FEL Mounted Brush Cutter Recommendations

[RutnBuck]

Good day everyone. I have 80 acres of dense forest in Oregon, full of all manner of underbrush like blackberries, poison oak, saplings and of course mature Fir, Pine, Oak and Madrone. While I have always been concerned about clearing the under growth, the extreme fire season last year really put some pressure on me to quicken my pace to clear all that "fuel". Ideally I'd like to get a forestry mulcher on a skid steer but those things are very expensive ($60k +). I had a rear mount bank flail mower on my JD4120 but it was very hard to maneuver in the woods and overall just didn't work well. In all honesty, my JD4120 is kind-a big (wide/long) to be moving through the trees, etc but it is what it is in that regard. At any rate, I recently came across the front (FEL) mounted brush cutters like the Lane Shark, Limb Ninja, Trailblazer, and Path Slayer (and I'm sure there's others). Do any of you have any experience with these and how they performed? Specifically,
1) how efficient are they . . . for example, it appears you have to get off the tractor to adjust the cutter rather than a hydraulic option that lets you adjust angles, etc. Doesn't seem like it would be efficient "in the woods" where I might have to cut flat on the forest floor one second and the next i'm up in the branches of a tree cutting vertical. Do any manufactures you know of make a hydraulic version that provides adjustments on the fly (tilt fwd, curl, tilt left, tilt right, extend right, retract to center)? Basically all the movements a bank flail mower has on the back of a tractor.
2) Please do not make this the center of the conversation because there is risk in most everything we do on a tractor but how safe are they? I have seen numerous videos showing what appears to be safe operation but those videos also are edited so there is "behind the scenes" or bloopers that occur. I assume it's prudent to wear safety glasses or a face shield, but what I'm really looking for is does anyone have any knowledge of real bad stuff happening with these front mount cutters flinging material back at the operator and causing serious injury?
3) Any suggests to help with my situation like recommendations on these FEL cutters or any other attachments that can help me in my situation?

What I have that may assist with FEL mount cutter:
- Front hydraulics for Everything Attachments Wicked Root Rake Grapple (operates by switch on joystick)
- Third Function connections that operated bank flail mower

 

[Midniteoyl]

I would probably take a few days off work (if needed) and rent a skidsteer with forestry cutter/mulcher instead.

 

[BukitCase]

RB, first off welcome to TBN; I'm just one county north of you, only rental outfit we have in albany is Sunbelt. The suggestion of "rent a skidsteer with forestry cutter/mulcher" would've been my first choice for your task too, but unless you have other options than Sunbelt (I tried) you may have better luck building something yourself (that's if you have a fairly complete fab shop at your disposal)

Best the Albany Sunbelt could offer is a tracked skid steer with a glorified brush hog, but it's snubbed down so no overhead cutting - you can cut low stuff (maybe head height, from their description) but ZERO articulation other than tilting front to back.

I don't remember seeing a Lane Shark with hydraulic position changes, but they DO offer a "low flow" version that MIGHT work if you're a bit PATIENT on how fast you wanna go.

Your tractor shows 12 gpm hydraulics, so adding hydraulic CONTROL is definitely doable - but hydraulic DRIVE will just be an exercise in futility (with the possible exception I mentioned in previous paragraph) - my old 580B has 20 gpm and a new pump, and best I can get (and still use a couple gpm for controls) would give me about 20 horsepower to drive a cutter.

I have a Samurai sickle bar cutter, don't waste your money - I may finally get mine to do SOME of what I bought it for (hedge trimming) but their claims of 1-1/2" material are mostly wishful thinking...

I also considered fabbing a bracket for a hydraulic motor to run my 6 foot flail so I could mount it on the FEL of my 580B, but even with half again the flow YOU have it only comes out to maybe HALF the power my other two tractors have via their PTO, and I can't see EVER needing less than about 30 horsepower on that implement.

You didn't mention anything about tools, welding, fab abilities, etc, but if that's an option it may be the best one for you - if so, there are a few OTHER "mad scientists" ( I KNOW I'm not the only one :=) on here that can offer suggestions... Steve

 

[dlctcg]

I have no personal experience but I did remember reading someone's post on here a little while back..

Here is a link to @sequoyah101 post from back in Jan of this year...

Modern Ag Path Slayer Brush Cutter

I don't post much and only when I think it is something I wish I had known and have something that I would have thought useful to have learned. If you are really interested in this you can go to the maker's web sites and get the manuals and more pictures. I just finished the first job with the...

www.tractorbynet.com

​

 

[Richard]

First, my official answer is I have nothing constructive to add to this conversation.

That said, I might have a nugget for consideration?

