Hydraulic oil aerating in diff/trans

[grizzley30814]

Hello all,
Quick question for you gurus. I have a 1300D, runs great but has a loud knock that is a little troubling. I have changed the oil and filter on the motor. Running 15-40 in the motor. I don't believe the knock is from the crank or rods. I believe it is coming from the hydraulic pump. the fluid in the rear diff/trans is white/aerated. At first I thought it might have been water but if you put some on your fingers it will clear out and is just oil. I have a 155d manual but it isn't clear. where is the screen / filter for the hydraulics? I am going to check the screen, clean it and change the fluid and see it it gets any better/quieter. Any other ideas would be welcome also.

 

[winston1]

HYD SCREEN RUBBER GROMMET: Yanmar Tractor Parts (screen location)

I believe you also have a rubber sleeve coupling on the suction line going to your pump. Make sure it is not sucking air at that point.

 

[rScotty]

Hello all,
Quick question for you gurus. I have a 1300D, runs great but has a loud knock that is a little troubling. I have changed the oil and filter on the motor. Running 15-40 in the motor. I don't believe the knock is from the crank or rods. I believe it is coming from the hydraulic pump. the fluid in the rear diff/trans is white/aerated. At first I thought it might have been water but if you put some on your fingers it will clear out and is just oil. I have a 155d manual but it isn't clear. where is the screen / filter for the hydraulics? I am going to check the screen, clean it and change the fluid and see it it gets any better/quieter. Any other ideas would be welcome also.

If it's not leaking oil under the far side -right side- of the tractor, then in that model it's more common to have water in the transmission fluid than air. Particularly if left outside. Water enters past the shifter.

No, they don't tell you very clearly where that cleanable filter lives. If you go to the Yanmar Tractor Parts location that Winston has given you in post #2, you will see a pipe held to flange with three bolts. Now look under your right foot on the tractor - under the floor board. Look for something held on with 3 bolts to the transmission case. That's where that pipe lives, and the filter comes out when you loosen and remove that pipe from the transmission housing. Remove the 3 bolts. BTW, all the hydraulic fluid will come out at the same time if you haven't drained it yet.

Move the pipe & flange - you may have to loosen the other end of the pipe which is where Winston mentions a rubber sleeve coupling. Make sure that rubber sleeve coupling isn't split and the source of an air leak! Order a new one anyway. Now reach in the transmission and pull the filter out. If it has stringy white on it that's water. Gently clean the filter in gasoline or with soap and water.. It's basically either nylon or wire mesh about #200 mesh size.... a 2" diameter tube of mesh maybe 8 to 10 inches long with a projection on each end to fit the rubber donuts that hold the filter into place, When installing, it's easy to get it situated wrong and squash the filter. If you do, just pull it out, strighten it out and reinstall. The YM135 takes 2.5 quarts of hydraulic fluid - although some just use motor oil. The radiator takes a 50/50 mix of antifreeze & water.
luck,
rScotty

 

[CoyPatton]

Hello all,
Quick question for you gurus. I have a 1300D, runs great but has a loud knock that is a little troubling. I have changed the oil and filter on the motor. Running 15-40 in the motor. I don't believe the knock is from the crank or rods. I believe it is coming from the hydraulic pump. the fluid in the rear diff/trans is white/aerated. At first I thought it might have been water but if you put some on your fingers it will clear out and is just oil. I have a 155d manual but it isn't clear. where is the screen / filter for the hydraulics? I am going to check the screen, clean it and change the fluid and see it it gets any better/quieter. Any other ideas would be welcome also.

You say it is not water in the fluid. Your reasoning is that with some fluid on your finger it clears out and is just oily.

I feel the need to remind you that unless agitated water and petroleum products will separate, both on your finger and in the transmission housing.
You should be able to determine this as you drain the fluid by watching closely as it drains. Mostly likely the water will drain first assuming the tractor has sat for a bit before draining.
And as rScotty said, you will drain the fluid (or at least most of it regardless) when you remove the screen. I much prefer the easier to control drain opening than the 2” or so opening from the screen housing. I also think your problem is most likely to be a water issue. One other way to check this before draining is to run the tractor long enough that friction (only real source to heat up hydraulic fluid) will heat up the fluid, if air pressure has build up in the housing, as you open up your dipstick fill port, you might hear a rush of air as the seal is broken. This is a maybe because you could have enough venting to allow air to escape. You could also insert a long clean dip stick to check for ‘milky’ slimy fluid.
Good luck

 

[careyo63]

It was the last of the fluid in my YM2000 that was milky as could be. Down right thick and nasty. It was in there for awhile that's for sure. Looking at the screen I wondered if it was ever changed. The screen showed to be what was allot of pressure damage. Pinched in half basically. I replaced it! Not the first problem since. Over 12 twelve yrs. And still going. Not that far from rolling the tac. I was under 100 when l bought it. 075 when l changed the fluid so it won't be long. Honestly l hardly use my Hyd. much if I have the rear scoop on is about it. So I believe your do for sev. and your be good. Take care of these tractors and they're pretty much trouble free. Esp the old basic Ym series.

