New garage time!

[fatjay]

Holy crap. The truss people just called and said they are delivering the trusses next friday. and i don't have the 2nd floor finished. so i called the lumber company and ordered 120 12' 2x8's and 65 sheets of plywood. i'm going with a standing seem steel roof with the 1x12" pitch and the guy said they didn't recommend pearlings with that shallow of a pitch. so he worked hte math out and said it would be $20 difference to do plywood for the roof under the steel. and it would be more secure. and i can put snow guard under the entire thing for better water proofing. And wood pricing is up 300%, so this is going to cost me.

 

[fatjay]

That cart for your saw looks pretty handy. I don’t need one but want one.

I found that sucker used on facebook marketplace for $100 i think it was, saw and caddy. collapses and rolls easily, stands up and ready to cut in seconds.

 

[ovrszd]

If it was made out of metal, I would agree with you. But since it's made out of wood, and exposed to the elements, the cable is needed.

I guess the issue here is what's expected?

I expect my gate to operate as designed for years to come. And thus, it would need a cable.

 

[dragoneggs]

I guess the issue here is what's expected?

I expect my gate to operate as designed for years to come. And thus, it would need a cable.

Agreed... need to be able to adjust to keep square. The good news is that the cable can be added later but the bad news is your tight joints won't be later.

 

[BoylermanCT]

And wood pricing is up 300%, so this is going to cost me.

You got that right! I postponed my lean to expansion on my new barn until prices come back to normal.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

My split rail fence in front has one post that sits in a pipe sleeve in the ground. I can remove the rails on both sides and the post. The guy who delivered my barn trusses exited that way. He didn’t want to have to back out, I said you can exit thru the fence.

 

[MossRoad]

At our old house, I set a section of wood fence with the 4x4 posts in 4x4 steel tubing. I could lift out the gate and the supporting section next to it.

 

[fatjay]

Made a makeshift hammer with the drill press, lathe, welder, and band saw. It's not complete, but was ready for hte job i needed it for. Installed the left side support plates. the mental joists sit on their outside channels, rendering a 2x8 moderately useless for support since it's only sitting on the outside 2". Got 2 pipe clamps and pressed the header boards together and hammered the inserts in with my new hammer, which had hard angles at the edges, but it's not in it's final form. I needed those hard edges to catch the 12ga steel plates, other hammers just breezed by.

 

[aczlan]

I'll have to search for it. I haven't been able to find anyone else doing this, have been looking for ideas but haven't been able to find any.

Topzide i'm trying to keep it a bit simpler. The idea is to have a 10k 12v winch mounted at the top, 2 12v deep cycle batteries, and a battery tender on them. They discharge during operation, then recharge when idle.

What is the height from the floor of your first floor to the floor of the second floor?
A 2000# 120V hoist is under $300 at Harbor Freight, will lift 20' (with a doubled line) and will not let the load slide back down unless the line breaks.

There are frequently walk behind electric "push around forklifts" for sale on Craigslist around me for $500 or so. One of those would let you lift up 10 ft or so depending on how it's speced out. It would occupy about a 2 ft by 2 ft area behind the mast in addition to the space taken up by the mast and the forks.
For your usage, I would probably take off the wheels and anchor it to the floor so that it doesn't move and can't tip over.

When that time comes compare winches to hoists. I believe the difference is in how they brake a load. Hoists have brakes that can hold suspended loads and winches don't. Anyhow, that's probably a discussion for another thread or further down your build, and don't want to derail your thread.

Something like this perhaps?
2000 lb. Electric Hoist with Remote Control

Aaron Z

 

[MossRoad]

What is the height from the floor of your first floor to the floor of the second floor?
A 2000# 120V hoist is under $300 at Harbor Freight, will lift 20' (with a doubled line) and will not let the load slide back down unless the line breaks.

There are frequently walk behind electric "push around forklifts" for sale on Craigslist around me for $500 or so. One of those would let you lift up 10 ft or so depending on how it's speced out. It would occupy about a 2 ft by 2 ft area behind the mast in addition to the space taken up by the mast and the forks.
For your usage, I would probably take off the wheels and anchor it to the floor so that it doesn't move and can't tip over.


Something like this perhaps?
2000 lb. Electric Hoist with Remote Control

Aaron Z

If I was gonna build a lift in my garage, I'd go to surplus center, find a long-stroke hydraulic cylinder, dig a 12" diameter hole down below the elevator base, insert a 12" PVC pipe, build a cage to hold the cylinder centered in the pipe, drop it in the tube, then build a platform and 4-corner guide rails on top of it. I'd power it with my PT425 when needed.

 

[ovrszd]

One to one ratio on a project like tbis would require a healthy pump and high capacity reservoir.

