Hydraulic Filter Change Problem

[MossRoad]

WOW! Good sleuthing! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[m5040]

It would be nice to post some pics of the issue (even if we wouldn't be able to make out the cracks in the picture). I suggest using a pointer to indicate the area that cracked. I have found that if it happened to yours, it can and might happen to all.
One thing you might want to watch (this is kind of how you personally operate your machine), is how much idle time you give to your tractor. The 2 cyl Deutz has certain RPM ranges that vibrate and those ranges will vibrate different parts of your tractor. If for example, you set your throttle to extreme low and then leave the tractor to go get a coffee or a tool, parts of the tractor (like your hydraulic filter) could be shaking away the whole time. Just think about it. I added a tail pipe to my 1430 to direct exh to the rear, and if I hit a certain RPMs, it shakes a lot, I bump it up a few and smooth as asphalt.

 

[SpringHollow]

Now I will have to check mine for cracks but both of the PT1850's have this problem. If it was a hairline crack on mine, I would expect the leak to get worse as I tighten unless the crack is just within the seal area. Kudos for finding the crack.

The leak would not be in hose connections etc if the leak is reduced by tightening the filter.

Ken

 

[PowerTracManiac]

Congrats! And TU for posting. I have yet to change my filter and I am dreading it for the reason u have brought up and my lack of knowledge about proper bleeding procedures.
I have contacted PT for workshops on proper service/maintenance/issues troubleshooting several times but I am not getting anywhere with that. This forum is the way. Haha

 

[joshlee]

Congrats! And TU for posting. I have yet to change my filter and I am dreading it for the reason u have brought up and my lack of knowledge about proper bleeding procedures.
I have contacted PT for workshops on proper service/maintenance/issues troubleshooting several times but I am not getting anywhere with that. This forum is the way. Haha

I wouldn't let the filter change worry ya. This thing here that happened to me was just a freak thing. When I first bought this back in 2016, someone told me to tighten it up a full turn after it was snug, so I done it. Well, when it come time remove the filter, I couldn't get it off. It took me and two other men to get the thing off. We had to poke a bar the hole way through it, because the filter was so crushed from trying to get it off with the filter wrench. Anyway, I think that is what caused this thing to crack.

 

[joshlee]

Now I will have to check mine for cracks but both of the PT1850's have this problem. If it was a hairline crack on mine, I would expect the leak to get worse as I tighten unless the crack is just within the seal area. Kudos for finding the crack.

The leak would not be in hose connections etc if the leak is reduced by tightening the filter.

Ken

Yeah, that true. Every time I re-tightened the filter there was no difference in the bubbles coming out, so I knew that the filter wasn't the problem.

 

[joshlee]

It would be nice to post some pics of the issue (even if we wouldn't be able to make out the cracks in the picture). I suggest using a pointer to indicate the area that cracked. I have found that if it happened to yours, it can and might happen to all.
One thing you might want to watch (this is kind of how you personally operate your machine), is how much idle time you give to your tractor. The 2 cyl Deutz has certain RPM ranges that vibrate and those ranges will vibrate different parts of your tractor. If for example, you set your throttle to extreme low and then leave the tractor to go get a coffee or a tool, parts of the tractor (like your hydraulic filter) could be shaking away the whole time. Just think about it. I added a tail pipe to my 1430 to direct exh to the rear, and if I hit a certain RPMs, it shakes a lot, I bump it up a few and smooth as asphalt.

Yeah, I know what your saying about the rattling at low idle. As soon as the idle is bumped up a little the rattle goes away. Have you tied any of your hoses from moving around too much?

Here is a picture where the crack is. You can the litte red dot of Permatex Thread Locker.

View attachment 678352View attachment 678353

 

[m5040]

Can't open your attachment pics for some reason.

I look at my hoses every once in a while. Not looking forward to high hours and my first oil leak. I wonder when that will be? If you ever read the write up from back in 2002 from (I think it was) Foxcon where is 1845 burnt up, now PT covers the positive battery cable inside a hyd hose and the fuel line to the pump and chafe hose in certain spots. I guess it wasn't worth covering the entire fuel hose, and the little pieces tend to move up and down the hose, so.....

 

[joshlee]

Can't open your attachment pics for some reason.

I look at my hoses every once in a while. Not looking forward to high hours and my first oil leak. I wonder when that will be? If you ever read the write up from back in 2002 from (I think it was) Foxcon where is 1845 burnt up, now PT covers the positive battery cable inside a hyd hose and the fuel line to the pump and chafe hose in certain spots. I guess it wasn't worth covering the entire fuel hose, and the little pieces tend to move up and down the hose, so.....

Yeah, I know the battery cable your talking about. I noticed early on how it shook around allot, so I attached it to the hydraulic hose that goes to the the filter housing, which is right beside it. The other hose that I wire tied was the fuel hose with the gray braided cloth. It was actually bouncing around right at the tip of the engine mount bolt, in which over a few years of that it wore some of that cloth braiding off. So, I'm glad I caught that! The wire that goes to the right head light, which runs through the back/top of the FEL Control Valve I gave yet found a good way of protecting that wire. The wire gets touched/moved by the wobble assembly right at the top of the control valve. I'm not sure what went wrong with the picture. Here, I'll try it again.

 

[SpringHollow]

For me, it is the control wire for the starter solenoid - have repaired that 3 times. The wire eventually breaks in two at the connector due to vibrations. I added extra strain relief to spread out the forces. We will see if that works any better.

