dnw64
Veteran Member
Cool! Very similar to the Case/Ingersoll I was mentioning from what I can see.
heavy duty tractor/mower recommendations?
- Thread starter TheYard
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Cool! Very similar to the Case/Ingersoll I was mentioning from what I can see.
two_bit_score
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2008
- Messages
- 12,699
- Tractor
- John Deere 110 TLB, Diamond C 19LPX GN trailer
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
I have an Boles HT20, it has a mowing deck and sno-blower...
It doesn't get used much anymore...
SR
It doesn't get used much anymore...
SR
BCWoodtick
Silver Member
I have the John Deere 425 garden tractor and would buy another in a heart beat. Great machine and embarrassed to say how much I have abused it and still kicking. I have the 47" front blade, 47" snowblower with 48" mower deck but they do come with a 54" mower deck as well. 18 years of abuse and have to rebuild the snow blower due to extreme abuse with heavy winters.
You should be able to find a used one in your price range.
You should be able to find a used one in your price range.
GeneV
Elite Member
I got a 26 hp craftsman garden tractor with locking differential, it was my everything tractor for a while before I got my massey. It's got a tuff forq k62 tranny. Mines the craftsman 27048, but cub cadet has basically the same tractor, not for sure on their model number. Theirs has a 54" mower deck.
I have a dozer/snow blade for it, I used to plow my driveway with it, worked fine. It's got a 50" mmm deck, gives a great cut, fairly easy to detach. I still mow certain areas with it, ones my massey tractor won't go to. You could get it for around $3k, +/- $500 or so depending on when you get it.
I have a dozer/snow blade for it, I used to plow my driveway with it, worked fine. It's got a 50" mmm deck, gives a great cut, fairly easy to detach. I still mow certain areas with it, ones my massey tractor won't go to. You could get it for around $3k, +/- $500 or so depending on when you get it.
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dnw64
Veteran Member
I've got a Husky that, according to the model number has an auto-locking differential. But, it doesn't work.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
Pretty sure they shut her down 4-5 years ago.
Gem99ultra
Elite Member
I also have the 26 hp Husqvarna - WITHOUT locking differential. I know that for sure... I drug it out twice after getting stuck this week when trying to mow on some soft soil. The only thing I know for sure is that its the last mower I buy without locking differential! That wasn't available when I bought this one, but the next one will have it for sure.
GeneV
Elite Member
I got stuck plenty on my craftsman gt even with the locking diff, but it's a hella better to have a locking diffy than not too. On my gc1710, I got stuck a few times in 4wd and the only way to get out was using the locking diff along with the 4wd.
Maast
New member
Another vote for the Husqvarna TS534XD w/ K66ELD. It's a beast and a heck of bargain for the Kawasaki engine and transmission package.
I just retired a 2013 Craftsman GT6000 that was a rebadged Husq and I had a mechanical loader on it for pretty much it's entire 1150hrs of life before the Kohler Courage blew up and I beat that poor thing to death. I rammed dirt and gravel piles as fast I could go to dig or fill the bucket, towed monster huge stacks of bricks, retaining wall blocks, pavers and log rounds on a 1200lb gorilla cart. I even used the mower deck as a makeshift box scraper for the 400ft driveway and moved a good couple dozen or so yards of gravel around with it before I got the Branson.
My ground is lumpy and bumpy and WAY too sloped in places and that frame got twisted, abused and beat to snot dang near every day. If Husq frames are prone to cracking I would have cracked mine and yet I never had a lick of problems with the frame or the towing hole getting bent, just the bloody underframe plastic bodied idler pulleys which I would have to replace every other year.
I keep hearing that Husqvarna frames are prone to cracking but I've never actually SEEN one or know anybody who has. I'm 3/4 convinced its just a smear campaign...
One of the things I like so much about my new and old mowers is the reverse mower switch, all I have to do is start it and switch it to reverse mowing and thats it, it stays there and there are no buttons or levers or anything I have to do if I want to back up and keep mowing. All the other mowers I looked w/ locking differentials had these goofy levers and buttons you have to hit to back up, and (from what I understand) they would reset if you started going forward again.
Its a little thing that makes a bigger difference than you'd think.
I just retired a 2013 Craftsman GT6000 that was a rebadged Husq and I had a mechanical loader on it for pretty much it's entire 1150hrs of life before the Kohler Courage blew up and I beat that poor thing to death. I rammed dirt and gravel piles as fast I could go to dig or fill the bucket, towed monster huge stacks of bricks, retaining wall blocks, pavers and log rounds on a 1200lb gorilla cart. I even used the mower deck as a makeshift box scraper for the 400ft driveway and moved a good couple dozen or so yards of gravel around with it before I got the Branson.
My ground is lumpy and bumpy and WAY too sloped in places and that frame got twisted, abused and beat to snot dang near every day. If Husq frames are prone to cracking I would have cracked mine and yet I never had a lick of problems with the frame or the towing hole getting bent, just the bloody underframe plastic bodied idler pulleys which I would have to replace every other year.
I keep hearing that Husqvarna frames are prone to cracking but I've never actually SEEN one or know anybody who has. I'm 3/4 convinced its just a smear campaign...
One of the things I like so much about my new and old mowers is the reverse mower switch, all I have to do is start it and switch it to reverse mowing and thats it, it stays there and there are no buttons or levers or anything I have to do if I want to back up and keep mowing. All the other mowers I looked w/ locking differentials had these goofy levers and buttons you have to hit to back up, and (from what I understand) they would reset if you started going forward again.
Its a little thing that makes a bigger difference than you'd think.
GeneV
Elite Member
On mine, you turn the key back one notch and push a button, and you could mow forward and reverse until you get off the seat. But I got sick of even that, so disabled the switch which controls it.
Maast
New member
I disabled the seat switch about 2 mins after I offloaded it at home. I get why it's there to keep idiots killing their kids/pets/etc - but it's a PITA if you have to lean way over on a slope, or stand up a bit to see better.
From what I read online is that on all the mowers if you disengage the PTO it turns off the reverse mowing and you have to hit the button/lever to re-engage it. At any rate it's just handy to not have to futz with it.
dnw64
Veteran Member
Maybe the new(er) ones. On my 2006 Husky it's a physical key position and it stays that way until you shut it off.
GeneV
Elite Member
Yup, that's how it is. On mine it was a normally open switch which gets compressed when you press the reverse pedal, which in turn shuts off the pto unless you do that whole thing with turning the key and pushing the button. I just detached it from it's location, zip tied it out of the way somewhere else. Easy fix.
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