Mahindra 2545 on sand

[duffer]

Anyway, the other question I have is I need to figure out how I'm going to cut the yard. I just plotted it and I'm going to be mowing around 12 acres of land every time I mow "the yard". Anyway, what do I need to cut that much regularly? I was thinking a huge finishing mower but my dad is telling me that everyone he knows that buys a finishing mower ends up just buying a big zero turn in the end. But, when I'm done the land will be clear and perfectly flat which I'm thinking would be a prime candidate for a finishing mower pulled by a tractor. Thoughts?

FWIW...I have 10 acres of common bermuda grass on a sloping parcel. I mow it every 2-3 weeks depending on how much fertilizer I apply. If you want it to look like a "lawn" (3-4" high) then a finish mower will be great. If you had a ton of trees to navigate, the zero turn would be good. But it sounds like your grassy area will be relatively clear. My 10 acres probably avg's 4-5 trees per acre.

I have an 84" finish mower for my 2538 (35 hp @ PTO). The mower deck has 4 corner wheels and a center roller to prevent scalping. I love it. When I get done mowing the place looks more like an estate, rather than pasture. A bush hog won't give you near the finished look it sounds like you want.

My only regret is that I didn't get a 96" mower instead of the 84". You have more HP than I do, so a 96" should work fine. I looked into a bat-wing mower deck, but couldn't bring myself to dish out $16k for it. Most people buy implements that are "undersized" for their tractor, which is fine, but I want to come close to hp capacity. My dealer assured me the 84" was no big deal for my 2538.

Whatever you decide to buy, get an extra set of blades for it, so you can always have a set sharp and ready to go. The 1st 2 seasons of mowing, I hit several rocks that had floated to the top of soil, and screwed up one of my 3 blades. And of course, I tried to mow too close to the woods, and hit a large branches or small stumps...

 

[mike69440]

So I'm working on cleaning the corn stalks off the land that will be my future yard with a landscaping rake. I've got a pretty sweet drag I plan to use to get it the rest of the way level once I get all the organic matter up. Extremely time consuming as the rake gets full very quickly. On a first pass I can only "rake" maybe 5 to 10 yards before all the plant matter wants to ball up and be drug along, lifting the other rake tines off the ground. Maybe adding some cinder blocks to the rake would help? The 3pt being float I think is hurting more than helping with the rake.

Anyway, the other question I have is I need to figure out how I'm going to cut the yard. I just plotted it and I'm going to be mowing around 12 acres of land every time I mow "the yard". We are planting trees through a gov assistance program on the rest of the cleared land on the property, should come up to around 15 acres. The rest of the 45 acres are hardwoods that we wouldn't dare cut down. I'm a purist and like trees.

Anyway, what do I need to cut that much regularly? I was thinking a huge finishing mower but my dad is telling me that everyone he knows that buys a finishing mower ends up just buying a big zero turn in the end. But, when I'm done the land will be clear and perfectly flat which I'm thinking would be a prime candidate for a finishing mower pulled by a tractor. Thoughts?

You, unlike up here in the great white north have grass growing most all the year,
Get some cows. Like Beef? We have cows. I mow at most once a year.

 

[heavy hammer]

Try a finish mower, if that doesn't work you can always get a zero turn. I use a 72" finish mower for my place but I only have 2.5 acres. I didn't want a zero turn so it works for my situation.

 

[pripyat]

I was looking at the prices of good finishing mowers. No wonder people go to zero turns.. The price is close enough between the two that it surprisingly comparable.

I'll definitely buy used. I ordered bearings for the old Long bush hog. It is 6' and the heaviest built bush hog I've seen (granted i haven't seen many). There are some cracked welds, they make me feel like I need a larger welder than my 110v mig. I'll use it for any heavy stuff. I'll start looking for a finishing mower to play with soon. It would only make sense if it was.. huge. 84" sounds awesome but expensive..

 

[duffer]

Not sure how you define "expensive" but my 84" was about $2200 new. Certainly not cheap, but my neighbor bought a Deere zero turn and spent several thousand more than that.

