Troy Bilt Horse tiller

[Jkline]

I picked up this tiller last week and am having an issue with reverse. If it just sits-- with engine running-- it will go into reverse automatically. I adjusted the reverse nuts/bolts so that won't happen, but it takes a lot of force to get it into reverse now, so much I'm afraid I will bend the drive/neutral/reverse arm. The difference between being hard to get into reverse and going into reverse automatically is only 1/16 of a turn of the adjustment bolt.

The plunger and spring don't seem to serve any purpose-- when I remove the jam nut and retaining bolt, should the plunger come out? If I remove the retainer key that keeps the spring attached to the plunger, will it be easy to get the key back in place, or will the spring expand making it difficult to replace?

Thanks,

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

I don't own a horse, but I have owned my pony since I bought it new in 1984.
The pony model has a set of opposing springs to keep it in place.

Is it possible you are missing a spring?

 

[Jkline]

Thanks, but no. The horse has only one spring.

 

[Jstpssng]

Have you tried adjusting the block which locks the forward gear in place? Also, is the wheel which rides against the block worn? Are all of the applicable parts moving freely?

 

[CADplans]

Have you tried adjusting the block which locks the forward gear in place? Also, is the wheel which rides against the block worn? Are all of the applicable parts moving freely?

AND,, lubed,, the pins really need regular lube so the engine goes up and down properly,,

My Troy Bilt had many prototype features on it,, including stainless pins, and grease fittings for the pins.
I still put 90WT on the pins once in a while,,,

Yes, that is the factory paint,,,

 

[Molalla1]

Cuts it up pretty good . . . :thumbsup:

 

[stevewarner1957]

That was a special edition that came out after my 1992 8HP Horse. I think the roller block is out of adjustment. Look in the manual. Mine came with a rod that went through the hole in the block that allowed you to press down on the foreword/reverse lever to tension the block. The other end of that rod was a feeler gauge to check the distance from the roller to the block to verify it was correct

 

[Jkline]

Hi, everything is lubed and moving freely. Experimented with the block (raising/lowering), even added a new, second spring there for more tension on the wheel. I'm not sure where I am on belt tension-- I'll adjust that tomorrow. The previous owner made a depression on the block, attempting to lock the wheel into neutral. On ebay I see some of these blocks have a cutout for neutral and some do not.

The spring and plunger don't make much sense to me-- Could the spring be sprung?

The nylon wheel seems fine. If this one is worn, then a new one would be even worse.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[stevewarner1957]

They should not lock into reverse ever. You need to hold constant up pressure on the lever to make it reverse. Take a picture of that are. It appears to me something is backwards

 

[Jstpssng]

The belt has nothing to do with reverse, that's powered by a rubber wheel on the end of the crankshaft which engages when you raise the lever.

 

[Jkline]

Correct, the belt has nothing to do with reverse, but after moving the block so much, I need to check it for correct tension.

The machine does not lock into reverse: the engine lowers from weight and vibration, hitting the reverse wheel.

So I have two options right now with all the adjusting I experimented with: easy reverse when pushing up on the arm, but if left in neutral, it will go into reverse, or, extremely hard pushing the arm to get into into reverse-- so much I feel like I'm going to bend the arm.

This beast is frustrating.

 

[Jkline]

I've had an older troy bilt horse for 15 years-- never had a problem like this with it. Gave it to the old man as he wanted to start gardening again. Anyway, I'm not inexperienced with this machine.

@Jst-- I never even hinted that the belt has anything to do with reverse.

Has anyone removed the clip that holds the spring and plunger in place? In the manual, it says those will rotate when the retaining bolt is loose-- man is not.

Thanks again.

 

[sd455dan]

Since Troy built Horses are being discussed,

Any ideas on what the Horses are worth in working condition.

Inherited 1 that has been sitting for a few years, has the plow blade with it. Going to need carb and pull start work at a minimum

Still have a 3 point tiller for the tractor and doubt my back isn't up to running one of these. sure is built heavy

If I can get it running will see if anything stands out on the reverse vs. forward selection.

 

[Jstpssng]

Since Troy built Horses are being discussed,

Any ideas on what the Horses are worth in working condition.

Inherited 1 that has been sitting for a few years, has the plow blade with it. Going to need carb and pull start work at a minimum

Still have a 3 point tiller for the tractor and doubt my back isn't up to running one of these. sure is built heavy

If I can get it running will see if anything stands out on the reverse vs. forward selection.

Around here about $400 on up. You can go down to Harbor Freight and buy a new 6.5 HP Predator engine for $119 which beats messing around with the old one, expecially since it hasn't been run in years. That's what I've had on mine for the last few years and it works fine.
All that I use mine for now is the hiller, which is great for digging a trench for planting potatoes and seedlings.

 

[chevy]

The spring behind the engine pulley needs to be adjusted.
Here is a link to the manual. How to adjust the spring is on page 35.

Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller Operation Manual (Page 35 of 44)

 

[52wej]

I have had a Troy built horse since 1977. Still running today with its second engine. But I do need to do some serious seal replacement and replace the times again. It sounds as if your spring adjustment that holds the engine in neutral is not right. It should take deliberate effort to put the machine in reverse. W Jones

 

[Jkline]

If I had to guess, I think the spring doesn't spring anymore. My spring looks compressed, like there is no spring left in it. I would take out the retaining clip and check things out, but if it is under pressure, I don't know how I would get it compressed and then get the clip back on.

 

[Jkline]

@SD-- I picked this one up for $450. Sunbaked, but a newer Tecumseh 8HP on it.

 

[sd455dan]

@SD-- I picked this one up for $450. Sunbaked, but a newer Tecumseh 8HP on it.

Thanks, for the price info - Very helpful


Jstpssng

Will give fixing the Briggs a try first.

-if no Luck- the Predator is a great deal, knowing that there is another engine option available for a very reasonable price is good to know.

Thank you

 

[chevy]

If I had to guess, I think the spring doesn't spring anymore. My spring looks compressed, like there is no spring left in it. I would take out the retaining clip and check things out, but if it is under pressure, I don't know how I would get it compressed and then get the clip back on.

Maybe the spring plunger is stuck in the case or the plunger retaining bolt is tight against the spring plunger. The spring plunger is the bolt that runs through the spring. The spring plunger should move up and down freely. The plunger retaining bolt should only turn in far enough to keep the plunger from coming out of the case. The plunger retaining bolt is the bolt below the spring that has a lock nut on it. This is all covered in the manual that is linked above. Pages 35 to 37.