Hydraulic Top Link? Moving Hay~UPDATE! Problem Solved!

[rockinbbar]

I've been cussing CNH products for years for not making a 3 point hitch system that comes up high enough to move hay bales reliably.

The issue is I can't adjust the top link to lift the bale high enough if the bale isn't really firm, or had a somewhat wallowed out center from being moved.

Here's an example. This is as much lift as I can get without cranking on the manual toplink after I've speared the bale...

If I leave the manual top link adjusted to lift higher, the angle of the spear is too severe to run into the bale.

A hydraulic top link ought to solve this, shouldn't it?

Have any of you used a hydraulic top link to get the 3 pt hitch load higher?

Just seeking input before I order a new hydraulic top link. Preferred manufacturer?

Thanks!

 

[bdhsfz6]

Yes, I use a hyd top link to raise many of my implements. I wouldn't be without one.

Make sure you order the right length. You also need to decide whether to get a cat 1 or cat 2.

Check with Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics:

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.

www.fitritehydraulics.com

 

[oldnslo]

Can you get a spear with two prongs vs single? That is what I had and very little problem with bales tipping and sagging.

 

[rockinbbar]

Yes, I use a hyd top link to raise many of my implements. I wouldn't be without one.

Make sure you order the right length. You also need to decide whether to get a cat 1 or cat 2.

Check with Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics:

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.

www.fitritehydraulics.com

Thanks for the link!

Yeah, both my tractors are Cat 2, so that is one question solved. I'll get out and measure the 75hp toplink for ordering the hydraulic replacement. The toplinks on it and my 120hp are similar in length, so if I need it on the 120, it should pin right up and work okay.

 

[rockinbbar]

Can you get a spear with two prongs vs single? That is what I had and very little problem with bales tipping and sagging.

I hear ya, but the Case and New Holland tractors don't have as much lift height as some others.

My Mahindra 6075, that I no longer have, would lift much higher on the 3pt, and I never had an issue. Used that tractor for moving hay a LOT.

But since I've gone all Blue, I'm hoping that hydraulic top link will solve the problem.

 

[zzvyb6]

Sure you have the right lower links ? If they were longer, the rate of change of angle as you lift would be less. But from the looks of it, your top link is way too long. Plus the top link hole position isn't shown, but that also affects the rate of angle change. It's just a simple 4-bar linkage....

 

[LouNY]

Yes, it will make it handier.

 

[rockinbbar]

Sure you have the right lower links ? If they were longer, the rate of change of angle as you lift would be less. But from the looks of it, your top link is way too long. Plus the top link hole position isn't shown, but that also affects the rate of angle change. It's just a simple 4-bar linkage....

I'm pretty sure I have everything set up to get maximum lift.

Aside from the 3pt hitch itself, there's a knob that allows some adjustment on hydraulic lift with the lifting arms which link to the lower arms.

Yeah, you are right, The toplink is extended because when I retract it, the point of the spear is tilted WAY upward, and won't stick into the bale right.

 

[pmsmechanic]

It\s hard to see on your picture but if the bale fork has a hole above what you are using now use it. Usually there are three holes for the top link on the tractor. Make sure the top link is in the bottom hole. Setting up the top link like that will tip the bale fork forward as you lift which might be enough to solve your problem.

 

[rockinbbar]

It\s hard to see on your picture but if the bale fork has a hole above what you are using now use it. Usually there are three holes for the top link on the tractor. Make sure the top link is in the bottom hole. Setting up the top link like that will tip the bale fork forward as you lift which might be enough to solve your problem.

Toplink mount has 3 hole settings. I'm in the bottom one.

The bale spear itself is for Cat 1 or Cat 2 either one. The pins are on top of each other where the top of the toplink mounts. I can use either, but either one doesn't make a perceptible difference in lift height.

For some reason, in my experience, anyway... CHN tractors keep the implement level when raising. My old Mahindra would tilt upward when lifted, but CNH 3 point hitches maintain the same pitch throughout the lift. (That's probably desirable in the world of ground engaging implements, but the only thing I use a 3pt hitch for is hay moving and occasionally my gopher machine and rarely a post hole auger.)

