Just got my first tractor. Tips for mowing steep slopes?

[sandman2234]

Tallguy, are you sure the manual says to back up the hill and drive down? That is exactly opposite of what I would do. I try to keep the weight on my back wheels as much as possible.

I would drive up the hill and back down the hill always in 4WD and slow.

K5lwq,
A tractor will roll backwards very easily doing that, drive forward down a hill and back up it is the safest way! (If you have seen the animated movie "Cars", the tractor tipping scene would explain this very easily!)
David from jax

 

[TerryR]

The steepest part of my property that I mow, just past the little tree in the foreground below, is 20 to 21 degrees, according to my phone:

I make a couple of passes across the bottom of the hill to make room for turning, then mow the rest up and down.

I find 21 degrees about all I'm willing to do across the hill. Turning on that slope works, but I take it very easy.

I avoid the steeper parts just above the ditch, but I can now get most of it by cutting both above and below with my ditch and bank mower.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

I've only got one year of experience on my steep hill with my MX5400. On the steepest stuff I only drive forward downhill, generally planning to loop around the property in such a way that I have planned to be driving down/forward on the steepest parts. It's going uphill on the steepest stuff that induces the biggest pucker response for me.

I have loaded rears, my naive sense of physics tells me it's good to have those uphill, holding me down, than downhill acting as a fulcrum over which my tractor may pivot. My naive sense of physics is probably wrong.

I tend to find what is probably bogus comfort in having my rotary cutter and fel+<something> mounted, like all that low-slung far to the rear and front weight somehow assists my weight distribution to discourage end-over-end flips, and might even help me if I did start to tip (i.e. bucket/cutter would act like a front/back outrigger. Total fantasy probably.

So my only practical advise is, use 4wd all the time on the slopes, always use low gear, don't _ever_ try to change gears (or gear ranges, or whatever the L/M/H terminology is) on a slope. And if you have hydraulics like me, I actually think (in low gear) they have far better braking properties than applying the actual brake, which seems very weak for stopping the motion of almost four tons of operator and equipment. The steeper the slope, the slower I go, at least when I can't see what's under the tall growth in the form of pits and rocks. And it should go without saying, ROPS up, seatbelt on.

I have have one part of my property that's shaped like a parabolic dish. In order to apply the above principles, I definitely end up re-traversing all the stuff in the middle as I go up/down any section of the bowl. It's tedious but safe.

 

[metalbender]

Color me chicken. I would be mowing up and down on a ZT mower.

 

[LD48750]

I'm one of those that HAS lifted the front tires off the ground going up a hill.
THAT hill is now one way, down forward.

Over the years mowing the hills on my property, I have found I can mow across steeper grades then I ever thought.
Take your time and go by the seat of your pants.
When mowing, I'm ALWAYS ready to turn DOWNHILL if a wheel starts to lift.

 

[RSKY]

If you are on a tractor mowing a steep uphill driving forward I hope you have your will updated. All it will take is one unseen limb, one new washed out groundhog hole, one anything to bounce the front end a few inches, or feet, off the ground and you will go over backwards. A rear mounted mower will not save you. The tractor will fall off to one side and roll over. I found this out not on a tractor but a brand new three wheeled ATV back in my younger and dumber day.

I mow several road side ditches and banks weekly with a ZTR and the few times I have scared myself was when going uphill too fast. With most of the engine weight behind the rear drive wheel I reverse up all steep slopes.

When going across a slope always keep you foot on the downhill brake. If you feel the uphill wheel lifting off jam the downhill brake and the front of the tractor will swing downhill and the machine won't roll. Don't ask!!

I am old because I was lucky when young and dumb.

RSKY

 

[BoylermanCT]

This is why there is pachysandra. I have a couple of areas too steep to mow, so I plant pachysandra there. Not worth the risk of damage to my tractor or me.

 

[Egon]

“The belly mower won't keep you from going over.”

The mower sticks out each side, is firmly attached and has wheels on the ground At the outside edge. It will make it difficult for a side roll over.

