Some Flexwing 15' mower questions....

[Richard]

I'm currently using an old 15' Terrain King (now owned by Alamo) hydraulic mower (no shafts, exposed moving parts other than blades) Does a nice job and leaves a nice looking field.

Been noodling over the idea of getting a newer (used) flexwing. The Rhino 4150 has caught my eye. I like the designs with the smooth deck and I much prefer a heavier duty...and, since I've got the choice on my tractor, I'd get a 1,000 pto version.

When you flip these specific units over, they don't have a traditional round stump jumper but one more shaped like a bow-tie.

I've got to presume that in my world, this is worrying about splitting hairs of concern because I'm cutting known fields and not trying to chop down Sherwood Forrest.

That said.... is the jumper on these more of a marketing gimmick or, are there any engineering benefits to the different shape? As I recall after watching one of their (sales) videos, part of the logic was this would also help pulverize a sapling which the blades would then dice up.


Now...compare that idea with one of the same sized Schulte's that can wield DOUBLE chopper blades.... they have a traditional round stump jumper but now can attach four blades per section, allowing (I suppose) "double the cutting action" Since I'm NOT cutting/chopping corn stubble but DO cut when the fields are waist high, would double blades create extra drag that a single would not cause? Would they dice things up better than the single blade?


I'm one of those 'analyzer type' who always digs into something, does research and slices something from different angles prior to any purchase (which right now, is only a contemplation!)

So am curious as to thoughts of above.

 

[ovrszd]

My JD cutter uses round pans. Don't have any experience with oval or other shapes to offer.

I use 1000rpm. Requires less tractor HP to perform similar tasks.

Any changes to blades that results in a better cut will require more HP.

I mow 1 1/4 mile of road banks. I do that with the cutter set very low so I get a pretty cut.

I mow my CRP with the cutter as high as I can lift it.

Mowing the road banks requires a lot more HP which results in a slower ground speed.

 

[Hay Dude]

My CX-15's have pans and I wouldnt mow without them. They also help with bottoming out on ground hog holes and ditches. Better option than bottoming out blades. Also, is there a possibility you take on new customers with unknown field conditions? Then youll want them
I agree with your notion that 4 blades might get bogged down in heavy wet stuff. If 2 blades work in your application, then why mess with success.

 

[Richard]

Two blades do work however, when I cut the fields I always wonder if things are getting mulched up as well as they could. Since I tend to cut the fields when they are about waist height, a lot of ripping and laying over happens. That's why I was wondering about the double blades.

Now....to be open/honest, I could probably slap a new pair of blades on this mower and substantially increase the quality of my cut. They're dull but still "squared" shape (not worn down looking like a paring knife)

I'd love to cut the fields more often (I like the place to look fairly well manicured) but time/fuel costs.... projects from the wife..... all pull me away from that.

 

[leonz]

I'm currently using an old 15' Terrain King (now owned by Alamo) hydraulic mower (no shafts, exposed moving parts other than blades) Does a nice job and leaves a nice looking field.

Been noodling over the idea of getting a newer (used) flexwing. The Rhino 4150 has caught my eye. I like the designs with the smooth deck and I much prefer a heavier duty...and, since I've got the choice on my tractor, I'd get a 1,000 pto version.

When you flip these specific units over, they don't have a traditional round stump jumper but one more shaped like a bow-tie.

I've got to presume that in my world, this is worrying about splitting hairs of concern because I'm cutting known fields and not trying to chop down Sherwood Forrest.

That said.... is the jumper on these more of a marketing gimmick or, are there any engineering benefits to the different shape? As I recall after watching one of their (sales) videos, part of the logic was this would also help pulverize a sapling which the blades would then dice up.


Now...compare that idea with one of the same sized Schulte's that can wield DOUBLE chopper blades.... they have a traditional round stump jumper but now can attach four blades per section, allowing (I suppose) "double the cutting action" Since I'm NOT cutting/chopping corn stubble but DO cut when the fields are waist high, would double blades create extra drag that a single would not cause? Would they dice things up better than the single blade?


I'm one of those 'analyzer type' who always digs into something, does research and slices something from different angles prior to any purchase (which right now, is only a contemplation!)

So am curious as to thoughts of above.

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Good morning Richard,

Perhaps a flex wing folding flail crop shredder may be a better option for you. It has a spiral hammer knife configuration on the flail mower rotor.
I have provided a link to a youtube video you could look at if you wish.


Flail mower INO Bre枴ce TRIPLEX 8?? mulching sunflover - YouTube


Another option would be the Hiniker 15 foot flail crop shredder that can be mounted on the three point hitch or towed and it can also be towed on the road with a hitch mounted on the end of the flail mower it is also equipped with road legal rear lights.

The Hiniker units do not fold but the added advantage of easily changing over to being road legal has much in its favor..

agriculture.hiniker.com/1700-shreddder/

 

[workinonit]

My JD 609 bush hog has the bow tie jumper. I don't jump a lot of stumps but it has been helpful when I've hit rocks and such the few times I have. I've never pulled a batwing bush hog but I do pull a batwing Frontier 20 foot FM.

 

[Hay Dude]

Two blades do work however, when I cut the fields I always wonder if things are getting mulched up as well as they could. Since I tend to cut the fields when they are about waist height, a lot of ripping and laying over happens. That's why I was wondering about the double blades.