I get good consistent cuts with mine. But to each his own...

 

[pripyat]

Probably not apples to apples comparison but an 84" on the high end (Woods) is a little over 3k, lower end is $1700.

dixie chopper zero turn is $3500, Husqvarna around $2500.

I know, I'm comparing 54" cut to 84".. A 74" zero turn is 9 grand.. lol. I get your point..

 

[SPYDERLK]

I was looking at the prices of good finishing mowers. No wonder people go to zero turns.. The price is close enough between the two that it surprisingly comparable.

I'll definitely buy used. I ordered bearings for the old Long bush hog. It is 6' and the heaviest built bush hog I've seen (granted i haven't seen many). There are some cracked welds, they make me feel like I need a larger welder than my 110v mig. I'll use it for any heavy stuff. I'll start looking for a finishing mower to play with soon. It would only make sense if it was.. huge. 84" sounds awesome but expensive..

A 200 Amp buzz box and 6011 rods will be your friend.

 

[pripyat]

Is there any reason this valve would not work to add grapple capability to the tractor?

1 Spool 2 GPM Prince RD-2575-T4-ESA1 DA OC Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

I don't want a diverter valve, I'd prefer to just mount another lever for the third function.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Is there any reason this valve would not work to add grapple capability to the tractor?

1 Spool 2 GPM Prince RD-2575-T4-ESA1 DA OC Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

I don't want a diverter valve, I'd prefer to just mount another lever for the third function.

It will work for sure, but it has a bunch more flow capacity than you have on the tractor. A lower capacity valve would be a little cheaper and still not restrict any high flow application you might have. - And for lower flow application you would have better throttling control.

 

[pripyat]

I just realized that the flow rates on the tractor spec sheet are in L/min while the valves are G/min. Thanks for the comment. That valve was 10x my flow.. lol

This one is closer to 4x and is marketed to be compact. Look better?
1 Spool 8 GPM Prince MB11B5C1 DA Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[SPYDERLK]

I think you have an 8.2 GPM pump. That would be at max rpm. No danger using an 8gpm valve. Probably perfect for loader work at around 20/2200rpm. A little more heat due to slight flow restriction when operating at 2600. Its a much closer match to your system than the 20GPM.

For comparison my 7520 loader valve is 14GPM operating in a 17GPM system. Its fine, but I would consider it objectionable if I were working for extended periods at full rpm.​

 

[pripyat]

Can I follow this write up exactly?
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/198367-photos-third-function-valve-project.html

Someone made a comment that since their system was open Center they would require less hydraulic hoses. I don't quite understand why though.

 

[pripyat]

So I ordered the valve and some fittings. I don't even have anything to hook up to it so i'm not in any hurry. I think mounting the valve will be the hardest part. Hopefully I don't find an outrageous deal on a grapple so I can take my time with the install..

 

[SPYDERLK]

Can I follow this write up exactly?
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/198367-photos-third-function-valve-project.html

Someone made a comment that since their system was open Center they would require less hydraulic hoses. I don't quite understand why though.

Yes, Gordons write up presents the system mod very well.

I have never had occasion to deal with a closed center system so I cant answer the comparative hosing question. You could PM the person who made the statement. :confused3:

I think youll like that valve. Having it in advance will let you mock up some options for the eventual arrangement.

 

[pripyat]

I knew the tractor was going to open up a can of financial worms but this is a little ridiculous.

The 50 hour service is quite expensive. It wouldn't hurt so bad but the fuel filter is outrageous. I can get a great marine grade fuel separator for a quarter of the cost of the mahindra fuel filter. I digress. I want to take the best care of my equipment, I've been greasing the fittings every other time I use the tractor just to get in the habit - I know it is overkill, just let me do my thing.

I'm tempted to put synthetic 80W-90 in the transmission and axle. Any thoughts? I was thinking that if it made the hydraulic pump last 50% longer it would be well worth the investment up front. I can get very good synthetic oil for about twice what the regular Valvoline costs. I use full synthetic oil in everything I own, I'm not convinced the tractor should be any different.

