Mahindra 2545 on sand

[SPYDERLK]

I've got 20hrs on the tractor, i'll be at 50 in a couple weeks. I can get valvoline 80W-90 easily. Any issues using valvoline gear oil and rotella T6 for engine oil?

Also, i'd like to add a third function before I do the service. I dont want an electronic valve, i'd rather add a separate single spool. Any thoughts on what I need to be looking for in the valve?

T6 is great - quality/price considered. I use 80W 90 in the front differential and it is one of the hyd system options, but the 80W scares me off. I use Kubotas SUDT - probably any UDT would be fine tho.

... For the hydraulics you might consider a valve with a float position.

 

[pripyat]

What is the significance of having a float position on the third function?

 

[SPYDERLK]

It would depend on what you use it for and what you might use it for. It gives an inexpensive extra capability, there when you need it.

In my case for instance, my Tilt Tatch can allow the bucket to tip left/right to follow the ground in float, but can be set and locked in a particular left right position by the conventional valve action.​

 

[heavy hammer]

Nice machine what brand grapple are you looking at?

 

[pripyat]

I will pick up a grapple used most likely. Whatever I can find cheap 66" wide to match the bucket width I'm used to. Up to 26 hours on the meter. Got my tooth bar installed. It's sweet on small trees, rips the larger ones right out the ground. I love it.

 

[mike69440]

I will pick up a grapple used most likely. Whatever I can find cheap 66" wide to match the bucket width I'm used to. Up to 26 hours on the meter. Got my tooth bar installed. It's sweet on small trees, rips the larger ones right out the ground. I love it.

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Weight and toothbar are your friends for moving dirt. Helps to have a decent loader.
My L39 is about at its max weight for is power. I wish it were around 50 HP.

 

[pripyat]

So I'm working on cleaning the corn stalks off the land that will be my future yard with a landscaping rake. I've got a pretty sweet drag I plan to use to get it the rest of the way level once I get all the organic matter up. Extremely time consuming as the rake gets full very quickly. On a first pass I can only "rake" maybe 5 to 10 yards before all the plant matter wants to ball up and be drug along, lifting the other rake tines off the ground. Maybe adding some cinder blocks to the rake would help? The 3pt being float I think is hurting more than helping with the rake.

Anyway, the other question I have is I need to figure out how I'm going to cut the yard. I just plotted it and I'm going to be mowing around 12 acres of land every time I mow "the yard". We are planting trees through a gov assistance program on the rest of the cleared land on the property, should come up to around 15 acres. The rest of the 45 acres are hardwoods that we wouldn't dare cut down. I'm a purist and like trees.

Anyway, what do I need to cut that much regularly? I was thinking a huge finishing mower but my dad is telling me that everyone he knows that buys a finishing mower ends up just buying a big zero turn in the end. But, when I'm done the land will be clear and perfectly flat which I'm thinking would be a prime candidate for a finishing mower pulled by a tractor. Thoughts?

 

[SPYDERLK]

I think in a case without obstacles a finishing mower will be the way to go. - - In getting to that point, and for more general maintenance a 5' bushog would be valuable.

For instance, a bushog run at scalp level would mulch those corn leavings a bit and make them more manageable, perhaps even valuable as a decomposing thatch that protects and fertilizes new seeding.​

 

[zilla24]

You will want to think long and hard about mowing 12 acres of grass on a semi-regular basis. Without physically seeing the property is it possible to mow only around the house and plant some natural grasses in the meadow and let it grow? You could maybe brush hog it once or twice a year. How flat is the "yard" going to be? If its rough you will not be able to use a zero turn up to its full potential, they are built for smooth areas where speed can be utilized. In the right setting ZTs are hard to beat, they are a purpose built machine and excel at cutting grass fast, but the ground needs to be smooth to utilize them correctly. I can share from experience I cut 6 acres/week, its a mix of meadow with some trees around the houses. Unfortunately in my case the property would not work letting the meadow area grow up and cutting once or twice a year. Using a 38hp compact tractor with a 72" finish mower I was right at 6 hours since I would need to use a lawn tractor around the houses/trees. Bought a 72" Deere 997 this past summer, I'm down to 1.75hrs...

 

[thekkfan]

Got my tooth bar installed. It's sweet on small trees, rips the larger ones right out the ground. I love it.

I thought you would. I love mine too!