Boxman
Bronze Member
Less heat and a little slower at taking material off. Easier to control and avoid overheating the knives.
Aaron Z
Exactly!
Less heat and a little slower at taking material off. Easier to control and avoid overheating the knives.
Aaron Z
So lets get back to the way these things are adjusted to mow. I have the Caroni also so I have a hole or a slot to hook the top link to. I've tried both and not sure how much difference it makes.. AND apparently having the skids at the same height/level as the roller is not correct either and I have the grooves all over the place to prove it.
So how bout a tutorial/discussion on how AND why everyone adjusts and hooks up their flail..
thanks...
Nothing personal but I was thinking more of shame on California... again!
Mr leonz
I visited a Woodcraft store. I presented them with photos of flail mower knives. They said there was no way that a micromark utility sharpener would hold up to sharpening these knives. They indicated that these sharpeners were to be used on fine wood working tools such as a plane iron, knife edge, chisel, or lathe tools. Because the wheel turns so slow and is uses a fine grit, it would take for ever to sharpen any quantity of cutters. They said it would be a complete waist of money to purchase this if this is what I was going to use it on.
Why couldn't you use a side arm grinder with a flapper wheel like I uses on my lawn mower and bush hog?
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Thank you
Well the rain they were calling for did not develop so I got started late this afternoon on flipping the slicer pairs, seems they had been flipped before but many (not done yet) had significantly less wear on the trailing side. Also several were bent, so I used a rosebud to heat and straighten them out then retempered. I setup the belt sander next to the mower and started taking one set off at a time, sharpen the best side and put them back.
Looks like I need to invest in a new set of slicers but before doing that I want to see if the cut improves with the sharpened slicers at least a little. Also it does not appear there are vary many sources for them, at least not like the 917 models. And I did figure out the 918H 72" is a rebadged Maletti, model FM180.
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Hello and good morning John0829,
The cutting edges are pretty dull john, I would flip the side slicer pairs and see how
well they look. you may just luck out and have a good set of edges on the opposite side.
So I've been debating flipping mine.. how many bolts did you ruin doing this? I would think being so rusty and being dinged up from hitting stuff would take a toll on those bolts!
Below I describe my way to set the height of my Caroni flail mower. I do not pretend that is the only way or the right way, but it works for me:
Assuming the skids and the bottom of the roller of the mower are on the same plane.
Firstly, I ensure that the tractor and the flail mower are on a level and hard ground. After attaching the Flail mower to the tractor, I set the top link length so the pin will center into the slot of the mower hitch frame (so the mower can tilt back and forth slightly when going over bumps).
Then I raise the mower to top position and slowly lower it down with the control lever until the skids barely touch the ground. Next I move the stop against the control lever and tighten it.
This will be the lowest position the mower could go, and it will (most of the time) prevent the skids to dig their way in the ground and making grooves in soft terrain.
See attached picture of control lever and the stop.
So I've been debating flipping mine.. how many bolts did you ruin doing this? I would think being so rusty and being dinged up from hitting stuff would take a toll on those bolts![/QUOTE said:Have not lost a single bolt, but I still have about a 1/3 of them left to do and hope to finish today if there is no rain. There is really more dirt than rust on the bolts and nothing a quick swipe with a wire hand brush does not knock off. Having an air ratchet has been a saving grace as there is a LOT of turning to remove and install fine thread bolts. Break them loose and then hit em' with the air drive speeds things up somewhat but removing and installing 48 bolts plus the time to sharpen the slicers is to say the least time consuming.
====================================================================================================================Well the rain they were calling for did not develop so I got started late this afternoon on flipping the slicer pairs, seems they had been flipped before but many (not done yet) had significantly less wear on the trailing side. Also several were bent, so I used a rosebud to heat and straighten them out then retempered. I setup the belt sander next to the mower and started taking one set off at a time, sharpen the best side and put them back.
Looks like I need to invest in a new set of slicers but before doing that I want to see if the cut improves with the sharpened slicers at least a little. Also it does not appear there are vary many sources for them, at least not like the 917 models. And I did figure out the 918H 72" is a rebadged Maletti, model FM180.
So I've been debating flipping mine.. how many bolts did you ruin doing this? I would think being so rusty and being dinged up from hitting stuff would take a toll on those bolts!
My Mathews lawn genie uses a spring type knife hanger system that is does not require tools.
It does take a toll on the bolt heads and nuts depending on the type of mowing of course.
I always mention to the folks here that if they can, they should invest in fine thread allen head bolts, allen spring washers
and either 12 point box wrenches or a three eighths 12 point impact socket using a breaker bar to hold the nuts as you spin
the allen head bolt with a long handle allen wrench so they have a better time removing the hanger bolts and reduce filling
the swear jar.
you can use an O ring pick to clean out the allen head bolt before you push the wrench head in the hole and you know it will not slip out.