 

[shooterdon]

I am too chicken to use a tractor on a 25* slope. But what I find "interesting" is the posted advice of how to do it. 180* apart.

If I had to do it, my little pea brain thinks backing up a slope would be safer.

IMO the best solution was planting something on steep slopes that does not need mowing.

 

[Grandad4]

The problem with mowing steep slopes is the law of averages can catch up to you. You can mow the same hillside for years without problems until one day the grass is a bit wet, you start sliding, hit a rut, and your day just got a whole bunch worse. Or some other sequence events unfolds. Even if something is 99% safe, if you do it often enough, the odds can catch you out. In those conditions it's wise to take a different approach. IMHO.

 

[oosik]

Exactly, spot on - Grandad. You keep reaching into the flames - one of these days you WILL get burned.

 

[CobyRupert]

You can image the tractor’s Center of Gravity (CG) is along center line of tractor, probably at a height 6” above the operator platform floor.
Weight added or raised above this height will make tractor more tippy.
Weight added or carried below this height will make tractor less tippy.
When the tractor tips so the location of the CG rotates over the top of the low side tire, the tractor will roll over.
Weight in FEL and kept low will lower CG and provide front end weight for more traction and less wheelie temptation.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Turns out my 1200 lb Kubota zero turn mower is far more dangerous on slopes than my tractor. Go up a slight slope and just look at it funny and it'll upend, definitely need to be careful on the hairtrigger controls to avoid unintended wheelies. Guess that's why the mower has ROPs, but basically there are parts of my lawn I can't do with it because it's too dangerous. Perhaps this year I'll improve my backward mowing technique or get some weights on the front.

 

[royyme]

There have been many people killed and injured going forward up a steep hill with a Tractor. If the tractor has good traction and power, the front will try rotate off the ground and over backwards. This is especially true with an 8N & 9N Ford Tractor.

 

[anothernewbiefarmer]

So I finally took delivery of my Kubota B2301 with underbelly mower. I've had a go at mowing our 2 acres of pasture, half of which is pretty steep (20-25 degrees). I mowed straight up and down the slope as advised, following the manual's advice to back up the slopes rather than drive head first up hill. Hitting slight depressions and lumps at that angle is enough to make the tractor feel like it's getting close to rolling over, though. It was a little scary at times.

So any tips for a newbie mowing slopes would be appreciated!

I couple of specific questions:

1. The tractor came equipped with a loader + bucket, and I also have a box blade and a rotary-tiller (not yet connected). Is it best to mow slopes with or without these attachments? I did wonder whether having the loader on the front might give it some extra front weight so I could mow forward up the hill, rather than backing up the hills. Am I correct? Also, if I put the tiller / box blade on the back and keep it low to the ground, won't this also help prevent the tractor from tipping over backwards when mowing forward up a hill?
2. Is it possible to space the wheels wider on this tractor? Is it an expensive upgrade? Would this make much off a noticeable difference to its stability on slopes?
3. If I do tip the tractor over, will the ROPS and seatbelt save me, or is there still a good chance of getting killed? Will tipping the tractor over damage the tractor / mower at all?

You want as much weight on the BACK of the tractor. And if it is so steep that you are worrying you might flip backwards, then yes reverse up the slope and then come back down again. Wheel spacing - not expensive definitely recommended. Might save your life. Do not turn around on a steep slope. It is terrifying. I've had my tractor balanced on two wheels many times and it isn't funny. If you tip over, hold onto the steering wheel. Turn off the ignition as soon as you can. Do not switch it back on for a while. ROPS should save your life. Make sure you have your seatbelt on. Tipping over could well damage the tractor.

 

[ymarianne]

So I finally took delivery of my Kubota B2301 with underbelly mower. I've had a go at mowing our 2 acres of pasture, half of which is pretty steep (20-25 degrees). I mowed straight up and down the slope as advised, following the manual's advice to back up the slopes rather than drive head first up hill. Hitting slight depressions and lumps at that angle is enough to make the tractor feel like it's getting close to rolling over, though. It was a little scary at times.

So any tips for a newbie mowing slopes would be appreciated!

