Anyway to adjust bucket level indicator?

[Machinewars]

My bucket level indicator at level still has about 2 inches over the top. I don’t see how to adjust it. Is it meant to be cut flush at level?

 

[the old grind]

There's surely something simple going on. I've owned some that were more or less 'precise' but IMO 'close counts'. Got pics?

 

[DK35vince]

I cut mine flush at level

 

[Midniteoyl]

My bucket level indicator at level still has about 2 inches over the top. I don’t see how to adjust it. Is it meant to be cut flush at level?

They are meant to be cut flush.. However, might I recommend using different colored 'band' (paint, tape, etc) to mark level for your different implements since thay are all at a different level, usually? Like a red line for your bucket, blue for your forks, yellow for the grapple, etc.. Then mark the top center of each implement with the corresponding color so you can see it from the seat.

Obviously if 2 or 3 are close enough you mark them the same color.

 

[ranger danger]

Use differant colored heat shrink tape to mark level for differant front implements.

 

[5030]

Use differant colored heat shrink tape to mark level for differant front implements.

EXACTLY and what I do.

 

[Machinewars]

Thank you! I haven’t thought of different implements having different levels.

 

[the old grind]

If it's a rod sticking out of a tube temporary marks may wear off soon, but cross-holes could be drilled in the same locations. File or grind grooves in the rod to hold paint longer? I had a tube-type with a slash cut at the top of it and little slop o'all. (NH 7308) There was just enough 'tweak' between the rod's end being at the top or bottom of the slash. IMO newer NH CUT indicators are crap & too sloppy. (T-110L, other millennials) I plan on copying the older style and refitting two of my NH FELs.

 

[arcadelt]

I use tape too to mark different positions that I value.

 

[Amvcane]

My bucket indicator is a tube and rod. I had the same issues you have, and did not want to cut the rod. I put a piece of 3/4" pex with a notch cut out on the tube. With the bucket on the ground and level adjust the pex so the rod is even with the end. The notch in the pex is so you can see how far below level the rod/bucket tip is.

 

[kantuckid]

Mine works fine as I know where it is in relation to my bucket lip or forks.

 

[Looking4new]

I have only the bucket on the loader, so I cut the rod 1/4" longer than the tube. That works good for me.

 

[MossyDell]

Question for those of you who use a bucket level indicator frequently. If I add one, I wonder how to deal with my bucket issue of going a little too high or too low when picking up mulch? I use the decal on the bucket, now. And I am almost always on a slope when scooping. My mulch pile is on a 15-20% slope while my dirt pile is on a sorta level spot.

With mulch, going in with the bucket flat on the ground and appearing level, per the decal, I am apt to dig into soil. Nudging up the bucket is apt to leave 1-2" of mulch. Lately what I am trying is to put the bucket flat and level, per the decal, slightly nudge it up and/or slightly raise the lip (curl).

For such uses, or just for my newbie abilities, would it be best to make "level" on an indicator actually .5-1" high? So that when the bucket read level, you could just go. Of course, I might leave a lot of mulch? Maybe I should not worry about 1" left until the end and back drag.

I just have a feeling I'll be monkeying with an indicator as much as I do now, getting "level" and then inching the bucket up, going too high, and then nudging it back down . . . It wouldn't save much if any time.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Question for those of you who use a bucket level indicator frequently. If I add one, I wonder how to deal with my bucket issue of going a little too high or too low when picking up mulch? I use the decal on the bucket, now. And I am almost always on a slope when scooping. My mulch pile is on a 15-20% slope while my dirt pile is on a sorta level spot.

With mulch, going in with the bucket flat on the ground and appearing level, per the decal, I am apt to dig into soil. Nudging up the bucket is apt to leave 1-2" of mulch. Lately what I am trying is to put the bucket flat and level, per the decal, slightly nudge it up and/or slightly raise the lip (curl).

For such uses, or just for my newbie abilities, would it be best to make "level" on an indicator actually .5-1" high? So that when the bucket read level, you could just go. Of course, I might leave a lot of mulch? Maybe I should not worry about 1" left until the end and back drag.

I just have a feeling I'll be monkeying with an indicator as much as I do now, getting "level" and then inching the bucket up, going too high, and then nudging it back down . . . It wouldn't save much if any time.

That's what a rake is for. Rake the last bit into the bucket. Helpers work great for this.

 

[the old grind]

I've always moved snow with FELs (550' d'way + parking, barn/garage access, etc, 20 yrs) but often leave too much or scrape up gravel. It seemed that even with my best indicator (NH 7308 of yore) that .5-1" of perfection was difficult to parse. A member brought up 'Edge Tamers' and I now put three on a bucket every Winter. (5-10 min)

No more gravel on the lawn, and clearing a section of that for UPS to turn around is a few quick passes to clear a ~40' x 40' area with grass showing through but none picked up and piled. Getting the bucket 'level' for that is now far easier, and snow removal time has been reduced considerably with less trial & error to tilt the lip 'just right' as I go.

That said, ETs make up for imprecision when 'leveling' the bucket to scoop any loose mat'l. They've saved me a lot of raking aggregates into the bucket and no more scooping up what's under a pile (& unwanted) of pea rock, CC, or CL. They're not just for Winter and I no longer fuss that I have three FELs with sloppy level-indicators. I'll fix 'em someday but the urgency just isn't there anymore.

 

[Tractorman46]

Sorry, a bit late to this post but I would endorse The Old Grind's remark re the Edge Tamers. I've had mine for 5 years and they work really well. We don't get much snow down here so I've not had to use them for that but they get a really good run out in the autumn for picking up leaves in the bucket after I've blown them into heaps - and boy do I have leaves to pick up.
To level the bucket I just file a groove in the rod and from experience I can make small adjustments to compensate for the ground.

 

[the old grind]

To level the bucket I just file a groove in the rod and from experience I can make small adjustments to compensate for the ground.

Great idea for a longer rod. I had one BLI that worked well with a slash cut on the tube. (NH 7308). That allowed me to tweak. Seems it'd be easier to put notch or two for that on the rod than to trim it's length.

 

[Boss 302]

Yup, that's what I did cut a piece of CPVC pipe to length, and it fits tight over existing sleeve.

 

[Lee Robinson]

When using a bucket, I have found it easier to just look at the top of the bucket. The flat spot on top is parallel (or very close to parallel) with the bottom of the bucket.

 

[bunyip]

My bucket indicator is a tube and rod. I had the same issues you have, and did not want to cut the rod. I put a piece of 3/4" pex with a notch cut out on the tube. With the bucket on the ground and level adjust the pex so the rod is even with the end. The notch in the pex is so you can see how far below level the rod/bucket tip is.
View attachment 701142

Mine is similar but a longer tube with a slot with notches cut for different implements, bucket level is different to hay spike level