tractortroof
Silver Member
Before pictures
Finally painting backhoe
- Thread starter tractortroof
- Start date
- Views: 5658
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
Those are lovely 'before' pictures, but I'm here for the 'after.' 
Rustyiron
Super Member
Prepping and painting equipment will definitely test a guys patience ! Not fun at all.
Good for you, and waiting for the "after" pictures.
Good for you, and waiting for the "after" pictures.
OP
tractortroof
Silver Member
Those are lovely 'before' pictures, but I'm here for the 'after.'
Tractor ****, I see
OP
tractortroof
Silver Member
About to use Ospho, anyone have any real experience with the product? I know all of us here on TBN are experts on nearly every topic
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
I'd never heard of it, had to look it up; definitely seems worth the time. Now is this a coating you apply paint to, or would the finish be left in the gray?
OP
tractortroof
Silver Member
It’s mainly phosphoric acid and it converts rust making it inert. I have used it before with some minor issues. This time I’m going to sand it after it cures and apply oil based primer, then John Deere construction yellow.
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
Well see, now I've learned something.
If you're half as concerned about mechanical maintenance I bet this thing has a looong life ahead of her. Very good!
Yes, I've used it in the body shop.
I do not like it. Lots of prep work, as a result of the powdery residue it will leave in places that are hard to get into, when you try to remove it. Using a product that makes more work, was always counter intuitive to me.
I would clean the metal and use a vinyl wash primer before you seal it. If you follow the directions, and apply it properly, you can turn even a low end primer sealer into the result of high end product. I have used tons of it, and it is very reliable. And, it's very economical to use.
Your best chip resistance, can be achieved by using the wash primer, then coating it within the recoat window, with a sealer that has iso hardener, and then after that flashes, immediately apply a single stage paint with hardener. The layers of paint will cross link and lock together. And, the wash primer will lock it down to the metal.
I do not like it. Lots of prep work, as a result of the powdery residue it will leave in places that are hard to get into, when you try to remove it. Using a product that makes more work, was always counter intuitive to me.
I would clean the metal and use a vinyl wash primer before you seal it. If you follow the directions, and apply it properly, you can turn even a low end primer sealer into the result of high end product. I have used tons of it, and it is very reliable. And, it's very economical to use.
Your best chip resistance, can be achieved by using the wash primer, then coating it within the recoat window, with a sealer that has iso hardener, and then after that flashes, immediately apply a single stage paint with hardener. The layers of paint will cross link and lock together. And, the wash primer will lock it down to the metal.
