Help me identify this noise.

[clemsonfor]

Thanks! I didn't know that.

I should tear down that axle assembly I have with its hinge pin ripped out, and put the components on Ebay. I paid $85 shipping for its replacement so it wouldn't be reasonable to offer the intact assembly, because shipping would cost too much. But selling the hub, axle shaft, etc individually might recover some of my repair cost.

There is a parted out 2000 on there now. I think the guy is a little high. Several of his parts are mislabeled. Anywayy point is that he is selling the axle shaft for $199! His parts seem a little high, I know there not made anymore. But there not really rare I just think it's people not selling them on eBay! Not sure how long it would take to sell that stuff though?

 

[clemsonfor]

These rear ends are really well built and heavy duty. If you have ever been into a pickup truck these axles are WAY thicker than the axle shifts on one of those as well as the bearings. I have only personally been in my Chevy's rear end. Its a corporate 12 bolt. But the Yanmar is way, way, way thicker than the corporate 12, bearings are also physically bigger. Shafts I know are stronger in this. Bearings are a bit different design and I have not looked up specs on them but I looked up specs on the 6209 nsk bearing. We're no way near the designed capacity of that bearing. Its no wonder they rarely go out.

 

[clemsonfor]

Just an update. I ordered parts October 1. Against my better judgement I went with USPS and didn't pay the $8 more for UPS shipping. Right now my parts are still sitting in a Ft Worth Texas distribution center or somewhere else " en route to the next destination" . They made it there Oct 1 and look to have not left since. I have a complaint filed and they are "investigating" it. These days I do not trust the USPS this happens time and time again. I bet half or more of my packages from them take 2 weeks or longer to be delivered. This one though is coming up on 3 weeks and hasn't left the first facility it made it too.

 

[clemsonfor]

Parts came in this week while I was away at a continuing Ed class. Came on time via UPS this time. My order was filed under USPS insurance as lost and reshipped by Hoye. I paid more to ship UPS this time and to hopefully have it sooner than 2 weeks the USPS seems to take when they actually deliver a package. Hopefully I will put it all back together tomorrow. I have to clean the gasket off the PTO and then I will be able to reassemble it.

 

[clemsonfor]

Ok I finially got to this yesterday. I got the axle back in the tractor and bull gear back on wheel ready to go on and torque the bull gear down.

While the bearing slipped out on the inside it would not go in more than 1/4" into the inside housing even getting what taps I could with a dead blow in there. I tried the old one same thing?? Figured it was a temperature difference thing. So I took the bearing inside put it in a sandwich bag and into the freezer it went. Used a heat gun on the inner casting to raise the temperature to somewhere over 100f and went and got the bearing out of the freezer. It slipped right into the spot no problem. Then I out the bull get roughly in place and feed the axle into the gear and thread the bolt into the axle and then use the inner nut and taps from a dead blow on the shaft to seat the shaft and outer bearing. It was not a hard go just a tight friction fit. The pic with the wrench on the seal retainer boots was when I was thinking of a way to get the inner bearing on. I pulled the whole assembly into the axle that way. Then realized that wouldn't do me any good as it bearing stuck out too far to get the gear into place. The gear needs to be in place before the axle so that they can slip together. With the other parts inside the transmission there is no room to install or remove it untill the shaft is not in the way.

Now all I need to do is clean the gasket surface on the pto unit and install it. Then hopefully no more noise.

 

[clemsonfor]

Normally we mow 24-26 times a summer and I put maybe 42 hours on the mower. This year I lost count of the times but am at 57 hours and still have three weeks to go. I mowed last Tuesday and it was so thick and ragged I had to mow again two days later and will again in a day or so. I mow at 3 1/2" and don't mow as much as my neighbors.

Yep it was a wet year. Not sure how this relates to this thread or this repair...but

 

[careyo63]

I had to leave the collar at the time. Mentioned it before. Replaced the seal and that's been at least 10Yrs. 1 drip or 2 and sometimes it doesn't drip at all. Show up after I park it. I see it on the Wheel it self and knowing what's causing it the Lip goes up!! Still have the new collar but I'm not going into it for that little bit.
My seasons winding down also. Mowed this Yr. and in the high 40's on Hrs.. I'll still have to cut 1-2 more times so I'll be in the 50's. I average 50-60Hrs. a Yr mowing also.
Not butt hurt here on the reply's and can relate to both. Good read.........

 

[sixdogs]

Yep it was a wet year. Not sure how this relates to this thread or this repair...but

Oops. Wrong thread.

Fascinating repair that you are doing, however.

 

[clemsonfor]

Oops. Wrong thread.

Fascinating repair that you are doing, however.

Haha, I suspected that might have been the case. Just messing with you.

Thanks!

 

[clemsonfor]

Here is the picture of the seal collar I installed 9 or 10 years ago. I have probably averaged 15 to 20 hours a year over that period, so around 100 hours maybe on this collar. Now this was an aftermarket one not Yanmar original so maybe it's softer? I think it's pretty hard metal though. It came from Hoye I installed it is how I know. The old one leaked and was worse than this. Would a new seal probably work, sure, but it was all part in my hand why not spend the $15 or whatever to put it all new in there. You could catch a fingernail on that groove in some spots. Those weird scratches and marks are from me prying it off with screwdrivers and prybars.

 

[ponytug]

Weird. Where does this piece go? I am having trouble visualizing how it would be spinning to grove like that.

All the best,

Peter

 

[sixdogs]

Haha, I suspected that might have been the case. Just messing with you.

Thanks!

I figured. So much for my multi tasking.

