JD with AWS need to remove transaxle

[nbpt100]

I have a JD X304 with All Wheel Steering. I am going to replace the bad transaxle. Can anyone who has done this provide some guidance on what I need to look for and do i need to follow the JD repair manual exactly? The manual has you removing the fenders, gas tank, steering wheel, King pins in the u-joints. The U-Joints have a torque of 350 ft-Lbs. This seems excessively high. Is that maybe a typo? I have read some unclear posts where people say they have taken short cuts but the posts are not very clear and old.

Any guidance from someone who has done this is appreciated. Thanks

 

[oldnslo]

How complete of a transaxle are you buying for a replacement? I have seen them with the u-joints installed so that would not be a problem.

My experience with working on my X540 and older 425, 445 removing seat, fenders, fuel tank is required to gain access to the transaxle and linkage. None of these were AWS though.

 

[nbpt100]

I am getting just the transaxle so I need to transfer all other components. I am not sure if I have to remove the seat, fenders and gas tank. It may be helpful but I wont do it if I can disconnect all linkages with out doing it. It is the AWS that realy complicates this. That is where I am looking especially for help.

 

[tomplum]

I've not done a transaxle replacement on an AWS. I would think that your life will be much easier to remove the fender deck though. The procedure is quite simple really and it will open the chassis up so you can work. The seat can stay on the body. Pedals off, HOC knob off, unhook the seat harness, undo the few fasteners and it's off. If it were me, I'd probably support the chassis from the top so you can have room to handle the heavy cast parts. By the looks of things you have the manual.

 

[oldnslo]

My son replaced the transaxle on his X749 which is a much larger machine and removing fender assembly, fuel tank was required to access the hydraulic lines and linkage. His is also 4WD so adds a few more parts. Yes AWS also adds more items but I believe all of these are accessible from underneath.

 

[nbpt100]

I am trying to understand how to remove the trans axle from the carrier. It appears you have to remove the king pins on the u-joints. I do not see any way around it.


I may choose to remove fender deck and gas tank. At this point It Does not seem like a lot of extra work considering what it can save.

 

[oldnslo]

If like my sons X749 and my X540 four bolts hold the transaxle to the frame. Is frame what you are calling carrier?

your choice on trying to save work by not removing fuel tank and fenders

 

[nbpt100]

If like my sons X749 and my X540 four bolts hold the transaxle to the frame. Is frame what you are calling carrier?

your choice on trying to save work by not removing fuel tank and fenders

The carrier is the large black metal piece joining the two steering knuckles in the pic below. It all has to come off and transferred to the new transaxle.

 

[oldnslo]

I have no clue on how those carriers are removed. That looks significantly different than the transaxle on the X749.

 

[tomplum]

Unhook the steering, buzz the two big pins out , and it should all slide out w/ the U joint assy. Then to the carrier I'd think. Hopefully the splines were lubed. The roller bearing will likely drop out the bottom , so just keep track of it.

 

[beenthere]

Are the "big" pins key #15 in the parts?

 

[tomplum]

Yep. They're about an inch and an eighth. Whatever that may be in metric if I recall when I pulled the joint before.

 

[nbpt100]

Are the "big" pins key #15 in the parts?

Yes.

 

[nbpt100]

Yep. They're about an inch and an eighth. Whatever that may be in metric if I recall when I pulled the joint before.

If So they are then 28mm or 29mm. 1 1/8= 28.575 mm . Seems like odd sizes.

 

[nbpt100]

Unhook the steering, buzz the two big pins out , and it should all slide out w/ the U joint assy. Then to the carrier I'd think. Hopefully the splines were lubed. The roller bearing will likely drop out the bottom , so just keep track of it.

I hope they buzz out. That is my biggest concern. None of this has ever been apart. I do not know if they lube use anti seize on any of the spiines at the factory. Probably not?

 

[tomplum]

I rarely have to service any of the AWS stuff. The hub I did had the coating of grease. One would think the manual would spec it.

 

[nbpt100]

Here is an update. I got the transaxle out of the machine and separated from the carrier. No need to remove the fenders. Everything was easy enough to get to from underneath. The king pin bolts came out with out much trouble using my impact. TomPlum was right..... I used a 1 1/8 6 pt. impact socket. It fit very tight which is good, so I would bet it is actually a 29mm hex. My problem now is trying to remove the U-joints from the splined shaft on the old transaxle. They are both rusted and frozen. I am soaking over night in penetrating oil. I have it vertical so that gravity will help draw the oil through the spline. It will be tough to get off. There is no good way to hit it with a good blow. the approach is from a steep angle. It's never easy! Is it? I do not want to use my air hammer but may have to. I do not want to damage the u-joints. Not sure if they can easily be separated and then reassembled with out compromising them? If so I could press it through in a 5 ton press. In any event I am going to use some heat tomorrow, if I need to. I need to be careful to not damage the bearing seals in the u-joints. They are rubber.

Thanks to all who chimed in with their ideas. The journey continues.

 

[tomplum]

Yes. All you need to do is price those joints out and then you'll take out the kid gloves. Stupidly priced. SO the transaxle is sacrificial anyways, correct?

 

[nbpt100]

Yes. All you need to do is price those joints out and then you'll take out the kid gloves. Stupidly priced. SO the transaxle is sacrificial anyways, correct?

I did not price them but like most JD parts they are likely very expensive. Did you? I can destroy the transaxle if need be. I was hoping to salvage it to some day rebuild or have for parts.

 

[tomplum]

The cheapest one is + 300$. And it gets worse. I was never one of those that felt just because it said Deere on the label that it was high priced. Some parts have really gone through the roof though.