"Sharpened" the bush hog blades

[jaxs]

Not an expert here, I would think if they were horribly out of balance it could be rough on the gearbox. Though maybe a heavier built box compared to one on a shaft drive belly mount rider or maybe even finish 3 pointer. Dunno. Just wondered who took the time to do it. Rider mower blades should be balanced.

It never hurts when things are balanced but I'm not sure how one would balance Bush Hog blades. Like you I balance rider blades on one of those cone shape gizmos since I already have them off and it only take's a jiffy. Not to mix apples and oranges but I never have trailer tires balamced and never noticed an ill effect.

 

[sandman2234]

I used to driver the tractor up on the trailer and lock it down, leaving the bush hog hanging over the end between the ramps. Climb under with a 4 inch grinder and go to work. Sharpening bush hog blades does not mean making them razor sharp, or even close, but around here, sand is wicked on blades and it has to be countered, or you will be cutting with a flat edge! I usually sharpen them and leave about 1/8" dull edge at the point.
David from jax

 

[RandyT]

It never hurts when things are balanced but I'm not sure how one would balance Bush Hog blades. Like you I balance rider blades on one of those cone shape gizmos since I already have them off and it only take's a jiffy. Not to mix apples and oranges but I never have trailer tires balamced and never noticed an ill effect.

Scale. Balance is based on weight which is the purpose behind the cone or other type of lawnmower balancers. The heavy end will either rotate down or dip down depending on type used.

 

[3gunr]

Don't have an angle grinder and would not want to be underneath there trying to hold one of those up to grind the blades.

It is so easy to sharpen the blades with an angle grinder which you can get at HF for 15 bucks by reaching underneath. You dont have to get your body under it . I am 63 yrs old, no way im taking those blades off for a 5 minute job, I also have 3 brush cutters and a finish mower to deal with.

 

[Dozernut]

If you have cattle or horses a tree stub, caused by sharp mower blades, will cripple them if they step on the stubs. Better to shatter the tree or brush with those dull blades. This will save some vet bills or having to buy a new freezer to hold all that beef you suddenly have.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

I have found the best way to sharpen blades on a lift type bush hog is to load it on my deckover gooseneck trailer and with the mower raised and hanging off the back I can walk right up to it and reach under and sharpen the blades with an angle grinder. As far as taking the blades off driving the keyed bolt out was the only difficult part, but if you will place a bottle jack underneath the stumpjumper to take out the flex every time you hit the bolt, it will usually drive out the first lick with a 3lb hammer.

 

[5030]

It is so easy to sharpen the blades with an angle grinder which you can get at HF for 15 bucks by reaching underneath. You dont have to get your body under it . I am 63 yrs old, no way im taking those blades off for a 5 minute job, I also have 3 brush cutters and a finish mower to deal with.

You must have better luck with HF angle grinders that I do. I can 'find the smoke' in them real quick. Never had one last more than 10 minutes and they all stink when they die. Smell like smoldering rice paper...lol

 

[Hay Dude]

Wimpy. I use an IR 3/4" drive air impact or my Thor 1/2" drive air impact. Both produce in the excess of 1600 foot pounds reverse and the 3/4" will make 2000 foot pounds. No bolt will stand up to that power. Break 'em or shake em, don't matter to me. Fastenal has the replacements. Both cost less than your Milwaukee. In fact, both together cost about what your one tool cost.

Go visit Torque Test Channel if you doubt me. The do the 'real beans' tests, not what the box claims and don't deliver.

“Wimpy”? Lol Is your dog bigger than his dog, too?

 

[Bearsixty7]

Wimpy. I use an IR 3/4" drive air impact or my Thor 1/2" drive air impact. Both produce in the excess of 1600 foot pounds reverse and the 3/4" will make 2000 foot pounds. No bolt will stand up to that power. Break 'em or shake em, don't matter to me. Fastenal has the replacements. Both cost less than your Milwaukee. In fact, both together cost about what your one tool cost.

Go visit Torque Test Channel if you doubt me. The do the 'real beans' tests, not what the box claims and don't deliver.