I couple of specific questions:

1. The tractor came equipped with a loader + bucket, and I also have a box blade and a rotary-tiller (not yet connected). Is it best to mow slopes with or without these attachments? I did wonder whether having the loader on the front might give it some extra front weight so I could mow forward up the hill, rather than backing up the hills. Am I correct? Also, if I put the tiller / box blade on the back and keep it low to the ground, won't this also help prevent the tractor from tipping over backwards when mowing forward up a hill?
2. Is it possible to space the wheels wider on this tractor? Is it an expensive upgrade? Would this make much off a noticeable difference to its stability on slopes?
3. If I do tip the tractor over, will the ROPS and seatbelt save me, or is there still a good chance of getting killed? Will tipping the tractor over damage the tractor / mower at all?

So I finally took delivery of my Kubota B2301 with underbelly mower. I've had a go at mowing our 2 acres of pasture, half of which is pretty steep (20-25 degrees). I mowed straight up and down the slope as advised, following the manual's advice to back up the slopes rather than drive head first up hill. Hitting slight depressions and lumps at that angle is enough to make the tractor feel like it's getting close to rolling over, though. It was a little scary at times.

So any tips for a newbie mowing slopes would be appreciated!

I couple of specific questions:

1. The tractor came equipped with a loader + bucket, and I also have a box blade and a rotary-tiller (not yet connected). Is it best to mow slopes with or without these attachments? I did wonder whether having the loader on the front might give it some extra front weight so I could mow forward up the hill, rather than backing up the hills. Am I correct? Also, if I put the tiller / box blade on the back and keep it low to the ground, won't this also help prevent the tractor from tipping over backwards when mowing forward up a hill?
2. Is it possible to space the wheels wider on this tractor? Is it an expensive upgrade? Would this make much off a noticeable difference to its stability on slopes?
3. If I do tip the tractor over, will the ROPS and seatbelt save me, or is there still a good chance of getting killed? Will tipping the tractor over damage the tractor / mower at all?

I mow a slope just like this, 20-25, in front of my barn and have been doing it for years. I have a finish mower attached to the pto and keep my fel lower to the ground so that if it does tip, the fel teeth will stabilize it. It’s never happened though. My tires are weighted and spaced to the max. I didn’t add any spacers, there was just an inch or two leeway if I remember correctly. GO SLOW. And never go sideways across the hill, just up and down. You’ll get to know just where all your divots are and adjust for them.
I mow down the hill and back up. My dealer recommended that and it’s safest I feel. As a newbie though, I do agree with getting used to your tractor on flat land first. It is scary at first but with with experience you’ll be more comfortable, even on the steep hills.

 

[PaulGrim]

I have a subcompact with a 54" belly bower. I mow 1 yard that has a very steep hill. My tires are filled with fluid. I put the tractor in 4x4 and go slow. If you have the loader or box blade on and they are not almost touching the ground then that would not be good. And if they are almost touching the ground they will end up hitting the ground and tearing up the grass. I do not use anything on the front or rear of mine when mowing. Go slow!! Use 4x4.

 

[Cougsfan]

Ballast mounted low, liquid filled tires, and widening your tread width all help considerably. Widening the tread width doesn't particularly help if you are going straight up and down, but going straight up and down 100% of the time is obviously the proper thing to do but isn't the real world all the time. If you are doing hills you will get somewhat sideways on them at times. Some tractors can increase their tread width by installing the rims backwards. Going up and down doesn't scare me much, but getting sideways on a hill does. Also, if the tractor ever does start to tip, steer it down hill immediately, you can usually save it, and you will learn not to do what caused it to do that in a hurry.

 

[presnewt]

You need to look at either a Steiner or Ventrac, either one with dual wheels. They are not cheap but I would think they are the safest tractor on slopes. They have a low center of gravity and with the dual wheel kit attached they can be used on slopes up to 30 degrees. I have a steiner with their rough cut mower and it mows very well on slopes and even in low areas that stay wet. They are not a useful as a "normal" tractor at many things but they excel on hills.