John Deere 755 Newbie

   / John Deere 755 Newbie #1  

Moukie

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2018
Messages
30
Tractor
John Deere 755
Good morning,
Proud new owner of a 1989? JD755 that is in need of a whole lot of attention. I think I got a fair deal on the purchase that makes it worth the effort, but it sure needs a lot of work. Here is a list of things I already have identified that need work:
1) 4 wheel drive does not work. PO (18 month owner) states PO welded a broken shaft and it did not hold?. So, PO removed parts and used as a 2WD. I sure would love to fix this, but cannot spend a fortune doing it. I have a bag of bearings, 3 planetary gears, and a long shaft to start with. Any advice on where to get started would be a big help. Drawings, schematics, parts sources, etc.
2) Glow plugs show no indication of working. I have not yet put a volt meter on them individually, or even checked to see if they are getting power as a system.
3) Bucket tilt cylinders leak very badly. I will be removing loader, as leakage is very excessive.
4) Alternator does not appear to be working. Again, have not yet put volt meter on anything.
5) Hydrostatics creep, making it very difficult and unsafe to operate. I checked spring return underneath, and it looks to me like it needs more tension, but even placing toe under foot pedal and raising pedal does not prevent creeping. E-brake does work well.
6) Whew, this thing is filthy. I did first pressure washing, but see now that it needs another. I will be cleaning crud for a long time.
7) Bucket is in awful shape. Gives me a great reason to get out one or both welders...HeHe. :laughing:
8) Hour meter does not work. I thought i was buying a 1,200 hour tractor, but may really have a 12,000 hour tractor?
9) So many knobs. I am still trying to figure this one out. Way more knobs than my '52 8N had.
10) Hard to start. I sure hope this is not an ether-baby. Seems to run great and smoke-free when running, but does not start easy. I know i need to get glow plugs working quickly, as temps are dropping.
11) Leaks oil. May be oil pan gasket. Still too much muck to identify source.
12) Exhaust pipe is gone past the frame. Not sure if it goes straight down, or bends?

Truthfully, i love a project and cannot wait to get started. Don't take my post as a negative; just a simple list of what lies ahead. As soon as i figure out how to get the loader off, i will likely take about everything off/apart to get working properly.

Any advice on where to get parts and parts schematics for front would be very helpful. Thank you very much, in advance.

David in SC
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #2  
Good morning,
Proud new owner of a 1989? JD755 that is in need of a whole lot of attention. I think I got a fair deal on the purchase that makes it worth the effort, but it sure needs a lot of work. Here is a list of things I already have identified that need work:
1) 4 wheel drive does not work. PO (18 month owner) states PO welded a broken shaft and it did not hold?. So, PO removed parts and used as a 2WD. I sure would love to fix this, but cannot spend a fortune doing it. I have a bag of bearings, 3 planetary gears, and a long shaft to start with. Any advice on where to get started would be a big help. Drawings, schematics, parts sources, etc.
2) Glow plugs show no indication of working. I have not yet put a volt meter on them individually, or even checked to see if they are getting power as a system.
3) Bucket tilt cylinders leak very badly. I will be removing loader, as leakage is very excessive.
4) Alternator does not appear to be working. Again, have not yet put volt meter on anything.
5) Hydrostatics creep, making it very difficult and unsafe to operate. I checked spring return underneath, and it looks to me like it needs more tension, but even placing toe under foot pedal and raising pedal does not prevent creeping. E-brake does work well.
6) Whew, this thing is filthy. I did first pressure washing, but see now that it needs another. I will be cleaning crud for a long time.
7) Bucket is in awful shape. Gives me a great reason to get out one or both welders...HeHe. :laughing:
8) Hour meter does not work. I thought i was buying a 1,200 hour tractor, but may really have a 12,000 hour tractor?
9) So many knobs. I am still trying to figure this one out. Way more knobs than my '52 8N had.
10) Hard to start. I sure hope this is not an ether-baby. Seems to run great and smoke-free when running, but does not start easy. I know i need to get glow plugs working quickly, as temps are dropping.
11) Leaks oil. May be oil pan gasket. Still too much muck to identify source.
12) Exhaust pipe is gone past the frame. Not sure if it goes straight down, or bends?