 

[careyo63]

No groves on either one of mine. Just an extremely hard seal. Micro pits was the only thing and why I left the Collar. Which I did go over with the Emory Cloth. Cleaned right up and not much Hyd. fluid loss in 10yrs. A pint or two maybe The few drips I do get if any now for some reason gets soaked up by the tire or cought by the wheel itself. No trace of it the next morning except on the wheel itself. Still best I just let it go which I had to at the time. Already have a bucket of new TSC. 303 equivalent. Never use the 3 point much. Lift the mower is about it so I'm going to 1000 hrs. before I change it. New Filter/Screen last Hyd. Serv. so I know I'm good there.

 

[clemsonfor]

Weird. Where does this piece go? I am having trouble visualizing how it would be spinning to grove like that.

All the best,

Peter

Its a wear collar that slips over the axle and the seal rides on it. Its a sacrificial surface so you don't have to replace an axle shaft that's grooved. Look a few posts up where the shaft is wrapped in blue towels, the new bearing on it and just to the outside of it by the splines you see the new one.

 

[clemsonfor]

No groves on either one of mine. Just an extremely hard seal. Micro pits was the only thing and why I left the Collar. Which I did go over with the Emory Cloth. Cleaned right up and not much Hyd. fluid loss in 10yrs. A pint or two maybe The few drips I do get if any now for some reason gets soaked up by the tire or cought by the wheel itself. No trace of it the next morning except on the wheel itself. Still best I just let it go which I had to at the time. Already have a bucket of new TSC. 303 equivalent. Never use the 3 point much. Lift the mower is about it so I'm going to 1000 hrs. before I change it. New Filter/Screen last Hyd. Serv. so I know I'm good there.

You also realize that the fluid is how your bearings are lubed as well. Oil breaks down on heat and cooling cycles. I personally would change it at a minimum of the listed interval. I change mine now a days every 5 years..maybe a bit longer .

 

[careyo63]

My first Serv. was a tell tale again the use on my 3pt.. Pickup screen was even pinch in half and looked as though someone replaced the screen at one time. Esp. compared to the new replacement. Fredricks so it's the correct one. Copper looking weld. Huge bead ran down it. The Hyd. fluid at the bottom looked as thick as a Vanilla milk shake. I am not kidding!! Been in there a while so I'm not that worried. My couple of drop drip hasn't even showed up a few times. I have to be honest there may have been a operator error involved also. I put much in it when I changed it. It started to stop when it went down to 3/4 on stick...........

 

[bmaverick]

The Hyd. fluid at the bottom looked as thick as a Vanilla milk shake. I am not kidding!! .......

Oh no. Did you flush a few times with clean diesel? It should get the vanilla milk shake mess purged from the system. Then fresh J20C spec'ed fluid.

 

[careyo63]

Walmart Distribution is not far from me. A couple miles so Local stores are well stocked with a few options. This was on sale Hydraulic Fluid Oil - Super S 303 5 Gallon Bucket - Walmart.com I'm after the JD303.... Crazy on the different options with todays needs. I flushed it a few times and a rag attached to a cloths hanger since the filter/screen was out.

 

[bmaverick]

Walmart Distribution is not far from me. A couple miles so Local stores are well stocked with a few options. This was on sale Hydraulic Fluid Oil - Super S 303 5 Gallon Bucket - Walmart.com I'm after the JD303.... Crazy on the different options with todays needs. I flushed it a few times and a rag attached to a cloths hanger since the filter/screen was out.

You do know that JD303 is 45+ years obsolete and it's BANNED in several states. JD303 was never the fluid for the Yanmars either. Yanmar and JD teamed up to engineer J20A, a remarkable 1st for them. It's gone thru enhancements to J20B and finally J20C+J20D.

JD303 BANNED, just why?
https://www.tractorlife.com/2018/06...e-the-dangers-of-303-tractor-hydraulic-fluids & https://www.nu-tierbrands.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/did_you_know_john_deere_303_thf.pdf

AND, there are Class Action lawsuits against makers of the so called JD303 out there right now. JD303 offers nearly no protection. It would explain why so many machines end up with Vanilla milk shake mix in the hydraulic system.
Smitty’s Supply, Rural King Hit with Class Action Alleging Sale of ‘Obsolete’ 303 Hydraulic Tractor Fluid

And another Class Action Lawsuit
https://wgbclaw.com/practice/303-tractor-hydraulic-fluid-class-actions & https://wgbclaw.com/class-action-lawsuits-address-damage-caused-by-tractor-hydraulic-fluid


The State of Missouri is the first to ban the sale of 303 THF, others then followed.


The Petroleum Quality Institute of America conducted a study of 303 fluids purchased from store shelves at random in 2017/2018 in order to determine their performance levels. Their results were shocking to say the least: Don't take chances with '303' Tractor Fluid - PPC Lubricants, Inc.

• 91% failed to meet the J20-C and J20-A specifications - - - (J20A Yanmar influence for YM/50 Series)
• 74% failed to meet any JDM specifications
• 60% chance of lower anti-wear protection than J20-C
• 73% chance will offer less detergency than J20-C

303 fluids are a risk. They are often poorly manufactured as the result of low-quality components at inadequate dosing rates which can lead to a host of problems:

• Insufficient startup protection in cold weather
• Excessive pump leakage at higher operating temperatures
• Inability to resist oxidation
• Tendency for oil thickening and sludge formation
• Buildup of harmful deposits

Any of the above is reason enough to steer clear of ‘303’ but several or even all is putting your equipment and operation at great risk…both of which cost money.



Just get the right stuff baby, uh huh. And that also includes the universal types that meet or exceed the J20C standard too.

 

[careyo63]

I Knew that commented it was Crazy!! Carbon, Gas,Elec cars there find something to gripe about. And on Elec. cars here's my opinion of a slight problem of having one. I think I'll keep on with the 303 since I bought a 5 gallons to change it.