Now....to be open/honest, I could probably slap a new pair of blades on this mower and substantially increase the quality of my cut. They're dull but still "squared" shape (not worn down looking like a paring knife)

I'd love to cut the fields more often (I like the place to look fairly well manicured) but time/fuel costs.... projects from the wife..... all pull me away from that.

I think you just answered your question(s). Slap a new set of blades on (or sharpen the ones you have professionally) and prepare to be amazed at the increase in cut quality.
If you brought in a new CX-15 and cut your field, it would probably look darn near like a lawn with extra clippings, IF you cut on a dry day at waist height.

 

[ovrszd]

I think cut quality, cut height and ground speed are tightly connected. My old cutter with super dull blades does a great job low and slow.

 

[RickB]

Just about the worst enemy to cut quality is having the outer 2-3" of blade rounded off from wear or impacts. You can do a better job with dull blades with a square end than sharp blades with rounded off ends.

 

[Richard]

1. I've never seen a flail mower in action
2. Our fields never get as high/dense as that video
3. That was awesome

 

[Richard]

How well does a 15/20' flail follow the land contours compared to a flexwing?

I have a couple areas where my 15' has a section that scalps. I'm wondering if a flail is better for flat/flat land verses rolling hills??

 

[RickB]

How well does a 15/20' flail follow the land contours compared to a flexwing?

Not anywhere nearly as well.

 

[leonz]

How well does a 15/20' flail follow the land contours compared to a flexwing?

I have a couple areas where my 15' has a section that scalps. I'm wondering if a flail is better for flat/flat land verses rolling hills??

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Hello and good evening Richard,

A flail crop shredder like the 15-20 foot wide Hiniker shredder does not have a rear roller. The lowest shredding/mowing height is 2 inches and the rear gauge wheels maintain this mowing height when it is either a towed unit or a three point hitch mounted unit. The Model 1700 flail shredder requires a tractor with a 1,000 RPM power take off.
The model 1700 flail shredder has 4 hydraulically adjusted gauge wheels to control the shredding height.

The folding 3 section Inobrezice Dominator flail crop shredder do not use a rear roller. The Dominator model will allow a 15 degree upward angle of shredding and a minus 10 degree down angle for shredding for the outer shredder sections.

The triplex Dominator requires a row crop tractor of 130 horsepower and has the ability to allow the outer wings to follow the contour.
Both implements use rear tires adjusted hydraulically to maintain the cutting cutting height.


The 6 foot cut Hiniker crop shredder uses a CV joint on its PTO shaft to allow tighter turns during crop shredding and mowing down to two inches using either a ratchet jack or a double acting hydraulic cylinder.

 

[Rustyiron]

Richard I've only had full round pans, but your question has me thinking that at whatever rpm the blade spindle is turning at, does it really matter as generally your traveling across the obstacle anyways. The only down side I can think of is possibly having multiple impacts (of an oval shaped pan) with the stump or rock as the oval shape come on and off the rock, particularly if you were stopped over it. I have noticed that a big round pan can be distorted at 90* (1/4 turn) from the blade where it's not supported by the heavy "t" assembly that carries the blades and possibly set up a vibration that may be hard on the main seals:confused3:. An oval shape would be much closet to the "hub" or support from the center and be pretty strong.

I'd like to ask a mower question here since we've got a bunch of experienced mowers here....
I've had a bunch of "bush hog" mowers over the years, from cheap to expensive. Right now I have a 8' twin spindle Bush Hog brand HD 3pt mower where the blades have about a 2-3" drop in them from the mounting surface. I replaced them with the correct Bush Hog brand blades and in very short order, they were bent upwards and cut like crap. I've never seen this before and am thinking about just putting a flat or straight blade on. I called Messicks (where I ordered from) and never heard back from "the right guy".
FWIW it's a model 3008-2 and in the pic below are my old blades (I bought it used) and the new, uninstalled blades. i
In under 10 hours the new blades look the same.

I've never had this happen on any of at least a half dozen mowers before.

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmmmm..... Why is that happening? Makes no sense. In theory the end of the blade should pull downward. If you scalped the ground I guess the end might be forced upward because the pan wouldn't be taking part of the impact?

I always thought the large drop blades would be harder on the swivel pin. And I always thought they might pull a little easier because nothing is hitting the inner blade or pan?

 

[Rustyiron]

I can't figure it out. A good friend said after a while the centrifugal forces straighten out the blade and he'd seen it before. I really don't "buy" that one. As I said it wasn't 10 hours on brand new blades before they were straightening out and I concerned that heating and beating them back will not be the answer. These blades are not cheap and there's 2 different p/n for cw/ccw rotation. They cut "in" to each other.

 

[leonz]

Hello rustyiron,

You need to check the steel plate to see if it has any weakness/flexing
in the plate and the sides as that may be what the problem is with
causing the damaged blades.

 

[ovrszd]

I can't figure it out. A good friend said after a while the centrifugal forces straighten out the blade and he'd seen it before. I really don't "buy" that one. As I said it wasn't 10 hours on brand new blades before they were straightening out and I concerned that heating and beating them back will not be the answer. These blades are not cheap and there's 2 different p/n for cw/ccw rotation. They cut "in" to each other.

I can't quite swallow that reasoning either. But I sure don't have any other answer.

 

[ovrszd]

Hello rustyiron,

You need to check the steel plate to see if it has any weakness/flexing
in the plate and the sides as that may be what the problem is with
causing the damaged blades.

The pan is reinforced with a bar similar to a cutter without pan.

 

[Rustyiron]

Yes a very stout bar!