Truthfully, i love a project and cannot wait to get started. Don't take my post as a negative; just a simple list of what lies ahead. As soon as i figure out how to get the loader off, i will likely take about everything off/apart to get working properly.

Any advice on where to get parts and parts schematics for front would be very helpful. Thank you very much, in advance.

David in SC
I too have an 89 jd755 4wd hydro with loader. I have gone in and rebuilt the front end. If you have any questions about any controls or knobs just let me know. I have had the tractor since 1999. As far as the hour meter it needs the cable the runs the RPM. The cable breaks some where in the sheathing. The cable runs from the front of the motor to the RPM/hour meter
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #5  
Couple of places for aftermarket 755/855/955 parts.

Hoyetractor deals in Yanmar parts

JD755: Yanmar Tractor Parts

Also have sister site Hoyeindustrial

Yanmar Industrial Engine Parts: Deere Equipment

TractorPartsAsap.com (Also called All States Ag Parts) carries 7/8/955 items. Just ordered a grille for 955. Reproduction for $299 plus $12.95 shipping, ad says primered but came painted. JD wants $728. Quality excellent. They sell it on ebay as well but its $349 on ebay free shipping. Remember to get the medallions from them as well 1/2 the price of JD. All States Ag is a tractor salvage as well.

Front Grille | John Deere 755 855 955 | | AM17864 | AM14995

Got my side engine panels from New Paris Tractor parts on Ebay, also a salvage yard. $160 plus $40 shipping, you can make an offer, so $100 each, JD wants $300 for each.

Another salvage place Eastern-Triangle for 7/8/955 parts. Got a hydraulic pump and odds and ends.

Eastern Triangle Enterprises LLC E-Store. Search

Also got complete 3 point hitch from Hoye, free shipping $239

3 POINT KIT - FREE SHIPPING!: Yanmar Tractor Parts
 
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   / John Deere 755 Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Oh my - what have I bought? First of all; thank you for the kind offerings of help. I have been doing a little research, and I am sure I will continue...
In the meantime, I decided to take my new toy out and use it for just a few minutes before I try to tackle some of the more obvious issues. well, after about 5 minutes of running the oil light came on and stayed on. Must be something I have done, as it was not continuously on before. It did flicker at low idle when I bought it. After checking and finding it to be 1+ quart low, and adding a quart, the light never returned. I will say the extent of me running this tractor is unloading it from my trailer to park under my shed. But, last night I decided to treat new toy to some new Rotella 15-40 and a new Purolater 12042 filter to replace the soot-black oil and NAPA Gold 1365 filter. I really could not stand the thought of running with unknown-age oil. Is it possible Rotella is too viscous? I use it in both of my Kubotas, and my Dodge diesel; thought it would be good for my Deere/Yanmar? Is it possible the Purolater 12042 filter is too restrictive; more restrictive than the NAPA gold that was on it? Advance counter-guy checked the cross-reference to arrive at the Purolater.

Just seems very odd to me that my 755 that did not have oil light on before oil change now has it on. Very frustrating, and could be a game changer in this venture if it means I am now looking at major engine money.

Thank you again for the help. Any suggestions on this one? I do not have a gauge to check actual oil pressure....at least not yet.

David in SC
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #7  
Google john deere 755 oil light.

More than a few mentioning flickering oil light, seems to be common.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #8  
I run rotella 15w-40 during the summer then switch to rotella 10w-30 in the winter. I run the carquest oil filter which is actually a Mann Hummel / WIX
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #9  
I bought an 855 this year that was misused. I have spent $2500-3000 on it so far....but I had the dealer do the work. Parts for these older machines can be hard to find and expensive. Like you, I got the tractor at a great price so I do not regret buying it....yet.

My dealer would not rebuild my FEL cylinders, he wanted me to buy new ones, but any good hydraulic shop can fix the leaks. Can’t imagine not having a FEL but then I only have one tractor so it needs to do everything.