 

[CoyPatton]

It was the last of the fluid in my YM2000 that was milky as could be. Down right thick and nasty. It was in there for awhile that's for sure. Looking at the screen I wondered if it was ever changed. The screen showed to be what was allot of pressure damage. Pinched in half basically. I replaced it! Not the first problem since. Over 12 twelve yrs. And still going. Not that far from rolling the tac. I was under 100 when l bought it. 075 when l changed the fluid so it won't be long. Honestly l hardly use my Hyd. much if I have the rear scoop on is about it. So I believe your do for sev. and your be good. Take care of these tractors and they're pretty much trouble free. Esp the old basic Ym series.

You don’t use your Hyd. much.
This is a common misconception that if you don’t use the 3ph or have a FEL or other such items you are not using the hydraulic fluid.
But you need to think what you are using every time your tractor moves! You have a common fluid for the transmission, PTO, 3 ph, loader...
you only have a few fluids on the entire machine (fuel, coolant, oil and hydraulic fluid). You use each every time you start the tractor! Your hydraulic pump runs off the engine do it is flowing

 

[careyo63]

My 3pt. Lift is the only thing my Hyd. Pump uses. I'm Gear driven. I may lift the FM. Every now and then. No loader. Used a 50hp. JD. wiih a Frontier Fel. and know it's capability all to well. Haven't, won't and don't even consider one for the little YM2000. Here's the JD. 5103 used it for about 10 yrs..

 

[CoyPatton]

My 3pt. Lift is the only thing my Hyd. Pump uses. I'm Gear driven. I may lift the FM. Every now and then. No loader. Used a 50hp. JD. wiih a Frontier Fel. and know it's capability all to well. Haven't, won't and don't even consider one for the little YM2000. Here's the JD. 5103 used it for about 10 yrs..

Your gear drive transmission is not a dry transmission else there would not be seals on the rear drive axle or PTO shaft. So while pressure may inly he required by lifting your 3ph, it is far from the only thing using that fluid. And the pump runs while the engine runs.
Please quit promoting false information to others who may not have knowledge to recognize misinformation. While the gears in your transmission may be more of splash bath, it still uses the fluid!
Otherwise why dies a differential or transfer case in a truck have fluid?

 

[California]

....The YM135 takes 2.5 quarts of hydraulic fluid - although some just use motor oil.

Quarts, or gallons? The slightly larger Yanmars take most of a five gallon pail.

 

[rScotty]

Quarts, or gallons? The slightly larger Yanmars take most of a five gallon pail.

Yikes! Good catch. That's wrong info. I should have said 2.5 gallons (10 quarts). Wonder how/if I can change or edit it??

The actual amount is more like ten quarts. See below.
Thanks,
rScotty

 

[careyo63]

Your gear drive transmission is not a dry transmission else there would not be seals on the rear drive axle or PTO shaft. So while pressure may inly he required by lifting your 3ph, it is far from the only thing using that fluid. And the pump runs while the engine runs.
Please quit promoting false information to others who may not have knowledge to recognize misinformation. While the gears in your transmission may be more of splash bath, it still uses the fluid!
Otherwise why dies a differential or transfer case in a truck have fluid?

Another Yikes!! only thing I was referring to was the Hyd. Pump. I didn't know I needed to wright a novel on every seal on the tractor Dang!!! or uses the fluid for that matter..........:confused2:

 

[CoyPatton]

Another Yikes!! only thing I was referring to was the Hyd. Pump. I didn't know I needed to wright a novel on every seal on the tractor Dang!!! or uses the fluid for that matter..........:confused2:

You are the one that said you only use your hyd for your dirt scoop. Realize that many new tractor users read these statements. And I have seen people that would assume such a statement to mean the did not need hydraulic fluid if they did not use the 3ph. That is bad thought process on 2 fronts. 1) what you put out and 2) them not learning there machine.

Oh a question, how do you not run your hyd pump when tractor is running but you are not using your 3ph?
My pumps any time the tractor engine is running regardless if I operate a hydraulic function. The pump still works!

 

[careyo63]

Again you Buttwipe. I'm not writing a novel exactly and what all my Hyd. Sys.works with and how. And your the first and only one to complain about what I wrote. I don't have to even have a pump operating to even use my tractor. My 3PT. lift just won't work!! So FO...........

