How Stupid Is This Idea? (Related to Pallet Forks)

[Diggin It]

A while back I asked about clamp on pallet forks: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/408400-question-pallet-forks.html

Discussion implied they were OK for limited use, but you put the load too far out front which reduced capacity and there was a risk of bending the bucket lip. Some said a Carry All was a better idea since you could back in and lift more load. So, I got one. I'm pretty sure that's how this happened: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rating/412555-how-avoid-bending-lift-arm.html Responders there said it could happen with compression. The more I thought about it, that's probably what did it, backing in and hanging up on the pallet slats. There was also discussion of needing to be able to tilt which I can't do since I don't have the extra hydraulics.

So, this morning I came up with this idea:

This puts the load a bit closer to the arms and also eliminates the weight on the lip that the clamp on forks would apply. For this test, it's held in place by ratchet straps hooked to the bucket attachment points. I'm planning on adding bucket hooks at some point and people say to align them with the arms. So, if they are about where the red marks are, that aligns them with the 3 point pins on the Carry All. I could use some larger U-Bolts or Muffler Type clamps from the bucket hooks to the pins and maybe even do something else higher up the Carry All frame to help alleviate the front loading even more.



Remember, I won't be lifting full pallets, only ones I've cut down. Pictures show the Carry All 'forks' all the way through the cut down pallets. I moved two today with this test/temporary setup and had no problems at all.

So, how stupid is this idea? What might I have missed? Be honest, you can't hurt my feeling since I don't have any.

(I certainly can't be the first one to have thought of this. I know others have, so don't be afraid to chime in and tell us if it worked or not.)

 

[RustyA]

Looks like you have skid steer type quick attach for loader, why not just buy quick attach adjustable forks for $500-600 new/used?

 

[Industrial Toys]

No, it's a 3ph mount.

Hey, if it works.

 

[Diggin It]

Looks like you have skid steer type quick attach for loader, why not just buy quick attach adjustable forks for $500-600 new/used?

If I do, I don't know it, but even so, why spend that kind of money when I can do what I want with what I have that cost me $150?

 

[jenkinsph]

Why not put braxkets on your carry all so you can pin it on instead of your bucket?

 

[RustyA]

Good thinking with the quick attach plate fastened to the 3 point fork setup. I have actual fork setup for loader quick attach that forks slide in and out and have even used it for round bale moving so I couldn't get past that thought. Adapting his setup so it fits directly on loader would be less expensive. I've used bucket forks and they stink, bucket blocks your field of vision and you can't see forks without a helper.

 

[Diggin It]

Why not put braxkets on your carry all so you can pin it on instead of your bucket?

A. I don't have the resources or abilities to do that kind of work myself.

B. That would mean taking the bucket off to put the fork on, then reverse when done. I might use this a few minutes a day, a few days a year to move a few pallets of firewood.

C. That might mean I couldn't use the CA on the rear 3PT for other things.


This way, I can slide it in the bucket, make two or three connections and be on my way. When done, unhook and go.

I'm looking for safety or functional reasons I might have over looked. For example, will this pose a risk to the loader arms?

 

[Xfaxman]

Looks like you have skid steer type quick attach for loader, why not just buy quick attach adjustable forks for $500-600 new/used?

Good thinking with the quick attach plate fastened to the 3 point fork setup. I have actual fork setup for loader quick attach that forks slide in and out and have even used it for round bale moving so I couldn't get past that thought. Adapting his setup so it fits directly on loader would be less expensive. I've used bucket forks and they stink, bucket blocks your field of vision and you can't see forks without a helper.

I don't understand what you are seeing. There is no quick attach plate in his pictures. The bucket is pinned on and the Carry All is a 3 point.

 

[Scook222]

It looks like it works good and I知 all for saving money. If the clamps don稚 hold, why not get a 2 sets of bolt on hooks to keep it from shifting side to side and chain the carry all to the bucket. You could also get the shackle mount bolt on where all you would need is 1 short chains and 2 Clevis hooks to secure it and it wouldn稚 take but a minute or two with a wrench to unscrew on side of the chain and slide it off and use it on the rear or to use the bucket. The bolt on hooks just need a drill and bit to install them. I think kennyd has the clevis mounts too and from what I have read on here, everyone loves the bolt on hooks.

 

[jjp8182]

While I can't see all the routing of the straps, what I can see there might be a possible problem if the bucket was dumped a bit too much - to the point it causes the bottom of the carryall slid out out the front of the bucket making the straps/pins becoming a point of rotation.

Though if there was a need to dump the bucket that far, I'd think running some straps to hold down the lower arms of the carryall should solve that issue.

Depending on the terrain it might also be worth considering/trying an approach where the straps are threaded over the carryall pins to the far/opposite side of bucket to help remove the potential for the carryall sliding across the bucket as well .... so I think the simplest solution to solve both possibilities (though it may lose an bit of usable length on the carryall arms) would be to run the straps from the right pin on the carryall to the left side of the left loader bracket (or through one of the brackets on the bucket) to the lower left arm of the carryall/ Then doing the exact opposite for the left pin on the carryall, so the carryall is strapped to the bucket at both the top and bottom of the bucket with the straps crossing sides (and not being able to slide). That should pretty much eliminate the potential for the carryall moving/sliding relative to the bucket.

However, going to that extreme may not be needed if you're doing this over fairly gentle terrain, and can keep the bucket relatively level or curled back so the bottom of the carryall is always being pushed into the back/bottom of the bucket (in addition to the top/back of the carryall).