BTW, my EB does not work either. I found the copy of the service manual I bought on EBay was useless on addressing that problem so it looks like another visit to the dealer.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #10  
Oh my - what have I bought? First of all; thank you for the kind offerings of help. I have been doing a little research, and I am sure I will continue...
In the meantime, I decided to take my new toy out and use it for just a few minutes before I try to tackle some of the more obvious issues. well, after about 5 minutes of running the oil light came on and stayed on. Must be something I have done, as it was not continuously on before. It did flicker at low idle when I bought it. After checking and finding it to be 1+ quart low, and adding a quart, the light never returned. I will say the extent of me running this tractor is unloading it from my trailer to park under my shed. But, last night I decided to treat new toy to some new Rotella 15-40 and a new Purolater 12042 filter to replace the soot-black oil and NAPA Gold 1365 filter. I really could not stand the thought of running with unknown-age oil. Is it possible Rotella is too viscous? I use it in both of my Kubotas, and my Dodge diesel; thought it would be good for my Deere/Yanmar? Is it possible the Purolater 12042 filter is too restrictive; more restrictive than the NAPA gold that was on it? Advance counter-guy checked the cross-reference to arrive at the Purolater.

Just seems very odd to me that my 755 that did not have oil light on before oil change now has it on. Very frustrating, and could be a game changer in this venture if it means I am now looking at major engine money.

Thank you again for the help. Any suggestions on this one? I do not have a gauge to check actual oil pressure....at least not yet.

David in SC

This is confusing. It reads like the oil light came on, you added a quart, and it went off. Then you say you changed the oil and you ask if it is too thick? So did the oil light problem start AFTER the oil change? Rotella 15W40 should not cause the oil light to come on. Could be anything from low oil pressure to a chafed wire in your case? BUT you will have to figure out for yourself which it is. We cannot solve any problems through speculation. You may need to connect a manual oil pressure gauge and see exactly what it's doing.

I have an 855 and the oil light never flickers or stays on. It comes on when I turn on the key and goes out when the engine starts.

My 855 requires moving the throttle to full when starting then I pull it back some before it revs all the way when it starts. I believe the cause is a sticking fuel cutoff solenoid. If I try to start at a low throttle setting it starts and hunts. I can manually pull the solenoid rod back and it will run smooth. Not sure why it makes a difference staring with the throttle on full but it does.

Sounds like you have a lot of other troubleshooting to do. Best get yourself a set of factory manuals. The tech manual should be TM1360. You may also need a CTM3 engine manual.

Good luck with your new project.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks JD855guy. The oil light was on at very low throttle when i bought it. It was a quart low, and sooty, so i added a new quart and light never came back. The day after, i changed oil and filter and have run it 5-10 minutes. The oil light then came on and stayed on, even at WOT. I will have to fab up some type of manual gauge today to see just what is going on.

Engine runs and sounds great, so i really was not expecting this too.

Thank you again,
David in SC
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #12  
The easy thing to test is a new oil pressure switch. But worn bearings in the engine will give low pressure when the engine is warm.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #13  
My 855 requires moving the throttle to full when starting then I pull it back some before it revs all the way when it starts. I believe the cause is a sticking fuel cutoff solenoid. If I try to start at a low throttle setting it starts and hunts. I can manually pull the solenoid rod back and it will run smooth. Not sure why it makes a difference staring with the throttle on full but it does.

Had exact same problem with my 455, eventually the fuel shutoff solenoid stopped working, replaced it and all was good.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #14  
BTW, my EB does not work either. I found the copy of the service manual I bought on EBay was useless on addressing that problem so it looks like another visit to the dealer.

I also bought a service manual from Selectmanuals.com, then happened across genuine one for free online, probably where selectmanuals got their copy. Grrrr.

http://golftechs.us/demo/index.php/links?task=weblink.go&id=266

Adjust e-brake, section 260-10 in manual.

955.E.Brake.2.JPG955.E.Brake.1.JPG

Also CTM3 engine manual also online from Weekend freedom machines

http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/manuals/CTM3.pdf
 
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   / John Deere 755 Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Well i feel pretty good about the oil pressure sending unit working properly. I got it up to temp this evening and every time i dropped to base idle, the light came on. As i increased throttle, the light went away, but it took a pretty good RPM before it stayed off. Why in the world did this not happen when i looked at it? I am a little frustrated, as this likely means going in engine.
I tried to remove sending unit to put in a mechanical gauge, but i don't have correct socket. 1" does not work, nor does 1 1/16. Maybe a 26mm will get it; i will borrow one from work tomorrow.

