FEL Build Questions.
- Thread starter Mowens
- Start date
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jaxs
Elite Member
The pipe is more than up to the task on that small tractor or a much lighter weight one can be built with square tube. You are only limited by your ability to cut fish mouths and notches in round stock.
jaxs
Elite Member
Honestly,I'm not just trying to rain on your parade but here's food for thought. In case you never incounterd it,oil field pipe some times has a liner and often is magnetic. Fence builders deal with it because of the quanity required add's up when looking at profit. If your bargin source has unlimited quanity and isn't cutting price as a personal favor,consider this. Make a deal to sell pipe to a fence builder and use profit to buy the small quanity of new square tube to build the loader.
jaxs
Elite Member
:thumbsup: And save doubling hydraulics capacity to compensate for fel weight.
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2009
- Messages
- 15,763
even on a small tractor...one of the first considerations when designing a loader is the SUB FRAME...!
A decent fabricator should not have too much trouble adding angle plates to pipe where flat mounting points are required...
Good luck and be sure to take lots of pictures...
A decent fabricator should not have too much trouble adding angle plates to pipe where flat mounting points are required...
Good luck and be sure to take lots of pictures...
jaxs
Elite Member
Hydraulics are above my pay grade:jester: but I figure psi,gpm and temperature control are first considerations. If tractor pump has sufficient psi and gpm,I would think a supplemental cooler and filter is all that is required. I would'nt share oil stored in fel tubes with that in trans due to condensation from long term storage. Most hobby fels with dedicated pump store's oil in loader tube but pump and oil usually see's far less use than that in tractor. Plus if and when pump need's attention (A) tractor doesn't have to be out of use during repair (B) parts and labor are less than tractor system. Once again,this isn't in my wheelhouse by a long shot.
Subframe was and is my first concern. I'm modeling it after the factory fel. 2 long supports that go from front bumper over the front axle, mounts right at motor mounting, and then extends over the rear axle, and mounts on 2 ears at the back differential.
I will do my best to take progress photos. I'm confident I'll be back for advice as I engineer this.
And yes I plan a wood mock up just for good measure.
Thanks. I wouldn't have thought of filter or cooler. The factory one attached to an adapter plate on the side of the main transmission / 3 point case.
jaxs
Elite Member
Simply putting anything under pressure cause's it to release heat (principle on which conventional refrigeration is based). Heat destruct's oil and seals,not to mention havoc caused by metal expansion.
texasranger556
Platinum Member
I'm all for DIY, but have you looked for used loaders for sale in your area? Even with free pipe or box tube you'll still have to buy a lot of stuff like cylinders, pins, bolts, hoses, make or buy a bucket, etc which all add up but they do get spread over a longer period of time so it can seem cheaper.
As far as dynamic fluid requirements, if all 4 cylinders were 24" long with 1.25" rods, the volume difference between fully retracted and fully extended is only 0.16 gallons so your 3.5 gallon reservoir is plenty. If your tractor doesn't already have an oil cooler then it may be worthwhile to add oil capacity to compensate, but I'd want to monitor the temps first before spending the extra time and money.
As far as dynamic fluid requirements, if all 4 cylinders were 24" long with 1.25" rods, the volume difference between fully retracted and fully extended is only 0.16 gallons so your 3.5 gallon reservoir is plenty. If your tractor doesn't already have an oil cooler then it may be worthwhile to add oil capacity to compensate, but I'd want to monitor the temps first before spending the extra time and money.
I hunted for six months no luck, as soon as I start building I am confident they will come out the wood work.
Thanks about the volume information. I was looking into 18" cylinders at 1.5" rods so should be fine, I might bump to 24". My tractor doesn't have a cooler, I will do temp checks first and if its all good then leave it.
A side hydraulics question is that the Tractor calls for an adapter piece to be added to the pressure relief valve for power beyond usage. This valve as far as I can tell has the Pressure inlet and Return lines so basically it would go between it and the case. Adapater doesn't seem available. Would it be feasible to just add a T in the lines to feed the loader or no?
Thanks about the volume information. I was looking into 18" cylinders at 1.5" rods so should be fine, I might bump to 24". My tractor doesn't have a cooler, I will do temp checks first and if its all good then leave it.
A side hydraulics question is that the Tractor calls for an adapter piece to be added to the pressure relief valve for power beyond usage. This valve as far as I can tell has the Pressure inlet and Return lines so basically it would go between it and the case. Adapater doesn't seem available. Would it be feasible to just add a T in the lines to feed the loader or no?
Found more information on the adapter. So it is a pressured bypass. Pressure goes to loader and a pressured return comes back to the adapter. So my thoughts are T into the steel line and send it to loader. If I do that must I use a pressured return? Can I just dump it back into the tank and let the other leg of the T provide the 3 point? If I have to, I see a HA-38 adapter that bolts to the pump and gives you threaded fittings and then you use a second one to provide back to the original. Not sure which would be better.
I can fabricate the parts just not sure what exactly is needed. Hydraulics are out of my wheelhouse.
I can fabricate the parts just not sure what exactly is needed. Hydraulics are out of my wheelhouse.
texasranger556
Platinum Member
You shouldn't T an open center supply line, it will just dump through the path of least resistance.
It sounds like the adapter routes the oil from the pump to your new valve, then the power beyond port on the valve hooks to the other port on the adapter which feeds the 3 point. You would have to add a third low pressure line to return to tank.
If you can't find the adapter, you can cut the steel line and braise hose fittings on to the steel lines so you can extend with flex gose, just can't use a T on the high pressure side.
It sounds like the adapter routes the oil from the pump to your new valve, then the power beyond port on the valve hooks to the other port on the adapter which feeds the 3 point. You would have to add a third low pressure line to return to tank.
If you can't find the adapter, you can cut the steel line and braise hose fittings on to the steel lines so you can extend with flex gose, just can't use a T on the high pressure side.
So what your saying is split the steel line and put the valve in like add a loop? That only would require an open center valve correct? And since its a loop wouldn't require second return. Makes since.
I think i can use this and not cut anything?
HYDRAULIC ADAPTER - ADD A LOADER / LOG SPLITTER: Yanmar Tractor Parts
Thanks again to everyone.
Got steel today and started measuring and mock ups.
I think i can use this and not cut anything?
HYDRAULIC ADAPTER - ADD A LOADER / LOG SPLITTER: Yanmar Tractor Parts
Thanks again to everyone.
Got steel today and started measuring and mock ups.
PILOON
Super Star Member
I have a MT180D, same as yours, so I might supply a few hints, measurements etc.
PM me if U have specific questions.
PM me if U have specific questions.
Thanks! I will certainly send you questions. Appreciate the help.