LOL! No way this is considered wimpy! It has done everything I have needed it to including removing Brush hog blade nuts. In fact you better have a good hold on it with 2 hands when used on really tight, high torque fasteners as it can break your wrist.

The 2767 M18 FUEL™ 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring eliminates the need to use a pneumatic tool for those stubborn and rusted bolts by delivering 1,000 ft-lbs of fastening torque and 1400 ft-lbs of nut-busting torque.

And I doubt it cost more than your setup, I bought the 2767 M18 FUEL™ 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench tool only for under 250 as I already had batteries and chargers. I keep it in the truck as well and it doesn't require an air compressor or hoses to use it away from the shop. WIN-WIN.

 

[jyoutz]

Bench grinders are not used much anymore. I worked 8n a shop over 1/4 mile long. Built drilling rigs. Not a bench grinder in that place.

Why does it matter what manufacturers use? The poster is doing this at home. I still use my bench grinder and it works fine.

 

[bcp]

I would never even think about crawling underneath to sharpen or remove blades.

I leave the cutter on the ground, approach it at right angles, chain the far side to the loader bucket, and raise and tilt it a little past vertical. I can then work on it standing up, with easy access. I double chain it for security and have it leaning a little past the vertical balance point so it would tend to fall away from me if it managed to come loose.

Mine has the gearbox vent on the side. I lift it so that side is on top when I stand it up.

Bruce

 

[RalphVa]

I've no rotator cuff in my right shoulder. Cannot lift very high. Could not work an angle grinder working underneath the tractor and certainly cannot do it without going underneath (with jack stands in back and floor jack under the front).

Just safer and easier to remove the blades and to use the bench grinder. Loosening and torquing with 6 foot breaker bar works fine.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Why does it matter what manufacturers use? The poster is doing this at home. I still use my bench grinder and it works fine.

There's still people that pick cotton by hand too.

 

[Smokeydog]

Given the harsh environment of the blade bolts, this is a good example where the application of anti-seize or CorrosionX during assembly has been especially beneficial.

Had my wife help me with some particular hard to remove factory installed blade bolts from a newer bush hog. 1” IR impact wrench from her under the Christmas tree that year. Use a 1/2” pneumatic hose just for that tool. Something going to move when you pull the trigger, the fastener or you.

 

[Alan W.]

I use anti seize on my cutter bolts. Have no problem taking them off with my HF impact.
To me its easier to take them off and sharpen.
Lots of rocks here also.

 

[gstrom99]

Don't have an angle grinder and would not want to be underneath there trying to hold one of those up to grind the blades.

You NEED to get an angle grinder. They are indispendable around here.

Oxy/acetylene torch will help loosen stuck bolts very well, if you insist on taking 'em off.

 

[gstrom99]

You must have better luck with HF angle grinders that I do. I can 'find the smoke' in them real quick. Never had one last more than 10 minutes and they all stink when they die. Smell like smoldering rice paper...lol

I've had good luck with the HF ones. My "go-to" one is an "Industrial" Black & Decker, but the HF ones hold up well as back ups and I keep one loaded with a wire brush wheel.

 

[jyoutz]

I've had good luck with the HF ones. My "go-to" one is an "Industrial" Black & Decker, but the HF ones hold up well as back ups and I keep one loaded with a wire brush wheel.

I have a friend who is a professional welder/fabricator. He buys the HF angle grinders. He says they last half as long as the better brands, but are only 25% of the cost so he’s ahead. He keeps a few backups. He said that no brand lasts him more than a year.

 

[Hazel]

The blades only have one cutting edge so balancing is not an option with the traditional blade balancer. What is typically done is you weigh each blade to be sure they weigh the same. If they don’t take additional metal from the cutting edge of the heaviest blade

 

[5030]

My only comment about the cheap HF angle grinders, I buy more than one at a time so as they expire I have a backup. Far as a long lasting 4.5. I have one of the Chief 4.5 air powered grinders which is an exact copy of the IR grinder and it's bullet proof. I use the hell out of it but then I prefer air tools anyway. HF Chief 4.5 grinder = 100 bucks. IR 4.5 angle grinder = 190 bucks. Easy choice for me. I own a weld and fab shop and they get used HARD and used everyday.