 

[MossRoad]

At my last employer, we had several freight elevators that lifted about 14'. They had large hydraulic cylinders, pulleys, and cables. They were basically two-post lifts with 10' wide by 6' deep tables. The cables and pulleys were in a reverse orientation, so that a 5' cylinder would pull 15' of cable. While that cut the cylinder lift capacity by 2/3, I think the cylinders were rated at 20,000 pounds, so the elevator had about 6000# lift capacity. NO RIDERS! signs were prominent. :laughing:

 

[MossRoad]

One to one ratio on a project like tbis would require a healthy pump and high capacity reservoir.

Area of a circle is pii X the radius squared.

For a 1.5" diameter rod, that's 8' long:
.75" x .75" X 3.14 X 96" = 170 cubic inches.

There's 231 cubic inches in a gallon.
231 = 0.74 gallons, or, about 3 quarts.

Therefore, a 1.5" rod at 8' long would displace only about 3 quarts of fluid.

No matter what diameter bore you use, if the rod is 1.5", that measurement never changes.

As you extend the cylinder, the fluid moves from the rod end to the reservoir and at the same time fluid moves from the reservoir through the pump, to the piston side of the cylinder. At full extension, your reservoir would be 3 quarts down. At full retraction, it would go back to full. A typical log splitter could power this with no problem.

My PT425 has a 10 gallon reservoir and a 2500psi pump. I'd be fine working that load as needed.

 

[fatjay]

Keep in mind eventually it'll be the only way to go between floors, so hooking a tractor up every time I wanted to go up would be a bit impractical. Also I can't damage the floor as I have a truckload of pex in the floors.

Finished installing the support plates under hte floor joists. Wish I had thought about that before hand. Pipe clamps compressed the 3 top plates so I could squeeze them in. Even so I had to hammer most of them with it compressed. I'm glad that's done and out of the way.

 

[MossRoad]

Keep in mind eventually it'll be the only way to go between floors, so hooking a tractor up every time I wanted to go up would be a bit impractical. Also I can't damage the floor as I have a truckload of pex in the floors.

Finished installing the support plates under hte floor joists. Wish I had thought about that before hand. Pipe clamps compressed the 3 top plates so I could squeeze them in. Even so I had to hammer most of them with it compressed. I'm glad that's done and out of the way.

That's the only way between floors? An elevator? Not even a pull-down stairway?

 

[fatjay]

That's the only way between floors? An elevator? Not even a pull-down stairway?

Nope. That's why I wanted it to be 12v battery opperated with battery a battery tender on it. 2 deep cycle batteries keeping it charged so I don't get stuck on the seocnd floor in the event of power outage. I suppose I could made an escape hatch that would let me get down between 2 joists. The workshop area will have an 8' ceiling over it, so it would only be a 3.5' drop from the first floor to the platform over the workshop that would primarily be used for storage. But for that to be viable, i'd better not gain any more weight, those 16" on center joists are pretty close together.

 

[lman]

The goal isn't to piss off the neighbor, it's to get as much usable space as possible. The neighbor screwed me over and cost me a fortune, so i'm pretty pissed off at him. If he had been up front about it 6 months ago before all the headache, maybe I wouldn't have considered these changes. But when you fight for something for 6 months and finally get a chance to move forward, only to have the rug pulled out from under you, you stop caring about being the nice neighbor.

I`ve always said, the only good neighbor is no neighbor. That was a factor when I bought my place.

 

[fatjay]

I`ve always said, the only good neighbor is no neighbor. That was a factor when I bought my place.

That wasn't really possible when I moved, and i'm pretty settled in at this point after 10 years. Fortunately i have 8' privacy fence on all sides of the yard and 30' arbor vitae in front of the fence.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Keep in mind eventually it'll be the only way to go between floors, so hooking a tractor up every time I wanted to go up would be a bit impractical. Also I can't damage the floor as I have a truckload of pex in the floors.

Finished installing the support plates under hte floor joists. Wish I had thought about that before hand. Pipe clamps compressed the 3 top plates so I could squeeze them in. Even so I had to hammer most of them with it compressed. I'm glad that's done and out of the way.

Oh, I guess I missed or forgot about you eliminating the stairs in your sketch in your post #25.

If it were me I'd be real concerned about "Murphy's Law" and being stuck on the second floor without an additional way down (unless I had beer and food).

I would consider installing a fixed vertical ladder to the second floor secured to the interior first floor wall maybe in a corner with a hinged hatch on the second floor?

Or maybe a fireman's pole to exit the second floor, or an opening window in the second floor wall with and emergency fire escape type chain ladder stored near the inside of the window.

Just a thought, I'm sure you will do what works for you,

KC

 

[EddieWalker]

Since floor space is so critical, I would build stairs outside the building.