Box Scraper 60" Box Blade Recommendation (Canada)

[Hysyde]

Hey all,

I know there's numerous threads, but I'm looking for Canadian specific recommendations to purchase a box blade.

It will be for my little SCUT Ford 1210 which doesn't havea whole lot of ponies and I'm fairly certain 60" is definitnely the biggest I want to go.

Doing some searching, I've heard of fellow Canucks ordering through everythingattatchmetns but most of the info looks dated? Still an option?

I'll be using for topsoil leveling, gravel driveway maintenance, and to level out fill on the areas in the bush I'm reclaiming and spreading fill around in to level low spots a build up the trails.

Thanks

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

Earlier this spring, when a Princes Auto flyer came out they had a 60" China made box blade listed.
Our local store is really bad about having at best 1 of the sale items when they do that kind of promotion. I busted tail and was at the door first thing in the morning, first day of the sale and got the one they had.

It is heavy, kind of crude, ugly as can be, but it does all you can ask of an implement like this.

Out the door price was cheaper than I could have bought the steel and hardware to do a home made.

>>>>>>>>>
The only modification I'm going to do to it is bolt some angle iron skid shoes to the outside of the wings to give the cutting blade a "0" bite. The blade bite is about 3/4 inch as it came. I'm thinking this will let it do double duty as a driveway plane/maintainer, land plane of sorts.

Good luck...

 

[Hysyde]

Earlier this spring, when a Princes Auto flyer came out they had a 60" China made box blade listed.
Our local store is really bad about having at best 1 of the sale items when they do that kind of promotion. I busted tail and was at the door first thing in the morning, first day of the sale and got the one they had.

It is heavy, kind of crude, ugly as can be, but it does all you can ask of an implement like this.

Out the door price was cheaper than I could have bought the steel and hardware to do a home made.

>>>>>>>>>
The only modification I'm going to do to it is bolt some angle iron skid shoes to the outside of the wings to give the cutting blade a "0" bite. The blade bite is about 3/4 inch as it came. I'm thinking this will let it do double duty as a driveway plane/maintainer, land plane of sorts.

Good luck...

Yeah, PA is always a consideration. Looks to be a decent sale on the box blade starting tomorrow ($529 for a 60"). Apparently they are Landpride brand?

3-Point Hitch 5 ft Box Scraper | Princess Auto

The reviews kinda scare me though. I'll be upgrading to a new or newer CUT in the next few years and I'm willing to spend a few extra dollars for a quality implement that will last for years to come. That being said, I'm willing to pinch pennies if something is good enough to get the job done....


There's a local guy selling Walco box blades for a little more money than the PA sale price ($645) but they look about the exact same.

Other options would include the various options at TSC (king Cutter, AgriEase) plus the local Farm-Fleet dealers carry Tuffline scrapers (triple the price of the PA one for the "standard" duty).

I think I will try my luck with PA tomorrow when the sale starts. Hard to beat that price.

 

[Jaylegger]

Hey all,

I know there's numerous threads, but I'm looking for Canadian specific recommendations to purchase a box blade.

It will be for my little SCUT Ford 1210 which doesn't havea whole lot of ponies and I'm fairly certain 60" is definitnely the biggest I want to go.

Doing some searching, I've heard of fellow Canucks ordering through everythingattatchmetns but most of the info looks dated? Still an option?

I'll be using for topsoil leveling, gravel driveway maintenance, and to level out fill on the areas in the bush I'm reclaiming and spreading fill around in to level low spots a build up the trails.

Thanks

Most Canadian Kubota dealers also carry Landpride.

Here's a few Walco's for sale near you. I had one of these and they were well built.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-farming-equipment/ottawa/3pth-box-blades/1448417930?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true#map

For a 5 foot box I trust your scut have 4 wheel drive

 

[Hysyde]

Most Canadian Kubota dealers also carry Landpride.

Here's a few Walco's for sale near you. I had one of these and they were well built.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-farming-equipment/ottawa/3pth-box-blades/1448417930?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true#map

For a 5 foot box I trust your scut have 4 wheel drive

Yeah, that's the local seller I was talking about. Now I'm tempted to go get one of his 4fters. I'm concerned 5ft might be a bit much for my 1210. It is 4WD drive, but light on hp (16hp diesel).

 

[Imold]

I just bought a Walco box blade and back blade with my tractor purchase they look well built. I bought a MF GC1705 and the box blade is a 48 inch and the back blade is a 60 inch.


Jim.

 

[docone]

IMO, the 48" would be more than enough for 16HP. I have 50 ponies, and pull an 84" Landpride. It's all the tractor will handle if it's filled with gravel or dirt. Hands down the best tool in my box for landscaping, alongside my 72" tiller. Only wish I had top n tilt.

 

[Jaylegger]

This stuff has been debated to death but with 16HP I think I'd opt for the 4 footer as well.

 

[Imold]

I wouldn’t go bigger then a 4ft box blade either.
When I started to get serious about buying a sub compact (scut) I read that the basic rule of thumb is that for every one foot of a attachment you should have at least 5hp of tractor, with new tractors that might not apply to all attachments that’s why I stayed with a 4ft bb and not a 5 footer, think it would become a anchor if I dug in to deep.

Jim.

