Chop Saw Reccomendations

/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #21  
Here are the problems I've run into with metal cutting saws.

Abrasive blade saws wander when making cuts in bigger pieces of steel. The blade will deflect slightly in the cut so you end up with a crooked cut. The abrasive saws are also extremely dirty. You have abrasive + metal dust everywhere in back of the saw. Another problem is that with large pieces, the metal heats up and hardens making the cut more difficult. You have to find the correct down pressure so the blade goes through the metal relatively quickly without overheating the metal OR deflecting from the pressure. You can make marginally accurate cuts if you're very, very careful. For miters, you have to make sure the wheel is aligned to the vise provided on the machine. I've owned two abrasive saws and neither was accurately marked or usable from the factory. I have a small 45/90 degree square and that's what I used to setup both the 45 and 90 degree angles.

Cold cut / dry cut saws. I owned one of these and the problem with it is the blades are really expensive and cutting can be problematic with some shapes so you don't damage the blade. You can chip a tooth or bend the blade quite easily and then it's about $100+ to replace the blade. With careful setup, you can make accurate cuts but when you cut small pieces or angles you can easily bend the blade or chip a tooth. For example, if you're making a cut on a piece of angle iron that requires you to cut a leg rather than across the flat, it's very easy to damage a blade. You have to do very careful setups to hold the piece in the machine's vise so it doesn't move when cutting. If it moves, you can chip a tooth on the blade or bend the blade. I have three souvenir blades hanging on my wall. The final problem with the saws is they're really made to cut steel and while they will cut other metals there are some problems associated with doing that.

Bandsaw. I finally purchased a Baileigh BS-210M horizontal bandsaw. The cut angles are accurate and repeatable. It will cut any type of metal and I've used it to cut wood and plastic. I use a variable pitch blade on it with moderate down pressure. The saw is a variable speed saw that you simply dial the blade speed into the controller. Since the down feed pressure can easily be adjusted, I have no problem making cuts on small pieces of metal, legs of angles, thick metal etc. It has a fixed vise and a swivel head, has a coolant reservoir, and the angle adjustment can be calibrated. The downside is - it's relatively expensive to buy. You also need a dedicated area as the non-portable saws are relative large and you need an area adjacent to the saw to feed the metal. Quality blades are relatively inexpensive being from about $30 to $60.

I've never used any of the smaller adjustable bandsaws or the horizontal / vertical models so I can't provide any opinion on them as I've no experience with them. I know Trajan makes small bandsaws, Jet has some smaller bandsaws, and Baileigh has the BS-127P that is a small portable model that has an adjustable angle feature. The small, portable bandsaws are in the $500 - $700 range. The horizontal / vertical Jet bandsaw is available in several models from about $500 to over $1,000 depending upon size.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #22  
Even though the OP is asking about chop saws, I'll add my vote to consider a basic bandsaw. The HF Horizontal/Vertical Bandsaw item 93762 1 HP 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw (harborfreight.com) has served me well over the past 9 or so that I've had it. Here's a post I made about it, on another thread: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...reight-tools-dont-suck-1312.html?#post5680628
It's quiet, accurate, and there are no chips or sparks flying like a chop saw. I've been using the bi-metal, made in USA, blades they sell at HF and they have been better than expected. I even use it to cut wood occasionally since the saw is handy in my barn shop.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Thanks everyone for the responses. I know for sure I don't want an abrasive just for the spark/dust/blade wandering issues associated. I was just looking at harbor freight's basic bandsaw and wondering if that would be a decent option.

Seems like a "decent" cold-cut chop saw is going to run between 450-600" and I assume I'll break a couple of blades along the way so I'm adding in another $150. If the bandsaw works decent enough it seems like it is 1/3 the cost. Every time I see them used online the video goes into time lapse which leads me to believe they run slow. This may not be the case and I'll check out your link Ford850.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #24  
Little more diggin, Fein makes tools in 3 locations, Germany, Denmark & Davenport Iowa. Iowa is the Jancy Slugger factory, Fein bought dat company. Dey do NOT make tools in Taiwan.
Fein and even Jancy make very good and very expensive tools. Dis 500 saw would be in $2500 market if dey made it. ure smell like somebody got clever and went to whoring name for $$$$$$$$. Where we see dis before?
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #25  
I briefly looked at the smaller 3-400$ bandsaws on Amazon. They look for the most part like they came from the same factory. I noted that the HF saws are popular, with a certain amount of people that actually use them mod this, do that to tweak them to be more reliable. So that information is out there already and you can decide if it is feasible for what your needs are. Maybe the same with the saws on the big A. Your logic seems sound. My cold cut was not expensive and I'm glad that I have it. Blades on anything are consumables. Someday I'll have a bandsaw. Be sure to run a thread with your experiences.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #26  
I don't know why the abrasive saw is off the table. And having said that, I like using one outside on concrete for long stuff. Then sweep up the mess. I know people who have big fab shops (with shears and big/small bandsaws) and still use an abrasive saw many times a day.

