Snowplow hydraulics

   / Snowplow hydraulics #1  

tree grower

Silver Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
208
Location
Cuttingsville, VT
Tractor
Ford 1210, Bobcat 742B, John Deere 1050
Just discovered that the configuration of my short driveway is difficult to plow with the FEL on my little Ford 1210. Just bought the blade and frame of a plow that came off a Ferg TO30. The frame can be modified easy enough to fit the tractor, but the hydraulics are simpler than anything I have previously encountered. I have never had a piston that wasn't two-way, and I need to know what to buy for a hydraulic valve. I am thinking single-acting, one spool, open center, ~20 gpm, no detent. I assume plumbing is just one line from manifold, one line return to manifold, and one line to cylinder--pressure out, gravity back. Web search shows these from $50 to $770, and are often called a directional control valve. What is the significance of 'directional control' ? So....what should I buy?
 

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   / Snowplow hydraulics #2  
   / Snowplow hydraulics #3  
Does your front end loader have a float feature? If it does, see how much it would cost just to replace the cylinder with one with two ports. Then you would have up, down pressure and float also. A cylinder may end up costing the same as a valve. If you do not have a float feature on the valve you have now though, I don't think I would go this route for plowing snow.
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#4  
My loader does have float, but the weight of a plow (at least the plow I bought) is heavy, and when added to the weight of the loader is quite a bit for this little tractor. Also, for this particular driveway I would like the plow close to the tractor instead of way out in front of loader arms. The Prince valve is what I had in mind, but very much appreciate the validation.
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics #5  
I bought a Fisher snowplow along with belt drive hydraulic pump off a Ford Bronco and installed it on my Ford 1600 with no loader. Its worked perfect for many years.
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics #6  
I use a 2 way hydraulic cylinder and use my loader valve, up/ down, right /left for the angle. For float, the arm that the cylinder lifts is connected to the plow via a short chain. I can add down pressure by the arm pushing on the plow frame with the lift arm( I built it that way). Cam
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics #7  
Just discovered that the configuration of my short driveway is difficult to plow with the FEL on my little Ford 1210. Just bought the blade and frame of a plow that came off a Ferg TO30. The frame can be modified easy enough to fit the tractor, but the hydraulics are simpler than anything I have previously encountered. I have never had a piston that wasn't two-way, and I need to know what to buy for a hydraulic valve. I am thinking single-acting, one spool, open center, ~20 gpm, no detent. I assume plumbing is just one line from manifold, one line return to manifold, and one line to cylinder--pressure out, gravity back. Web search shows these from $50 to $770, and are often called a directional control valve. What is the significance of 'directional control' ? So....what should I buy?
Don't need to bother changing valves. Just get a double acting cylinder. The plow hangs from a chain. Makes no difference if the weight of the plow sucks the cylinder down or if it powers itself down.
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I bought the valve recommended by davedj, and three new hoses---hi and low pressure to the pump and one to the lift cylinder. The cylinder lifts as expected, but drops slowly -- surprising in light of the heavy plow blade. Since all the new components are full of air, it is logical to think the system needs to be bled. How do I do that ? I don't see a bleeder screw on either the new valve or the hydraulic coupling block--see img 1626 in original post.
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics #9  
What am I missing? Why bother switching valves? Seems like a lot more messing around than just swapping cylinders. Is it cheaper?
 
   / Snowplow hydraulics #10  
I bought the valve recommended by davedj, and three new hoses---hi and low pressure to the pump and one to the lift cylinder. The cylinder lifts as expected, but drops slowly -- surprising in light of the heavy plow blade. Since all the new components are full of air, it is logical to think the system needs to be bled. How do I do that ? I don't see a bleeder screw on either the new valve or the hydraulic coupling block--see img 1626 in original post.
Air would allow the blade to drop faster.

What size hose and fittings did you use to plumb from valve to cylinder? How long is this hose?

Same questions for tank line on the valve?
 
 
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