Ken

 

[ponytug]

Wow! Great catch on that hairline crack. (Great photos, too!) That looks like bad luck more than anything to me. It is hard for me to imagine how large torques on the filter would cause failures there.

FWIW: I wrapped all my hoses in nylon hose wrap when I got my machine. Whether wrapping them lengthens the hose lifetime remains to be seen. I am starting to see cracks at the articulation just forward of the steering wheel.

I did zip tie loose cables and hoses to supports when I was adding some extra ground wires (front half to back half to engine block). Like Ken, I have had the starter solenoid control wire break a couple of times until I beefed up the strain relief. It has been my only problem wire on this engine. I have another diesel engine that has had a similar breakage in under 40 hours due to an unsupported wire on an oil pressure sensor.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

When my choke cable froze open on my PT425 I decided to replace it. PT recommended I change the throttle cable at the same time, since I was going through the process. That was a treat trying to pull the cables through the tunnel since they were tie-wrapped to the hydraulic and electrical cables in several places throughout the tunnel, and inside of a protective boot as well. :confused2:

My hands got a little knicked up and very greasy that day. I was amazed that despite the good cleaning I thought I did, how many multiflora rose thorns were stuck down in that tunnel between the two sections. Ouch! :laughing:

I think this spring I might bite the bullet and do a very good cleaning, disassembly, inspection and replacement program on my hoses. I see some cracks on the quick attach hoses and some of the hoses going trough the front of the unit.

 

[m5040]

Yeah, I know the battery cable your talking about. I noticed early on how it shook around allot, so I attached it to the hydraulic hose that goes to the the filter housing, which is right beside it. The other hose that I wire tied was the fuel hose with the gray braided cloth. It was actually bouncing around right at the tip of the engine mount bolt, in which over a few years of that it wore some of that cloth braiding off. So, I'm glad I caught that! The wire that goes to the right head light, which runs through the back/top of the FEL Control Valve I gave yet found a good way of protecting that wire. The wire gets touched/moved by the wobble assembly right at the top of the control valve. I'm not sure what went wrong with the picture. Here, I'll try it again.

View attachment 678446View attachment 678447

Pics came out good this time. That looks to me like a porous casting. I don't see any way that area is under stress.

My machine only has 130 hours, so not much noticeable chaffing yet.

 

[joshlee]

Yeah, I know what you guys are saying about it being a casting issue. The defect was always there, but I just think that I opened things up more for it to leak by over stressing it. I'll never know for sure, but yeah, stuff like that shouldn't leave a factory. I come to find out that cracks usually grow in size.

Moss road, your machine is about 20 years old, isn't it? It does't sound like you have many hours on it, though. Are you going to get your hoses from Power Trac or have them made up somewhere nearby?

Ponytug and Sringhollow, I'll have to take a look at that control wire to see if mine vibrates.

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, I know what you guys are saying about it being a casting issue. The defect was always there, but I just think that I opened things up more for it to leak by over stressing it. I'll never know for sure, but yeah, stuff like that shouldn't leave a factory. I come to find out that cracks usually grow in size.

Moss road, your machine is about 20 years old, isn't it? It does't sound like you have many hours on it, though. Are you going to get your hoses from Power Trac or have them made up somewhere nearby?

Ponytug and Sringhollow, I'll have to take a look at that control wire to see if mine vibrates.

Yep, 2001 model year. 600+hours. When I do get around to it, I'll do a hose inventory and get prices from PT VS a local shop. My guess is I could save quite a bit from a local shop, but would have less hassle from PT, which might make it a wash in the long run. I'm fortunate enough to be at a point in my life where I can take the road with less hassle.

 

[woodlandfarms]

One thing to keep an eye on is the filter gasket. I have left one up in there before. Caught it in new filter installation but it wasn’t obvious.

 

[MossRoad]

One thing to keep an eye on is the filter gasket. I have left one up in there before. Caught it in new filter installation but it wasn’t obvious.

I recall a similar instance on my 425. I removed the old filter and there was no gasket. For a minute, my brain said "Hmmm, that's odd looking." I think I even took a step away before the ah-ha moment. :laughing:

 

[m5040]

Yep, 2001 model year. 600+hours. When I do get around to it, I'll do a hose inventory and get prices from PT VS a local shop. My guess is I could save quite a bit from a local shop, but would have less hassle from PT, which might make it a wash in the long run. I'm fortunate enough to be at a point in my life where I can take the road with less hassle.

Boy I don't see it going any other way. Buy them all from PT, then put one on at a time. I couldn't see taking a few off, driving to hyd shop and having them made, drive back and install then repeat. I guess if your smart, you could take them all off at once and have a empty machine, then try to route and place them as before. The first few will go through the tunnel easy...

 

[MossRoad]

Boy I don't see it going any other way. Buy them all from PT, then put one on at a time. I couldn't see taking a few off, driving to hyd shop and having them made, drive back and install then repeat. I guess if your smart, you could take them all off at once and have a empty machine, then try to route and place them as before. The first few will go through the tunnel easy...

I've done this kind of work on machinery before. I've got two words for anyone that attempt it.

PICTURES
LABELS

:laughing:

 

[cqaigy2]

I've done this kind of work on machinery before. I've got two words for anyone that attempt it.

PICTURES
LABELS

:laughing:

Zactly. :thumbsup: