Homemade 2 shank subsoiler

   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler
  • Thread Starter
#41  
View attachment 804458The ground force is extreme in MI clay. See the picture below.
One of the reasons why I went overkill on mine. I saw a similar unit for sale locally, asking €300 (crazy price IMO), but it's just built to lightly unless they meant it should only be used in sand or something.
 
   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler #42  
One of the reasons why I went overkill on mine. I saw a similar unit for sale locally, asking €300 (crazy price IMO), but it's just built to lightly unless they meant it should only be used in sand or something.
That is, or let's say Was, a middlebuster or potatoe plow; not a subsoiler; and not really intended as a primary tillage impliment.
 
   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler #43  
This more or less what I'm trying to achieve.

In this case, it's a Landini 2-55 with 50 HP, same weight and size as mine, pulling a 5 shank ripper about 11" to 13" deep.

Thats allmost the same as the 9 shank Jako cultivator we borrowed from the neighbour. It took all 55 hp of our Zetor 5245 to bury it to the frame. Off course it weighs 3 times as much as this Landini which aids traction...

Given the tape measure he holds beside it, its barely putting the chisels under, so 20 to 24cm working depth (8 to 10")
 
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   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler
  • Thread Starter
#44  
And it's done! Still subject to some minor changes after some testing but it's done. Specially the corner of the shanks. That will most likely come out.

Any bets on how long it will take for the support stand to turn into the 3rd shank? 😅

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   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler #45  
Any bets on how long it will take for the support stand to turn into the 3rd shank? 😅

Have you used it already ?
It pulls easiest if you make the 3rd leg staggered, which makes it easier to compress the soil sideways inbetween the shanks.

We used to borrow a grassland subsoiler with a disk coulter in front, and a foot wide steel roller behind each leg. It was a two leg machine and we used to overlap 50% to achieve staggered tines: The coulter and roller of the center leg were missing so the owner. disassembled the center (3rd) tine.

My guesstimate is that your tractor, on radials, at slightly less than half the weight of ours, will pull 3 legs just fine where ours pulled 9 on light soil. The rear row of tines have half the resistance of the front row so effectively we were pulling a 7 tine (5 in the front row breaking up full field, 4 in the rear row running in mostly broken up soil because of the too narrow tine spacing to bust the soil to the same 10 to 12" as the moldboard plough)
 
   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler #46  
If this is an Olive orchard will there be roots to contend with? Amazing how strong a small root is when anchored in the ground.

As points for power requirements,
In the fall I run a 9 shank disk ripper and in areas where we haul a lot of loads try to get it down 14 - 16 inches deep. Frequently limited by traction. 480 HP 4WD drive estimate weight at 45,000 lbs. Never ever get that deep on first pass.

Neighbor has 5 shank subsoiler on 300 HP FWA tractor and he spins out trying to go 16-18” deep on packed headlands.
"Where we haul a lot of loads" i guess the OP doesnt run grain trucks or 300hp tractors on row crop tires in his veggie plot, so he doesnt have packed headlands...

What kind of ripper do you use, a pull type, which puts the weight of the soil being lifted on the implement wheels or crumbler roller instead of on the tractor ? When our friend ripped the frame of his grassland subsoiler to pieces on an ore deposit in his field, we borrowed a very heavy Evers 3 leg ripper from a neighbour, with our 5245 on duals i could run it up to 30" deep untill the grain stubble started to plug up under the frame. That was in low range, at a speed where it would have spun out if it wasnt for the weight of the lifted soil pulling extra weight on the rear axle. When i lifted the 3pt at the end of the pass without stopping, the tractor would simply wheelie up untill the draft resistance and downforce would reduce when the ripper came out of the ground and the front axle came down to earth.

Unlike a cultivator with steeper chisel angles intended to mix rather than lift, you get a lot of extra traction with a ripper when having it 3pt mounted.
 
   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Have you used it already ?
It pulls easiest if you make the 3rd leg staggered, which makes it easier to compress the soil sideways inbetween the shanks.

We used to borrow a grassland subsoiler with a disk coulter in front, and a foot wide steel roller behind each leg. It was a two leg machine and we used to overlap 50% to achieve staggered tines: The coulter and roller of the center leg were missing so the owner. disassembled the center (3rd) tine.

My guesstimate is that your tractor, on radials, at slightly less than half the weight of ours, will pull 3 legs just fine where ours pulled 9 on light soil. The rear row of tines have half the resistance of the front row so effectively we were pulling a 7 tine (5 in the front row breaking up full field, 4 in the rear row running in mostly broken up soil because of the too narrow tine spacing to bust the soil to the same 10 to 12" as the moldboard plough)
Haven't tested it. Tomorrow if the weather allows. I was joking about the 3rd shank as I'll most likely forget to take the stand off.

My tractor without the loader on, is around 1650 KGs, give or take 50 KGs. I don't have radials though. Definitely something I would go with if I were to buy a tractor today.
 
   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler #48  
"Where we haul a lot of loads" i guess the OP doesnt run grain trucks or 300hp tractors on row crop tires in his veggie plot, so he doesnt have packed headlands...

What kind of ripper do you use, a pull type, which puts the weight of the soil being lifted on the implement wheels or crumbler roller instead of on the tractor ? When our friend ripped the frame of his grassland subsoiler to pieces on an ore deposit in his field, we borrowed a very heavy Evers 3 leg ripper from a neighbour, with our 5245 on duals i could run it up to 30" deep untill the grain stubble started to plug up under the frame. That was in low range, at a speed where it would have spun out if it wasnt for the weight of the lifted soil pulling extra weight on the rear axle. When i lifted the 3pt at the end of the pass without stopping, the tractor would simply wheelie up untill the draft resistance and downforce would reduce when the ripper came out of the ground and the front axle came down to earth.

Unlike a cultivator with steeper chisel angles intended to mix rather than lift, you get a lot of extra traction with a ripper when having it 3pt mounted.
The unit I run is what is called a disc ripper here in the USA. Case IH 870 Ecolo-tiger. It has tandem disc gangs in the front that you can adjust depth from tractor, 9 ripper shanks, then closing disks and roller baskets. This is purely pull type on 480 HP 4WD articulated steer tractor. Neighbor has Case IH not sure on model approx 300 - 325 HP (I think) MFWA with the 5 shank 3 point mounted ripper so he gets benefit of weight and draft for added traction. Packed head lands lugs really don't bite so it is a pure friction drive system.
 
   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Say what? :)

First pass ever. 40cm deep up to the gussets.

Tractor had no issues other than some hard spots here and there that required me lift the 3 pt an inch or so.

More to follow.
 

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   / Homemade 2 shank subsoiler #50  
Say what? :)

First pass ever. 40cm deep up to the gussets.

Tractor had no issues other than some hard spots here and there that required me lift the 3 pt an inch or so.

More to follow.

(y) (y) (y)

gg
 

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