Miter Saws

[downsizingnow48]

I got the Milwaukee cordless miter saw, but also looked closely at the Makita cordless. I have a lot of Makita cordless tools so that was my first thought. Also it cuts 12" compared to Milwaukee 8". But the Milwaukee is dual bevel which is handy on siding which is the main reason I wanted a new small saw. So ended up with the Milwaukee over the Makita. There are other cordless miter saws about 1/2 the price of the Makita and Milwaukee but I did not look at them.

 

[senecak19]

I ran both Dewalt 12 chop and sliding saws. I ended up selling the chop saw as my sliding miter does everything. The other ended up collecting dust. I didn稚 buy the matching stand for a decade after buying the first one and now that I have it, I値l never go without. Especially for trim! Home owner use a Dewalt should last you a lifetime. Parts are available too.

 

[Cliff_Johns]

Almost as important as the saw is the table or stand you use. If you have a good place to put a longer table (against a wall?) the miter saw becomes far more useful. Done, right, you can remove the saw from the table for site work. A good stand works at home or on-site.

I went the whole distance, but even a couple or three feet on one side of the saw makes the saw good deal better.

View attachment 684689

 

[dieselscout80]

You need to know what size trim you are wanting to cut.

I have a 10" sliding dual bevel miter saw that has been excellent.

However I went to cut some 6" trim verticality the other day and the saw hit before the cut was complete. That said by laying it down flat I was able to make the cut.

A 12" saw would have made the same cut with the board setting vertical.

I would always get a slider, but beware they are heavy and some what unwieldy to move without a stand.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I added a Incra cross cut gauge to my miter saw and stand. I can do fast and perfect repeat cuts up to 70". If you dont have room for a table this can be handy. Also think about the clamp. 99% of the time it is not needed. But for instance doing perfect bevel cuts on floppy 8" siding you need to hold the wood flat and tight. The standard clamps on every saw I have seen are all the same and clunky to the point of useless. Festool makes a nice quick release clamp for $90. But you can get the same functionality with a 1/2" bolt.

 

[jaydee325]

Thanks for all the input.

I've only been able to do some web research. I'm hoping to get out and kick some tires.

Between a 10" slider and a 12" single bevel compound; if either saw met my cutting requirements, which type would you choose and why?

 

[EddieWalker]

Almost as important as the saw is the table or stand you use. If you have a good place to put a longer table (against a wall?) the miter saw becomes far more useful. Done, right, you can remove the saw from the table for site work. A good stand works at home or on-site.

I went the whole distance, but even a couple or three feet on one side of the saw makes the saw good deal better.

View attachment 684689

I do most of my miter saw work off of the tailgate of my truck. It's the perfect height and the feet of the saw hook over the edge of my tailgate so it's very steady. To deal with long lengths or wood, I put a roller stand on either side of my truck to support the wood. I have 6 of them because the first two sucked, then the next two sucked, and finally I found two that have good, solid handles to tighten and loosen it when setting the height. A lot of the time, I'll have one in the street, and the other on the grass between the sidewalk and my truck, so they have to be adjusted every place that I park for the day. They also come in very handy when using my router table and my table saw!!!

I do not have this brand, I was just on Lowes site figuring out a bid for a client, when I looked for an example of what I'm talking about.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Steel-Adjustable-Rolling-Table-Saw-Stand/1000096718

 

[buck12]

I do most of my miter saw work off of the tailgate of my truck. It's the perfect height and the feet of the saw hook over the edge of my tailgate so it's very steady. To deal with long lengths or wood, I put a roller stand on either side of my truck to support the wood. I have 6 of them because the first two sucked, then the next two sucked, and finally I found two that have good, solid handles to tighten and loosen it when setting the height. A lot of the time, I'll have one in the street, and the other on the grass between the sidewalk and my truck, so they have to be adjusted every place that I park for the day. They also come in very handy when using my router table and my table saw!!!

I do not have this brand, I was just on Lowes site figuring out a bid for a client, when I looked for an example of what I'm talking about.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Steel-Adjustable-Rolling-Table-Saw-Stand/1000096718

Tailgates make a great workbench. We could have a whole thread on tailgates.

 

[Macinnis]

I recently had to get a new one...went with this and love it: 10 in. Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Cruzer Miter saw

You can set it up right against the wall, has a shadow line instead of those inaccurate lasers...really well put together saw.

 

[dieselscout80]

I added a Incra cross cut gauge to my miter saw and stand. I can do fast and perfect repeat cuts up to 70". If you dont have room for a table this can be handy. Also think about the clamp. 99% of the time it is not needed. But for instance doing perfect bevel cuts on floppy 8" siding you need to hold the wood flat and tight. The standard clamps on every saw I have seen are all the same and clunky to the point of useless. Festool makes a nice quick release clamp for $90. But you can get the same functionality with a 1/2" bolt.

Downsizingnow48, how do you like your stand for your miter box?