Kohler Engine Oil

[Leo Rabon]

I have a 2011 Cub Cadet GT2000 (purchased new) with a 20HP Kohler Command engine. Has roughly 400 hours of use after 10 seasons with an oil change each season (averaging 40 hrs use). I have used the Kohler brand 10W30 oil (conventional) as recommended by Kohler for the Command Engine without any problems at all. It does not use any oil. Spring is coming up and I will change the oil soon.

1. I have been seeing some blurps on the internet regarding the Kohler brand 10W30 conventional oil as "NO LONGER AVAILABLE" with the exception on current stock on hand at suppliers. The bottles now state Kohler engine oil (Semi-Synthetic 10W30).
2. Have seen a statement by someone that says they contacted Kohler about this and were advised that the old Kohler 10W30 was Semi-Synthetic but was not listed on the label.
3. Some have said just to use the new Semi-Synthetic and don't worry about engines with a lot of hours on them as they would be fine.

I really liked the Kohler engine oil. It had a high ZDDP content, I used it in very hot weather, 95 degree without any burnoff.

I WOULD SINCERELY ANY THOUGHTS TO MY QUESTIONS LISTED BELOW.
THANK YOU

Questions for those that may know or have experience on this matter to reply.
1. Was the old Kohler 10W30 oil (Semi-Synthetic)?
2. If it was not, would the Kohler semi synthetic 10W30 have any negative consequences on that 20 HP Command after 400 hours of conventional oil use?
3. If yes to question 2 (negative consequences) I plan to switch to Shell Rotella 15W40. It does not get that cold where I am and I don't get on the mower for anything if the outside temp is under 50 degrees. Just fall leaf cleanup. What are your thoughts on Shell Rotella 15W40?

 

[tomplum]

1. I don't believe it was. 2. No, that would be a good oil. 3. I wouldn't. Would it hurt anything plus 50 degrees? Likely not. Kohler wanted you to stick w/ 10w30 on a Command due to the hydraulic lifters. They did make allowances to say that SAE 30 could be used with ambient temps 50 and up a few years back. Their large Command had notes that 20W50 could be used to lessen oil consumption. In your case I would either use the new Kohler or another brand of 10W30 small engine oil that would be comparable to the old Kohler oil if you had concerns with the synthetic blend. I use Kinetics. Briggs, Deere have it readily available too.

 

[RandyT]

Kohler has replaced the old traditional 10w30 oil with a new synthetic blend 10w30. I wouldn't worry about the new oil just go ahead and use it in place of the old 10w30.

 

[RalphVa]

Engines are engines, and oil is oil. Stuff like 0w30 and 5w30 were not available when your Kohler engine was made and owners manual written. Use dino, mix or synthetic 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30. If mix or synthetic, just run longer on the change length. Synthetic can go 2 or 3 times or hours of a dino oil. Mix or blend somewhere in between. The basic oil is virtually the same. Blends or synthetic have fewer ppm levels of contaminants than dino oils. Synthetics have NO contaminants and NO wax. Blends somewhere in between.

I've switched an old Gravely Kohler engine to synthetic, and it quit using oil.

Switched an old Benz diesel to synthetic. Used the same 1 qt/2,000 miles like with dino but less fuel with synthetic (less viscous on startup).

I know all this because I worked as a chemical engineer in the lube oil industry for 31 years.

Ralph

 

[tibadoe]

You will be fine using the "newer brand" kohler oil. Main thing is that you keep it changed out on a regular schedule.

 

[MossRoad]

Engines are engines, and oil is oil. Stuff like 0w30 and 5w30 were not available when your Kohler engine was made and owners manual written. Use dino, mix or synthetic 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30. If mix or synthetic, just run longer on the change length. Synthetic can go 2 or 3 times or hours of a dino oil. Mix or blend somewhere in between. The basic oil is virtually the same. Blends or synthetic have fewer ppm levels of contaminants than dino oils. Synthetics have NO contaminants and NO wax. Blends somewhere in between.

I've switched an old Gravely Kohler engine to synthetic, and it quit using oil.

Switched an old Benz diesel to synthetic. Used the same 1 qt/2,000 miles like with dino but less fuel with synthetic (less viscous on startup).

I know all this because I worked as a chemical engineer in the lube oil industry for 31 years.

Ralph

His engine is barely 10 years old. Multi grade oil has been around since the 1950's. Synthetic oil since the 70's.

 

[def38]

Just a reminder, Kohler doesn't make engine oil. I would not use 15w-40 oil in the Kohler or my B&S V2 Intek engine. I would use Supertech 5W-30 or 10w-30 synthetic in either.

 

[Leo Rabon]

Just a reminder, Kohler doesn't make engine oil. I would not use 15w-40 oil in the Kohler or my B&S V2 Intek engine. I would use Supertech 5W-30 or 10w-30 synthetic in either.

Thanks to all for taking the time to respond to my questions. Good information. I just did not want to press my luck to far as I hope my Kohler will live a few more years.

 

[def38]

Air cooled engines benefit from synthetics due to the improved Noack score and the ability to resist heat. Also, most synthetics do a better job of cleaning and reducing sludge. If your Kohler is an OHV design, keep the valve lash on spec and use a bit of fuel system cleaner with PEA to reduce carbon buildup. My 12 year old B&S 724CC Intak V2 has original plugs and starts cold or hot after about 3 revolutions of the starter. I use Supertech or Mobil1 5-30. I change it annually.