Manual states 53 +/- 10 is operating psi. Any idea what it has to drop to before light comes on, and how bad this really is?
Any thoughts on just doing rod and main bearings without complete overhaul? I am exploring all options at this point, including bailing out and cutting my losses.

Thank you in advance.
David in SC
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #16  
Well i feel pretty good about the oil pressure sending unit working properly. I got it up to temp this evening and every time i dropped to base idle, the light came on. As i increased throttle, the light went away, but it took a pretty good RPM before it stayed off. Why in the world did this not happen when i looked at it? I am a little frustrated, as this likely means going in engine.
I tried to remove sending unit to put in a mechanical gauge, but i don't have correct socket. 1" does not work, nor does 1 1/16. Maybe a 26mm will get it; i will borrow one from work tomorrow.

Manual states 53 +/- 10 is operating psi. Any idea what it has to drop to before light comes on, and how bad this really is?
Any thoughts on just doing rod and main bearings without complete overhaul? I am exploring all options at this point, including bailing out and cutting my losses.

Thank you in advance.
David in SC

Up until now you are just speculating on your oil light problem. It might just be a faulty sender or something simple. It's not costly to buy a pressure gauge at a hardware store and screw it in where the oil pressure light switch is. Then you know what your engine is doing.

Usually oil pressure fittings are 1/8" pipe thread which is the same as grease gun hose. If the engine sender is in too tight a spot for just the gauge, get a grease gun hose, a pipe union the right size and a gauge. Install it on your engine and observe.

Edited to add that if you use a "T" fitting you can also attach your present sender at the same time and you can see at what pressure the light comes on.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #17  
Up until now you are just speculating on your oil light problem. It might just be a faulty sender or something simple. It's not costly to buy a pressure gauge at a hardware store and screw it in where the oil pressure light switch is. Then you know what your engine is doing.

Usually oil pressure fittings are 1/8" pipe thread which is the same as grease gun hose. If the engine sender is in too tight a spot for just the gauge, get a grease gun hose, a pipe union the right size and a gauge. Install it on your engine and observe.

Edited to add that if you use a "T" fitting you can also attach your present sender at the same time and you can see at what pressure the light comes on.
If you go forward, I get hydraulic cylinders on line at Surplus Center. You can't have a small cylinder rebuilt for what they charge.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #18  
Oil light should not come on unless pressure is below 10 psi. Hopefully a bad sensor is all you have wrong. Not sure what model loader you have, but they should be easy to reseal unless the guide is rusted tight in the barrel. The creeping problem should be an easy fix. DOes it always creep the same direction? If so, it is an easy adjustment in the pivot linkage. You may see a grease fitting under the right side frame that goes into a bellcrank in the linkage. In the center of that bell crank is an eccentric cam to adjust for creep. Loosen the 13 mm bolt in pivot point and then turn the eccentric cam to adjust. Easiest to jack up tractor and place on jack stands. Start engine and adjust cam while engine is running until wheels stop turning. WHile you are at it, grease all fittings in linkage to be sure everything works free. If pedals are slow to return while running, the linkage is most likely sticking. If it creeps forward after moving forward and creeps backwrd after moving in reverse, then most likely the clamp bolt on lever for swash plate is loose. Remove panel between your legs for access to clamp bolt. You will need either a 12 or 13 mm socket, short extension and ratchet to tighten it up.
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Does anyone have a link to a video or instructions on how to remove the model 70 loader? Before I can really do much, I need to remove the loader. This will stop one major fluid leak, and also enable me to do enough work to test some more functions. With loader, no 4wd, turf tires, and nothing on back, this things kind of spins in place.

Thanks for the help,
David in SC
 
   / John Deere 755 Newbie #20  
Does anyone have a link to a video or instructions on how to remove the model 70 loader? Before I can really do much, I need to remove the loader. This will stop one major fluid leak, and also enable me to do enough work to test some more functions. With loader, no 4wd, turf tires, and nothing on back, this things kind of spins in place.

Thanks for the help,
David in SC
I can make a video in the morning and post it
 

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