Rounded off drain plug
- Thread starter Kando
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DieselBound
Elite Member
Holy dung! I gave up around page 30 and decided to skip to the "last chapter" only to find that this thing is still dragging on!
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but, ALWAYS LOOSEN up the FILL PLUG FIRST. (if applicable) If you've drained a pan/case and then find that the fill plug self-destructs then you're stuck with a drained chunk of metal.
Penetrating fluid (PB Blaster, or kerosene and ATF) go a LONG way to help. Doing this over the course of several days. Impact force (if possible). Movement to TIGHTEN, but only enough to get a sense that it's transferring good torque. THEN reef it in the unwind direction: I'm not understanding how bolt extractors cannot be used here: there's almost always some way to get an angle to beat something (have to be creative). Perhaps getting operating the tractor such that it's good and warm will help: I know that removal of glow plugs and injectors are much easier with the engine having been warmed up; and, perhaps do this in conjunction with penetrating fluid (do it several days in a row before one then makes the big "final" push at extracting that plug).
It's quite possible that the plug is stripped. Need to have a plan in place just in case. As someone noted, I'd be looking to get better access.
As has been suggested, pumping the case might be the only real "solution." Unlikely it's something that has to be done very often: already spent more time on this than would have been expended by several such operations. I use an oil extractor for oil changes on several pieces of equipment: my cars, VW TDIs, are great candidates; also use it on my Polaris (diesel).
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but, ALWAYS LOOSEN up the FILL PLUG FIRST. (if applicable) If you've drained a pan/case and then find that the fill plug self-destructs then you're stuck with a drained chunk of metal.
Penetrating fluid (PB Blaster, or kerosene and ATF) go a LONG way to help. Doing this over the course of several days. Impact force (if possible). Movement to TIGHTEN, but only enough to get a sense that it's transferring good torque. THEN reef it in the unwind direction: I'm not understanding how bolt extractors cannot be used here: there's almost always some way to get an angle to beat something (have to be creative). Perhaps getting operating the tractor such that it's good and warm will help: I know that removal of glow plugs and injectors are much easier with the engine having been warmed up; and, perhaps do this in conjunction with penetrating fluid (do it several days in a row before one then makes the big "final" push at extracting that plug).
It's quite possible that the plug is stripped. Need to have a plan in place just in case. As someone noted, I'd be looking to get better access.
As has been suggested, pumping the case might be the only real "solution." Unlikely it's something that has to be done very often: already spent more time on this than would have been expended by several such operations. I use an oil extractor for oil changes on several pieces of equipment: my cars, VW TDIs, are great candidates; also use it on my Polaris (diesel).
Wow, 900! As we approach the 1000 post threshold, Kando needs to get that sucker removed. Once he gets it out we can focus our efforts on replacing the plug. Should he use Teflon tape? Old school pipe dope? New tech thread sealer? Go commando and gamble on the metal sealing things? Speaking of metal, should he use a brass or steel plug? Once that's decided, should it be a standard pipe plug like he's removing, or go with a concave plug? Square, hex, or other drive? We have so much advice to offer once he gets that plug out. Thank God this is a transmission drain so we won't get into much of a debate about oil.
DieselBound
Elite Member
It's penetrating "fluid." Different than "oil." Thinner and more able to penetrate where regular oil cannot. So, yes, penetrating fluid CAN make a difference.
The "sticking" isn't likely so much "rust" as it is from metal galling. No matter, there will be microscopic spaces, and very thin fluids work very well in being able to get in such spaces. Applying heat and then the fluid will help facilitate the drawing in of the fluid.
The "sticking" isn't likely so much "rust" as it is from metal galling. No matter, there will be microscopic spaces, and very thin fluids work very well in being able to get in such spaces. Applying heat and then the fluid will help facilitate the drawing in of the fluid.
jaxs
Elite Member
Speak for yourself. :stirthepot:
DieselBound
Elite Member
I kind of started a debate about oil vs fluid, does that count? :laughing:
LD1
Epic Contributor
Penetrating oil doesn't work well on pipe threads.
Pipe threads seal air, and solvents such as acetone., And gases such as helium and hydrogen. On a molecular level it don't get much smaller. Penetrating oil isn't magic.
Best things to do for pipe, is heat the PLUG, and apply was and watch it wick in.
But as said....stuck really isn't the problem. Its probably just torqued to a nominal level. Gripping the plug to apply that torque is the issue, and penetrating oil is not the answer
Pipe threads seal air, and solvents such as acetone., And gases such as helium and hydrogen. On a molecular level it don't get much smaller. Penetrating oil isn't magic.
Best things to do for pipe, is heat the PLUG, and apply was and watch it wick in.
But as said....stuck really isn't the problem. Its probably just torqued to a nominal level. Gripping the plug to apply that torque is the issue, and penetrating oil is not the answer
hawkeye08
Elite Member
Pa always told me growing up on farm to figure things out, otherwise take it to town and pay someone to fix it for me...
