ford 907 flail burning belts

[Mallard1]

I have an old ford 907 flail mower that is burning belts like crazy if it gets in taller grass. it sat unused for 10 years or so and recently started using it again. everything seems to spin free. I am using gates belts. it is a C section belt. any ideas where to start looking into this?

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

I have an old ford 907 flail mower that is burning belts like crazy if it gets in taller grass. it sat unused for 10 years or so and recently started using it again. everything seems to spin free. I am using gates belts. it is a C section belt. any ideas where to start looking into this?

Take a good look at the condition of the pullies and make sure the surfaces are all clean, smooth, aligned and free of any damage. Sitting that long they could be chewing up the belts.

 

[Sportsman762]

I would check to see if the pulley's are worn out. If the belt is touching the bottom of the pulley then the pulley is worn.

The 9828694 drive belt is a raw edge belt. Your C series belt is a wrapped belt. Wrapped belts have reduced power transmission, as the wrapping is meant to act as a clutch. Put a CX series cogged belt on and see if that helps as all cogged belts are raw edge.

Between a worn drive pulley and a wrapped belt I was having the same problems with slippage on my Alamo. I am pretty sure the wrapped belts wore out the drive pulley, as the rotor pulley was just fine.

 

[Williy]

The belts can't be sloppy or loose, should be
fairly snug if not the belt slips and they don't
last very long. Also the belts should fit just slightly
inside the edge of the pulley if the belt extends
out side of the pulley edge they have a very short
life span. Have you tried the belts that look like
they have lugs on them?

willy

 

[hayboy48]

My ford flail will pull the tractor 3 times as hard as my bush hog in grass knee deep.

 

[Sportsman762]

Have you tried the belts that look like they have lugs on them?

willy

These belts are called cogged belts and are designated by an X in the part number, so if OP is using a C series belt, they will need to try a CX series for the cogged belt. The coggs let the belt bend better so they can be used on a smaller pulley. However they are also raw edge, so they transmit the power better.

 

[Tinhack]

I'm using C belts on my Caldwell Barracuda flail. It stalled my Ford 3910 before I could disengage the PTO when I wrapped up about 100' of barbwire. If the C belts slipped, it sure wasn't much. But there's three of them. And I've been using the same ones for about 12-13 years. The Ford has about 42hp PTO.

 

[Mallard1]

Take a good look at the condition of the pullies and make sure the surfaces are all clean, smooth, aligned and free of any damage. Sitting that long they could be chewing up the belts.

The pulleys are aligned however there was some pitting where the belt rides. its not rough anymore but not a machined surface.

I would check to see if the pulley's are worn out. If the belt is touching the bottom of the pulley then the pulley is worn.

The 9828694 drive belt is a raw edge belt. Your C series belt is a wrapped belt. Wrapped belts have reduced power transmission, as the wrapping is meant to act as a clutch. Put a CX series cogged belt on and see if that helps as all cogged belts are raw edge.

Between a worn drive pulley and a wrapped belt I was having the same problems with slippage on my Alamo. I am pretty sure the wrapped belts wore out the drive pulley, as the rotor pulley was just fine.

the belt does stick out above the pulley slightly when new and rides on the sides like its supposed to. after it slips a few times it burns in and slips bad.

The belts can't be sloppy or loose, should be
fairly snug if not the belt slips and they don't
last very long. Also the belts should fit just slightly
inside the edge of the pulley if the belt extends
out side of the pulley edge they have a very short
life span. Have you tried the belts that look like
they have lugs on them?

willy

It take's a C section belt and I can't find any CX belts in a C51 i think is the size. also can find any kevlar belts either. I have looked at gates and bando.

 

[Mallard1]

Someone mentioned earlier that if your blades are hitting the ground, it causes the belts to slip and quickly overheat. Make sure your at least 2-3 inches off the ground with your cut? I believe that was his wise advise. *Adjust cut height with roller on the ground 1st.

it is set to the highest setting.