It's quick, CHEAP and it works.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #27  
I don't know why the abrasive saw is off the table. And having said that, I like using one outside on concrete for long stuff. Then sweep up the mess. I know people who have big fab shops (with shears and big/small bandsaws) and still use an abrasive saw many times a day.

It's quick, CHEAP and it works.

Well thank you for speaking up IT. You are obviously a true user and not a casual observer.

I have bandsaws...
IMG_9039.jpg
and a DRY (NOT cold) cut saw that both perform well...

IMG_9040.jpg

but I will NEVER get rid of my 35 year old Makita abrasive chop saw which I use daily.

Try cutting and clamping odd shape pieces and materials of unknown hardness in your other machines.

If I could only have one saw the abrasive chop saw would be it. Quick and dirty and cheap! LOL.

IMG_9038.jpg


Dusty and messy? Yes. Find a new hobby or buy a broom.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #28  
And you don't have to cry when it needs a new disk.

Friends and me use it mostly for tubing and angle. Cuts those quite straight. Rebar and small rod is good too. Wouldn't use it on larger solid material, as it just get's too hot.

For what it's worth. The residue from a shop saw is messy but not as nasty as the slivers from a band saw. Almost like the chop saw comes with it's own sweeping compound. lol
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations
  • Thread Starter
#29  
All valid points on the abrasive saw as well. None of you has made the decision any easier, but have all given good points :) It sounds like all three will work with their own pros/cons. I guess my cut-off wheel works too. I already own it, and the replacement discs are even cheaper. Need to think through it to see what price point works and is worth it.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #30  
Poor performance from abrasive chop saws are the result of improper use.

It is a CHOP saw and needs to be operated like one. Steady continuous pressure will cause the blade to overheat, deflect and glaze.

To use properly, chopping motions are required as opposed to a steady cut for dry and cold saws.
 
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/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #31  
All valid points on the abrasive saw as well. None of you has made the decision any easier, but have all given good points :) It sounds like all three will work with their own pros/cons. I guess my cut-off wheel works too. I already own it, and the replacement discs are even cheaper. Need to think through it to see what price point works and is worth it.

My post was certainly not intended to shed negativity on options other than an abrasive chop saw. It was merely a personal opinion based on usage.

Let budget be your guide.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #32  
Poor performance from abrasive chop saws are the result of improper use.

It is a CHOP saw and needs to be operated like one. Steady continuous pressure will cause the blade to overheat, deflect and glaze.

To use properly, chopping motions are required as opposed to a steady cut for dry and cold saws.

I guess I should of read the directions for my abrasive saw. Thanks for the info!
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #33  
All valid points on the abrasive saw as well. None of you has made the decision any easier, but have all given good points :) It sounds like all three will work with their own pros/cons. I guess my cut-off wheel works too. I already own it, and the replacement discs are even cheaper. Need to think through it to see what price point works and is worth it.
I'm in the same boat.

I use my abrasive saw in the shop that is primarily a woodworking shop. Did I mention I hate it? The dust and mess is far worse than my portaband or plasma cutter. I wish I could get more skilled in cutting other than flat pieces with my PC.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #34  
Fix de problem. I like way S Berry did with old house oil tank. Cheap and pretty easy.
 

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/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #35  
Seem to be a bit of ??? bout de saw in de link.

Scrolled down lookin for more nfo and found dis.


☆☆☆☆☆
☆☆☆☆☆3 out of 5 stars. MRagonese キ 4 months ago
Not "fine"
Putting the Fein name on this certainly baited me into buying this saw because all of the Fein tools I have are Made in Germany. Nowhere on this saw is the name Fein. The tag does say "Made in Taiwan". Talk about misleading. I've seen the name Jancy on it elsewhere. Also note there is no way to adjust the blade perpendicular to the table. Most machinery would provide some form of adjustment for that. It is what it is now and after it wears out to any degree. While the saw table and vise are better than the Dewalt, there's nothing else that strikes me as great. It cuts the same as the Dewalt. The blade has a bit of a vertical oscillation too for some reason. Overall, it was ok to keep but I do have a fair amount of disappointment

✘ No, I do not recommend this product.