I ordered a hydraulic top link this morning. We'll see if that fixes things a bit.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As has been mentioned, use the top pin location on the spear and the lowest pin location on the tractor side.

I would think that that would get you at least another foot of height at the end of the bail.

Also not knowing what all you do with the tractor, but from just using it for bales, I would recommend that you get a shorter than normal working length for your tractor.

I'm not sure that the top links are interchangeable?
The 75 has a cat 1 pin at the tractor end that takes a 1 3/4" wide end. I think that the 120 has a 1" pin with a 2" wide end, but not 100% sure about that.

It would be best to double-check. But a single unit can be made to work with both tractors.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Hydraulic top link makes a BIG difference! Here is the difference on my little 40hp with one of the smallest travel distance top links.
First 2 pics are at then maximum lift with top link fully out and in.

(If you zoom in, you can see that I also moved the lower pins on the disk itself (Primerd area) down to get more lift)

I have since moved my lower arms up to the next pair of holes so that it lifts higher but will still almost reach the ground when lowered.

 

[ptsg]

+1 for hydraulic top link. No hay operation for me but I do use mine a lot, specially with the brush cutter as it allows me to put my cutter at a near 45 degree angle to tackle high brush and cutting against embankments.

Picture as example, although it still has more to go than it shows in the picture.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I find the hydraulic top link to be handy with many implements, most of all, the stone rake:

Add a hydraulic tilt cylinder and you can do this as well. All without getting off the tractor.

 

[5030]

Interesting and I never have had a reason to get a hydraulic top link simply because on my M's, the lift arms have multiple adjustment holes to adjust the lift and my top link also has 3 adjustment holes that predicate the sensitivity of the draft adjustment (if I'm using it) and when I'm not the holes allow for a wide adjustment in not only total lift height but lowered engagement height as well. Finally, a hydraulic top link would occupy one set of remotes and both my discbine as well as my round baler utilize all of the 3 sets of remotes I have available.

Only way I could use one would be to add a splitter and in reality, I don't need one or the added cost for that matter.

 

[rockinbbar]

As has been mentioned, use the top pin location on the spear and the lowest pin location on the tractor side.

I would think that that would get you at least another foot of height at the end of the bail.

Also not knowing what all you do with the tractor, but from just using it for bales, I would recommend that you get a shorter than normal working length for your tractor.

I'm not sure that the top links are interchangeable?
The 75 has a cat 1 pin at the tractor end that takes a 1 3/4" wide end. I think that the 120 has a 1" pin with a 2" wide end, but not 100% sure about that.

It would be best to double-check. But a single unit can be made to work with both tractors.

Yessir, you are correct about the bottom pin difference.

May take a little grinding and perhaps a bushing to make them interchangeable, but it's not much work.

 

[Xfaxman]

Here's an example. This is as much lift as I can get without cranking on the manual toplink after I've speared the bale...

Looks like a longer bale spear would help.

Mine is 48 inches long:

A 5x6 bale:

 

[rockinbbar]

Looks like a longer bale spear would help.

Mine is 48 inches long:
View attachment 832868

A 5x6 bale:

View attachment 832869

My rear spear has a 48" spike and two shorter ones. But my short ones are underneath the main spike.

I just think I can get as much lift as I need with the hydraulic top link. Should solve the issue.

I don't have trouble with the front loader spear because it has 2 48" spears and as much lift as I wanna give it.

 

[rockinbbar]

Got a hydraulic top link and installed it today on my PS120...

It lifted up just as it should and solved the issue!

I swear, tractors ought to come with these as a standard top link!

Think I'm going to get another one for my PS75 so I won't have to swap them out.

Before:

After:

 

[geargle]

I am late to this party but will offer another solution that I used. I cut the 3X# tubing on the hay spear above the spear and added a 6" extention that increased the distance between the top link and lower link pins. This will make the spear angle up as it is lifted. Might be a cheaper option than a hydraulic top link especially for those only needing HL for one application. And yes, one can buy a short piece of precut metal on Amazon!