Float valves useful on top n tilt??

[ctgoldwing]

I have a box blade on order to work on my gravel driveway. The only other implement I'm considering right now is a back blade for lawn grading and snow removal.
I am going to install top n tilt pistons on the 3 point. In reading other threads it isn't clear to me whether there is value in valves with float function for these attachments. Is there any negative?
Intuitively it seems to me that having the blades able to float over the terrain in a big plus.

 

[/pine]

I have a box blade on order to work on my gravel driveway. The only other implement I'm considering right now is a back blade for lawn grading and snow removal.
I am going to install top n tilt pistons on the 3 point. In reading other threads it isn't clear to me whether there is value in valves with float function for these attachments. Is there any negative?
Intuitively it seems to me that having the blades able to float over the terrain in a big plus.

Three point hitches on just about all tractors are automatically in a float mode...there is nothing holding the implement down other than its own weight...

Although I do have float positions on my rear remotes (3)...I have never found a benefit when using a box blade a rear scrape blade or a landscape rake...others have said they are of some use...some will say that it's better to have it (float) and not use it than want it and not have it...

FWIW...when grading I am constantly making minor adjustments to the hydraulic side link...

 

[BufordBoone]

I have approximately 1 mile of gravel driveway. About 3 times/yr. I use a landscape rake to pull gravel back into the drive from the sides. Following that, I use a LPGS to give it a final finish.

The float function on the right lift arm is very convenient. I set the rake at an angle to bring the gravel into the drive. I then lower the rake so that it is just about 2" above the crown. Next I put the right lift arm in float. About all that is left is to drive one mile up, turn around and do the same on the way back.

I'm very glad I have float on the lift arm.

I have not ever used float on the toplink...but I'm still learning.

 

[dlctcg]

Three point hitches on just about all tractors are automatically in a float mode...there is nothing holding the implement down other than its own weight...

Although I do have float positions on my rear remotes (3)...I have never found a benefit when using a box blade a rear scrape blade or a landscape rake...others have said they are of some use...some will say that it's better to have it (float) and not use it than want it and not have it...

FWIW...when grading I am constantly making minor adjustments to the hydraulic side link...

As /pine said... some will say better to have & not need it... I have three rear remotes with top n tilt & have not ever had the need or situation of it with my box blade, rake, or landplane... again I'm sure there are certain situations where it might be used... I just don't have the need. Oh & I'm also constantly making adjustments to my top & side links when doing grading.... (not sure how I ever graded with out TnT now that I have it)

 

[mikester]

I dont see a benefit to a floating top link other than hooking up implements- being able to move the top link by hand to get the pins lined up when off the machine.

 

[old and tired]

I prefer that my top and tilt locks into place and doesn't drift around.

 

[workinonit]

I dont see a benefit to a floating top link other than hooking up implements- being able to move the top link by hand to get the pins lined up when off the machine.

I added one to my new 5090 primarily due to the fact that I got a Quickhitch. I can hook up now and not have to get out of the cab. It is also helpful when adjusting the leveling on a 3 PH disc and blades.

 

[s219]

I rarely use float with my box blade, but once in a while it's useful. I do use it when bush hogging every time.

 

[ctgoldwing]

Thanks to all for the replies.
I think it comes down to the enema definition, "it may not help, but it can't hurt"

I'm going to get the float valves.

 

[/pine]

Something else to consider is a simple locking detent on one of the spools...this allows the use of something like a log splitter or hydraulic winch etc., etc...without having to use a bungee cord to hold the lever...

 

[mikester]

Something else to consider is a simple locking detent on one of the spools...this allows the use of something like a log splitter or hydraulic winch etc., etc...without having to use a bungee cord to hold the lever...

I wanted the locking detent on my remotes but it wasn't even an option from Kubota. Yay bungee cords...

 

[DieselBound]

I rarely use float with my box blade, but once in a while it's useful. I do use it when bush hogging every time.

Would you mind explaining how this works for you?

 

[s219]

Would you mind explaining how this works for you?

Setting the top link in float lets the bush hog pivot on uneven ground. Some bush hogs have a pivoting mechanism built into their mount to do this, but doing it from the top link is the most ideal place and gives more range of motion usually. This gives the same effect you'd get when using a chain instead of a top link, which is the old fashioned way to do it.

Here's an old thread on the topic:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/66587-flexible-top-link-bush-hog.html

 

[old and tired]

For me, instead of float, I just don't hook up the hydraulic top link for my mower. For the rare time I need to get over an obstacle, raising the mower with the left arms is enough.

 

[LD1]

I prefer that my top and tilt locks into place and doesn't drift around.

That can still be achieved with a float valve

For me, instead of float, I just don't hook up the hydraulic top link for my mower. For the rare time I need to get over an obstacle, raising the mower with the left arms is enough.

That works....unless you use a quick hitch....then you need the float, or removing the quick hitch

 

[old and tired]

That can still be achieved with a float valve....

My bad!?! :banghead: I was thinking the OP was talking about getting the "double piloted check valves" found on some hydraulic cylinders used for T-n-T!! Sorry about that!

 

[johncanfield]

I have a top and tilt on my 4720 and use it all of the time with the box blade. I extend the top link and put the rockshaft in float to groom the roads on our ranch.

 

[DieselBound]

Setting the top link in float lets the bush hog pivot on uneven ground. Some bush hogs have a pivoting mechanism built into their mount to do this, but doing it from the top link is the most ideal place and gives more range of motion usually. This gives the same effect you'd get when using a chain instead of a top link, which is the old fashioned way to do it.

Here's an old thread on the topic:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/66587-flexible-top-link-bush-hog.html

Yeah, OK, I was kind of thinking there was some reference to the "tilt" function being in float: I know about floating the top link (my cutters have the extra pivoting top link pieces- sure wish that I'd known about this setup years ago when I had an old 5' RC on my B7800!)

One of the things I was thinking about with the tilt (somehow) floating is with really uneven ground side-to-side with a wide flail (don't have a flail yet as I'm still trying to evaluate how effective I can be with it).

 

[Fallon]

I use toplink float 99% of the time when mowing. 3pt height sets the mow height & float let's the roller stay properly on the ground. Used the same strategy for a rotary cutter before moving to a flail.

I wouldn't grade without TnT, but rarely use float for grading. Mostly with the 3pt up on a finishing pass to smooth out any ridges or tracks.

Kubota rear remote valves suck bad with lots of internal leakdown. I may get a DPOV setup for my side link at some point. That will break float, but stop my impliments from dropping badly in an hour.

I do use float on both when unhitching with the QH. But I just dont use side float as much as i expected. I use top float a lot though as I mostly mow.

 

[Fallon]

Yeah, OK, I was kind of thinking there was some reference to the "tilt" function being in float: I know about floating the top link (my cutters have the extra pivoting top link pieces- sure wish that I'd known about this setup years ago when I had an old 5' RC on my B7800!)

One of the things I was thinking about with the tilt (somehow) floating is with really uneven ground side-to-side with a wide flail (don't have a flail yet as I'm still trying to evaluate how effective I can be with it).

I dont find need or value for side float on mine. Just pain from a leaky valve making it sag badly in under an hour. Sucky for roading if you dont pay attention. 87" working width Peruzzo Super Bull.

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