Anyway, I'm looking at a hundred dollars in misc items for the tractor (tool box, pins, corrosion preventative oil, grease, tool box, etc), a hundred dollars in parts for the brush hog, around two hundred for parts for the third function.

The want list for implements - Grapple, finish mower, stump bucket. That is easily $1200, $1500, $500.

Not complaining, just making a general statement that purchasing the tractor is just the beginning of dumping wads of cash..

 

[duffer]

No doubt its more expensive than many of us thought it would be, but I have a neighbor who owns horses, and believe me, the tractor is FAR less expensive to maintain than horses, especially show horses.

I've often thought about buying an additional ATV, or riding mower for smaller areas, etc etc. But I've found ways to make the tractor fill those tasks. Not as easy in some cases. But better than doling out another $5-$10k for a another "convenience". I guess it's a matter of priorities.

I'd sure like a backhoe, but honestly, I would only use it 2-3 times a year..maybe. So I rent one for $250 when I need it. Not as bad as shelling out $6k+ additional hydraulics to own it myself, plus the added maintenance.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Is your front axle pivot taking grease yet?

 

[pripyat]

Yes, when I greased yesterday I saw it oozing out the bottom.

Right now the tractor is exposed to the elements. I have a tarp that needs to be larger, I wont have a true home for it until another year or so when we get the shop built.

For now I'm spraying everything that could rust with oil, i'd rather the tractor be oily than rusty. I used a whole can of fogging oil the other day, i'm guessing in a couple months i'll either do the fogging oil again or go with fluid film. I like how fogging oil penetrates.

 

[pripyat]

Valve and fittings come in today, I've been thinking about ways to fund a grapple purchase since I literally don't have a reason to buy one other than to clean up a bunch of dead trees at my mom's property. Come to find out, she was just quoted $5500 dollars to clear 15 dead trees, not including stump grinding. My buddy offered to spend a weekend helping me out and it looks like she is going to reimburse me the cost of the grapple if I get rid of the 15 trees for her. In this case I would actually get a good grapple (some of the trees are rather large).

I went ahead and told her it would be between $1500 and $2500 for a grapple after referencing everythingattachments. Anyone have any input on which grapple would be best for the 2545? It comes with a 66" bucket, I'm not sure if it makes sense to match the OEM bucket width or go more narrow. Also, I'm not sure if it would make more sense to get the wicked root grapple V2.0 or the wicked root rake.

Anyway, I did some FEL work yesterday, we got our driveway installed by the state. I'm filling in the incline with dirt from an area near the drainage ditch (I'll fill the hole back in with the junk I dig out the ditch). Pics attached.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Valve and fittings come in today, I've been thinking about ways to fund a grapple purchase since I literally don't have a reason to buy one other than to clean up a bunch of dead trees at my mom's property. Come to find out, she was just quoted $5500 dollars to clear 15 dead trees, not including stump grinding. My buddy offered to spend a weekend helping me out and it looks like she is going to reimburse me the cost of the grapple if I get rid of the 15 trees for her. In this case I would actually get a good grapple (some of the trees are rather large).

I went ahead and told her it would be between $1500 and $2500 for a grapple after referencing everythingattachments. Anyone have any input on which grapple would be best for the 2545? It comes with a 66" bucket, I'm not sure if it makes sense to match the OEM bucket width or go more narrow. Also, I'm not sure if it would make more sense to get the wicked root grapple V2.0 or the wicked root rake.

Anyway, I did some FEL work yesterday, we got our driveway installed by the state. I'm filling in the incline with dirt from an area near the drainage ditch (I'll fill the hole back in with the junk I dig out the ditch). Pics attached.

View attachment 594929

View attachment 594930

Ah-h! I see you were smart and bought yours equipped with the SSQA carrier. I didnt see that you ever mentioned it . . . But essentially youre home free now. :thumbsup:

I think you will be near universally thankful in the future if you get a narrow strong grapple with one/center claw.
. . . Same capability and enhanced maneuverability over a wider one.​

Ive got a 60" bucket conversion for the 7520. That and the Tilt Tatch makes it surprisingly non cumbersome when obstacles are present.