Box Scraper JBar HD Box Blade Problems

[59ksmall]

Hello,

I purchased a JBAR HD Box Blade with my Kubota MX5800 and believe it to be defective or poorly designed/manufactured.

Problem: The rear cutting blade sits so high that I am unable to use it. With my top link fully extended (33.5" eye to eye) the rear blade comes nowhere near touching ground. (See pictures) This also makes for an extremely aggressive bite to the front cutting edge.

JBAR has not been very responsive to emails and after several phone calls, I was finally able to speak with a manager in manufacturing. I told him my issue and that I believed it to possibly be a manufacturing defect. I told him the LandPride Boxes I looked at all have parallel cutting edges so transitioning from cutting to smoothing only requires little top link adjustment.

The manager advised that the design was intentional and that it was to prevent the rear blade from catching on stumps and rocks when back-filling, preventing damage.

His solution was for me to find a longer top-link.

I am having trouble finding a top link that would be long enough and I don't believe I should need one so long.

Any advice, comments, concerns? Overall I have been disappointed with JBAR.

Thanks.

 

[Peter 315]

If you make the tube longer going from the back of the bb the to hitch , That would tilt the top link attachment toward the tractor more..

 

[Smokeydog]

Good description and photos. Don’t think the blades on my box vary that much. Agree with the dealer that pushing rearward can easily damage a yardbox and 3pt hitch. Pushing lifting stump, roots and rocks out. Had to fix and reinforce the yardbox hitch and scarifier to back plate connections. Only do light grading or loose fill going backwards now.

 

[/pine]

What happens when you raise the scarifiers and turn them up side down so they are not in play ?

 

[59ksmall]

What happens when you raise the scarifiers and turn them up side down so they are not in play ?

No change when flipped. They are not in play the way they are and are out of the way. I understand the thought behind keeping the rear blade out of the way when backing.

It appears that I would need 6-8 in more top link for the rear blade to make contact for smoothing. A 40+in top link seems excessive to me. Seems like a poor design to me.

 

[59ksmall]

If you make the tube longer going from the back of the bb the to hitch , That would tilt the top link attachment toward the tractor more..

Good idea. This look like the only practical solution. I don't believe one should have to modify a brand new implement to work properly. I am still waiting to see if JBAR will step up and provide a solution.

 

[s219]

Pictures aren't great but this looks like a very stubby box blade in terms of the front to back length.

 

[59ksmall]

Pictures aren't great but this looks like a very stubby box blade in terms of the front to back length.

Should be able to enlarge pictures by clicking on them.

 

[s219]

Should be able to enlarge pictures by clicking on them.

We know that clicking on thumbnails opens the images (standard forum behavior since the internet was invented), but the angle of the photos isn't great to judge the dimensions, the images are not very large, and the watermark gets in the way. If you can post better quality photos it might help people see the geometry of the box blade.

 

[Smokeydog]

Wonder if there are any adjustment or another set of holes for the blades? Blades have symmetrical holes? Front and back blades the same?

 

[Professor Marvel]

Is your top link in the top hole at the tractor?

 

[Smokeydog]

From your photo showing the hitch I see the lower hitch pins several inches forward compared to the top hitch point. Requiring a longer top link. My box blade, grader blade and land plane are designed where the top hitch is directly over the lower hitch points.

I had to get a longer top link after installing Pat’s quick hitch mounts.

 

[59ksmall]

Is your top link in the top hole at the tractor?

It is either the center hole or top. I will check tomorrow.

 

[oosik]

My Bush Hog ROBB has longer side panels than what is pictured. As I extend my top link, going in reverse, the entire ROBB lifts because of ground contact with these side panels. The deepest the rear facing blade can be is when the ROBB is flat on the ground. It's just another design feature to keep from making contact with an immovable object when blading in reverse.

In other words - I CAN NOT "dig" when going in reverse with my box blade. Only level & flatten. Digging is a going forward operation.

 

[geblackwell]

Smokeydog, I think that is exactly what his problem is. If you look at pictures of other box blades they line up vertically. Perhaps the brace to the top link hole could be extended.

 

[Rich B1]

A normal 3 point should have all 3 hitch holes in the same plane. That blade has the top link hole behind the lower lift arm holes. You need a longer link between the rear of the blade and the uprights for the top link.

 

[MF243RedTop]

Agree with the OP, that's a hard angle on the rear. It's a poor design... My box has about the same angle and length on either side. It doesn't take much adjustment of the top link to get either blade to scrape...

 

[59ksmall]

Agree with the OP, that's a hard angle on the rear. It's a poor design... My box has about the same angle and length on either side. It doesn't take much adjustment of the top link to get either blade to scrape...

Exactly. All I am trying to do is smooth while going forward and as of now I can only do that in reverse. If I did have a top link long enough, I think I would be worried about bending it if the front blade catches a stump while smoothing forward.

 

[59ksmall]

Photo Update.

Top link mounted to tractor on top hole.




I placed the board under the blades again, disconnected the top link and raised the box until both blades were parallel with the board and touching.



Then took a measurement and top link needs to be 36.5" long to allow both blades to touch and be in a "neutral" position. I have found a 37" cat2 top link but that doesn't give much adjustment. Thoughts????




Box Blade dimensions:






If you click on the image it will enlarge. Sorry for the water marks, I was unable to upload them from my computer.

 

[defranks]

I had a similar problem after I ordered a hydraulic top-link that was a bit too short. I just extended the connection point of the tractor using a couple of steel plates. They're bolted through the original top-link position and add a few inches. I've never had to remove them, but I could in a few minutes.