I'm using C belts on my Caldwell Barracuda flail. It stalled my Ford 3910 before I could disengage the PTO when I wrapped up about 100' of barbwire. If the C belts slipped, it sure wasn't much. But there's three of them. And I've been using the same ones for about 12-13 years. The Ford has about 42hp PTO.

this mower only uses 1 C section belt

 

[John0829]

If new belts are riding proud in the sheaves and the tension is correct the only other explanation is you are traveling to fast for the tall/thick grass you are trying to cut. Slow down or take multiple cuts to minimize the load on the belt, a little bit of pitting in the sheaves will not hurt the belt as long as it is smooth.

 

[arto98607]

I have an old ford 907 flail mower that is burning belts like crazy if it gets in taller grass. it sat unused for 10 years or so and recently started using it again. everything seems to spin free. I am using gates belts. it is a C section belt. any ideas where to start looking into this?

Since it sat unused for 10 years, have you checked if the idler assembly working as it's supposed to IE. keeping the belt tight?

I got this 917L mower little over year ago and the idler pivot was bone dry and would not move freely.

 

[Mallard1]

Since it sat unused for 10 years, have you checked if the idler assembly working as it's supposed to IE. keeping the belt tight?

I got this 917L mower little over year ago and the idler pivot was bone dry and would not move freely.


View attachment 710400

the idler on mine is not spring tightening, it has an all thread bolt that pulls the idler tight. I like the improvements they made on the 917. bushed sheaves vs splined, 2 belts vs 1 and the spring tensioner.

 

[Mallard1]

If new belts are riding proud in the sheaves and the tension is correct the only other explanation is you are traveling to fast for the tall/thick grass you are trying to cut. Slow down or take multiple cuts to minimize the load on the belt, a little bit of pitting in the sheaves will not hurt the belt as long as it is smooth.

I'll try and take a few pictures when I'm back down there and put a new belt on. most of the grass I was mowing is food plots that are planted every fall, that is the only time they are mowed. most of the grass/weeds are knee tall with a few thigh high. I was probably mowing between 3-4 mph. is this mower only designed for yard use?

 

[Sportsman762]

It take's a C section belt and I can't find any CX belts in a C51 i think is the size. also can find any kevlar belts either. I have looked at gates and bando.

Gates CX51 Tri-Power Belt, CX Section, CX51 Size, 7/8" Width, 17/32" Height, 55" Outside Circumference: Industrial V Belts: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Gates CX51 Tri-Power Belt, CX Section, CX51 Size, 7/8" Width, 17/32" Height, 55" Outside Circumference: Industrial V Belts: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Wrapped Kevelar (arimid) belts hold up better to slipping and don't burn through as quick. However they wear out the pulleys faster.

is this mower only designed for yard use?

The Alamo SHD series mowers from 72 to 96" all use a single C series 54" raw edge belt. The prior owners always used C54 belts and wore out the pulley on the upper drive. Glad to hear that your pulleys are good. The single C belt is up to transmitting over 40hp. If Alamo, who makes many of the roadside mowers finds it up to the job, you will too, once you get the right belt on it.

 

[arto98607]

the idler on mine is not spring tightening, it has an all thread bolt that pulls the idler tight. I like the improvements they made on the 917. bushed sheaves vs splined, 2 belts vs 1 and the spring tensioner.

Sounds good!

I would like to point out 917 and 917L mowers are quite different with 917L like mine being the light duty model, designed only for "side slicer" flails.

Other members here are more familiar with the 917 design.


917L:

 

[Egon]

Try some belt dressing and make sure the belt is tight.

 

[Williy]

INFO FOR RIDING LAWN MOWERS!

Spec say you should have the wheels
2 inches off the ground

willy

 

[the old grind]

I check belt tension every time I use the flail mower. New/replaced belts may loosen up at first while they seat on the pulleys. Can't check 'em too often. IMO if a flail takes more 'pull' than a rotary it's because it's mulching more than flinging what's cut. btw, I wouldn't trade hammers for knives.

 

[arto98607]

Good 40 year old Ford flail mower has a simple automatic belt tensioner that woks, no need to readjust manually!