I've got a 15' flexwing mower behind my IH. The mower is hydraulically powered. Rather than use the tractor hydraulics it's got a PTO pump. That pump however, has a "speed multiplier" sandwiched between the PTO and the pump. The multiplier takes the 540 PTO and takes it up 4x speed so now, the pump is rocking & rolling.

So, if you can get something to work, all I'm trying to wonder out loud is if something like this could be beneficial to your situation?

Multiplier is the yellow part and the pump is hanging off the back.

(tractor has dual PTO, so you see the 1,000 shaft on top)

 

[RutnBuck]

RB, first off welcome to TBN; I'm just one county north of you, only rental outfit we have in albany is Sunbelt. The suggestion of "rent a skidsteer with forestry cutter/mulcher" would've been my first choice for your task too, but unless you have other options than Sunbelt (I tried) you may have better luck building something yourself (that's if you have a fairly complete fab shop at your disposal)

Best the Albany Sunbelt could offer is a tracked skid steer with a glorified brush hog, but it's snubbed down so no overhead cutting - you can cut low stuff (maybe head height, from their description) but ZERO articulation other than tilting front to back.

I don't remember seeing a Lane Shark with hydraulic position changes, but they DO offer a "low flow" version that MIGHT work if you're a bit PATIENT on how fast you wanna go.

Your tractor shows 12 gpm hydraulics, so adding hydraulic CONTROL is definitely doable - but hydraulic DRIVE will just be an exercise in futility (with the possible exception I mentioned in previous paragraph) - my old 580B has 20 gpm and a new pump, and best I can get (and still use a couple gpm for controls) would give me about 20 horsepower to drive a cutter.

I have a Samurai sickle bar cutter, don't waste your money - I may finally get mine to do SOME of what I bought it for (hedge trimming) but their claims of 1-1/2" material are mostly wishful thinking...

I also considered fabbing a bracket for a hydraulic motor to run my 6 foot flail so I could mount it on the FEL of my 580B, but even with half again the flow YOU have it only comes out to maybe HALF the power my other two tractors have via their PTO, and I can't see EVER needing less than about 30 horsepower on that implement.

You didn't mention anything about tools, welding, fab abilities, etc, but if that's an option it may be the best one for you - if so, there are a few OTHER "mad scientists" ( I KNOW I'm not the only one :=) on here that can offer suggestions... Steve

Hey BukIt . . . I'm basically a Jack of all Trades, Master of None. I can do some fab and metal work but cutting angles are all cock-eyed and welding looks like chicken poop. "Engineering is where I struggle so building a solution is not ideal. All the cutters I mentioned would work in one fashion or another, and are not "perfect" but the biggest challenge I have is maneuvering something in the woods. I have open areas that would be easy then I have real tight areas . . . you're in the area...you know how overgrown these Oregon forests are!!

Limb Ninja brochure shows an offset cutter called the Flip Deluxe Model that has what appears to be hydraulic operation from the drivers seat, however I'm struggling to find any further explanation or videos of its operation. It may boil down to simply getting something CLOSE to what I need and then taking care of the rest with my Stihl FS240 bike handle brush whacker.

 

[RutnBuck]

First, my official answer is I have nothing constructive to add to this conversation.

That said, I might have a nugget for consideration?

I've got a 15' flexwing mower behind my IH. The mower is hydraulically powered. Rather than use the tractor hydraulics it's got a PTO pump. That pump however, has a "speed multiplier" sandwiched between the PTO and the pump. The multiplier takes the 540 PTO and takes it up 4x speed so now, the pump is rocking & rolling.

So, if you can get something to work, all I'm trying to wonder out loud is if something like this could be beneficial to your situation?

Multiplier is the yellow part and the pump is hanging off the back.

(tractor has dual PTO, so you see the 1,000 shaft on top)

View attachment 704242

Richard . . . thanks for the advice. Many of the cutters I have looked at have the option for an external or auxiliary hydraulics tank that mounts to the 3pt. While added cost, it makes the cutter more self-contained and a much simpler tool.

 

[RutnBuck]

I would probably take a few days off work (if needed) and rent a skidsteer with forestry cutter/mulcher instead.

A buddy of mine has suggested the same thing and I can get a large machine for a week for around $4500 but 80 acres is ALOT and I'm a rookie so by the time all is said and done, I estimate it'd take me at least 3 weeks (or more) which equates to close to $18k if considering gas also. While that is way shy of the low end of a forestry mulcher at $60k, I'd still like to have something to maintain the property after the heavy lifting is done.

Have you heard of the Vantrac 4500 w/tough cut deck? It looks interesting and might work in my situation. the small form factor certainly would work in my woods, although I think I saw it only handles 1" brush. That could be a problem.

 

[RutnBuck]

I have no personal experience but I did remember reading someone's post on here a little while back..

