Kubota L3301 issues

[jjeff]

What I was trying to say using a implement on the three point only adds to the importance of 4wd in my case and doesn't add anything to traction when I'm using it. Maybe Instead of engaging 4wd when you need it leave it in 4wd all the time it might help with your rut problems.

 

[old and tired]

If it's that sandy, you might want to look into wide turf tires for flotation....

 

[jjeff]

In my case I noticed if I try to turn in the soft sand the front tires will sometimes push sand and I'll continue going straight digging ruts. In 4wd I turn the wheel, the tractor rides up on the sand causing minimal ruts.

 

[Reddogs]

If it's that sandy, you might want to look into wide turf tires for flotation....

Thats what I have on my John Deere 790, so using that for mine. but the other lots are a bit of a drive and with all the construction, I was getting flats while on the other lots and going through my front tires very quickly. When you drive them flat, they get ruined quick and doesnt help the rim...

 

[Tony H]

Kubota l3 series have weak front axle bearings. If you use the FEL for heavier material, the bearings will fail in a few years. Also, the hydro units have a seal that Kubota has redesigned a few times but they still fail. Gotta split the tractor to replace. This info from a guy who's all over doing maintenance ahead of schedule

 

[Smokeydog]

R1 Radials may be something to consider. It's the way to go when it comes to traction, floatation, stability, wear, rider, and so much more. Although, it's not common to be used in the US on CUT and smaller tractors so it may be hard to find for these smaller tractors.

Also when the tractor the is fitted with R1 Radials, both front and rear rims will be adjustable. The R1, just the rears are adjustable.

Here is a comparison from R1 Radial (Left tire) to conventional R1 (Right tire).

View attachment 729477 View attachment 729478

Picture speaks a thousand words.

 

[Reddogs]

In my case I noticed if I try to turn in the soft sand the front tires will sometimes push sand and I'll continue going straight digging ruts. In 4wd I turn the wheel, the tractor rides up on the sand causing minimal ruts.

I did it the first time with my Honda Accord and managed to push the sand for about half a mile before I tried to stop and sank like a stone. Learned my lesson...

 

[jyoutz]

Problem is they quoted us $15000 to clear, so I bought the Kubota...

Who did you get a quote from? A tree service? Go talk to people at your state forestry office or NRCS office. They know real forestry contractors and what a fair price is.

 

[rScotty]

Sand and more sand, then black sugar sand that takes you down to the differential..

Well, that's a difficult surface, but R4s are going to be far better than R1s there. You might even consider R3s if you can find wheels for them. In deep sand you want flotation more than traction.
rScotty

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

Hell sell the Kubota and buy a CAT D9. Go big or go home.



It is amazing how every time someone asks for help the solution is "you need a bigger tractor." Maybe that is the biggest tractor he can afford. Sure you can do it faster with a larger tractor but that does not mean the work can not be done with what he has to work with.

There is not a lot of information given as to what kind of work needs to be done but I bet a lot could be done with the L3301. Large stumps or mountains of dirt may require some bigger equipment at some point but a lot of hard work and time the L3301 will clean up a lot of a mess. After all isn't the reason for a tractor is to work it?

If I only had a bigger tractor I could pave farm the world.

I'm all in for him buying the D9

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

They have not. Economy Ls with R4s are not adjustable, R1 rims are. Grand Ls have adjustable rims for both.

I was not aware of this...learn something new every time I come on here.

 

[lennyzx11]

I’m approaching 500 hours on mine.
2015 HST L3301 bought new.
I like it. Here’s my thoughts.

The seat safety switch needed adjustment early.
The steering wheel bush got sloppy early. Warranty fix. Could have been caused by me pulling my self onboard with the wheel as a handle.

Bent one of the tie rods early trying to turn wheels in a deep rut. My mistake. It got beat/pressed back kinda straight.

I weighted the rears before pick up. If you use the FEL you must carry some rear weight anyway.

After adjusting rears out, still tippy on side hills for me. I added 3” spacers to rear. Been great since. I was pushing limits on a side sloped yard though. Very steep.

I have the hst. I don’t like having the two brakes on the right side and the hst pedal. PITA. I do like the HST. I’d rather have a twin pedal I think rather than the treadle.

The quick attach twisted slightly early on and I have to play with it to pick up attachments.
Reinforcing the cross tube will be done when I ever cut it loose and realign the quick attach(s).

Not one bit of drivetrain trouble. Ever.
Started yesterday at -11 sitting outside under open lean to here in Vermont. Sometimes spins a little slow but so do I at them temperatures.