 

[LouNY]

Seems someone got out the wrong side of the bed this morning!

 

[careyo63]

Sure did as a matter of fact. And having to start the day with his BS............ I'm upgrading him to a As_wipe............

 

[LouNY]

Well heck, lets stir the pot some more.
I read thru your posting and was a bit confused also,
you seem to feel that your hydraulic pump doesn't operate all the time.
Is this correct?

If so I will disagree I do not have a Yarmar but every tractor I have operated except for a few very old ones had a live hydraulic,
in that the pump was driven by the engine and ran constantly. Some were mounted on the engine, some are mounted in the transmission
case area but they run as long as and any time the engine does.

 

[careyo63]

It always flows just not under pressure. On my YM2000 it only operates the 3pt that's it period. Shear the pump key is a common problem. That doesn't mean you can't run or operate it. The Tractor that is for A/W. And on mine I actually checked and can't find the first thing the Pump operates or even oils besides the 3Pt. lift. On a YM 2000 or the 1300 for that matter like the Org. Poster. A 2002 with power shift has nothing to do with this thread as A-wipe is insinuating. And what ever is found it does Oil besides the 3Pt. that anyone can find it does I'm all for hearing about it but there isn't anything!! On a YM2000-1300 like the org. post!!!!!

 

[CoyPatton]

It always flows just not under pressure. On my YM2000 it only operates the 3pt that's it period. Shear the pump key is a common problem. That doesn't mean you can't run or operate it. The Tractor that is for A/W. And on mine I actually checked and can't find the first thing the Pump operates or even oils besides the 3Pt. lift. On a YM 2000 or the 1300 for that matter like the Org. Poster. A 2002 with power shift has nothing to do with this thread as A-wipe is insinuating. And what ever is found it does Oil besides the 3Pt. that anyone can find it does I'm all for hearing about it but there isn't anything!! On a YM2000-1300 like the org. post!!!!!

So sad you are such a poor human that you need to call people names. An just how does s pump that runs off of your running engine not have pressure until you push a lever. Does your 3 point hitch raise when you move the lever to raise it or do you have to wait for pressure to build up?
There are words for people like you, but I will allow the reader to decide what to name you!
I only ask that you stop with the misinformation. You apparently think that there is no pressure until you want it by opening a valve. That is far from how the system works.
You can believe whatever lies you wish but others that may not understand deserve to have accurate information from these forums!

 

[CoyPatton]

Well heck, lets stir the pot some more.
I read thru your posting and was a bit confused also,
you seem to feel that your hydraulic pump doesn't operate all the time.
Is this correct?

If so I will disagree I do not have a Yarmar but every tractor I have operated except for a few very old ones had a live hydraulic,
in that the pump was driven by the engine and ran constantly. Some were mounted on the engine, some are mounted in the transmission
case area but they run as long as and any time the engine does.

Thank you for your understanding of how any pumping system works. Also that it is under pressure when the pump is running. But as you can see by the followup comment from the self proclaimed most knowledge name caller we do not understand.
Well all I can say is he needs to stop using that and charge for people to come check out his most unique tractor.

I wonder what he thinks will happen if he gets a hole in either line going to his pump? By reading his comments nothing until he raises his 3 ph.
But as any of us who ever blown a pressure line knows we gave a mess and are done until repairs happen. Even a return and a suction line makes a mess! That is the real world!

 

[CoyPatton]

It always flows just not under pressure. On my YM2000 it only operates the 3pt that's it period. Shear the pump key is a common problem. That doesn't mean you can't run or operate it. The Tractor that is for A/W. And on mine I actually checked and can't find the first thing the Pump operates or even oils besides the 3Pt. lift. On a YM 2000 or the 1300 for that matter like the Org. Poster. A 2002 with power shift has nothing to do with this thread as A-wipe is insinuating. And what ever is found it does Oil besides the 3Pt. that anyone can find it does I'm all for hearing about it but there isn't anything!! On a YM2000-1300 like the org. post!!!!!

Learn your yanmars, I wish I had a power shift but no go. Go check it out!
Mine has 1 reverse and 3 forward in 4 ranges (C, 1, 2, 3) non-synchronized.
You prove by all your going on that you lack basic mechanical understanding of how a pump works. But worse is you provide information that could result in someone getting seriously hurt. Someone will thing by your information that they can open a hydraulic pressure line and since they have not called (in your example) raising the 3ph there is no pressure present.
I beg to correct this misinformation because if the pump is operating then it is producing pressure and flow. Note operating. That typically is happening when the engine is operating. If it is not you have problems. Same goes for the injection pump and the water pump (if present, as not all Yanmars have water pumps).
As for your name calling—go ahead you tell way more about yourself by that than you ever will about the person you call names.