Here is a link to @sequoyah101 post from back in Jan of this year...

Modern Ag Path Slayer Brush Cutter

I don't post much and only when I think it is something I wish I had known and have something that I would have thought useful to have learned. If you are really interested in this you can go to the maker's web sites and get the manuals and more pictures. I just finished the first job with the...

www.tractorbynet.com

​

Thanks . . . that rules out the Path Slayer!!

 

[jeff9366]

I have 80 acres of dense forest in Oregon, full of all manner of underbrush like blackberries, poison oak, saplings and of course mature Fir, Pine, Oak and Madrone.

What I have: (Deere 4120 = 3,700 pounds bare tractor weight.)
- Front hydraulics for Everything Attachments Wicked Root Rake Grapple (operates by switch on joystick)

I would consider a FEL grapple as the primary attachment for clearing brush using a 3,700 pound bare weight compact tractor, knowing that eighty acres would take maybe 1,000 operator hours. Burning would be part of clearing. Can you burn in Lane County, Oregon?

At any rate, I recently came across the front (FEL) mounted brush cutters like the Lane Shark, Limb Ninja, Trailblazer, and Path Slayer.

These attachments are utterly unsuitable for clearing eighty acres.

If you feel pressured for time your best alternative is to call in a commercial clearing company operating medium weight forestry munchers. Not a cheap option, but you have to balance the cost of commercial forestry mulching against value impairment from a major fire. The operating stations of the tracked forestry mulching equipment will be well armored.

I speculate that the FULL cost of operating your tractor in clearing is around $30 per hour, valuing operator time at '0'. So clearing your eighty acres yourself might cost out at $30 X 800 engine hours = $24,000. Just a soft number to consider as part of the cost equation.



For those reading here with only three or four similar acres to clear consider a Ratchet Rake attached to the FEL bucket and a Field Cultivator AKA "All Purpose Plow" on the Three Point Hitch.

Front-End Loader - Ratchet Rake // Today

I had a snarled mass of wild grape vines and brush near a gate. Decided I should clear it today, before everything emerged from dormancy. Photo #1 Ratchet Rake on bucket. Downward oriented teeth make this attachment excellent for pulling brush and light grading, but you cannot dig a hole...

www.tractorbynet.com

Dirt Dog - All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator REVIEW + PICTURES

Dirt Dog All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator Dirt Dog Model APP 66-5 Total Width 66", Working Width 62", Five Tines, Weight 284 Pounds, Paid $835.00 (2010) Field Cultivator: A Three Point Hitch mounted, secondary tillage implement, used to perform operations such as soil aeration...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[jeff9366]

Have you heard of the Vantrac 4500 w/tough cut deck? It looks interesting and might work in my situation. Although I think I saw tough cut deck only handles 1" brush.

I have 80 acres of dense forest in Oregon to clear of underbrush like blackberries, poison oak, saplings and of course mature Fir, Pine, Oak and Madrone.

The primary market for Ventrac and Steiner equipment is golf courses, though they market to municipalities and residential customers. Ventrac and Steiner forward mount implements are driven by rubber belts. Excellent equipment for golf courses.

You need tracked equipment for eighty acres unless you have months to clear with your Deere 4120 tractor and grapple.

Burning would be part of clearing with a tractor. Can you burn in Lane County, Oregon?

You are over estimating what light weight equipment can accomplish.
You are underestimating the operator hazard involved in this volume of brush reduction.

 

[BukitCase]

Jeff, as I mentioned I'm one county north of RB - BOTH counties' governments seem to be populated by control freaks, so I doubt Lane county is much different than Linn - I get so frustrated by their over control I've been looking for a used tree service shredder. My burn pile at the moment is about 30 x 40 feet and about 9 feet high, it's been at least 3 YEARS since I was allowed to burn. The pile is over 100 feet away from ANYTHING, I have water available all around it, I keep the area around it mowed about 3/4" above "rototiller" mode....

Just to give an example of the control freak crap, I actually called the "burn ****" message center during the wet season (about 8 months here) DURING A POURING RAIN, and got the message "no backyard burning allowed" -

About 5 of my 10 acres is similar to RB's 80 acres, so in a small way ( about 5/80ths) I can empathize... Steve

 

[jeff9366]

If you and the OP cannot burn I cannot think of an alternative to hiring mulchers for eighty acres.

 

[Supraman0614]

Is it possible to rent an excavator, dig a really big hole, or several smaller ones in strategic locations, and bury the brush? It will make really nice soil in a few years. You can use the dirt from the hole(s) to make raised fire break roads through the woods. Just thinking out loud.

 

[RutnBuck]

I have 80 acres of dense forest in Oregon, full of all manner of underbrush like blackberries, poison oak, saplings and of course mature Fir, Pine, Oak and Madrone.