 

[Hysyde]

I realize this is a common topic here, but I appreciate the advice. I'm going with a 4ft Walco.

 

[Imold]

I realize this is a common topic here, but I appreciate the advice. I'm going with a 4ft Walco.

I like that Walco only uses three scarifier teeth rather then four on the 4 foot box blade, I think it will put less stress on the 22.5 hp tractor where a 4 tooth might be a bit harder, hopefully my new 1705 will be ready this week so I can start using it with the box blade as I have a bunch of stuff I want to do with it and then go over it all with the new back blade.

 

[Imold]

One more thing and this only refers to doing driveways nothing else, as I see it when I do my driveway the middle tooth will rip right down the area that is compacted from the tires and with the 3 point adjusted right will leave a nice crown in the driveway where as a 4 tooth would rip on each side of the compacted tire track unless you were a bit to the left or right of the tire track and then you would need to work it a bit more on crowning the driveway.
The main use for the box blade will be for driveway upkeep being it is about 330 ft long. I still need to get pins for the teeth and adjust them, this is how it came.

 

[Imold]

Let us know how you like yours.


Jim.

 

[Jaylegger]

The less you disturb the substrate the better off you are. From many years of using scarifiers to grade roads the thing I learned is don't use scarifiers. They create loose areas that will just compact and create depressions for water to pool when things compact again. Pooling water is what causing pot holes. Better to skim off from the top surface the least amount required to fill in holes and re-contour the road for proper drainage. The concept of digging into and below pot holes is a myth, that typically makes things worse, just fill in the pot hole and grade the area properly to drain water away from wheel traffic. Pot holes are caused from driving over standing water, that spray of water from beneath the tire removes a little gravel with it as well and over a short time as the pot hole develops the the gravel dispelling energy/action becomes a square of the depth of hole.

 

[DMW]

The less you disturb the substrate the better off you are. From many years of using scarifiers to grade roads the thing I learned is don't use scarifiers. They create loose areas that will just compact and create depressions for water to pool when things compact again. Pooling water is what causing pot holes. Better to skim off from the top surface the least amount required to fill in holes and re-contour the road for proper drainage. The concept of digging into and below pot holes is a myth, that typically makes things worse, just fill in the pot hole and grade the area properly to drain water away from wheel traffic. Pot holes are caused from driving over standing water, that spray of water from beneath the tire removes a little gravel with it as well and over a short time as the pot hole develops the the gravel dispelling energy/action becomes a square of the depth of hole.

Theoretically it may be correct, but in practice for my driveway, a boxblade is the cat's pyjamas. 150+year old gravel driveway, packs like cement. A blade just skips along the top. Using scarifiers I don't need extra weight, just adjust the angle to give the blade a bit of downforce. I've had years where it''s not touched, others when it has to be dressed 3-4 times. All depends on the weather.

Another issue is an area ban on herbicides. The boxblade is also used to remove grass/weeds growing in the driveway. Scarifiers pull up roots and all, a blade alone just trims them.

 

[Jaylegger]

Theoretically it may be correct, but in practice for my driveway, a boxblade is the cat's pyjamas. 150+year old gravel driveway, packs like cement. A blade just skips along the top. Using scarifiers I don't need extra weight, just adjust the angle to give the blade a bit of downforce. I've had years where it''s not touched, others when it has to be dressed 3-4 times. All depends on the weather.

Another issue is an area ban on herbicides. The boxblade is also used to remove grass/weeds growing in the driveway. Scarifiers pull up roots and all, a blade alone just trims them.

Agree that a boxblade for "like cement" packed gravel is too light weight. Why after 5 or so years of grading about 2km of private roads 4-5 times a year switched to a land plane setup. Even with that I had to add 250 pounds of extra weight to ensure ease of removing a skim coat of gravel. Scarifiers are great digging up the gravel required to fill the box easily to fill in holes but after many years it became apparent that their use was a short term gain long term pain scenario.

 

[Imold]

I will be doing a driveway that has never had anything done to it since the previous owner built it with a bulldozer 20+ years ago, this is the only pic I have at the moment( it’s taken 3 years to get it to look like a yard, they stopped haying it over 10 years ago ) but the driveway gets worse as you go down it the middle gets real green with weeds which i will get rid of and then I am going to have some class five dumped and I will see if he will just chain his tailgate open a few inches and drive down the driveway as he dumps, hopefully he is a good enough driver to do it smooth and even, I can finish with the back blade.

 

[jenkinsph]

Imold. Single track driveways all look like that over time. If you don't like the look you can widen the drive so that you can drive all over it.

 

[Imold]

Imold. Single track driveways all look like that over time. If you don't like the look you can widen the drive so that you can drive all over it.

I like the clean look of a all gravel driveway plus it would be nicer to snow blow or run the bade up and down, the snow can pile up more on a single track driveway also. I will also mow the side of the ditches low in the fall so the grass doesn’t act like a snow fence, I have seen a clump of grass 5-7 inches tall on a driveway create a impassable driveway during a snowstorm or blizzard just like tall grass along side a highway can.

Jim.

 

[fried1765]

Imold. Single track driveways all look like that over time. If you don't like the look you can widen the drive so that you can drive all over it.

Glyphosate, twice each year.
No extra width necessary.