Pothole theory

/ Pothole theory #1  

jmc

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SW Indiana
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Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
I read somewhere, probably on TBN, that before filling a pothole in a gravel driveway, you should scratch up the bottom of it. I hate to disturb the larger gravel in my base and it's more work. Any thoughts?
 
/ Pothole theory #2  
If you think about the concept of why a pothole started in the first place it would only make sense as loose rock would eventually push out a firmly packed driveway pothole. With that said and the part you didn't want to disturb the base, sounds like only course of correction is to add more rock on top another layer and pack it down. Never can have too much rock... What are you using river rock or rock with jagged edges?
 
/ Pothole theory #3  
What works for me is that I don't blow out the bottom of the hole; instead, I cut out the side of the pothole to give the trapped water a way to exit to the road's edge and not just sit there in the hole. I would not break up the road base. I also pile a bit more extra gravel to mound it up a bit, too.
 
/ Pothole theory #4  
I have potholes most every year. Same dam area. I've never got down to the base rock/stone in any of the potholes. Just scratch enough so what is there bonds with what I add.

Next year a couple new ones - same general area - new specific location.
 
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/ Pothole theory #5  
I filled my potholes with wet river sand. Over-fill the hole.

The wet sand is already saturated and settles nicely, displacing the accumulated moisture causing the pothole.
 
/ Pothole theory #6  
The guy that did my long gravel road said....mix in a 1/2 bag of concrete as you refill the hole.

Never tried it bu he swore by it.
 
/ Pothole theory #7  
What works best for me is to use 411 limestone (1" down to dust). I fill with 411, best if it's damp or wet, and create a slight mound. I've even filled holes that are full of water and had great success. Tamp it in place and the pot hole is gone for good. It sets up hard and stays compacted so it keeps water out.
 
/ Pothole theory #8  
All I do rough up the spot add new pack it real good.
 
/ Pothole theory #9  
It really matters WHAT you fill the hole with. If it doesn't have "fines" to pack and keep the water out... you are wasting your time.
 
/ Pothole theory #10  
And this is why I never put fines onto my 1000' gravel driveway. Zero potholes, ever. Yes, my loose stone rolls around some, and I do re-grade the whole thing a few times a year (10-15 mins of work to freshen it all up). But I cannot stand pot holes and puddles. Let the water drain!
 
/ Pothole theory #11  
If I used loose stone on my driveway (only one "flat" spot) my truck tires would never get any traction. There's a reason it's called "Hillsville"... I've seen others with flat driveways with loose stone, too noisy for me. YMMV.
 
/ Pothole theory #12  
There is a simple way to tell if you have fixed a pothole correctly...if fixed correctly a pothole won't come back...

stir it up, fill it in, pack it down and make sure water runs off the area...
 
/ Pothole theory #13  
If I used loose stone on my driveway (only one "flat" spot) my truck tires would never get any traction. There's a reason it's called "Hillsville"... I've seen others with flat driveways with loose stone, too noisy for me. YMMV.
Haha yes it is quite noisy! It's a helpful driveway alarm, at least when I am working outside. Hear a nice loud rumble-whoosh as any visitors arrive. I do feather my pedal a bit when driving my truck up the drive... easy to spin the tires.
 
/ Pothole theory #14  
Potholes develop because water can not escape. The road surface should be higher than the surrounding dirt and it needs to be trenched to move the water away.

On my ranch, my grandfather understood what it takes to make a good road. He raised the road bed up about 10 feet from the surrounding land and made good ditches the entire way. I have never seen a pot hole on that road in my life. The water never sits on the road and it's always in the ditch. Good roads have good ditches.

You can kinda see what I'm talking about, the only pictures I have on my phone at the moment.

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/ Pothole theory #15  
Potholes develop because water can not escape. The road surface should be higher than the surrounding dirt and it needs to be trenched to move the water away.

On my ranch, my grandfather understood what it takes to make a good road. He raised the road bed up about 10 feet from the surrounding land and made good ditches the entire way. I have never seen a pot hole on that road in my life. The water never sits on the road and it's always in the ditch. Good roads have good ditches.

You can kinda see what I'm talking about, the only pictures I have on my phone at the moment.

View attachment 693719
View attachment 693720
This^^^^

Potholes are the symptom of an underlying problem (poor drainage). Tackling the symptom, without addressing the underlying problem, is a fools errand.
 
/ Pothole theory #16  
Potholes develop because water can not escape. The road surface should be higher than the surrounding dirt and it needs to be trenched to move the water away.

On my ranch, my grandfather understood what it takes to make a good road. He raised the road bed up about 10 feet from the surrounding land and made good ditches the entire way. I have never seen a pot hole on that road in my life. The water never sits on the road and it's always in the ditch. Good roads have good ditches.

You can kinda see what I'm talking about, the only pictures I have on my phone at the moment.

View attachment 693719
View attachment 693720
There is an old saying about driveways.
The three most important things about driveways are: DITCHES...DITCHES...DITCHES!
 
/ Pothole theory #19  
So all I need to do is have the drive 10' higher, and have good drainage?
I'd go 15 feet up, just to be safe. Should only take about a couple hundred dozer hours and 50-60 tri-axle dump loads of fill. Easy weekend job. I mean, you don't want any pot holes, right?
 
 
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