Just to debunk this gentleman's opinion, the name Fein is on the saw, about 3 inches away from the hand that turns the blade on.

The name Jancy is not on the saw but that company does make the blade.

And as I said earlier, it was square out of the box, hard to improve on that.

This all make me wonder how much of it is embellished, maybe from a Dewalt employee?


saw.jpg
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #36  
Pittsburg address sort of interesting given Fein world headquarters is
C. & E. Fein GmbH
Hans-Fein-Str. 81
73529 Schwäbisch Gmünd-Bargau

URL on dat label leads to "fein" US site - different from company main site.

As I said before Fein site says company makes tools in US, Germany and Denmark. US production is Jancy product Fein owns.
Absolutely no mention of Taiwan on main site.

Might be deal like Porter Cable or Rigid or Vise Grip, got no idea and don't much care, but sure is funny business goin on, and price don't be in line wid Fein tools.

True to tell, I don't much care. Got no plan to own such a saw.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #37  
A coworker gave me his abrasive saw when he went to a dry cut. I used it for a month or so. I can't remember which brand he bought but the base is aluminum and he loves the saw other than that. Cutting metal leaves lots of shavings and the aluminum is gouged from sliding metal on the saw. So I bought the Evo and then gave away the abrasive saw. If I need to cut something with an abrasive wheel I just use my 4 1/2" grinder. For a few bucks Harbor Freight has 10 packs of wheels. I can't say I like the sharp nasty shards from the dry cut saw (most go into the chip tray) but it's a lot better than the sparks and dust from the abrasive saw. If I did lots of steel work I probably would have kept both saws.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #38  
All valid points on the abrasive saw as well. None of you has made the decision any easier, but have all given good points :) It sounds like all three will work with their own pros/cons. I guess my cut-off wheel works too. I already own it, and the replacement discs are even cheaper. Need to think through it to see what price point works and is worth it.

I have the bandsaw, an abrasive blade saw, and always keep a grinder with a cutoff wheel on it. I haven't used the abrasive saw in at least three years. If I don't use the bandsaw, I mostly use the grinder with the cutoff wheel. For some specific types of cuts and sheet metal work I use a plasma cutter. You can do a lots of work with your grinder.

I do work with repetitive cuts. The last piece I fabricated used square tubing and I had to make 48, 45 degree cuts and the pieces had to match very closely in length. I made a fixture setup for the bandsaw and the pieces came out within 0.05 for the 24 pieces (one miter on each end = 48 cuts). That's the kind of work the bandsaw makes relatively easy. It could be done on an abrasive chop saw, or dry cut saw, but not with that kind of ease or precision.

If you can do the work with a hand grinder - stick with that. If you really want a cutoff saw, an abrasive saw is a good place to start. That's what I used for 10 years until I wanted something that generated less dirt in my shop. That's when I purchased the dry cutoff saw. I used that for about three years and got disenchanted with it after I put a number of blades on it due to trying to make cuts on it that were beyond what it was really meant to do. When I started doing work with a lot of repetitive cuts, the bandsaw made more sense.

You need to evaluate the kind of work you want to do and pick the tool that will give you the most effective workflow at the price you want to pay. If you can do it with the grinder + cutoff wheel, stick with that until you get into projects where that's either too slow or doesn't give the precision you need. Then decide on the next step. The more experience you have in metal fabrication, the clearer the choice will become.
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #39  
The abrasive blade saws work good if you don't mind the hot sparks. Just get you a dressing stone for grinding wheels and when it gets loaded up just touch the wheel with it and that well clean it. And away you go again with cleaner cut and less heat.
Now I don't mean that wheel dresser with a lot of little star wheels , You want the dressing Stone !!!!
 
/ Chop Saw Reccomendations #40  
Personally if you want chop saw I would go with cold cut..... Abrasive is ok and I have one but blade will flex and cut will not be quite as accurate.....With chops saws the biggest mistake is forcing the cut, go lightly and let blade do the work....

IF you want real precision go with stationary band saw... Even cheap crap HF $279 one will give good precision if you don't abuse it and keep it tuned, of course a better machine will hold it's accuracy longer.... Biggest thing with band saw is same as chop saws, it's mostly in the blades... Most HF blades suck...

Dale
 

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