6013 vs 7014 vs 7018
- Thread starter GeneV
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GeneV
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With this plow project I just did, this was my first time really doings something with a stick welder. I learned a whole lot, and had a lot of fun. I used all sorts of rods, 6011, 6013, 7014, and 7018.
6011s for the root passes, I had quite a bit of undercut I had a hard time filling in, I dunno if it was my terrible technique or the heat was too high. So I did a bit of grinding/rewelding a few times. Actually I did that not only with the 6011. 6013 and 7014 I ground down a few times here and there because of porosity. 7018 went down real nice, but I just store that stuff in one of those "airtight" (NOT!!) plastic containers, so I dunno what to make of that rod stored like that.
The biggest problems I had was welding vertical, I kept blowing holes. I was welding vertical up. I looked at some youtube vids for pointers, finally started doing ok after turning down the heat a bit. Now I'm thinking maybe I should have been welding vertical down maybe, faster travel and letting gravity carry the pool? I tried several ways to fill in the holes I made, "texas tig" being one of them, which was pretty cool!
6011s for the root passes, I had quite a bit of undercut I had a hard time filling in, I dunno if it was my terrible technique or the heat was too high. So I did a bit of grinding/rewelding a few times. Actually I did that not only with the 6011. 6013 and 7014 I ground down a few times here and there because of porosity. 7018 went down real nice, but I just store that stuff in one of those "airtight" (NOT!!) plastic containers, so I dunno what to make of that rod stored like that.
The biggest problems I had was welding vertical, I kept blowing holes. I was welding vertical up. I looked at some youtube vids for pointers, finally started doing ok after turning down the heat a bit. Now I'm thinking maybe I should have been welding vertical down maybe, faster travel and letting gravity carry the pool? I tried several ways to fill in the holes I made, "texas tig" being one of them, which was pretty cool!
deereman75
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6010/6011 vertical down works well. For 7018 vertical up I typically use no rod angle (90° to the surface) and a slight weave back and forth between the two pieces. Little bit cooler but not much.
The real key to vertical is to just stay calm and take your time. If it starts keyholing just keep going, and spend a bit more time at the edges and less in the middle. If you try outrunning it that's when things start going wrong in a hurry.
Too much rod angle hurts. It's a common tendency to point the rod up to try and "push" the puddle up and keep it from falling out. That is actually what causes it to get away from you
The real key to vertical is to just stay calm and take your time. If it starts keyholing just keep going, and spend a bit more time at the edges and less in the middle. If you try outrunning it that's when things start going wrong in a hurry.
Too much rod angle hurts. It's a common tendency to point the rod up to try and "push" the puddle up and keep it from falling out. That is actually what causes it to get away from you
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GeneV
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Ok, I could see all that what you're saying, thanks!
70 rods have to go up. Best way is start with 3/32 then go to 1/8, the bigger the rod the harder it is to weld vertical up, it's almost like making puddle shelfs by weaving back and forth holding the sides/toes, same in mig welding....
deereman75
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Thought I'd post this after mentioning ArcTec yesterday. This is done with 223XC.
As you can see they run quite nicely. Not quite a drag rod like 7018, works best to hold a very slight gap. Bit faster freezing puddle as well.
As you can see they run quite nicely. Not quite a drag rod like 7018, works best to hold a very slight gap. Bit faster freezing puddle as well.
jaxs
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Thanks for introducing those. They might become quite popular if you find time to cut,polish,etch and post pictures showing penitration.
deereman75
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They're quite a popular and well proven rod in the right circles. Marketed primarily for repairing construction equipment. Good for welding cast steel, 4140, 1045, ect
85,000psi tensile, yet still better elongation than 7018. And no oven storage.
Their main drawback is price, around $80 a box.....
I have zero affiliation with the company, just a happy customer
85,000psi tensile, yet still better elongation than 7018. And no oven storage.
Their main drawback is price, around $80 a box.....
I have zero affiliation with the company, just a happy customer
Very nice:thumbsup: I still cant find those for sale online. How big is the box? hope its more then 10lbs.......