Parking brake is easy to override in low unnoticed. (Driving with brake on) I put a warning light on the brake light switch.

Can only get off and on from left side due to FEL control. I miss jumping off both sides as needed like on my 64 Ford 2000.

Pulling the complete FEL off goes easy. Putting it back on can make you invent new swear words occasionally.

High gear in a HST is only good for running down the road. It’s powerless for any work.

Plastic grill got a stick poke in it early in life using grapple. Brush guard really doesn’t.

 

[rScotty]

Plastic grill got a stick poke in it early in life using grapple. Brush guard really doesn’t.

That's a good point. If we ever do a thread about the most common tractor injury, a stick through the grill will be in the running for 1st place.
rScotty

 

[Jstpssng]

That's a good point. If we ever do a thread about the most common tractor injury, a stick through the grill will be in the running for 1st place.
rScotty

Do you mean that I'm not the only one? I still need to fix my grill... working up underneath that cowling is a real PITA. I'll have to do it soon though, I only have 1 low beam left, when that burns out I'll REALLY be in the dark.

Parking brake is easy to override in low unnoticed. (Driving with brake on) I put a warning light on the brake light switch.

That's odd. I have a 2015 also, which already had a light on the dash for when the parking brake is on.

 

[Reddogs]

Who did you get a quote from? A tree service? Go talk to people at your state forestry office or NRCS office. They know real forestry contractors and what a fair price is.

That is the going price down here in South Florida, and you have to say, 'thank you, may have a another' when their done....If you want to make big money, bring your heavy equipment down and clear some land down here for the winter...

 

[5030]

I’m approaching 500 hours on mine.
2015 HST L3301 bought new.
I like it. Here’s my thoughts.

The seat safety switch needed adjustment early.
The steering wheel bush got sloppy early. Warranty fix. Could have been caused by me pulling my self onboard with the wheel as a handle

The upper bushing is plastic and easily replaceable, I do the same on my M9 open station all the time. Bush gets sloppy, I pull the steering wheel and replace it. Takes 5 minutes and costs 10 bucks.

Bent one of the tie rods early trying to turn wheels in a deep rut. My mistake. It got beat/pressed back kinda straight.

Never had that happen on either of mine but I don't force the steering either. I have worn out a couple toe rod ends and I replaced them with greaseable units (aftermarket).

I weighted the rears before pick up. If you use the FEL you must carry some rear weight anyway.

I run cast center rear wheels. Plenyt of ballast without hanging anything on the back.

After adjusting rears out, still tippy on side hills for me. I added 3” spacers to rear. Been great since. I was pushing limits on a side sloped yard though. Very steep.

Rule of thumb is you never traverse any slope parallel to the incline, always perpendicular to it.

I have the hst. I don’t like having the two brakes on the right side and the hst pedal. PITA. I do like the HST. I’d rather have a twin pedal I think rather than the treadle.

Mine are gear drive, hydraulic shuttle. Never care for hyrdo anything.

The quick attach twisted slightly early on and I have to play with it to pick up attachments.
Reinforcing the cross tube will be done when I ever cut it loose and realign the quick attach(s).

Interesting, sounds to me like you were flogging on it...

Not one bit of drivetrain trouble. Ever.
Started yesterday at -11 sitting outside under open lean to here in Vermont. Sometimes spins a little slow but so do I at them temperatures.

Parking brake is easy to override in low unnoticed. (Driving with brake on) I put a warning light on the brake light switch.

Bad design on Kubota's part. Both mine have a park brake light I added as well.

Can only get off and on from left side due to FEL control. I miss jumping off both sides as needed like on my 64 Ford 2000.

Pulling the complete FEL off goes easy. Putting it back on can make you invent new swear words occasionally.

You have to put the controls somewhere. My OS M9 is the same way and my cabin tractor is also left side ingress and egress, a minor inconvenience and you never jump off, you climb down. Why it has step rungs.

High gear in a HST is only good for running down the road. It’s powerless for any work.

Plastic grill got a stick poke in it early in life using grapple. Brush guard really doesn’t.

High gear in ANY transmission is only good for rapid traverse last time I checked.

Sure sounds to me like you flog the hell out of it.

 

[Reddogs]

I’m approaching 500 hours on mine.
2015 HST L3301 bought new.
I like it. Here’s my thoughts.

The seat safety switch needed adjustment early.
The steering wheel bush got sloppy early. Warranty fix. Could have been caused by me pulling my self onboard with the wheel as a handle.

Bent one of the tie rods early trying to turn wheels in a deep rut. My mistake. It got beat/pressed back kinda straight.

