Three point valve broken!!!

[winston1]

I thought you had stated someplace that it would stay up overnight if the stop valve was closed. "If" that is the case then the piston seal cannot be at fault.

 

[Indirocz28]

I thought you had stated someplace that it would stay up overnight if the stop valve was closed. "If" that is the case then the piston seal cannot be at fault.

Correct that it will stay up with the lock out valve closed and the box blade attached.

Okay, well if that rules out the piston 100% then I’ve got no other ideas.
Also I’ve had to put my original three point valve back on a bit earlier because I noticed while using my tractor (three point empty and in downward position), using the loader to move some dirt and an old burn pile around, the new 3 point valve is leaking out quite a bit of hydraulic fluid from the seal around the “spool pin”. My original one did not/does not do this.

 

[clemsonfor]

According to its operation, after looking at the manual Winston posted, and how it won’t stay up on its own, and the fact that there is a new 3pt valve on the top, I can only assume that the internal piston seals are bad and that is why it will. It support any weight while it is running unless I hold the handle backwards causing fluid to always flow into the cylinder and hitting the pressure relief.

But if you close the stop service valve, and it stayed up the internal O ring should be good, the only place for fluid tO leave the internal cylinder would be past the oring at that point.

 

[clemsonfor]

But if you close the stop service valve, and it stayed up the internal O ring should be good, the only place for fluid tO leave the internal cylinder would be past the oring at that point.

Ok put the replacement valve on my tractor from Hoye. This one the bolt holes are perfect. Valve is stronger than the original yanmar valve I believe in the weight that it lifts. But for those of you hoping to get your implement to stay up when the tractor is off like some do mine still slowly falls to the ground when tractor is cut off. I have no idea why some hold up and some dont, this valve has to be better than my original and pretty darn close to yanmar factory specs and it won't stay up any better than my original valve, but it does seem to have better lifting power, making me assume that the older valve was worn or had bad places in it letting fluid bypass???

I am happy, my tractor is back running, your only other option is to hope to find a parts tractor and either get the whole thing at a deal and get the valve and then part the rest or sell as is to recoup your cost or find someone willing to sell just tell valve.

 

[Indirocz28]

But if you close the stop service valve, and it stayed up the internal O ring should be good, the only place for fluid tO leave the internal cylinder would be past the oring at that point.

Right, so now it’s either a pump problem, which I kinda doubt because the loader works pretty good, and strong.
A 3 point control valve problem, which all I know is it acts the same with either the stock valve or the Hoye valve, except the Hoye valve started leaking fluid out of it this morning while using the tractor.

Or linkage adjustment issues which is also a very likely possibility.

 

[clemsonfor]

Correct that it will stay up with the lock out valve closed and the box blade attached.

Okay, well if that rules out the piston 100% then I’ve got no other ideas.
Also I’ve had to put my original three point valve back on a bit earlier because I noticed while using my tractor (three point empty and in downward position), using the loader to move some dirt and an old burn pile around, the new 3 point valve is leaking out quite a bit of hydraulic fluid from the seal around the “spool pin”. My original one did not/does not do this.

Aaron said he had one other that did that he had to replace. That leaker and mine were the only problems he had he said...up to now, sounds like yours is the second leaker. I quess cheap China seals on it must be leaking, there is a small seal in there that that pin goes through.

 

[kenmac]

If it leaks, I'm sure he'll make it good.

How is the loaded valve plumbed ? Is the hp line just cut, then goes into the loader valve then out of the loader valve into the 3 point like most are plumbed ?

Wonder if it's possible to leak back through that loaded valve, and back to the sump.

It may be worth a try to test it. Disconnect the loader valve .You have tried other things. this wouldn't cost anything to try. Maybe a couple of plugs, or connectors

 

[clemsonfor]

If it leaks, I'm sure he'll make it good.

How is the loaded valve plumbed ? Is the hp line just cut, then goes into the loader valve then out of the loader valve into the 3 point like most are plumbed ?

Wonder if it's possible to leak back through that loaded valve, and back to the sump.

It may be worth a try to test it. Disconnect the loader valve .You have tried other things. this wouldn't cost anything to try. Maybe a couple of plugs, or connectors

Good thinking, but he was the one that put the loader on it, and it acted this way prior to loader install I thought?

Yea i was thinking the leaky valve may be a good thing since he has to swap it anyway he may refund you?? I have no idea, worth a shot if I were you.

 

[Indirocz28]

Good thinking, but he was the one that put the loader on it, and it acted this way prior to loader install I thought?

Yea i was thinking the leaky valve may be a good thing since he has to swap it anyway he may refund you?? I have no idea, worth a shot if I were you.

Correct was having issues with the 3pt prior to doing the loader, just happen to figure more out about the 3pt symptoms and issues as days go by.

 

[Indirocz28]

If it leaks, I'm sure he'll make it good.

How is the loaded valve plumbed ? Is the hp line just cut, then goes into the loader valve then out of the loader valve into the 3 point like most are plumbed ?

Wonder if it's possible to leak back through that loaded valve, and back to the sump.

It may be worth a try to test it. Disconnect the loader valve .You have tried other things. this wouldn't cost anything to try. Maybe a couple of plugs, or connectors

The system currently runs as such:
Hoye adapter from the HP side of the pump to a hose up to the inlet side of the loader valve, then out of the loader valve to the Hoye adapter banjo bolt onto the top of the 3pt control valve.
Loader valve is two spool open center, and the power beyond is plugged currently.

So I don’t really think that with this way it is possible to leak back through the loader valve to the sump since the only way out of the valve is to either the loader cylinders or to the pump.