worse almost as if the right front tire (sitting on the tractor) is being pushed in as I am moving forward but appears to be less when sitting still as in the pictures, that is one of my concerns.

I will have to go back out and lift the front end up in the air and see if there is any rattling coming from either wheel.

 

[Jtullis13]

It's not if it's front wheel assist. Camber is built into the outboard castings. Neither is castor.

This is a front wheel assist tractor, I was thinking king pin issue initially as others had mentioned too.

 

[careyo63]

On the Yanmar the camber was Pos. and over the Yrs. it Zero'd out. Finally the R. front wobbled so bad from the wheel bearings Both!! So I knew were the problem was. Replaced them and now it still has a lot of Pos.. The bearing fell out in pieces what very little was left of them. It even scarred the Axle. My guess was keeping it greased is how it lasted that long.

 

[Jtullis13]

On the Yanmar the camber was Pos. and over the Yrs. it Zero'd out. Finally the R. front wobbled so bad from the wheel bearings Both!! So I knew were the problem was. Replaced them and now it still has a lot of Pos.. The bearing fell out in pieces what very little was left of them. It even scarred the Axle. My guess was keeping it greased is how it lasted that long.

Interesting. I have a YM155d and a YM2210d and neither of those two tractors front end look like my ym1510d in terms of camber and toe, unless they are just more worn??..

 

[ponytug]

Interesting. I have a YM155d and a YM2210d and neither of those two tractors front end look like my ym1510d in terms of camber and toe, unless they are just more worn??..

Wear is certainly a possibility, but so is the possibility that your steering system needs adjusting. I think as @careyo63 posted above, there is a combination of greasing, usage, soil type, and luck that determines how long the seals last, and therefore when the bearings start to go. Personally, once a seal starts leaking, I think that it is time to replace it, as nothing good comes of postponing the service; pins and axles get scored, and if the bearings give out, the surfaces may require real machining to repair.

Some of these machines spent years axle deep in rice paddies, and may have a need for maintenance that isn't obvious from our usage.

All the best,

Peter

 

[careyo63]

After replacing the Wheel bearings I then could Adj. out all the Play with the steering column sector! The Adj. hard to get to. Pretty much all the same on the YM series

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In the Pic your see were to look for the Adj. Set and lock nut on the base of the Gear box. That adj. took all of the last play out! That's been over a decade ago easy.