BTW, I met John Kohler and his family years ago when sailing on the Great Lakes ore boats. They were passengers. Liked his toilets...had one of his generators in my first motorhome. Tough single that made a lot of noise.

 

[tomplum]

Air cooled engines benefit from synthetics due to the improved Noack score and the ability to resist heat. Also, most synthetics do a better job of cleaning and reducing sludge. If your Kohler is an OHV design, keep the valve lash on spec and use a bit of fuel system cleaner with PEA to reduce carbon buildup. My 12 year old B&S 724CC Intak V2 has original plugs and starts cold or hot after about 3 revolutions of the starter. I use Supertech or Mobil1 5-30. I change it annually.

BTW, I met John Kohler and his family years ago when sailing on the Great Lakes ore boats. They were passengers. Liked his toilets...had one of his generators in my first motorhome. Tough single that made a lot of noise.

The Kohler family and their community have interesting history. Kohler Wisconsin was always a nice side trip when you are in the area. If they still have, they have a design center for mainly the plumbing side of things which showcased bath and kitchens and was great place to get ideas.

 

[MoKelly]

The Kohler family and their community have interesting history. Kohler Wisconsin was always a nice side trip when you are in the area. If they still have, they have a design center for mainly the plumbing side of things which showcased bath and kitchens and was great place to get ideas.

So the same Kohler family had the engines and the bath fixtures businesses? I never knew that fact.

MoKelly

 

[Sberry]

The oil in air cooled engines can go a long time. No coolant contamination. Long as the carb doesn't flood oil can be near lifetime service. A change doesn't hurt once in a while but there is no magic pixie dust in any of it.

 

[tibadoe]

Don't use the Kohler brand name oil but I do change all my small engines' oil out annually. Some are twice a year if I need to change the weight.

 

[Leo Rabon]

Don't use the Kohler brand name oil but I do change all my small engines' oil out annually. Some are twice a year if I need to change the weight.

Hello Joe: Thanks for your response. I started out using the Kohler (branded) oil when I bought my mower in 2011. It was a 20HP Kohler Command that required 10W30 oil due to hydraulic lifters. I looked at the specs for their 10W30 oil and saw that it was also rated for diesel engines (thus more ZDDP) which I thought was a good thing for that small engine. Several years ago I researched and found out (then) that the Kohler branded oil was actually blended and packaged by a company called Warren Oil out of Dunn, NC (which has expanded greatly over the years). Like many other products that are private label, most are packaged by someone else. Don't know if Warren Oil still blends and packages Kohler oil or not. The new replacement for the Kohler 10W30 Conventional oil: Kohler 10W30 Semi-Synthetic oil states (in Red on the bottle) "Extra Zinc Added For Long Durability". The engine has over 400 hrs on it and I have heard stories about not changing from conventional oil to synthetic after a lot of hours on the engine. Also heard that it did not matter. Well, I am going to find out this summer. I bought the Kohler 10W30 Semi Synthetic and will change it in the spring. If it starts burning oil, (does not now), heck I change every year with about 40 hrs each season) I will drain it and put Rotella 10W30 conventional in it. At my age, I am hoping that engine and mower will make it on through with me and I think it will be ok. No leaks now. Thanks again. Leo Rabon

 

[tibadoe]

..............No leaks now. Thanks again. Leo Rabon

I would think you would be OK with switching to syn oil. I have a WheelHorse 314 I purchased almost 22 years ago. Its powered by the Kohler CH14 and still going strong with 555 total hours. Have always run the super tech conv. oil 10w-30. No wear, no smoke, and purrs like a sewing machine. Keep us posted on your findings.

 

[tomplum]

The oil in air cooled engines can go a long time. No coolant contamination. Long as the carb doesn't flood oil can be near lifetime service. A change doesn't hurt once in a while but there is no magic pixie dust in any of it.

I'd say that zinc is the magic pixie dust. Burnt, sludge filled crankcases equal end of life, so in that respect your lifetime theory is correct...

 

[PILOON]

I did learn from a petroleum engineer that diesel oil had some additives that favored certain type valves and valve stems.
I seem to recall it was either non roller or non hydraulic ones.

Either way there is nothing in diesel rated oils that can harm a gas engine, or so I was told.

 

[def38]

So the same Kohler family had the engines and the bath fixtures businesses? I never knew that fact.

MoKelly

Yes, and a lot of money.

 

[def38]

Your air cooled engines need the oil that is specified by the engine manufacturer. The brand name does not matter to the engine. Many so called diesel engine oils are API rated SM as well as CJ-4 and can be used without concern in small air cooled engines. Follow the recommended viscosity specified by the manufacturer based on your ambient temperature. Diesel engine oils typically have increased levels of ZDDP which can be detrimental to catalytic exhaust systems, typically not found on our small air cooled engines. Choosing to use oils with higher than recommended viscosity can pose a danger do to higher than normal rheological forces especially at cold start. Also, not changing oils in air cooled engine (of any engine, for that matter) at specified intervals can lead to sludge, highly sheared oil (change in viscosity), reduced lubricity and high engine wear.

 

[def38]

I did learn from a petroleum engineer that diesel oil had some additives that favored certain type valves and valve stems.
I seem to recall it was either non roller or non hydraulic ones.

Either way there is nothing in diesel rated oils that can harm a gas engine, or so I was told.

As long as the engine does not have a catalytic converter.