how to build your own custom backhoe subframe

[Dannyboyski]

Finally got the frame together. Took a big tree root out. I didn’t baby anything and it stood up nicely.

No flex. Pins work beautifully (I’ll report back if this changes over time)

Actually the tractor drives much better with this close coupled weight at the rear.

Big shout out to dfkrug for your help!
Happy digging folks.

 

[Subfitter]

I do not know that hoe. Does it have a toplink connection under the seat? If so, I would connect that to the toplink bracket on the tractor for additional stiffness.

It is a good thing to see how much flex you get while digging. This takes 2 people; one operating the hoe, and the other looking closely at the frame at the rear of the hoe.

Looks good. Killer deal.

No engineered toplink per New Holland design, I can very easily add one though , if needed. Backhoe is 650 lbs per research. Feels solid so far. I am making cleats for the downrigger pads and will do some testing then.

 

[Subfitter]

No engineered toplink per New Holland design, I can very easily add one though , if needed. Backhoe is 650 lbs per research. Feels solid so far. I am making cleats for the downrigger pads and will do some testing then.

Tested today, a little more flex than i liked. Adding toplink, tractor to hoe.

 

[Subfitter]

Tested today, a little more flex than i liked. Adding toplink, tractor to hoe. Please disregard tacks. Will be looking nice soon.

Toplink did the trick. About 3/4" flex back is gone now. If not already mentioned, i believe proper bolt connection clearance holes are very important.

 

[dfkrug]

Toplink did the trick. About 3/4" flex back is gone now. If not already mentioned, i believe proper bolt connection clearance holes are very important.

Good job.

The holes in the half-inch plate I used for the subframe on my Kioti CK30 were for 1" fine-thread bolts. I placed them fairly precisely, and as the hours built up, the tiny flexes and wiggles eventually caused the bolt threads to bite into the plate a bit. Now, the bolts do not just slide right in or out.

So, more clearance (bigger holes) may help with that, but they would also allow more movement. I used nylock nuts and sometimes lock washers, too.

Tradeoffs.

 

[jayyk42]

Hello everyone, new to this forum! I have a 1988 Ford 1720 with 7108 FEL and a Woods bh750-2 mounted by the 3 link. I want to swap out the 3 link for a subframe as I really don't want to take any chances with anything cracking or breaking. Obviously all the bh750-2 stuff is far out of manufacture and most of the 1720/757b stuff. I have been searching and im finding newer '96-'06ish 1920 subframes that were used with the 757/8c backhoe on the 1920. Im curious how close the frame is between the 1720 vs the 1920? I will fab up some brackets for the Woods BH and whatever else is needed. Does anyone have any comparison measurements possibly of the 1920? I would greatly appreciate it. Also I wonder how different the Woods bh7500 vs the bh750 are?

 

[HawkinsHollow]

@jayyk42 THANK YOU for reviving this thread!!! I would LOVE to find a 3point backhoe on FB marketplace but I refuse to use it on the 3 point. Finding a BH with a specific subframe for ones tractor is like finding a needle in a haystack. Buying new is PRICEY and I'm cheap. Making a subframe seems like the way to go. Have not yet read this whole thread but it seems like a wealth of knowledge on the subject.

Also thanks to @dfkrug for starting the thread and dropping all of this knowledge!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'll also add to this thread.

I was given an old pre MF backhoe. ( Mid Western Industries ) MF bought out Mid Western to start their own industrial line up. I need to attach this onto the FEL frame on the MF 165 that I also had given to me. I just need to get the 165 running. The injection pump needs to be rebuilt. I'm not in a rush to get this done so it'll take a while.

 

[dfkrug]

Also I wonder how different the Woods bh7500 vs the bh750 are?

One of the differences between the old Woods 750 and later 7500 models is that they went from a single-cylinder chain-type boom swing to a 2-cyl system. Buckets and prob even subframes should work on both.

My own clone hoe (Prairie Dog 7.5) is a beefed up 7500.

Those older 1720/1920 Ford/NH tractors really do need to be protected from breaking in half.

