Finally painting backhoe

tractortroof · Dec 30, 2023

Before pictures

tacticalturnip · Dec 30, 2023

Those are lovely 'before' pictures, but I'm here for the 'after.'

Rustyiron · Dec 30, 2023

Prepping and painting equipment will definitely test a guys patience ! Not fun at all.
Good for you, and waiting for the "after" pictures.

mikester · Dec 30, 2023

painted back ho

tractortroof · Jan 1, 2024

About to use Ospho, anyone have any real experience with the product? I know all of us here on TBN are experts on nearly every topic

tacticalturnip · Jan 1, 2024

I'd never heard of it, had to look it up; definitely seems worth the time. Now is this a coating you apply paint to, or would the finish be left in the gray?

tractortroof · Jan 1, 2024

It’s mainly phosphoric acid and it converts rust making it inert. I have used it before with some minor issues. This time I’m going to sand it after it cures and apply oil based primer, then John Deere construction yellow.

tacticalturnip · Jan 1, 2024

tractortroof said:
It’s mainly phosphoric acid and it converts rust making it inert. I have used it before with some minor issues. This time I’m going to sand it after it cures and apply oil based primer, then John Deere construction yellow.

Well see, now I've learned something.

If you're half as concerned about mechanical maintenance I bet this thing has a looong life ahead of her. Very good!

ray66v · Jan 1, 2024

Yes, I've used it in the body shop.

I do not like it. Lots of prep work, as a result of the powdery residue it will leave in places that are hard to get into, when you try to remove it. Using a product that makes more work, was always counter intuitive to me.

I would clean the metal and use a vinyl wash primer before you seal it. If you follow the directions, and apply it properly, you can turn even a low end primer sealer into the result of high end product. I have used tons of it, and it is very reliable. And, it's very economical to use.

Your best chip resistance, can be achieved by using the wash primer, then coating it within the recoat window, with a sealer that has iso hardener, and then after that flashes, immediately apply a single stage paint with hardener. The layers of paint will cross link and lock together. And, the wash primer will lock it down to the metal.

tractortroof · Jan 1, 2024

ray66v said:
Yes, I've used it in the body shop.

I do not like it. Lots of prep work, as a result of the powdery residue it will leave in places that are hard to get into, when you try to remove it. Using a product that makes more work, was always counter intuitive to me.

I would clean the metal and use a vinyl wash primer before you seal it. If you follow the directions, and apply it properly, you can turn even a low end primer sealer into the result of high end product. I have used tons of it, and it is very reliable. And, it's very economical to use.

Your best chip resistance, can be achieved by using the wash primer, then coating it within the recoat window, with a sealer that has iso hardener, and then after that flashes, immediately apply a single stage paint with hardener. The layers of paint will cross link and lock together. And, the wash primer will lock it down to the metal.

On a backhoe FEL with pitting corrosion?

JethroB · Jan 1, 2024

tractortroof said:
View attachment 841877

About to use Ospho, anyone have any real experience with the product? I know all of us here on TBN are experts on nearly every topic

I tried a phosphoric acid name brand product. I was sorely disappointed. It seemed to only be effective on light surface rust. Very light.

tractortroof · Jan 1, 2024

First coat

Hay Dude · Jan 1, 2024

Good Luck tractoroof.
Those Deere backhoes are great

ray66v · Jan 1, 2024

tractortroof said:
On a backhoe FEL with pitting corrosion?

I don't understand the question. Why does that make a difference?

If you want to do the best job possible, you prep any metal surface until it's as clean as possible, before you paint it.

If there is pitting, there are lots of different ways to deal with it. Some are better than others, as far as longevity.

For example, chemically treating rust so you can just paint over it, is not as good as far as longevity as completely removing it.

It all depends on if you just want to get some paint on it, or do you want to do a quality repair.

Same for the paint. Do you want to do a paint job that will last, and protect it as much as possible, or do you just want to throw a coat of cheap industrial enamel on it? If you just want the latter, there is no need to be overly concerned about prep, just clean it and stat brushing.

tractortroof · Jan 1, 2024

ray66v said:
I don't understand the question. Why does that make a difference?

If you want to do the best job possible, you prep any metal surface until it's as clean as possible, before you paint it.

If there is pitting, there are lots of different ways to deal with it. Some are better than others, as far as longevity.

For example, chemically treating rust so you can just paint over it, is not as good as far as longevity as completely removing it.

It all depends on if you just want to get some paint on it, or do you want to do a quality repair.

Same for the paint. Do you want to do a paint job that will last, and protect it as much as possible, or do you just want to throw a coat of cheap industrial enamel on it? If you just want the latter, there is no need to be overly concerned about prep, just clean it and stat brushing.

This is a 26 year old piece of heavy construction equipment. We are definitely not taking it down to bare metal, there will be areas of rust left. Some areas will be finished much better, but in no case will it be bare metal more than 10% perhaps.

ray66v · Jan 1, 2024

tractortroof said:
This is a 26 year old piece of heavy construction equipment. We are definitely not taking it down to bare metal, there will be areas of rust left. Some areas will be finished much better, but in no case will it be bare metal more than 10% perhaps.

That's fine, I have no idea how far you are planning to go with it. You were asking about chemically treating the metal, so it was a natural assumption you were looking for advice, was just trying to help.

I never suggested taking it all down to bare metal. When I said "metal surface" I meant a surface where metal is exposed.