B2920 won’t start

[mhart]

Did you cycle PTO lever? Transmission pedal position? Seat switch? Brake pedal if interlocked. Sounds elementary but at least is should jump even if battery is dead. It’s a switch or a lever.

Yes tried all of those things. Very frustrating! Thanks for the reply.

 

[mhart]

Re: B2920 won稚 start

wow. and I just finished my thread on checking the ignition switch after a lot of digging into my 90 L2550 Kubota and what takes place to start one of these.
OK, you tried to jump it. Some thoughts from this really recent issue of mine (fixed today)
.
When jumping it, Did it turn over or just seem to go click click? Did you use batt ground, or frame as ground.

When you turn the key to RUN.. do you get any lights on the dash. My L seems to put up all lit as a test. then I start.
This means that your RUN ignition is correctly passing 12V and is a quick test of that at least.

There are several fuse points. An inline starter fuse down on the starter of mine. your Manuals wiring diagram will show if your B has one.
download online from Kb or some of the sites what offer free manuals.

My L has a fusebox w/ 4 or 5 fuses as well. there is a 15A for the starting interlocks if I recall. Chech for a fuse box.

If you have a meter, you can connect up your Meter to your starter and see if the starter Solenoid is being told to engage when you turn key to start. Even a HF $5 meter will be fine.

...and there are several interlocks on my system to prevent starting if:
Oil indicator NO oil ,or faulty sensor.. no start.
A clutch down safety switch also in series. No clutch down, no start / no turn over.
and.. the print even shows an air sensor on it. also in the mix to prevent starting. never did trace that down... but maybe yours has something?

...and then, just buying $9 dollar Denso solenoid kit, (which did not repair it), I ended up going back up to checking the ignition switch... that ended up being the problem and I just repaired it today. I doubt this is your issue.. that would be Halloween spooky!! (yeah, it's Halloween today). The ignition switch on my L requires 3 closed contacts from the ignition switch to all pass 12V to start her. Mine went kaput.
I see from the post that the lights come on. Did that mean when you turned the key to run?

Keep us posted and good luck.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will start to go through these. When jumping it I used battery as ground and this has worked in past. But did not try to turn over at all.

I will look for for the fuses.

When I turn the key to on. Two lights appear. The heating coil light, and the quick check light. Could this mean a bad oil sensor?

 

[gimmodog]

Re: B2920 won稚 start

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will start to go through these. When jumping it I used battery as ground and this has worked in past. But did not try to turn over at all.

I will look for for the fuses.

When I turn the key to on. Two lights appear. The heating coil light, and the quick check light. Could this mean a bad oil sensor?

if the ground wire is not making good contact where it connects to the engine/frame then connecting the ground jumper wire to the battery does nothing. connect the ground wire of the jumper cables to the frame or engine. If it starts then that would tell me that it has a bad connection of the battery ground wire at the engine/frame.

 

[mhart]

Gotcha. I will try that tomorrow. Thanks so much for replying.

 

[gimmodog]

it is common for the engine/frame ground connections to rust and cause problems, need to clean occasionally and coat with dielectric grease.

 

[mhart]

Well, checked all fuses, removed and cleaned all battery connections including frame connection. Still nothing.

The only two lights that come on when key is on are the glow plug indicator and the easy checker indicator. Could this indicate an issue with oil pressure?

 

[countryguy1225]

Would not be the first things on my list, but it's time to start digging in I guess. Do you have the Ops manual or Service manual with a wiring diagram (schematic more or less) for this unit? I'm guessing a bit to common elements as it's a B and my issue was an L that may have different technology. Take look on the site below and see if any of the Ops guides have a equiv. wiring diagram possibly? By that I mean maybe the B2900 ops or SM has one? I did not see it in the B2920 manual. So they'll expect you to buy the WSM....

If you can get into a diagram for her and post back, I'll check out what's involved. Do you think the solinoid could be bad? To check and even take apart to clean you can find the stater type. Mine was a DENZO. then do you search like" denso starter solenoid replacement" which is how I learned to swap mine out. Bunches of them: e.g. Denso Starter Repair (Honda, Toyota, Chrysler etc.) - YouTube

I did check a key start matrix on a diagram for a guy blowing fuses here.. .and it is the same 3 key contact shorts required to start. So I expect yours will also be the same. If we get to that point, my post explains it all in detail but I really don't see that being needed yet. on the plus side, it's 30-40mins of work and pretty easy on an L. to do the test.

For now, I do not know your Dash layout and indicators. in the past, did you get 'all lights' or when you say the two lights that do show, is that the normal condition when the key is turned to run? If you are missing some, then we'll need to see where those derive their power source from to 'indicate' that it's ready to start.

What's that phrase... Ocums razor.. Most obvious is usally the right answer... something like that. I think that we just need to get that starter tested out IMO (in my opinion....Thoughts gang?) How many of those I've done since HighSchool -vs- some crazy ignition switch crap I went thru for 4 days


On the manual, the post on the B is nearly the same unit! It's a B2910... see is this manual look appropriate. Heck, a free WSM manual w/ all the fixing if this works out for ya.
..
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...df&AutoIndex=0fbd4a3166f7a95e1f0c2e08e4836435

 

[countryguy1225]

OK.. from the "blowing fuses" post I nabbed a screen shot for ya of the interlocks that are required before she'll start. I just went through this. There are a lot of safety devices in the series loop that must ALL BE WORKING to start the unit. The effort here IMO is to start w/ the most common items and progress thru the manual and pics and see what you can test or cannot test. from your notes, I am thinking Starter inline Fuse, Solenoid, starter itself, Clutch Safety, other interlocks noted as PTO shift lever, HSt Pedal, then ignitions swith in that order. Thats how I progressed on mine recently. And these are typically easy to test if you find them... 0 ohms or open on a switch. and you can see form the print they show you the wire color and that it's on a plug/connector (or not).

Good luck.

 

[mhart]

Thanks so much for all of this!!

 

[D2Cat]

You say you have cleaned the battery wiring at both ends. There could be corrosion in the wiring you can not see.

Might take a volt meter and put one lead on the + battery post, and the other lead on the clamp on the - post. Then switch. One lead on the + clamp, other on the - post. It will show you real quick if you have a connection that needs attention. Next pull the battery and have it tested.

All this is under the premise you have checked all safety switches.