I weighted the rears before pick up. If you use the FEL you must carry some rear weight anyway.

After adjusting rears out, still tippy on side hills for me. I added 3” spacers to rear. Been great since. I was pushing limits on a side sloped yard though. Very steep.

I have the hst. I don’t like having the two brakes on the right side and the hst pedal. PITA. I do like the HST. I’d rather have a twin pedal I think rather than the treadle.

The quick attach twisted slightly early on and I have to play with it to pick up attachments.
Reinforcing the cross tube will be done when I ever cut it loose and realign the quick attach(s).

Not one bit of drivetrain trouble. Ever.
Started yesterday at -11 sitting outside under open lean to here in Vermont. Sometimes spins a little slow but so do I at them temperatures.

Parking brake is easy to override in low unnoticed. (Driving with brake on) I put a warning light on the brake light switch.

Can only get off and on from left side due to FEL control. I miss jumping off both sides as needed like on my 64 Ford 2000.

Pulling the complete FEL off goes easy. Putting it back on can make you invent new swear words occasionally.

High gear in a HST is only good for running down the road. It’s powerless for any work.

Plastic grill got a stick poke in it early in life using grapple. Brush guard really doesn’t.

Wow, I am seeing the same thing on what was once a immaculate tractor..
The plastic grill got poked using the grapple, the brush guard is basically to ward of cows imho...
I never even take it out of low gear range, as no power for anything in high gear and this is on DT.
I am never taking of the FEL on this one, as the JD 790 gives me enough headaches.
I can barely squeeze off with the gear shift lever in the middle, while no problem on the JD 790.
Needs a more substantial lever for the parking brake for all intents and purposes.
Drive train is ok but noisy, seems to be a Kubota 'trait'..
Quick attach has been fine so far..
I am tipping all over the place, and worse wheels digging in on one wheel in back or front. Looking at adjusting R1, buying R4s, adding weights or maybe even a backhoe to settle it down..
Havent looked at the steering to see if any issues, but will look at it today..

 

[lennyzx11]

The upper bushing is plastic and easily replaceable, I do the same on my M9 open station all the time. Bush gets sloppy, I pull the steering wheel and replace it. Takes 5 minutes and costs 10 bucks.


Never had that happen on either of mine but I don't force the steering either. I have worn out a couple toe rod ends and I replaced them with greaseable units (aftermarket).


I run cast center rear wheels. Plenyt of ballast without hanging anything on the back.


Rule of thumb is you never traverse any slope parallel to the incline, always perpendicular to it.


Mine are gear drive, hydraulic shuttle. Never care for hyrdo anything.


Interesting, sounds to me like you were flogging on it...


Bad design on Kubota's part. Both mine have a park brake light I added as well.


You have to put the controls somewhere. My OS M9 is the same way and my cabin tractor is also left side ingress and egress, a minor inconvenience and you never jump off, you climb down. Why it has step rungs.

High gear in ANY transmission is only good for rapid traverse last time I checked.

Sure sounds to me like you flog the hell out of it.

I promise I don't flog it. It is expected to work but I don't go out of my way to abuse it. I'm known to baby my equipment actually.
These were only observations from someone that has 500 plus hours on his. The QA twist is a common item that comes up on these tractors. The cross tube is marginal for any kind of side or torsional loads. I'd buy another if this one disappeared but probably a Grand L would be my choice if I could afford it then. I can now but I keep what I have.

I won't get into a discussion on the rear weight issue. It's hashed here ever so often.
My stance is that Your Cast iron wheel are weight. Yes. I have loaded rear tires that is similar.
But when you pick something up the front axle is the fulcrum holding all that weight.
With rear ballast the fulcrum is moved to the heavier duty rear axle with weight hanging off the rear to counter the weight in front of the rear axle.

 

[5030]

Do you mean that I'm not the only one? I still need to fix my grill... working up underneath that cowling is a real PITA. I'll have to do it soon though, I only have 1 low beam left, when that burns out I'll REALLY be in the dark.

With Kubota OEM lights you were in the dark anytime you turned them on. Kubota's have to have the most feeble headlamps of any tractor I've seen. Tossed mine and went LED. LED up top of the cab too. Tail lights - LED, flashers - LED.

 

[Jstpssng]

With Kubota OEM lights you were in the dark anytime you turned them on. Kubota's have to have the most feeble headlamps of any tractor I've seen. Tossed mine and went LED. LED up top of the cab too. Tail lights - LED, flashers - LED.

I've been thinking about putting LED lights in the slots for my original lights. As you say, what came on it isn't much better than putting a couple of candles on the top of the bucket.