John0829
Veteran Member
A little more info, it is a 74" cut with 48 stations, 96 blades. Here are some pics I took of it right after I got it home. Any and all help is appreciated as I would really like to get this to leave a mostly smooth cut.
I worried about that on my old 917 when I was short some flails. I was surprised at how smooth it ran when I lost a couple knives due to some rocks. It wasnt that smooth, but it was suprising it didnt sound at all like it was trying to tear itself apart. I tend to think you'll be fine doing any reasonable job replacing knives as long as you stick with the same type. Interspersing them evenly would be the best option.Hello Leonz I'll probably remove all of the flails on the 200 that's 52 bolts! All in locations too tight for access with air tools so it's a hand wrench job. My son thought a dial indicator on the end of the shaft would work. Do you think I should intersperse the new flails along the whole rotor rather than at each end since they all have individual orbits,and use only 1 new flail with an older flail per shackle? I've always lightly touch sharpened each blade in the past, would that have changed the balance?
The skids are actually reasonably priced! But welding some flat stock on there would not be that expensive either, the only difficult part is bending it to match curve of the skids. Difficult for many home mechanics, not for a pro fabricator or an experienced amateur.
I'm also concerned about ASC's new California policy since ASC was the best place to get parts for my Kodiak rotary cutter. Apparently there's a Prop 65 commission who changed some rules recently to require Prop 65 statements to specifically mention at least one chemical that's carcinogenic rather than a blanket statement (which everyone ignores). I've found a few references to businesses who have temporarily stopped selling to CA until they can upgrade their systems to track the added information, and get it from their suppliers. But there are many that are smaller than ASC who are dealing with it. ASC's response could be political. I've seen some businesses who hate California (or the image they have of California which is often based on inaccurate media) so much that they won't sell to CA residents. But I wouldn't accuse ASC of that without knowing for sure. I can't find a statement about their California policy on their web site.
Here's a couple links about prop 65:
The Impact of California Prop 65 on Ecommerce | Practical Ecommerce
Online wine yes, coffee no: Scrambling to keep up with California's new Prop. 65 toxic warnings | CALmatters
A little more info, it is a 74" cut with 48 stations, 96 blades. Here are some pics I took of it right after I got it home. Any and all help is appreciated as I would really like to get this to leave a mostly smooth cut.
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The last time I checked micromark was selling their wet well grinders for $99.00 Plus tax and shipping and the folks at master craft were selling
their gauge setting tool for $25.00 plus tax and shipping and you will have a perfect edge every time as the wet well grinder spins at a very low
rpm and the temper on the steel will not be ruined.
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Shame on ASC!
I will try to adjust it as you suggested when I receive my new skids. As it is set now, when the mower is resting on flat ground the roller is 1/2 inch higher.
Now I am not sure what you mean by adjusting the height of the mower with the top link. My understanding of the top link function is for adjusting the longitudinal level of your implement, in this case the flail mower.
On my rig I adjusted the top link, so the pin is located in the center of the slot of the mower hitch frame, when the mower is resting on a flat ground (see picture).
The only way I know for adjusting ground clearance of an implement is with the hydraulic 3-point hitch. The position control lever lowest limit can be set with a lock bolt on the quadrant. I wish my tractor was equipped with a draft control, but it is not.
Lengthening the toplink forces the flail to rotate backwards which pushes the rear roller down and increases the cutting edge to ground distance.So lets get back to the way these things are adjusted to mow. I have the Caroni also so I have a hole or a slot to hook the top link to. I've tried both and not sure how much difference it makes.. AND apparently having the skids at the same height/level as the roller is not correct either and I have the grooves all over the place to prove it.
So how bout a tutorial/discussion on how AND why everyone adjusts and hooks up their flail..
thanks...
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Hello and good morning John0829,
The cutting edges are pretty dull john, I would flip the side slicer pairs and see how
well they look. you may just luck out and have a good set of edges on the opposite side.
..............The last time I checked micromark was selling their wet well grinders for $99.00 Plus tax and shipping and the folks at master craft were selling
their gauge setting tool for $25.00 plus tax and shipping and you will have a perfect edge every time as the wet well grinder spins at a very low
rpm and the temper on the steel will not be ruined......................