b2650 almost rolled need front wheel spacers
- Thread starter rrasi
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- kubota b2650
Do ya suppose his daughter fell asleep during the test like I did?
RobertEH
Silver Member
I added beet juice to my tires - added about 900 lbs to the weight of the tractor so that is goodness all the way around.
I have to operate on slopes from time to time and when I do I creeeeeeeeeeeep. All it takes is a hidden rock on the uphill side, or a dip on the downhill side to change all the weight and balance. I hate operating on sidehills. I am tense the whole time.
I have to operate on slopes from time to time and when I do I creeeeeeeeeeeep. All it takes is a hidden rock on the uphill side, or a dip on the downhill side to change all the weight and balance. I hate operating on sidehills. I am tense the whole time.
Bentrim
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2020
- Messages
- 308
- Location
- York County, Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 245, Massey Ferguson 14 Allis Chalmers G
Don't want to be a spoil sport---But ---- be careful when adding spacers. You may overload the axle, cause bearing or even axle and or wheel failure. You are moving the center of the wheel out farther which puts more leverage on the axle and more load on the bearings. Most front wheel assist axles were not designed with a loader in mind. Some manufacturers only recommend the wheel be installed only one way. Be aware adding spacers to the rear wheels can also cause the axle to break or cause bearing failure.
Have had combines on steep hills with bin full and a large head break the center of the wheel!! Talk about pucker power!!
Back in the 60's and 70's when reverse wide wheels were installed on cars it was causing bearing failure because the center of the load was moved away from the inner bearing and causing the smaller outer bearing to fail.
Be careful, out there.
Have had combines on steep hills with bin full and a large head break the center of the wheel!! Talk about pucker power!!
Back in the 60's and 70's when reverse wide wheels were installed on cars it was causing bearing failure because the center of the load was moved away from the inner bearing and causing the smaller outer bearing to fail.
Be careful, out there.
brwesi
New member
When using the front end loader, I have a serious counter weight I attach to the 3 point, easy, cheap, not permanent and makes a world of difference.
IndyIan
Veteran Member
Set your rear wheels out wide and add something heavy and low on the 3 point, like a bush hog, or box blade. And even then you can tip it pretty easily on a side slope when using the loader if you lift up high, or hit some holes and bumps.
Also if its not muddy, or you don't have to back up a slope with a load on the loader, you can start doing all your loader work in 2wd, then you will start breaking traction with the uphill tire when you start to take weight off of it. Don't do this on or near a steep slope as you only have 2 wheel braking and with a heavy bucketful you might not have enough braking.
Also if its not muddy, or you don't have to back up a slope with a load on the loader, you can start doing all your loader work in 2wd, then you will start breaking traction with the uphill tire when you start to take weight off of it. Don't do this on or near a steep slope as you only have 2 wheel braking and with a heavy bucketful you might not have enough braking.
As 2 previous posters said spacer go on the BACK axle. It is a waste of time and money fitting spacers on the front as you will be past the point of no return, before the front axle runs out of travel.
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Alternative, DUAL wheels pricey but much wider and FAR more stabil. Use quick release fittings on the duals and if you use ballast only fill the inner tyres as if you need to remove the outer tyres they are a lot easier to move with air in them. I used to remove the outer right tyre on my tractor for hay mowing, and leave it of for the hay season.
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Alternative, DUAL wheels pricey but much wider and FAR more stabil. Use quick release fittings on the duals and if you use ballast only fill the inner tyres as if you need to remove the outer tyres they are a lot easier to move with air in them. I used to remove the outer right tyre on my tractor for hay mowing, and leave it of for the hay season.
alpha&omega
Silver Member
Like you I used to use a belly mower, however, now having a cabbed machine the tip factor increased due to the change in my center of gravity. As a result, I now have my rear tires filled with Rim Guard. I also have rear wheel weights (300lbs total) and wheel spacers. For the wheel spacers I went with Bora 3”, because I have a drive over deck and anymore would have interfered with the MMM deck operation for my machine).
I NEVER mow with the FEL on the machine. It’s too risky. Especially with the steep grade on my property. It’s not worth the risk of a roll-over, just because I was too lazy to remove the FEL. On your BX, you may not be able to easily remove the loader, and are only able to remove the bucket. In this case, Always keep your ROPEs up and in addition to the aforementioned ballast options (rear spacers, rear wheel weights, rear tires filled w/ rim guard), I also would suggest buying a ballast box or having some form of rear ballast. The further out it can be the better, but that’s not always possible, safe or feasible, however a ballast box is.
Considering that you have already rolled your previous machine, I’m surprised that you didn’t already have these four ballast options on your new machine.
I NEVER mow with the FEL on the machine. It’s too risky. Especially with the steep grade on my property. It’s not worth the risk of a roll-over, just because I was too lazy to remove the FEL. On your BX, you may not be able to easily remove the loader, and are only able to remove the bucket. In this case, Always keep your ROPEs up and in addition to the aforementioned ballast options (rear spacers, rear wheel weights, rear tires filled w/ rim guard), I also would suggest buying a ballast box or having some form of rear ballast. The further out it can be the better, but that’s not always possible, safe or feasible, however a ballast box is.
Considering that you have already rolled your previous machine, I’m surprised that you didn’t already have these four ballast options on your new machine.
I stuck a liquid filled "inclinometer" (not sure of correct name) at top of my windshield. I have a (non wheel-spaced) L6060 Grand Cab. I was told 15° is about max inclination for this tractor which is fitted with liquid filled R1s. I've just about hit 15° on several occasions & go very slowly when I get there to avoid any lurching from hidden bumps or holes. So far I've not lifted a wheel (that I'm aware of) and I always shift my 220/lb body weight well to the high side of the cab. Am I taking a risk doing this? What max. degree of tilt is generally considered safe for this type of tractor and what would be safe with 4" rear spacers added? I'm usually mowing with a 72" rear 3/pt. hitch LandPride brush hog when doing this. I often see road crews mowing at crazy angles with their ag tired tractors and batwings and am encouraged by their bravery.