What I have: (Deere 4120 = 3,700 pounds bare tractor weight.)
- Front hydraulics for Everything Attachments Wicked Root Rake Grapple (operates by switch on joystick)

I would consider a FEL grapple as the primary attachment for clearing brush using a 3,700 pound bare weight compact tractor, knowing that eighty acres would take maybe 1,000 operator hours. Burning would be part of clearing. Can you burn in Lane County, Oregon?

At any rate, I recently came across the front (FEL) mounted brush cutters like the Lane Shark, Limb Ninja, Trailblazer, and Path Slayer.

These attachments are utterly unsuitable for clearing eighty acres.

If you feel pressured for time your best alternative is to call in a commercial clearing company operating medium weight forestry munchers. Not a cheap option, but you have to balance the cost of commercial forestry mulching against value impairment from a major fire. The operating stations of the tracked forestry mulching equipment will be well armored.

I speculate that the FULL cost of operating your tractor in clearing is around $30 per hour, valuing operator time at '0'. So clearing your eighty acres yourself might cost out at $30 X 800 engine hours = $24,000. Just a soft number to consider as part of the cost equation.



For those reading here with only three or four similar acres to clear consider a Ratchet Rake attached to the FEL bucket and a Field Cultivator AKA "All Purpose Plow" on the Three Point Hitch.

Front-End Loader - Ratchet Rake // Today

I had a snarled mass of wild grape vines and brush near a gate. Decided I should clear it today, before everything emerged from dormancy. Photo #1 Ratchet Rake on bucket. Downward oriented teeth make this attachment excellent for pulling brush and light grading, but you cannot dig a hole...

www.tractorbynet.com

Dirt Dog - All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator REVIEW + PICTURES

Dirt Dog All Purpose Plow / Field Cultivator Dirt Dog Model APP 66-5 Total Width 66", Working Width 62", Five Tines, Weight 284 Pounds, Paid $835.00 (2010) Field Cultivator: A Three Point Hitch mounted, secondary tillage implement, used to perform operations such as soil aeration...

www.tractorbynet.com

Jeff . . . yes I can burn in Lane county, at least up until they close the season which is around this time of year. While I do burn, I hate it. While I have 80 acres, I struggle with enough area to have multiple burn piles. I currently have only two spots and when I strat them, I have enough fuel to burn all day and into the night. I don't like having open flames at night though so I stop feeding it early in the evening. As soon as the piles are gone, it takes no more than a couple hours and I have huge piles again. And that just with clearing all the dead fall I have laying around using my grapple.

Unsuitability . . . I know that ANY tool I buy as a homeowner will have its limitations and I make purchases based on that knowledge. For example, the FEL mounted cutter I know will not be the one-stop-shop implement I need to clear. I understand I'll also have to put some more manual labor behind my Stihl FS240. My thoughts are, "can I get something good enough to take care of the bulk of the job...the areas of thick blackberry, vines and scotch broom". If i can get bulk areas done, make some path ways, etc...I'd be happy!!

The problem I have with the root rake is that it does not get everything out by the roots. We have some very stuborn vines that wrap themselves up through the trees and they simply slide through the rakes. I have tried the root rake method with my grapple. Granted, the "teeth" are wider apart, but the concept is the same.

 

[RutnBuck]

Is it possible to rent an excavator, dig a really big hole, or several smaller ones in strategic locations, and bury the brush? It will make really nice soil in a few years. You can use the dirt from the hole(s) to make raised fire break roads through the woods. Just thinking out loud.

It is possible but given the clearing I've done already, I'd have to have a REALLY big hole!

 

[RutnBuck]

What do you all think of this FORAX GP40 . . . https://www.forax.ca/uploads/1/3/6/7/136794484/gp40.pdf

 

[BukitCase]

Looks interesting; any idea of cost? Probably have to call for quote, + it's in New Brunswick, so duties/shipping might be a be-atch... Steve

 

[jeff9366]

I can burn in Lane county, until they close the season which is around this time of year.

While I do burn, I hate it. I have two spots and when I start burning I have enough fuel to burn all day and into the night. I don't like having open flames at night so I stop feeding it early in the evening.

Start with a burn pit.

The burn pit in the photo is about 40" deep. The berm is about 8'.

What is removed from the pit goes on the berm.

Grass grows continuously on the far side of the berm. Intermittently on the fire side of the berm. Grass roots prevent berm from sliding into the
pit.

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[LouNY]

Interesting but with only a 40" width it would be slow.
There other mulching heads of 72" need more hydraulics then any small tractor has but they do mention
a power pack which I'm assuming would be a 3point mounted pump and volume tank for hydraulics
which would be a nice combination.