Ford 3000 Gas

[Mikedes97]

I have a 75 model 3000. It will run for 45 minutes then loss all power. Will run but will not take any load. I have changed the coil, condenser, wires, plugs, rotor, distributor cap, carburetor and probably other things I jave forgot. Has anyone else had this issue?

 

[John0829]

Need to do some diagnosing of the problem, when it loses power check the color of the spark, if it is yellow the problem is ignition related. If pulling the choke out a little improves it then you have fuel issues. Which I am will to bet is the problem is ignition. If so hot wire the tractor, run a wire from the battery to the coil to see if the engine runs like it should. Since you have replaced everything my best guess is your ignition switch may be going bad or the coil you replaced may be bad even if it is new.

One other thing it could be is the resistor wire that feeds the coil. Hot wiring the tractor will eliminate the resistor in the circuit if it were to be the problem.

Sorry thing is so many replacement parts these days are bad out of the box.

 

[Mikedes97]

Tried pulling the choke, it just shuts it down faster. Hotwired the ignition with a wire from the battery to the coil and still no difference

 

[TractorTech]

How is your fuel flow when this happens? I am thinking that there may be crud in the tank around the tank strainer, or worse, the strainer is gone and the port in the valve is clogged.

 

[Roadworthy]

I have an old pickup that does that. If I blow air back into the tank It blows the crud out of the strainer. I'm good until it finds its way back. You could try blowing air through the fuel line into the tank and see if it runs any better or longer.

 

[Mikedes97]

How is your fuel flow when this happens? I am thinking that there may be crud in the tank around the tank strainer, or worse, the strainer is gone and the port in the valve is clogged.

Fuel flows freely, no restrictions indicated

 

[Mikedes97]

I have an old pickup that does that. If I blow air back into the tank It blows the crud out of the strainer. I'm good until it finds its way back. You could try blowing air through the fuel line into the tank and see if it runs any better or

I blew air back into it a couple of times. Absolutely no change

 

[John0829]

Tried pulling the choke, it just shuts it down faster. Hotwired the ignition with a wire from the battery to the coil and still no difference

Did you look at the spark to see what color it was?

 

[Mikedes97]

Did you look at the spark to see what color it was?

I'm getting a strong orange spark from the coil wire all the way to the plugs. That's with a new coil, condenser, points, plugs and wires

 

[TractorTech]

Sounds like fuel delivery still. I know I'm asking similar question again, but you have good flow out of the carburetor drain? Filter bowl is good/clean? Nothing in carb inlet (screen if it has one)?

 

[Mikedes97]

Yes Sir, replaced with brand new carb. Old carb and new carb give same result

 

[TractorTech]

And you've blown through all the lines and sediment bowl?

 

[masseyrider]

Since it runs for 45 minutes, give or take, I doubt it's fuel delivery.
Sounds like it's something to do with heat.
No complex electronics on that era tractor so I would bet on the coil. May have issues as it gets hot.
If it was an individual plug it would run rough as it lost power.

 

[TractorTech]

Coil was changed already

 

[rScotty]

Sounds like fuel delivery still. I know I'm asking similar question again, but you have good flow out of the carburetor drain? Filter bowl is good/clean? Nothing in carb inlet (screen if it has one)?

I've read through the rest of the posts and I agree with Tractor Tech. Sounds like fuel delivery. Especially since at the very beginning you said that after it runs for awhile it will run but not take any load. That's classic low fuel delivery.]

What you describe could happen if the fuel filter up by the fuel tank was just clogged enough so that while it ran it was depleting the fuel in the float bowl. Then it can idle fine, but when you call for it to rev up to a load the fuel level in the float drops faster than the open needle valve can supply. That starves the main jet.... but would still provide enough fuel for the idle circuit since it draws from a lower point in the carb.

Last one I did like that, the fuel bowl under the gas tank had a sock that stuck up into the fuel tank. That sock had crudded over. It was only a problem when the fuel tank was below half full. So there's a test for you.

And here is another possibility.....Some of those old fuel filter bowls for gassers had a needle valve and diaphram IN THE FUEL TAP FILTER (old 2 cyl. JDs & others) and also had a skinny oil pressure line running to that fuel tap filter that used engine oil pressure on a diaphram to automatically turned the fuel on when the motor was cranked or running, and then turned the fuel feed to the carb off when the motor wasn't running. Very handy, but it had a rubber diaphram that cannot stand up to alcohol in modern fuels.
The cure for that is an annual rebuild or replace the OEM automatic fuel tap filter with a manual lever type.

rScotty

 

[Mikedes97]

And you've blown through all the lines and sediment bowl?

Yes Sir, twice

 

[Williy]

If your tractor ran with all the ignition parts put the
old condenser back in and see if that will make a
difference as the condenser gets hot it could open
up and you can only check them if they are HOT!!!!

willy

 

[Jstpssng]

Coil was changed already

How about a tester?

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Diagnostic-Detector-Automotive-Lawnmower/dp/B07DXSX2F3/ref=asc_df_B07DXSX2F3?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333120120422&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699122774&psc=1

When I was working on my father's 4400 it was acting similar. My brother produced one of the above and we had it running in no time. I don't recall what we changed but believe it was the coil. Ours was old, but they do have bad units from the factory.
At any rate for ten bucks you might spend a lot less time scratching your head.

 

[John0829]

Your problem is the spark, it should be BLUE and snappy. Orange or yellow is weak spark and it will not get the job done. I know you said you replaced the coil but as I said many new parts are bad out of the box. I think it is going to be either a bad/weak coil or bad condenser.

It ain't yer fuel.

 

[masseyrider]

How about a tester? View attachment 801153

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Diagnostic-Detector-Automotive-Lawnmower/dp/B07DXSX2F3/ref=asc_df_B07DXSX2F3?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333120120422&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699122774&psc=1

When I was working on my father's 4400 it was acting similar. My brother produced one of the above and we had it running in no time. I don't recall what we changed but believe it was the coil. Ours was old, but they do have bad units from the factory.
At any rate for ten bucks you might spend a lot less time scratching your head.

thank you