 

[Thomas]

If it works for you than :thumbsup:

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Can you see the front tips of your carry all from the tractor's seat with the bucket flat on the ground? If not, it makes it hard to line up while picking up the pallets. One of the many reasons I don't care for the clamp on forks I have. It's almost impossible to see the fork tips when trying to line up "the shot".

 

[s219]

So, I got one. I'm pretty sure that's how this happened: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rating/412555-how-avoid-bending-lift-arm.html Responders there said it could happen with compression.

In that other thread, you showed damaged stabilizer links. That kind of damage happens because they weren't adjusted properly such that one side goes into tension and handles the load, preventing the other side from compressing and bending. That damage can happen going forward or backwards. The stabilizers see action when the lift arms move sideways and all they do is resist that.

The classic damage from backing up would be to the lift arms themselves (or their mounts). Run a box blade backwards and run into a stump, for example. That won't damage the stabilizers, at least not until after something else breaks (unless it's due to the improper adjustment alluded to above). If it caused damage to the stabilizers (aside from above), you would first have done major damage to the lift arms or their mounts.

So I'd say go back to the other thread and re-read the comments carefully. I'd have no reservations using the carry-all on the 3-point hitch at all -- it will be more capable than strapping it into the bucket I think. As with any implement, make sure the stabilizers are adjusted so that they do what they are supposed to do. They are adjusted right when one side goes into tension and takes the load while the other side goes slack (but not jammed or compressed).

 

[Diggin It]

While I can't see all the routing of the straps, what I can see there might be a possible problem if the bucket was dumped a bit too much - to the point it causes the bottom of the carryall slid out out the front of the bucket making the straps/pins becoming a point of rotation.

Though if there was a need to dump the bucket that far, I'd think running some straps to hold down the lower arms of the carryall should solve that issue.

However, going to that extreme may not be needed if you're doing this over fairly gentle terrain, and can keep the bucket relatively level or curled back so the bottom of the carryall is always being pushed into the back/bottom of the bucket (in addition to the top/back of the carryall).

I don't plan on using straps at all. That was just for this test. I plan on using some kind of hard link, whether it's chain or some kind of load binder type adjustable bolt. Other than sliding into or away from a pallet, I can't see that I would ever have the bucket and tips curled out/forward.

Can you see the front tips of your carry all from the tractor's seat with the bucket flat on the ground?

Yes I can. Clearly enough to line up on the pallets with no problem.

So I'd say go back to the other thread and re-read the comments carefully. I'd have no reservations using the carry-all on the 3-point hitch at all -- it will be more capable than strapping it into the bucket I think.

The key thing I got from that thread was the need for a hydraulic top link to be able to adjust tilt for lining up under the pallets. I have almost no level ground. Everything is on a slant of some kind. 'Forks' level to the tractor won't help much to align with loaded pallets sitting on sloped ground. Seems that hydraulic top links and the necessary connections are quite pricey. Moving it to the front like this solves that problems. I can curl and adjust as necessary to pick up a tilted pallet. And I don't have to look behind me to do it.

 

[Zebrafive]

If you look at Commercial Backhoe tractors, the loader buckets have large hooks on top of the bucket, to hook forks on the bucket. Your idea will work.

 

[aczlan]

The key thing I got from that thread was the need for a hydraulic top link to be able to adjust tilt for lining up under the pallets. I have almost no level ground. Everything is on a slant of some kind. 'Forks' level to the tractor won't help much to align with loaded pallets sitting on sloped ground. Seems that hydraulic top links and the necessary connections are quite pricey. Moving it to the front like this solves that problems. I can curl and adjust as necessary to pick up a tilted pallet. And I don't have to look behind me to do it.

You are correct on the need for a hydraulic toplink with forks.
If you have rear remotes, you might check with Brian with FitRite Hydraulics (I think his username is MtnViewRanch) on a cylinder, or Surplus Center has the cylinders for $100-150ish and you could probably piece together a setup with hoses from them for under $200: Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Aaron Z

 

[Captain Dirty]

If I do [have SSQA], I don't know it, but even so, why spend that kind of money when I can do what I want with what I have that cost me $150?

The amount of wood shown in your photos appears that it could easily be stacked in the bucket. By cantilevering logs along the bottom edge of the bucket like the teeth of a toothbar you might carry twice as much per bucket load without the securing strap. Presuming you handle each log once loading the pallet at origin and once again unloading the pallet at destination, net handling is a wash; you might have saved the $150. If you store the wood on the cut-down pallets and a strap is necessary to secure the wood for travel on your uneven ground, you would need a multitude of straps or spend more time lashing and unlashing the loads.

 

[Diggin It]

Presuming you handle each log once loading the pallet at origin and once again unloading the pallet at destination,

I don't. I cut, split and stack, then move for storage and drying. That way I don't have to handle each piece again and I can store it off the ground by a couple of inches to help avoid ground moisture and bugs.

If you store the wood on the cut-down pallets and a strap is necessary to secure the wood for travel on your uneven ground, you would need a multitude of straps or spend more time lashing and unlashing the loads.

I do. I get them for about $2.50 a piece or so if I watch the sales and coupons. I'm also trying a few pallets with rope and some with steel wire to see how each combination works over time. I think I have about 20-25 pallets stored now. All will remain strapped in one way or another until I move them to the house one or two at a time as needed next Fall.

But this thread is about whether or not I might be putting some harmful stresses on the loader bucket, arms or hydraulics that I might not have considered.

 

[Diggin It]

You are correct on the need for a hydraulic toplink with forks.
If you have rear remotes,

I don't. I only have one connection at the rear for the BH that some have told me is considered 'power beyond'.

 

[wassup8687]

Looks like a good idea and you'll save lots of money.

Nothing wrong with it if it works for you. It looks plenty safe too.