 

[dfkrug]

I would LOVE to find a 3point backhoe on FB marketplace but I refuse to use it on the 3 point. Finding a BH with a specific subframe for ones tractor is like finding a needle in a haystack.

Backhoe attachments for CUTs have lost a lot of ground to mini-excavators, esp the cheaper Chinese units. You can find them all over Craigs and MktPlc for reasonable prices now. A new hoe attachment plus subframe will cost more than a 1-ton mini-X as long as you stay away from pricey name brands.

I love my 1-ton mini-X, but the backhoe attachment, which is always on my tractor does have its place. It can reach farther/deeper and the greater weight allows much greater forces to be applied. The 1500# ballast to my Kioti is especially useful for lifting/pulling logs and other heavy objects.

 

[jayyk42]

One of the differences between the old Woods 750 and later 7500 models is that they went from a single-cylinder chain-type boom swing to a 2-cyl system. Buckets and prob even subframes should work on both.

My own clone hoe (Prairie Dog 7.5) is a beefed up 7500.

Those older 1720/1920 Ford/NH tractors really do need to be protected from breaking in half.

Thank you for that i wasn't aware of those differences which I believe don't affect the actual size of the unit that the subframe connects to. Im probably going to just buy the frame for the 1920/757c as a base and fab up from there. They have available some different brackets if I need to. Pricing most of the parts from Messick comes approx $3k without shipping so ill start with the frame 1st.

 

[aczlan]

Looking at the mounting for the 750-2, it's nothing fancy:

2 heavy plates to catch the 2 (or all 4) bolt holes where the 3 point attaches, 2 pieces of heavy angle going up to catch the top link bracket and off you go.

Aaron Z

 

[jayyk42]

This is the frame for the 757c for either the 1920 or the 1720 but I believe its 1996-2000's era. Ill see what else I need/want to spend money on after I get the subframe or what i don't feel like making myself.

 

[jayyk42]

Here's the Woods bh7500 subframe. Im debating in my head which frame to go with? The Woods bh7500 or the Ford 1920/1720 with 757c/758c?

 

[pmsmechanic]

The Woods looks like it still fastens to the top link on the tractor. Part #4 etc. whereas the Ford sub frame doesn't. It has braces. Part #9. The Woods looks like it's easier to hook up with 1 pin in the front vs 2 on the Ford.

 

[jayyk42]

Yeah none of those subframes are available from Messicks anymore, even from newer tractors also. I found 2 cheap frames online, close by my house, im going to grab them this weekend and make one from the 2. Best I can do!

 

[NcTim]

Hello all, first time here. Found this thread researching subframe builds. Very informative info here. I have a kioti lk3054 and bought a back hoe for it. Its a long 1199a. I was going to just 3pt mount it but after searching and reading im not going that route at all. Subframe it will be.
Question 1, is the fel frame a good place to mount to the front of the tractor?
Question 2, what about were the rops mounts to the rear axles?
Not alot of room close the the tractor housing itself so I thought of stepping it out to hit both these points to tie it together. Ill run some bracing to exsisting holes to the tractor as needed. Just seeing if these are two substantial places to start the main frame. Thanks for any advice.

 

[NcTim]

Rear pic

 

[dfkrug]

Question 1, is the fel frame a good place to mount to the front of the tractor?
Question 2, what about were the rops mounts to the rear axles?

1) The FEL subframe mount is an excellent place for your front support.
2) I have used the ROPS mount brackets for some of the frames I have made. If you can mount your subframe around and above the rear axle housings, attached to the ROPS brackets, that has advantages. you don't want to hang the subframe fully under the axle housing, if practical, since that lowers your ground clearance.

Definitely include a connection to the toplink bracket for added stiffness.

 

[NcTim]

Thanks dfkrug, there's very little room over the rear axle. If I go under the axle it shouldn't be any lower then the center section of the axle/tractor. Only going through ruts..lol.
My thought was to add a bracket to both sides of were the rops attaches to the axle then weld a plate to the bottom of the brackets or weld the square tube directly to the brackets under the axle. I drawed

the brackets in red in the picture if I can get more then one to load at a time. Another question..is the draw bar safe to use? Thanks again for the help.